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Show voter details
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2 |
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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Show voter details
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3 |
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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Show voter details
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4 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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Show voter details
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5 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
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Show voter details
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7 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
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Show voter details
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8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
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Show voter details
|
9 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2339
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+body: """
I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
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I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
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Show voter details
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+title: "For those who pirate songs, how do you discover new music?"
+url: null
+body: """
I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
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I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
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…2
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Show voter details
|
12 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2339
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+title: "For those who pirate songs, how do you discover new music?"
+url: null
+body: """
I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
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I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
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…2
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Show voter details
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13 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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14 |
DENIED
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moderate
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I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
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date: 2023-10-17 00:31:00.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697418627 {#2950
date: 2023-10-16 03:10:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2338 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697438825 {#2343
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
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"@Xirup@lemmy.dbzer0.com"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2159 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2135 …}
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-id: 51866
-bodyTs: "'16k':16 '4bit':17 'care':28 'download':22 'featur':13 'kulturgut@feddit.de':20 'listen':4 'mono':15 'newpip':24 'phone':14 'qualiti':30 'radio':7 'record':9 'samples/s':18 'song':10 'use':2,23"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697438825 {#2336
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 51866
} |
|
Show voter details
|
15 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2335
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2339
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2990 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2338 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "For-those-who-pirate-songs-how-do-you-discover-new"
+title: "For those who pirate songs, how do you discover new music?"
+url: null
+body: """
I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
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+hasEmbed: false
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+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1697667796 {#2985
date: 2023-10-19 00:23:16.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2992 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2994 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2996 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2998 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3000 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3002 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2335}
]
-id: 5635
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1697505027
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/6365568"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697495460 {#2971
date: 2023-10-17 00:31:00.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697418627 {#2950
date: 2023-10-16 03:10:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2338 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697438825 {#2343
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@Xirup@lemmy.dbzer0.com"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2159 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2135 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2068 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2069 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2074 …}
-id: 51866
-bodyTs: "'16k':16 '4bit':17 'care':28 'download':22 'featur':13 'kulturgut@feddit.de':20 'listen':4 'mono':15 'newpip':24 'phone':14 'qualiti':30 'radio':7 'record':9 'samples/s':18 'song':10 'use':2,23"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697438825 {#2336
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 51866
} |
|
Show voter details
|
16 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2335
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2339
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2990 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2338 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "For-those-who-pirate-songs-how-do-you-discover-new"
+title: "For those who pirate songs, how do you discover new music?"
+url: null
+body: """
I know the question is rather awkward at first and I am possibly overlooking something, but I would like to know something I really don’t understand.\n
\n
In the past I have used modified versions of Spotify and they are fine but obviously no modified version allows you to download songs because it is a premium function at server level and honestly I would like to have my songs on my device, so if I don’t have internet I can still listen to them.\n
\n
After those modified versions of Spotify, I have used apps like ViMusic, Spotube and SimpMusic which are basically Youtube Music apps but without ads and with more features, including downloading music, the problem is that they do that at the level of the app itself, not in a separate file. And I love these apps and I can not recommend them enough but my phone is a little old and I see 0 need to change it since I use it for basics usage and although this can sound dumb the interface of these apps are full of blur and unnecessary effects that make my device slow, including Spotify, and I don’t like Spotify Lite because I feel it is a very trimmed version of Spotify.\n
\n
So this is where my question comes in, for those who exclusively download music, how do you discover new songs? Spotify’s recommendation system is great and Youtube’s radio mode is very good but obviously I need to use Spotify or Youtube Music to use it and I prefer to use light apps for local playback because of what I already mentioned.\n
\n
Edit: Thanks for all the recommendations! I never thought this post would get so many answers and there are too many comments to answer one by one, but I admit that the old-school method of reading blogs or magazines works well, and I also like the idea of sites like Last.fm or discogs.
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 121
+favouriteCount: 278
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date: 2023-10-19 00:23:16.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2992 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2994 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2996 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2998 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3000 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3002 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2335}
]
-id: 5635
-titleTs: "'discov':9 'music':11 'new':10 'pirat':4 'song':5"
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1697505027
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/6365568"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697495460 {#2971
date: 2023-10-17 00:31:00.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697418627 {#2950
date: 2023-10-16 03:10:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2338 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I used to listen to the radio and record songs on my feature phone (mono 16k 4bit samples/s).\n
\n
Now !kulturgut@feddit.de and downloading using NewPipe (I don’t care about quality).
