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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+url: "https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/WZnJo5ol_o.jpg"
+body: """
This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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App\Entity\Entry {#2489
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
"""
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+url: "https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/WZnJo5ol_o.jpg"
+body: """
This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2489
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
"""
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This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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\n
\n
TranscriptLow-quality photo of a cleanly decapped chip with no resin around it, lying in a recessed rectangle in black plastic or ceramic. It is protected with some clear coat, and there are gold bond wires connecting it with 14 pins embedded in the package material. Two of them on opposing sides are connected and form a bed that the die.A structured square takes up most of the left half of the die and appears significantly darker. The rest is usual chip design with minor rectangular structures. The second photo uses crappy dusty lenses instead of digital zoom. It is slightly less cropped so it is revealed that the entire thing is within a deeper recess, possibly with a tab that keeps a cover on?\n
\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
The pics are purposefully cropped to make the guessing a little harder. The chip continues to work now that I’ve undone this.\n
\n
You may ask follow-up questions. I will post the full story and pics once you guess correctly.\n
\n
Please use the spoiler syntax for your guesses so that people can enjoy guessing with follow-up hints without spoilers! You *really* don’t like doing this, apparently. I thought it would make it more fun for people to take a guess even after someone guesses correctly.\n
\n
I will do the same with any hints and answers I post in the comments so that everyone can choose the difficulty.
"""
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\n
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\n
\n
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\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
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\n
You may ask follow-up questions. I will post the full story and pics once you guess correctly.\n
\n
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\n
I will do the same with any hints and answers I post in the comments so that everyone can choose the difficulty.
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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+title: "in your household, there is a chip you can easily decap. Can you guess what it is?"
+url: "https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/5ce7cca5-f22b-47b3-b2ac-d0a28e53dbec.jpeg"
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\n
\n
TranscriptLow-quality photo of a cleanly decapped chip with no resin around it, lying in a recessed rectangle in black plastic or ceramic. It is protected with some clear coat, and there are gold bond wires connecting it with 14 pins embedded in the package material. Two of them on opposing sides are connected and form a bed that the die.A structured square takes up most of the left half of the die and appears significantly darker. The rest is usual chip design with minor rectangular structures. The second photo uses crappy dusty lenses instead of digital zoom. It is slightly less cropped so it is revealed that the entire thing is within a deeper recess, possibly with a tab that keeps a cover on?\n
\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
The pics are purposefully cropped to make the guessing a little harder. The chip continues to work now that I’ve undone this.\n
\n
You may ask follow-up questions. I will post the full story and pics once you guess correctly.\n
\n
Please use the spoiler syntax for your guesses so that people can enjoy guessing with follow-up hints without spoilers! You *really* don’t like doing this, apparently. I thought it would make it more fun for people to take a guess even after someone guesses correctly.\n
\n
I will do the same with any hints and answers I post in the comments so that everyone can choose the difficulty.
