| 1 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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| 2 |
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
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date: 2023-07-04 10:42:50.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 3 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2096 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
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date: 2023-07-04 10:42:50.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2096 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
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date: 2023-07-04 10:42:50.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2360
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8216
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 7 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2360
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2162 …}
+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8216
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2360
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+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 9 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
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+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
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+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
| 11 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
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+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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"@Saigonauticon@voltage.vn"
]
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-id: 8216
-bodyTs: "'1':51 'blacken':36 'bleeder':11,59 'board':37 'cap':15 'dissip':33 'even':56 'fail':18,40 'fails-short':39 'failur':45 'gω':52 'heat':32 'henc':34 'high':55 'increas':30 'intern':23 'kind':21 'mayb':7,61 'misread':64 'mode':46 'pretti':54 're':63 'reduc':26 'resist':28 'resistor':12,49 'short':24,41 'someth':65 'thing':2 'think':5 'unusu':44"
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8216
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926}
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-titleTs: "'burnt':5 'find':2 'help':1 'resistor':6 'valu':3"
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+upVotes: 0
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688460170 {#2036
date: 2023-07-04 10:42:50.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1410 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2364 …}
+body: "Yeah, I think you’re right."
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date: 2023-07-05 20:11:12.0 +02:00
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"@WaltzingKea@lemmy.nz"
"@velourium_camper@lemmy.world"
"@Saigonauticon@voltage.vn"
"@pneumapunk@lemmy.sdf.org"
"@rstein@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1874 …}
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date: 2023-07-05 20:11:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8466
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 12 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1926
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2359
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2096 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2163 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2162 …}
+slug: "Help-finding-value-of-burnt-resistor"
+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
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+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 20
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date: 2023-07-10 05:19:41.0 +02:00
}
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2360
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2361 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2364 …}
+body: "Only thing I can think of, maybe it’s a bleeder resistor for that cap, and it failed by some kind of internal short which reduced its resistance (and increased its heat dissipation hence the blackened board)? But fails-short is an unusual failure mode for a resistor and 1 GΩ is pretty high even for a bleeder, so maybe we’re misreading something."
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"@velourium_camper@lemmy.world"
"@Saigonauticon@voltage.vn"
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date: 2023-07-05 08:07:16.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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"@pneumapunk@lemmy.sdf.org"
"@rstein@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688580672 {#1708
date: 2023-07-05 20:11:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8466
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 13 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 14 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1730
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2085 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
+title: "Connecting several tracks to the same pad"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-04 12:43:43.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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"@martagdm@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688429858 {#2128
date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 15 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1730
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2085 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
+title: "Connecting several tracks to the same pad"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 6
+favouriteCount: 9
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date: 2023-07-04 12:43:43.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2291 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2297 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2315 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2321 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2310 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1730 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
}
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"@martagdm@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 16 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1730
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2085 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
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+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
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}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
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…2
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Show voter details
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| 17 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 18 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
+title: "Connecting several tracks to the same pad"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736}
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-id: 751
-titleTs: "'connect':1 'pad':7 'sever':2 'track':3"
-bodyTs: "'4':18,28 'c34':25 'capacitor':24,41 'connect':16,50,55 'correct':51 'current':45 'design':5 'differ':59 'doubt':12 'everyon':2 'hello':1 'm':4 'pad':38 'pcb':7 'place':46 'resistor':19 'termin':34 'top':22 'trace':29 'way':60"
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date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
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…2
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
|
| 19 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
+title: "Connecting several tracks to the same pad"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736}
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-id: 751
-titleTs: "'connect':1 'pad':7 'sever':2 'track':3"
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date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
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}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7553
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 20 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1730
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+slug: "Connecting-several-tracks-to-the-same-pad"
+title: "Connecting several tracks to the same pad"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f3a89ad5-80b9-4bc4-a643-06962528874f.png"
+body: "Hello everyone! I’m designing a PCB and I have some doubts about how to connect the 4 resistors at the top to capacitor C34. They are 4 traces, and all of them terminate at the same pad of the capacitor. As I have currently placed them, are they connected correctly? Or should I connect them in a different way?"