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697438825 {#2343
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@Xirup@lemmy.dbzer0.com"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2159 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2135 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2137 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2068 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2069 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2074 …}
-id: 51866
-bodyTs: "'16k':16 '4bit':17 'care':28 'download':22 'featur':13 'kulturgut@feddit.de':20 'listen':4 'mono':15 'newpip':24 'phone':14 'qualiti':30 'radio':7 'record':9 'samples/s':18 'song':10 'use':2,23"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://feddit.de/comment/3934905"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697438825 {#2336
date: 2023-10-16 08:47:05.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 51866
} |
|
Show voter details
|
17 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
18 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2847 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "Well-I-feel-better-now"
+title: "Well I feel better now."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/aa1cd982-f092-43a5-9a32-95fc33e908be.jpeg"
+body: null
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 74
+favouriteCount: 1365
+score: 0
+isAdult: false
+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1697961334 {#2842
date: 2023-10-22 09:55:34.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2857 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2859 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2861 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2863 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2865 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2867 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "Police once apprehended a man at a train station in Kyjov (Kiyov), Czech Republic. He was reported to be drunk but they only found him terribly confused. Turns out, he was a Ukrainian trying to return to Kyjev (Kyiv) but a cashier in another town misunderstood and showed him the wrong train."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 125
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697926631 {#2127
date: 2023-10-22 00:17:11.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@BonesOfTheMoon@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2215 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2198 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2227 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2214 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2225 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2231 …}
-id: 60717
-bodyTs: "'anoth':44 'apprehend':3 'cashier':42 'confus':27 'czech':13 'drunk':20 'found':24 'kiyov':12 'kyiv':39 'kyjev':38 'kyjov':11 'man':5 'misunderstood':46 'polic':1 'report':17 'republ':14 'return':36 'show':48 'station':9 'terribl':26 'town':45 'train':8,52 'tri':34 'turn':28 'ukrainian':33 'wrong':51"
+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697781881 {#2126
date: 2023-10-20 08:04:41.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 60717
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2211 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043}
+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 8
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697854633 {#2209
date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@BonesOfTheMoon@lemmy.world"
"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
"@jmcs@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@p1mrx@sh.itjust.works"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2270 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2257 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2267 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2271 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2272 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2253 …}
-id: 62307
-bodyTs: "'15':61 '45':84 '75':7 'avail':50,71 'border':40 'could':15 'czechia':28 'detour':14 'direct':66 'doubl':19 'easiest':75 'express':88 'fact':12 'gaug':45 'get':24,31,78 'hradiště':94 'journey':4 'km':8,62 'kyiv':26 'kyjov':10,73 'less':17 'local':56 'minut':85 'město':91 'near':38 'otrokovic':64 'poland':37 'przemysl':36,69,81 'start':2 'staré':90 'take':59 'train':34,46,57,67,82 'trolleybus':54 'u':92 'uherského':93 'ukrain':48 'ukrainian':39 'way':22,76 'wide':44 'wide-gaug':43 'zlín':6,52"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://feddit.de/comment/4076216"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697854633 {#2204
date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 62307
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2194 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043}
+body: "He only had a 150km detour. You can’t blame him for thinking “Kyjov” is the Czech spelling of “Київ” as he might not even have known the alphabet."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 18
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1697806708 {#2219
date: 2023-10-20 14:58:28.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@BonesOfTheMoon@lemmy.world"
"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
"@jmcs@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2195 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2197 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2206 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2201 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2203 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2212 …}
-id: 61082
-bodyTs: "'150km':5 'alphabet':29 'blame':10 'czech':17 'detour':6 'even':25 'known':27 'kyjov':14 'might':23 'spell':18 'think':13 'київ':20"
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697811214 {#2217
date: 2023-10-20 16:13:34.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697806708 {#2196
date: 2023-10-20 14:58:28.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 61082
}
]
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697753597 {#2741
date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
19 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2847 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "Well-I-feel-better-now"
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He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
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Show voter details
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20 |
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
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He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
21 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
22 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043
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He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
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date: 2023-10-20 08:04:41.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 60717
} |
|
Show voter details
|
23 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2847 …}
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+slug: "Well-I-feel-better-now"
+title: "Well I feel better now."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/aa1cd982-f092-43a5-9a32-95fc33e908be.jpeg"
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2211 …}
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
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+body: "He only had a 150km detour. You can’t blame him for thinking “Kyjov” is the Czech spelling of “Київ” as he might not even have known the alphabet."