"""
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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+title: "Bought my first "bench" power supply 😁"
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+body: """
I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
- 65W USB PD output (handy for the Pinecil I recently ordered to replace my old iron 😁)\n
- 200x200 IPS display\n
- AC input uses GaN parts\n
\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
"""
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| 11 |
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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+title: "Bought my first "bench" power supply 😁"
+url: "https://images2.imgbox.com/f3/83/VUCfUxRP_o.jpg"
+body: """
I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
- 65W USB PD output (handy for the Pinecil I recently ordered to replace my old iron 😁)\n
- 200x200 IPS display\n
- AC input uses GaN parts\n
\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
"""
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I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
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- 200x200 IPS display\n
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\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
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| 13 |
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When buying a replacement for a USB-C connector, are there specific details I should look for such as pin counts, pin arrangements and mounting post dimensions? Or can I just buy any connector that looks similar?\n
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This is the connector for an XP-PEN Deco mini7 graphics tablet. It loses connection when moving the cable, and the inner part is slightly loose, even though I’ve barely used the thing
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When buying a replacement for a USB-C connector, are there specific details I should look for such as pin counts, pin arrangements and mounting post dimensions? Or can I just buy any connector that looks similar?\n
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Would anyone like to chime in. I recently made an MOT spot welder for 18650 nickel strips. I can reliably weld 0.2mm nickel. Although I do need a slit if I’m doing nickel <–> nickel (stacking for more amps).\n
\n
My main problem here is that I had to use 2 parallel transformers since I can’t source a single more powerful one e.g. 1500w\n
\n
The current ones are around 700 and 900 watts. Together, they manage around 20 amps from the wall 220v, that’s about north of 4kW, so I’m guessing 2000 amps at 2 volts in theory.\n
\n
In practice, I’m probably closer to 1000 amps due to heat and smaller electrode tips near the end for the spots.\n
\n
Any ideas if raising my voltage to 4 volts would help with welds? I might also switch out my SSR since it seems to be sagging on that end. I measure more amps on the free directly connected cable from time to time, versus the one coming from the SSR.\n
\n
Edit: The cables on the secondary windings are 16mm2 or around 6AWG. I’m confident they can handle the load since I can’t really feel any heat in them. They barely heat up after 5 seconds of a constant short. I’m doing mostly 50-60ms pulses for the welds.
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Would anyone like to chime in. I recently made an MOT spot welder for 18650 nickel strips. I can reliably weld 0.2mm nickel. Although I do need a slit if I’m doing nickel <–> nickel (stacking for more amps).\n
\n
My main problem here is that I had to use 2 parallel transformers since I can’t source a single more powerful one e.g. 1500w\n
\n
The current ones are around 700 and 900 watts. Together, they manage around 20 amps from the wall 220v, that’s about north of 4kW, so I’m guessing 2000 amps at 2 volts in theory.\n
\n
In practice, I’m probably closer to 1000 amps due to heat and smaller electrode tips near the end for the spots.\n
\n
Any ideas if raising my voltage to 4 volts would help with welds? I might also switch out my SSR since it seems to be sagging on that end. I measure more amps on the free directly connected cable from time to time, versus the one coming from the SSR.\n
\n
Edit: The cables on the secondary windings are 16mm2 or around 6AWG. I’m confident they can handle the load since I can’t really feel any heat in them. They barely heat up after 5 seconds of a constant short. I’m doing mostly 50-60ms pulses for the welds.
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Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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Would anyone like to chime in. I recently made an MOT spot welder for 18650 nickel strips. I can reliably weld 0.2mm nickel. Although I do need a slit if I’m doing nickel <–> nickel (stacking for more amps).\n
\n
My main problem here is that I had to use 2 parallel transformers since I can’t source a single more powerful one e.g. 1500w\n
\n
The current ones are around 700 and 900 watts. Together, they manage around 20 amps from the wall 220v, that’s about north of 4kW, so I’m guessing 2000 amps at 2 volts in theory.\n
\n
In practice, I’m probably closer to 1000 amps due to heat and smaller electrode tips near the end for the spots.\n
\n
Any ideas if raising my voltage to 4 volts would help with welds? I might also switch out my SSR since it seems to be sagging on that end. I measure more amps on the free directly connected cable from time to time, versus the one coming from the SSR.\n
\n
Edit: The cables on the secondary windings are 16mm2 or around 6AWG. I’m confident they can handle the load since I can’t really feel any heat in them. They barely heat up after 5 seconds of a constant short. I’m doing mostly 50-60ms pulses for the welds.