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2321 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2310 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1736}
]
-id: 751
-titleTs: "'connect':1 'pad':7 'sever':2 'track':3"
-bodyTs: "'4':18,28 'c34':25 'capacitor':24,41 'connect':16,50,55 'correct':51 'current':45 'design':5 'differ':59 'doubt':12 'everyon':2 'hello':1 'm':4 'pad':38 'pcb':7 'place':46 'resistor':19 'termin':34 'top':22 'trace':29 'way':60"
+cross: false
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date: 2023-07-04 02:17:38.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
It mostly doesn’t matter.\n
\n
If it’s a high-current, high-frequency, or low-noise circuit then maybe the inductance or resistance of those traces would matter, but they’re very short so probably not.\n
\n
If you’re mass-producing it, then sometimes the reflow or wave solder process works better if the traces leave the pads in particular ways. You’d talk to your manufacturer about this.\n
\n
If this is a hobby project, you’re overthinking it; arrange them in a way that pleases you!
"""
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]
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date: 2023-07-04 02:40:41.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 21 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 22 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1739
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2329 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2341 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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date: 2023-07-16 06:30:05.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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date: 2023-07-16 06:30:08.0 +02:00
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]
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1381
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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Show voter details
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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date: 2023-07-16 06:30:05.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+body: """
That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1381
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 24 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+parent: null
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+body: """
That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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…2
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
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First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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DENIED
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First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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Show voter details
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| 28 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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date: 2023-07-03 23:27:36.0 +02:00
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That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1381
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+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
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First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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date: 2023-07-16 06:30:05.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1381
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+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1717
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+root: null
+body: """
That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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+body: "That makes sense, it forms a simple snubber network. A capacitor in series with a low-value resistor might work even better. Did you try a freewheeling diode directly across the valve leads?"
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Show voter details
|
| 32 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1381
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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+slug: "Shift-register-Relays-inconsistent-results-when-load-is-attached-to"
+title: "Shift register > Relays - inconsistent results when load is attached to relay"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/11badfb8-6d12-4278-a6e5-e561ba8dc319.jpeg"
+body: """
First of all, I apologize for the lack of a “formal” schematic… I tried to draw one out, but got buried in the nuances of it :)\n
\n
Second, I’ve done enough research to have [some idea](https://hstech.ro/HC595/) of what my problem is: namely, I need a [decoupling capacitor](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/6ubdyt/need_some_quick_helpclarification_on_power_supply/) in the mix. Problem is, I’m new enough to this that I’m not 100% sure where to put it, nor what capacitance I should use.\n
\n
So the setup: -I’m using a Wemos(like) D1 Mini to drive 8 relays via an HC595 shift register -The D1 Mini microcontroller, HC595, and relay module are all powered by the same 5V DC and ground -The microcontroller addresses the shift register via 3.3VDC data pins -The relays power a water valve via a separate 24VDC power supply and transformer - plugged into the same AC outlet\n
\n
And the problem: everything works just fine UNTIL I actually add the 24VDC power load. Once that’s done, the results are very erratic… usually turning on the correct valve correctly, but rarely turning it off in the same way. As I mentioned, I intuitively suspect noise in the data caused by the sudden power to the valve… but it doesn’t make too much sense since everything is on different power supplies.\n
\n
Any guesses as to where I need to put some capacitor(s)? Thanks!!
"""
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+body: """
That’s interesting, so you can flip the relays all you like without trouble as long as the 24DC supply isn’t connected? If that’s true then your problem presumably isn’t the typical inductive kick from the relay coil. It looks like your relay board has stuff on it which is presumably drivers and snubbers so let’s assume all of that is adequate to the job.\n
\n
So, if it’s inductive kick from the valve solenoid it’s being coupled all the way from there, back through the 24DC supply to the outlet, then forward through the USB supply to your shift register, which is impressive! But not implausible.\n
\n
Anyway, three places I’d add some stuff:\n
\n
- The main thing you need is a snubber network across the valve solenoid coil itself, ideally physically close to the valve (you want to minimize the *area of the loop* formed by the valve coil - wiring - snubber). Something as simple as a freewheel/clamping diode would probably help a lot. This will also improve the lifespan of your relay contacts which are probably arcing a little.\n
- Small decoupling cap on your breadboard, say 0.1µF on the power supply rails, to keep your logic happy.\n
- Larger decoupling cap on your 24VDC rails (the bus on the left), just to eat any transients the snubber doesn’t deal with. Maybe 1-10µF or so?