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date: 2023-10-20 16:13:34.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-10-20 08:04:41.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 60717
} |
|
Show voter details
|
24 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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+image: null
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
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date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-10-20 08:04:41.0 +02:00
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+"title": 60717
} |
|
Show voter details
|
25 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
26 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
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…2
}
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
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"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
"@jmcs@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@p1mrx@sh.itjust.works"
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date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
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+"title": 62307
} |
|
Show voter details
|
27 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2847 …}
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+slug: "Well-I-feel-better-now"
+title: "Well I feel better now."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/aa1cd982-f092-43a5-9a32-95fc33e908be.jpeg"
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+image: null
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+body: "Police once apprehended a man at a train station in Kyjov (Kiyov), Czech Republic. He was reported to be drunk but they only found him terribly confused. Turns out, he was a Ukrainian trying to return to Kyjev (Kyiv) but a cashier in another town misunderstood and showed him the wrong train."
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
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+body: "He only had a 150km detour. You can’t blame him for thinking “Kyjov” is the Czech spelling of “Київ” as he might not even have known the alphabet."
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date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2211 …}
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697854633 {#2204
date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 62307
} |
|
Show voter details
|
28 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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+body: "Police once apprehended a man at a train station in Kyjov (Kiyov), Czech Republic. He was reported to be drunk but they only found him terribly confused. Turns out, he was a Ukrainian trying to return to Kyjev (Kyiv) but a cashier in another town misunderstood and showed him the wrong train."
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
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date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2211 …}
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697854633 {#2204
date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 62307
} |
|
Show voter details
|
29 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
30 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
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+body: "Police once apprehended a man at a train station in Kyjov (Kiyov), Czech Republic. He was reported to be drunk but they only found him terribly confused. Turns out, he was a Ukrainian trying to return to Kyjev (Kyiv) but a cashier in another town misunderstood and showed him the wrong train."
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 62307
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697753597 {#2741
date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2194 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043}
+body: "He only had a 150km detour. You can’t blame him for thinking “Kyjov” is the Czech spelling of “Київ” as he might not even have known the alphabet."
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"@BonesOfTheMoon@lemmy.world"
"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
"@jmcs@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2195 …}
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date: 2023-10-20 16:13:34.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697806708 {#2196
date: 2023-10-20 14:58:28.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 61082
} |
|
Show voter details
|
31 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2847 …}
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+slug: "Well-I-feel-better-now"
+title: "Well I feel better now."
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date: 2023-10-22 09:55:34.0 +02:00
}
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2043
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "Police once apprehended a man at a train station in Kyjov (Kiyov), Czech Republic. He was reported to be drunk but they only found him terribly confused. Turns out, he was a Ukrainian trying to return to Kyjev (Kyiv) but a cashier in another town misunderstood and showed him the wrong train."
+lang: "en"
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
"@jmcs@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@p1mrx@sh.itjust.works"
]
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date: 2023-10-21 04:17:13.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 62307
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
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date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697806708 {#2196
date: 2023-10-20 14:58:28.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 61082
} |
|
Show voter details
|
32 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2139
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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date: 2023-10-20 08:04:41.0 +02:00
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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+body: """
He started his journey in Zlín, 75 km from Kyjov.\n
\n
In fact, the detour could be less than double that. The way to get to Kyiv from Czechia is to get on a train to Przemysl, Poland near Ukrainian borders, from where wide-gauge trains to Ukraine are available. From Zlín, a trolleybus or local train will take you 15 km to Otrokovice where direct trains to Przemysl are available. From Kyjov, the easiest way to get to the Przemysl train is 45 minutes on an express to Staré Město u Uherského Hradiště.