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Show voter details
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| 21 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1579
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Not my post/video. Link to mastodon.social post which then links to YouTube video.\n
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Show voter details
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| 23 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1579
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Rules\n
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3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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Not my post/video. Link to mastodon.social post which then links to YouTube video.\n
\n
Poster bought an old firewall hardware:\n
\n
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2. analyzed the chips,\n
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Show voter details
|
| 24 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1579
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
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Not my post/video. Link to mastodon.social post which then links to YouTube video.\n
\n
Poster bought an old firewall hardware:\n
\n
1. saw unpopulated footprints on the circuit board,\n
2. analyzed the chips,\n
3. found the serial comm to access BIOS (blocked by password),\n
4. dumped the SPI flash memory,\n
5. obtained supervisor password,\n
6. accessed the BIOS from serial comm,\n
7. enabled the video display in BIOS,\n
8. soldered the HDMI port,\n
9. soldered the SATA power and data ports and the associated components,\n
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 25 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 26 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1528
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238)\n
\n
> > Are you an engineer working on designing complex modern chips or System On Chips (SOCs) at the Register Transfer Level (RTL)? Have you ever been in one of the following frustrating situations?\n
> \n
> > •Your RTL designs suffered a major (and expensive) bug escape due to insufficient coverage of corner cases during simulation testing.\n
> \n
> > • You created a new RTL module and want to see its real flows in simulation, but realize this will take another few weeks of testbench development work.\n
> \n
> > • You tweaked a piece of RTL to aid synthesis or timing and need to spend weeks simulating to make sure you did not actually change its functionality.\n
> \n
> > • You are in the late stages of validating a design, and the continuing stream of new bugs makes it clear that your randomized simulations are just not providing proper coverage.\n
> \n
> > • You modified the control register specification for your design and need to spend lots of time simulating to make sure your changes to the RTL correctly implement these registers.\n
> \n
> > If so, congratulations: you have picked up the right book! Each of these situations can be addressed using formal verification (FV) to significantly increase both your overall productivity and your confidence in your results. You will achieve this by using formal mathematical tools to create orders-of-magnitude increases in efficiency and productivity, as well as introducing mathematical near-certainty into areas previously dependent on informal testing.\n
> \n
> Design verification has always been essential to chip design. However as chip complexity increased over years, state-space and required verification effort exponentially exploded. With emerging powerful and commercially accessible tools, formal verification has become more viable and even unavoidable for reliable sign-off and catching bugs early in the process. I found this book a very helpful introduction to formal verification. It explains how formal can be utilized, different methods like formal property verification (FPV) and sequential equivalence checks (SEC) and where they are useful, limitations, complexity problems and how to mitigate the issues that come with formal. It explains how formal and functional can complement each other for combined sigh-off. It explains theoretical concepts with clear examples and diagrams. It explains formal algorithms as well for anyone interested, but focus is more about how to utilize formal in your projects. And if you are a total beginner, do not worry, there is section which explains essentials of Systemverilog Assertions (SVA), which you can completely skip if you know about it already.
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238)\n
\n
> > Are you an engineer working on designing complex modern chips or System On Chips (SOCs) at the Register Transfer Level (RTL)? Have you ever been in one of the following frustrating situations?\n
> \n
> > •Your RTL designs suffered a major (and expensive) bug escape due to insufficient coverage of corner cases during simulation testing.\n
> \n
> > • You created a new RTL module and want to see its real flows in simulation, but realize this will take another few weeks of testbench development work.\n
> \n
> > • You tweaked a piece of RTL to aid synthesis or timing and need to spend weeks simulating to make sure you did not actually change its functionality.\n
> \n
> > • You are in the late stages of validating a design, and the continuing stream of new bugs makes it clear that your randomized simulations are just not providing proper coverage.\n
> \n
> > • You modified the control register specification for your design and need to spend lots of time simulating to make sure your changes to the RTL correctly implement these registers.\n
> \n
> > If so, congratulations: you have picked up the right book! Each of these situations can be addressed using formal verification (FV) to significantly increase both your overall productivity and your confidence in your results. You will achieve this by using formal mathematical tools to create orders-of-magnitude increases in efficiency and productivity, as well as introducing mathematical near-certainty into areas previously dependent on informal testing.\n
> \n
> Design verification has always been essential to chip design. However as chip complexity increased over years, state-space and required verification effort exponentially exploded. With emerging powerful and commercially accessible tools, formal verification has become more viable and even unavoidable for reliable sign-off and catching bugs early in the process. I found this book a very helpful introduction to formal verification. It explains how formal can be utilized, different methods like formal property verification (FPV) and sequential equivalence checks (SEC) and where they are useful, limitations, complexity problems and how to mitigate the issues that come with formal. It explains how formal and functional can complement each other for combined sigh-off. It explains theoretical concepts with clear examples and diagrams. It explains formal algorithms as well for anyone interested, but focus is more about how to utilize formal in your projects. And if you are a total beginner, do not worry, there is section which explains essentials of Systemverilog Assertions (SVA), which you can completely skip if you know about it already.