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 33 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
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|
| 34 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2347 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 35 |
DENIED
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688230614 {#2293
date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 36 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2347 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2460
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
"""
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date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 37 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 38 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2460
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2347 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
"""
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]
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date: 2023-07-04 02:30:44.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7819
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 39 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2460
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2347 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
+type: "article"
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date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
"""
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date: 2023-07-04 02:30:44.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7819
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 40 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2460
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2347 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
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+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
From that description it sounds a little bit like the [CUI PJ-096](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-devices/PJ-096H/9830159) ? Not a common connector type AFAIK\n
\n
(Found it via [connectorbook.com](http://connectorbook.com/identification.html?m=NN&n=radial_symmetry_conn))
"""
+lang: "en"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688430644 {#2456
date: 2023-07-04 02:30:44.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7819
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 41 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 42 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1525
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2265 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2263 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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+body: "I've had middling-to-good results making battery contacts out of springy bronze metal stock. It solders well, it's easy to shape, and if you get the right kind of metal it retains its springiness well. (510 or 544 alloy, maybe? It's been a while.)"
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"@lemann@lemmy.one"
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-bodyTs: "'510':40 '544':42 'alloy':43 'batteri':10 'bronz':15 'contact':11 'easi':23 'get':29 'good':7 'kind':32 'make':9 'mayb':44 'metal':16,34 'middl':5 'middling-to-good':4 'result':8 'retain':36 'right':31 'shape':25 'solder':19 'springi':14,38 'stock':17 've':2 'well':20,39"
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
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}
]
-id: 443
-titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2279
date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 43 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1525
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2265 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2263 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
}
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+body: "I've had middling-to-good results making battery contacts out of springy bronze metal stock. It solders well, it's easy to shape, and if you get the right kind of metal it retains its springiness well. (510 or 544 alloy, maybe? It's been a while.)"
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
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"@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@lemann@lemmy.one"
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
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}
]
-id: 443
-titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2279
date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 44 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1525
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2265 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2263 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1527 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1527 …}
+body: "I've had middling-to-good results making battery contacts out of springy bronze metal stock. It solders well, it's easy to shape, and if you get the right kind of metal it retains its springiness well. (510 or 544 alloy, maybe? It's been a while.)"
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
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"@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@lemann@lemmy.one"
]
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-id: 4651
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
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}
]
-id: 443
-titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2279
date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 45 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 46 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1525
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2265 …}
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+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
}
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-id: 443
-titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1527 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1527 …}
+body: "I've had middling-to-good results making battery contacts out of springy bronze metal stock. It solders well, it's easy to shape, and if you get the right kind of metal it retains its springiness well. (510 or 544 alloy, maybe? It's been a while.)"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
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"@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@lemann@lemmy.one"
]
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-id: 4651
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687737178 {#1567
date: 2023-06-26 01:52:58.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 4651
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 47 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1525
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2265 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2263 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2056 …}
+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 6
+favouriteCount: 7
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date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2264 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550}
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550
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+slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 49 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 51 |
DENIED
|
edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 52 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 53 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
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| 54 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 55 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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+url: "https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/DDR-60/DDR-60-SPEC.PDF"
+body: """
I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 56 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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+url: "https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/DDR-60/DDR-60-SPEC.PDF"
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
| 57 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 58 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2299 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 59 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1630
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+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#2317
date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
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Show voter details
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2299 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
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| 61 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
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| 62 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1630
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2299 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
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In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-06-26 02:12:03.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687738146 {#1598
date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 4653
} |
|
Show voter details
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edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1630
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2299 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1528 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-06-26 02:12:03.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 4653
} |
|
Show voter details
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| 64 |
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1630
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1629
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2299 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2043 …}
+slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
+title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
+url: null
+body: """
Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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In addition to the voltages being different between real-RS232 and "TTL"-serial, they're also swapped. On a DB9 you probably have something approximating RS232, where mark=-9V and space=+9V, but the debug header is likely mark=+3V and space=0V. So even if your inputs can handle a wide voltage range, the sense is inverted, which is why you'll get garble.\n
\n
(For example, when the line is idle it's at the 'mark' voltage and the receiver knows a character is incoming when it transitions to 'space' for one period (the start-bit). If mark and space are swapped, the receiver will see 'space' most of the time and only detect a character starting when there are some 'mark' bits in the middle of a transmitted character. It'll never actually synchronize correctly with the transmitter.)\n
\n
You can figure out what you've got with a multimeter and checking what the voltage is on the TX pin when it's idle.
"""
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