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
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date: 2023-10-20 00:13:17.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-10-20 16:13:34.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697806708 {#2196
date: 2023-10-20 14:58:28.0 +02:00
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+"title": 61082
} |
|
Show voter details
|
33 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
34 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+body: """
Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
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+body: """
And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
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"@bungle_in_the_jungle@lemmy.world"
"@LuckingFurker@lemmy.blahaj.zone"
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date: 2023-10-10 09:19:16.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696921707 {#2891
date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
35 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2933 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2934 …}
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+url: "https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/63b1e93b-65d8-4225-899d-7e126517a590.webp"
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Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
+type: "link"
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date: 2023-10-12 02:59:54.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2935 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2939 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2941 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2943 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2945 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1739 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1741 …}
+body: """
And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
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"@sjmarf@sh.itjust.works"
"@bungle_in_the_jungle@lemmy.world"
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date: 2023-10-10 09:19:16.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696921707 {#2891
date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
36 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
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date: 2023-10-12 02:59:54.0 +02:00
}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2943 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2945 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1739 …}
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+body: """
And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
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]
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date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
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}
]
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date: 2023-10-10 09:19:16.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696921707 {#2891
date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
37 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
38 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
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+slug: "Cheese"
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Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
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date: 2023-10-12 02:59:54.0 +02:00
}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2943 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2945 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716}
]
-id: 3998
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+cross: false
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://sh.itjust.works/post/6906187"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696922356 {#2913
date: 2023-10-10 09:19:16.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+body: """
And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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+score: 0
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date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
}
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"@sjmarf@sh.itjust.works"
"@bungle_in_the_jungle@lemmy.world"
"@LuckingFurker@lemmy.blahaj.zone"
"@Z3k3@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1740 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2465 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2463 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2411 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2422 …}
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-id: 39867
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696928323 {#1720
date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 39867
} |
|
Show voter details
|
39 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2933 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2934 …}
+slug: "Cheese"
+title: "Cheese"
+url: "https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/63b1e93b-65d8-4225-899d-7e126517a590.webp"
+body: """
Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
+type: "link"
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date: 2023-10-12 02:59:54.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2935 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2943 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2945 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716}
]
-id: 3998
-titleTs: "'chees':1"
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+cross: false
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696922356 {#2913
date: 2023-10-10 09:19:16.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+body: """
And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
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date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
}
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"@sjmarf@sh.itjust.works"
"@bungle_in_the_jungle@lemmy.world"
"@LuckingFurker@lemmy.blahaj.zone"
"@Z3k3@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1740 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2465 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2411 …}
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-id: 39867
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696928323 {#1720
date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 39867
} |
|
Show voter details
|
40 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1717
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2931 …}
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Image of a news headline with a photo of Boris Johnson and Rishi Sunak toasting pints of beer in a pub. Headline reads:\n
\n
“Boris Johnson says people should work in-person again because when he works from home he gets distracted by cheese.”
"""
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date: 2023-10-12 02:59:54.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1716}
]
-id: 3998
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}
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date: 2023-10-10 09:08:27.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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And when he said [he likes painting model buses](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLcCZjDoWTQ) to distract from this false campaign:\n
\n
![](https://pbs.twimg.com/media/D8tX_hOWsAM9T5K.jpg)
"""
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"@bungle_in_the_jungle@lemmy.world"
"@LuckingFurker@lemmy.blahaj.zone"
"@Z3k3@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1740 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2411 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2422 …}
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696928323 {#1720
date: 2023-10-10 10:58:43.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 39867
} |
|
Show voter details
|
41 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
42 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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date: 2023-10-05 00:11:54.0 +02:00
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+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
43 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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+slug: "Music-alignment"
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
44 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1604
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2929 …}
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
45 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
46 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1611
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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…2
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
"""
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date: 2023-10-05 15:39:57.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
47 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1611
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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|
Show voter details
|
48 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1611
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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|
Show voter details
|
49 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
51 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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+slug: "Music-alignment"
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
"""
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+"title": 32864
} |
|
Show voter details
|
52 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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+"title": 32864
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|
Show voter details
|
53 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
54 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
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Or torture more people?!
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728}
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+"title": 32970
} |
|
Show voter details
|
55 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
"""
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date: 2023-10-05 15:39:57.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1613
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728}
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…2
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"@BedbugCutlefish@lemmy.world"
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date: 2023-10-05 15:45:57.0 +02:00
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+"title": 32970
} |
|
Show voter details
|
56 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1728
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As in, put the officers who tortured the prisoners on death row, and free the convicts?\n
\n
Or torture more people?!