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/2357238)\n
\n
> > Are you an engineer working on designing complex modern chips or System On Chips (SOCs) at the Register Transfer Level (RTL)? Have you ever been in one of the following frustrating situations?\n
> \n
> > •Your RTL designs suffered a major (and expensive) bug escape due to insufficient coverage of corner cases during simulation testing.\n
> \n
> > • You created a new RTL module and want to see its real flows in simulation, but realize this will take another few weeks of testbench development work.\n
> \n
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> \n
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> \n
> > • You modified the control register specification for your design and need to spend lots of time simulating to make sure your changes to the RTL correctly implement these registers.\n
> \n
> > If so, congratulations: you have picked up the right book! Each of these situations can be addressed using formal verification (FV) to significantly increase both your overall productivity and your confidence in your results. You will achieve this by using formal mathematical tools to create orders-of-magnitude increases in efficiency and productivity, as well as introducing mathematical near-certainty into areas previously dependent on informal testing.\n
> \n
> Design verification has always been essential to chip design. However as chip complexity increased over years, state-space and required verification effort exponentially exploded. With emerging powerful and commercially accessible tools, formal verification has become more viable and even unavoidable for reliable sign-off and catching bugs early in the process. I found this book a very helpful introduction to formal verification. It explains how formal can be utilized, different methods like formal property verification (FPV) and sequential equivalence checks (SEC) and where they are useful, limitations, complexity problems and how to mitigate the issues that come with formal. It explains how formal and functional can complement each other for combined sigh-off. It explains theoretical concepts with clear examples and diagrams. It explains formal algorithms as well for anyone interested, but focus is more about how to utilize formal in your projects. And if you are a total beginner, do not worry, there is section which explains essentials of Systemverilog Assertions (SVA), which you can completely skip if you know about it already.
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| 33 |
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Show voter details
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High school is finally over! That being said, having chosen a technical school, I, like others, was asked to create a project to be shown during the oral interview with the exam commission. This post is meant to be sort of a postmortem for it. Now, my goal was to create some sort of PLC, capable of controlling high power loads. The plan was to make a switch mode power supply in order to power a microcontroller. With it, I would read and execute commands from a line terminal, such as turning on and off the relays that would control the HV loads. For the relays, I chose to build some solid state ones using TRIACs. My main goal was also to demonstrate how it was possible to use custom PCBs to make it all happen. Yes, I was the first one at school to “discover” the existence of JLCPCB and PCBWay (I’ve used the latter for the final product). Gone were the days of using our CNC milling machine (which, in its current state, can’t make tracks smaller than 1.5mm!) or chemicals. During this time, I also wanted to help all others with their projects (suggesting them to also make custom PCBs). Issues didn’t take long to appear while designing the circuits. Initially, I was using an RX140 board from Renesas as the main brain of the thing. Now, ignoring the fact I absolutely hated the IDE Renesas gave me (it’s based on eclipse, and it was tedious to use), that board died while I was casually using the debugger. I mean, that board had ESD warnings all over, but holy f**k, I even placed it on an antistatic surface. Frustrated with the slow process known as programming for a Renesas product, I have instead chosen to use an STM32 based board, and oh boy it was a good choice to make. Of course, I had to rewrite a lot of code, but I think it was all worth with. The solid state relay board didn’t give me many issues, and I was happy about it. And then… I had to make the SMPS. God. I was lucky enough to use a commercial transformer from wurth Elektronik and to find out that the initial prototype worked well. However, when the first PCBs arrived, we discovered that all prototypes kept blowing pretty violently. Eventually, after some testing, we found that the feedback loop was unstable. It used a TL431 and the only thing I can say is that, to make the board small, I made some… questionable choices with its layout. We eventually swapped it with a zener diode and everything worked well. The boards were designed using Altium designer and KiCad, and were uploaded on PCBWay for manufacturing. You can see the final flyback board on the image above. It uses an NCP1012AP10 controller (I know it’s obsolete, but at this point I’m just relieved everything works), and I’ve tried to follow the recommended layout. The final boards arrived two weeks before the exams. Everything then went according to plan.\n
