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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Show voter details
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3 |
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1571
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Show voter details
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4 |
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1571
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Show voter details
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
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Show voter details
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7 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1696
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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date: 2023-07-04 20:58:39.0 +02:00
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1696}
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-titleTs: "'5.08':7 '7.4':5 'chassi':10 'descript':18 'femal':9 'find':3 'mm':8 'mount':11 'socket':12 'use':15 'wrong':17 'x':6"
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+ranking: 1688268114
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/416119"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688230614 {#2036
date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1650 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1679 …}
+body: "Thanks for the suggestion - I think that there are inline adapters to a different plug, but finding a different coaxial plug that will handle that current could prove challenging."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688273945 {#1428
date: 2023-07-02 06:59:05.0 +02:00
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Krististrasza@lemmy.world"
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688273945 {#1440
date: 2023-07-02 06:59:05.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 6945
} |
|
Show voter details
|
9 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
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+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#1628
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2083 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2346 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2345 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2328 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1580
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1527 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1548 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1562 …}
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-id: 7087
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+ranking: 0
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+visibility: "visible "
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688334675 {#1555
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1604 …}
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2422
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
11 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2083 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2346 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2345 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2328 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1580
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
+ranking: 0
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+visibility: "visible "
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2422
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
12 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2083 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2346 …}
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2328 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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+isAdult: false
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+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1580
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1527 …}
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-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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-id: 7168
-bodyTs: "'10k':28 'ad':53 'add':71,217 'albeit':196 'amp':118,155,176 'amplifi':195 'aren':173 'attenu':147,198 'back':39 'bite':211 'break':15 'cabl':55,73 'capacit':113 'capacitor':33,220 'cascad':205 'case':103,188 'cautious':204 'channel':85 'circuit':17,92,123 'combin':48 'condit':184 'connect':13,214 'could':44 'coupl':114 'current':240 'dc':233 'direct':213 'especi':115 'essenti':236 'even':238 'ever':162 'failur':206 'fair':170 'far':158 'free':181 'gain':126,156 'gate':100 'go':38 'good':5,201,228 'ground':133 'happen':82 'hard':168 'high':125,197 'higher':159 'idea':6,229 'imped':140 'input':54,94 'lazi':36 'limit':241 'line':58 'look':8,41 'mani':175 'may':79 'method':90 'mute':89 'never':212 'nois':180 'normal':12 'open':91,122 'parallel':32 'path':131,234 'place':50 'plan':61 'possibl':244 'practic':166 'probabl':106 'provid':231 'rememb':25 'remov':150 'replic':19 'resistor':29 'see':65 'seem':23 'seri':219 'short':128,136 'side':119 'signal':110,130,144,193 'still':107 'stop':80 'switch':97 'test':171 'thus':142 'togeth':152 'transfer':111 'tri':45,76 'turn':153 'two':88 'unavoid':216 'unless':215,235 'use':63 'usual':3,226 'via':95 'wait':209 'whine':68 'would':163 'yes':224"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1621
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
]
-id: 699
-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
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+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1906
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2422
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
13 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
14 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2083 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2346 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2345 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2328 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1580
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1527 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1562 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1554 …}
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-id: 7087
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
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+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1906
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2422
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688334675 {#1555
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1604 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1619 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1687 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1689 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1691 …}
-id: 7168
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1621
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
} |
|
Show voter details
|
15 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 8
+favouriteCount: 5
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+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#1628
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2083 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2346 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2345 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2328 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1562 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1554 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1556 …}
-id: 7087
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
]
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1906
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2422
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
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+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688334675 {#1555
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1687 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1691 …}
-id: 7168
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+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1621
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
} |
|
Show voter details
|
16 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
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I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1621
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
} |
|
Show voter details
|
17 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
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Show voter details
|
18 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1906
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1527 …}
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-id: 7087
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+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
} |
|
Show voter details
|
19 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1687 …}
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1906
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
} |
|
Show voter details
|
20 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2378 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2077 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1620
+user: App\Entity\User {#265 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1567 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1559}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1572 …}
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+root: null
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I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1550
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
} |
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