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date: 2023-10-05 15:45:57.0 +02:00
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+"title": 32970
} |
|
Show voter details
|
57 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
58 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
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There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
![circle overlay](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/cfc3ff32-073e-4199-8235-86c1a01aa5d0.jpeg)
"""
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
59 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
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+body: """
There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
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"""
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+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
60 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
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There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
![circle overlay](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/cfc3ff32-073e-4199-8235-86c1a01aa5d0.jpeg)
"""
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date: 2023-10-15 00:35:49.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
61 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
62 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2087
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3114 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#3116 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2087}
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date: 2023-10-15 00:35:49.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2086 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2090 …}
+body: """
There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
![circle overlay](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/cfc3ff32-073e-4199-8235-86c1a01aa5d0.jpeg)
"""
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}
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date: 2023-10-15 05:31:59.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 49957
} |
|
Show voter details
|
63 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2087
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "I-hope-you-have-a-wonderful-night"
+title: "I hope you have a wonderful night!"
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/fc0339c7-cc93-4bd4-9260-dfc892bff008.jpeg"
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date: 2023-10-15 00:35:49.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2086 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2090 …}
+body: """
There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
![circle overlay](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/cfc3ff32-073e-4199-8235-86c1a01aa5d0.jpeg)
"""
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}
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date: 2023-10-15 05:31:59.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 49957
} |
|
Show voter details
|
64 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2087
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2091
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2580 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
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date: 2023-10-15 00:35:49.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+body: """
There is little or no parallax, otherwise the arc would not be circular \n
![circle overlay](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/cfc3ff32-073e-4199-8235-86c1a01aa5d0.jpeg)
"""
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}
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date: 2023-10-15 05:31:59.0 +02:00
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+"title": 49957
} |
|
Show voter details
|
65 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
66 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
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+body: """
Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
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date: 2023-10-13 07:50:23.0 +02:00
}
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
67 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#3050 …}
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Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
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}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
68 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
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Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
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date: 2023-10-13 07:50:23.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
69 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
70 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405}
]
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date: 2023-10-13 07:50:23.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
+body: """
Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697177820 {#1402
date: 2023-10-13 08:17:00.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 44714
} |
|
Show voter details
|
71 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#3048 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#3050 …}
+slug: "Inside-the-deadly-instant-loan-app-scam-that-blackmails-with"
+title: "Inside the deadly instant loan app scam that blackmails with nudes"
+url: "https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-66964510"
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}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405}
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date: 2023-10-13 07:50:23.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
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Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697177820 {#1402
date: 2023-10-13 08:17:00.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 44714
} |
|
Show voter details
|
72 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1385
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3007 …}
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+slug: "Inside-the-deadly-instant-loan-app-scam-that-blackmails-with"
+title: "Inside the deadly instant loan app scam that blackmails with nudes"
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}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1405}
]
-id: 4823
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date: 2023-10-13 07:50:23.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1382 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1401 …}
+body: """
Those weren’t nudes of herself, just of her photoshopped on someone else’s body.\n
\n
Do you think a fake bank app would ask for nudes for verification purposes?
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 15
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date: 2023-10-13 08:17:00.0 +02:00
}
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"@throws_lemy@lemmy.nz"
"@Vodik_VDK@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1404 …}
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1697177820 {#1402
date: 2023-10-13 08:17:00.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 44714
} |
|
Show voter details
|
73 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
74 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2739 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2874 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "Don-t-get-your-hopes-too-high"
+title: "Don't get your hopes too high"
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/b16796b0-6753-4ace-92d9-85a44bcd4f62.jpeg"
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}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2884 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2886 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-09-27 06:47:07.0 +02:00
}
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
"@Trekman10@sh.itjust.works"
]
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date: 2023-09-27 06:47:07.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 31892
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550 …}
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
+lang: "en"
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
"@Trekman10@sh.itjust.works"
"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
]
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date: 2023-09-28 06:27:25.0 +02:00
}
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}
]
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date: 2023-09-26 23:24:51.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
75 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2739 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2874 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "Don-t-get-your-hopes-too-high"
+title: "Don't get your hopes too high"
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/b16796b0-6753-4ace-92d9-85a44bcd4f62.jpeg"
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}
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+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578 …2}
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
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date: 2023-09-27 06:47:07.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550 …}
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
"@Trekman10@sh.itjust.works"
"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
]
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|
Show voter details
|
76 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1575 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
77 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
78 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550 …}