\n
I’d like to thank everyone from r/electronics, r/AskElectronics and r/PCB who helped me during this journey.\n
\n
During the development, I’ve gathered all faulty components and put them in a bag. Once it was all over, I happily started to widlarize them. It was glorious.\n
\n
All simulations were made using OrCAD and PSpice, and were pretty accurate too.\n
\n
I’d like to also thank FedEx for partially destroying my PCB boxes 😢\n
\n
EDIT: I think I’ve spent almost $300 for all of this… Imagine all the beer I could have bought instead…
"""
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High school is finally over! That being said, having chosen a technical school, I, like others, was asked to create a project to be shown during the oral interview with the exam commission. This post is meant to be sort of a postmortem for it. Now, my goal was to create some sort of PLC, capable of controlling high power loads. The plan was to make a switch mode power supply in order to power a microcontroller. With it, I would read and execute commands from a line terminal, such as turning on and off the relays that would control the HV loads. For the relays, I chose to build some solid state ones using TRIACs. My main goal was also to demonstrate how it was possible to use custom PCBs to make it all happen. Yes, I was the first one at school to “discover” the existence of JLCPCB and PCBWay (I’ve used the latter for the final product). Gone were the days of using our CNC milling machine (which, in its current state, can’t make tracks smaller than 1.5mm!) or chemicals. During this time, I also wanted to help all others with their projects (suggesting them to also make custom PCBs). Issues didn’t take long to appear while designing the circuits. Initially, I was using an RX140 board from Renesas as the main brain of the thing. Now, ignoring the fact I absolutely hated the IDE Renesas gave me (it’s based on eclipse, and it was tedious to use), that board died while I was casually using the debugger. I mean, that board had ESD warnings all over, but holy f**k, I even placed it on an antistatic surface. Frustrated with the slow process known as programming for a Renesas product, I have instead chosen to use an STM32 based board, and oh boy it was a good choice to make. Of course, I had to rewrite a lot of code, but I think it was all worth with. The solid state relay board didn’t give me many issues, and I was happy about it. And then… I had to make the SMPS. God. I was lucky enough to use a commercial transformer from wurth Elektronik and to find out that the initial prototype worked well. However, when the first PCBs arrived, we discovered that all prototypes kept blowing pretty violently. Eventually, after some testing, we found that the feedback loop was unstable. It used a TL431 and the only thing I can say is that, to make the board small, I made some… questionable choices with its layout. We eventually swapped it with a zener diode and everything worked well. The boards were designed using Altium designer and KiCad, and were uploaded on PCBWay for manufacturing. You can see the final flyback board on the image above. It uses an NCP1012AP10 controller (I know it’s obsolete, but at this point I’m just relieved everything works), and I’ve tried to follow the recommended layout. The final boards arrived two weeks before the exams. Everything then went according to plan.\n
\n
I’d like to thank everyone from r/electronics, r/AskElectronics and r/PCB who helped me during this journey.\n
\n
During the development, I’ve gathered all faulty components and put them in a bag. Once it was all over, I happily started to widlarize them. It was glorious.\n
\n
All simulations were made using OrCAD and PSpice, and were pretty accurate too.\n
\n
I’d like to also thank FedEx for partially destroying my PCB boxes 😢\n
\n
EDIT: I think I’ve spent almost $300 for all of this… Imagine all the beer I could have bought instead…
"""
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DENIED
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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High school is finally over! That being said, having chosen a technical school, I, like others, was asked to create a project to be shown during the oral interview with the exam commission. This post is meant to be sort of a postmortem for it. Now, my goal was to create some sort of PLC, capable of controlling high power loads. The plan was to make a switch mode power supply in order to power a microcontroller. With it, I would read and execute commands from a line terminal, such as turning on and off the relays that would control the HV loads. For the relays, I chose to build some solid state ones using TRIACs. My main goal was also to demonstrate how it was possible to use custom PCBs to make it all happen. Yes, I was the first one at school to “discover” the existence of JLCPCB and PCBWay (I’ve used the latter for the final product). Gone were the days of using our CNC milling machine (which, in its current state, can’t make tracks smaller than 1.5mm!) or chemicals. During this time, I also wanted to help all others with their projects (suggesting them to also make custom PCBs). Issues didn’t take long to appear while designing the circuits. Initially, I was using an RX140 board from Renesas as the main brain of the thing. Now, ignoring