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
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"@ChaoticNeutralCzech@feddit.de"
]
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…2
}
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+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
"@Trekman10@sh.itjust.works"
]
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|
Show voter details
|
79 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1578
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2739 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2848 …}
+slug: "Don-t-get-your-hopes-too-high"
+title: "Don't get your hopes too high"
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/b16796b0-6753-4ace-92d9-85a44bcd4f62.jpeg"
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+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1550 …}
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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"@nodimetotie@lemmy.world"
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+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
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Show voter details
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80 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1595
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> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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Show voter details
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81 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
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[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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Show voter details
|
83 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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date: 2023-09-28 06:27:25.0 +02:00
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+"title": 31894
} |
|
Show voter details
|
84 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548
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+slug: "Don-t-get-your-hopes-too-high"
+title: "Don't get your hopes too high"
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/b16796b0-6753-4ace-92d9-85a44bcd4f62.jpeg"
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+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1652 …}
+body: "That’s what I’ve been doing at czech-lemmy.eu and it isn’t growing :( Czechs [seem to be comfortable with Reddit](https://old-reddit-com.translate.goog/r/czech/comments/16j7e6t/na_redditu_to_smrd%C3%AD_poj%C4%8Fte_budovat_%C4%8Deskou/?_x_tr_sl=cs&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en)."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1548}
]
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date: 2023-09-26 23:24:51.0 +02:00
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+body: """
> your friends\n
\n
I don’t have friends. I’m a Lemming (former Redditor), after all.\n
\n
> elsewhere on the Fediverse\n
\n
Good point.\n
\n
There’s !czech@kbin.social but federation with Lemmy does not really work at this point. \n
There are several Mastodon instances like witter.cz which are reasonably alive but I prefer Reddit-style social media. I might need to compromise on this, though. \n
[Hive](https://hive.blog/trending/hive-128464) and Dread have been suggested but I can’t imagine the crypro-heavy or dark web platforms attracting a meaningful crowd.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
85 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
86 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
87 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
+image: null
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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date: 2023-10-20 11:36:44.0 +02:00
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
88 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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Show voter details
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89 |
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Show voter details
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90 |
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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…2
}
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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|
Show voter details
|
91 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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date: 2023-10-20 11:36:44.0 +02:00
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+"title": 60873
} |
|
Show voter details
|
92 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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+"title": 59591
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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…2
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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|
Show voter details
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93 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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94 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306 …}
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 11:00:01.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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+"title": 60770
} |
|
Show voter details
|
95 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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date: 2023-10-20 11:36:44.0 +02:00
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
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+body: """
The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2122 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2122 …}
+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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…2
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
96 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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Show voter details
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
99 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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|
Show voter details
|
100 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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101 |
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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Show voter details
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103 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121}
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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…2
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
104 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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date: 2023-10-20 11:36:44.0 +02:00
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
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105 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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106 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:17:41.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-26 11:58:33.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100 …2}
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-19 20:32:08.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307}
]
-id: 6470
-titleTs: "'1':11 '2':8 'cabl':6,9 'effici':14 'energi':13 'impact':12 'multiplex':2 'power':5 'usb':4"
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date: 2023-10-19 19:43:53.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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+body: """
He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 11:00:01.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-10-20 10:54:46.0 +02:00
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+"title": 60841
} |
|
Show voter details
|
107 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2853 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#2099 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2893 …}
+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2281
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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date: 2023-10-20 11:36:44.0 +02:00
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2192
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+body: """
I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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date: 2023-10-20 09:13:08.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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date: 2023-10-19 20:08:42.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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+body: """
Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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date: 2023-10-28 11:49:18.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307}
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…2
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He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
108 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2307
+user: App\Entity\User {#259 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2100
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+slug: "Does-multiplexing-a-usb-power-cable-from-2-cables-into"
+title: "Does multiplexing a usb power cable from 2 cables into 1 impact energy efficiency?"
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+body: """
I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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+body: "You’re confused. W/m means watts per meter, and the “5Ah” is probably actually 5 A, or the current you can push through the strip (limiting the length to below 2 m)."
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I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
\n
The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
\n
The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
\n
By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2104
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The strips use 3V white LEDs, power to which is delivered via resistors or linear current regulators. Unless you see any inductors, there is no buck converter from 5 V to 3 V.\n
\n
Why does this matter? Well, with resistors and linear regulators, 𝐼~in~ (current in) pretty much equals 𝐼~out~ (current out). So the efficiency 𝜂 = 𝑃~in~ / 𝑃~out~ = (𝐼 × 3 V) / (𝐼 × 5 V) = 60 %. Extra cable resistance will reduce the current, brightness and power, but still exactly 40% of power leaving the USB charger will be wasted before it gets to the LEDs.\n
\n
However, I would advise against multiple, cheap USB connectors in the circuit: when moving the setup, their resistance changes somewhat and you would get blinking. The worst thing that could happen is a switch, such low voltage cannot spark over an oxide layer and eventually even small movement will blink the lights. I would get a good thick USB cable and solder it directly to one of the strips instead of whatever it came with, connecting the other with some thick wires.\n
\n
So it does not matter, if you want better efficiency, use 12V (75%) or 24V strips (87%), or get just an LED array without resistors that needs a constant current driver (theoretically 100% but CC PSUs are slightly less efficient). Or make a constant current driver by fine-tuning the voltage of a PSU (by adjusting the feedback resistive divider) to 0.5-1 V above the LEDs’ voltage drop, then using an appropriate resistor to limit the current.
"""
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Fire hazard? Not really. The charger will not provide more than 5 V, 3.1 A or whatever its rating is. Even if the strip fails short circuit (unlikely, most LEDs blow open and there is at least a resistor in series anyway), nothing will receive more than 15 W of power. A 1m cable can safely dissipate that.\n
\n
Worst case scenario, an LED fails short and its series resistor will receive over 6x its intended power (with 5 V across it instead of 2 V, and its current will increase correspondingly). It is soldered on power-dissipating flexible PCB and will probably not blow open. It will get the area somewhat hot and potentially melt the plastic in the back of the monitor while the rest of the strip keeps glowing but more dimly. Hard to tell if it could get over flammable temperatures with moderate heatsinking and only a few watts of power.\n
\n
To keep safe, I would deliberately *add* resistance before the LED strip, using something like a 1Ω 5W resistor (or a shitty long cable). That way, the voltage drops significantly in case of a short. Also, the LEDs will run at lower-than-intended current, which prolongs their life and decreases risk of failure.\n
\n
Edit: Some microwaves have a 0.8Ω 25W resistor as part of inrush, at least in 230V regions. Feel free to use that, it will happily handle a semi-short circuit. Or you know, an automotive fuse.\n
\n
The safest option is replacing the whole setup with an LED strip that has no resistors (bare LEDs) and a constant current driver.
"""
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He meant watts per meter, not minute – the strips can be cut and rejoined. As for the 5 Ah, no clue.\n
\n
The circumference of a monitor is more than 1 m, so a charger of 3 A at least will be necessary for each. This is why I prefer higher-voltage strips where less current is required and higher resistance is tolerable. Anyway, the power is quite high and this could cause overheating problems.
"""
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115 |
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1410
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116 |
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1410
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117 |
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Show voter details
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118 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2033
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Reference?\n
\n
![Language by Mali Benedicto Vasanserekul](https://cdnb.artstation.com/p/assets/images/images/019/397/577/large/mali-benedicto-vasanserekul-fuck-off-final.jpg?1563303887)
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Show voter details
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119 |
DENIED
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edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2033
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Reference?\n
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![Language by Mali Benedicto Vasanserekul](https://cdnb.artstation.com/p/assets/images/images/019/397/577/large/mali-benedicto-vasanserekul-fuck-off-final.jpg?1563303887)
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Show voter details
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120 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2033
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Reference?\n
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121 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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122 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011
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Reference?\n
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Show voter details
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123 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011
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Reference?\n
\n
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Show voter details
|
124 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011
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Reference?\n
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|
Show voter details
|
125 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
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null |
|
Show voter details
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126 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2076
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|
Show voter details
|
127 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2076
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Show voter details
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128 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2076
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Show voter details
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129 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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130 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2078
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Show voter details
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131 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2078
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Show voter details
|
132 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2078
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Show voter details
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133 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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134 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2452
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|
Show voter details
|
135 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2452
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|
Show voter details
|
136 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2452
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Show voter details
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137 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
138 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2453
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Show voter details
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139 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2453
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Show voter details
|
140 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2453
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141 |
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Show voter details
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143 |
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2348
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Show voter details
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144 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2348
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Show voter details
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145 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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146 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2326
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Show voter details
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147 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2326
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148 |
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149 |
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Show voter details
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151 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2330
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Show voter details
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152 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2330
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Show voter details
|
153 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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154 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2049
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Show voter details
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155 |
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2049
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Show voter details
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156 |
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2049
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Show voter details
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157 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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158 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2070
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Show voter details
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159 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2070
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Show voter details
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160 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2070
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161 |
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