the fact I absolutely hated the IDE Renesas gave me (it’s based on eclipse, and it was tedious to use), that board died while I was casually using the debugger. I mean, that board had ESD warnings all over, but holy f**k, I even placed it on an antistatic surface. Frustrated with the slow process known as programming for a Renesas product, I have instead chosen to use an STM32 based board, and oh boy it was a good choice to make. Of course, I had to rewrite a lot of code, but I think it was all worth with. The solid state relay board didn’t give me many issues, and I was happy about it. And then… I had to make the SMPS. God. I was lucky enough to use a commercial transformer from wurth Elektronik and to find out that the initial prototype worked well. However, when the first PCBs arrived, we discovered that all prototypes kept blowing pretty violently. Eventually, after some testing, we found that the feedback loop was unstable. It used a TL431 and the only thing I can say is that, to make the board small, I made some… questionable choices with its layout. We eventually swapped it with a zener diode and everything worked well. The boards were designed using Altium designer and KiCad, and were uploaded on PCBWay for manufacturing. You can see the final flyback board on the image above. It uses an NCP1012AP10 controller (I know it’s obsolete, but at this point I’m just relieved everything works), and I’ve tried to follow the recommended layout. The final boards arrived two weeks before the exams. Everything then went according to plan.\n
\n
I’d like to thank everyone from r/electronics, r/AskElectronics and r/PCB who helped me during this journey.\n
\n
During the development, I’ve gathered all faulty components and put them in a bag. Once it was all over, I happily started to widlarize them. It was glorious.\n
\n
All simulations were made using OrCAD and PSpice, and were pretty accurate too.\n
\n
I’d like to also thank FedEx for partially destroying my PCB boxes 😢\n
\n
EDIT: I think I’ve spent almost $300 for all of this… Imagine all the beer I could have bought instead…
"""
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| 37 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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| 38 |
DENIED
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moderate
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| 39 |
DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 40 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1726
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 41 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 42 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1717
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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I’m currently working on a more complex project that uses double sided assembly (and a weird USB-C connector). To practice these things a little, I ordered some low cost boards to get used to that connector and explore double sided reflow (which seems easier than I expected).\n
\n
For those who are interested, this is a reference design from framework computer for their expansion card system. It can be programmed with circuitpython or Arduino and utilises a SAMD21 microcontroller.
"""
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| 43 |
DENIED
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edit
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Show voter details
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| 44 |
DENIED
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moderate
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For those who are interested, this is a reference design from framework computer for their expansion card system. It can be programmed with circuitpython or Arduino and utilises a SAMD21 microcontroller.
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Show voter details
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| 45 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 46 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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Show voter details
|
| 47 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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\n
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I picked this little scope up from the Seapac swap meet a week and a half ago for $3. It turns out that all it needed was some contact cleaner to get it working again.\n
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Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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I picked this little scope up from the Seapac swap meet a week and a half ago for $3. It turns out that all it needed was some contact cleaner to get it working again.\n
\n
This is a portable scope that can run from 12V DC as well as an internal battery. I don't have the battery for it, but I could probably put some 18650's in there if I disable the built in charger.
"""
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| 49 |
DENIED
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edit
|
App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "electronics"
+description: """
**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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Show voter details
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