Components

24 Twig Components
111 Render Count
443 ms Render Time
16.0 MiB Memory Usage

Components

Name Metadata Render Count Render Time
settings_row_switch
"App\Twig\Components\SettingsRowSwitchComponent"
components/_settings_row_switch.html.twig
15 2.83ms
user_avatar
"App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent"
components/user_avatar.html.twig
13 48.45ms
date
"App\Twig\Components\DateComponent"
components/date.html.twig
11 5.27ms
user_inline
"App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent"
components/user_inline.html.twig
10 4.40ms
date_edited
"App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent"
components/date_edited.html.twig
9 0.98ms
vote
"App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent"
components/vote.html.twig
9 8.19ms
boost
"App\Twig\Components\BoostComponent"
components/boost.html.twig
9 22.61ms
entry_comment
"App\Twig\Components\EntryCommentComponent"
components/entry_comment.html.twig
8 861.76ms
entry_comments_nested
"App\Twig\Components\EntryCommentsNestedComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
8 616.77ms
user_settings_row_switch
"App\Twig\Components\UserSettingsRowSwitchComponent"
components/_user_settings_row_switch.html.twig
4 0.68ms
settings_row_enum
"App\Twig\Components\SettingsRowEnumComponent"
components/_settings_row_enum.html.twig
2 0.38ms
entry
"App\Twig\Components\EntryComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 24.25ms
entries_cross
"App\Twig\Components\EntriesCrossComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 66.81ms
editor_toolbar
"App\Twig\Components\EditorToolbarComponent"
components/editor_toolbar.html.twig
1 0.25ms
user_actions
"App\Twig\Components\UserActionsComponent"
components/user_actions.html.twig
1 0.44ms
magazine_box
"App\Twig\Components\MagazineBoxComponent"
components/magazine_box.html.twig
1 14.25ms
magazine_sub
"App\Twig\Components\MagazineSubComponent"
components/magazine_sub.html.twig
1 0.58ms
related_magazines
"App\Twig\Components\RelatedMagazinesComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 15.31ms
active_users
"App\Twig\Components\ActiveUsersComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 30.76ms
related_categories
"App\Twig\Components\RelatedCategoriesComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 3.20ms
related_posts
"App\Twig\Components\RelatedPostsComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 1.51ms
related_entries
"App\Twig\Components\RelatedEntriesComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 1.46ms
support_us_block
"App\Twig\Components\SupportUsBlock"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 0.20ms
featured_magazines
"App\Twig\Components\FeaturedMagazinesComponent"
components/_cached.html.twig
1 0.66ms

Render calls

entry App\Twig\Components\EntryComponent 16.0 MiB 24.25 ms
Input props
[
  "entry" => App\Entity\Entry {#2413
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973
      +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1406 …}
      +cover: null
      +email: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +username: "@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +roles: []
      +followersCount: 0
      +homepage: "front"
      +about: "20, 🇮🇹🇪🇺, femboy foxxo🦊, queer 🏳️\u{200D}🌈, computer engineering student"
      +lastActive: DateTime @1688419704 {#1520
        date: 2023-07-03 23:28:24.0 +02:00
      }
      +markedForDeletionAt: null
      +fields: null
      +oauthGithubId: null
      +oauthGoogleId: null
      +oauthFacebookId: null
      +oauthKeycloakId: null
      +hideAdult: true
      +showSubscribedUsers: true
      +showSubscribedMagazines: true
      +showSubscribedDomains: true
      +preferredLanguages: []
      +featuredMagazines: null
      +showProfileSubscriptions: true
      +showProfileFollowings: true
      +markNewComments: false
      +notifyOnNewEntry: false
      +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
      +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
      +notifyOnNewPost: false
      +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
      +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
      +addMentionsEntries: false
      +addMentionsPosts: true
      +isBanned: false
      +isVerified: false
      +isDeleted: false
      +isBot: false
      +spamProtection: true
      +customCss: null
      +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
      +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1713 …}
      +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1710 …}
      +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1742 …}
      +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1659 …}
      +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1747 …}
      +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1753 …}
      +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1483 …}
      +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1468 …}
      +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1492 …}
      +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1777 …}
      +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1634 …}
      +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1757 …}
      +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1446 …}
      +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1423 …}
      +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1421 …}
      +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1464 …}
      +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1454 …}
      +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1428 …}
      +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1431 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1448 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1703 …}
      +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1696 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1595 …}
      +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1700 …}
      +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1744 …}
      +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1673 …}
      -id: 16772
      -password: "$2y$13$OjYMm414GbaFi4fIQE8c5uerhlkk1GmRNkn96coAdCWFFW.l22gSW"
      -totpSecret: null
      -totpBackupCodes: []
      -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
      +apId: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
      +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
      +apFollowersUrl: null
      +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
      +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
      +apPreferredUsername: "derivativeoflog7"
      +apDiscoverable: true
      +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
      +privateKey: null
      +publicKey: null
      +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1688419705 {#1516
        date: 2023-07-03 23:28:25.0 +02:00
      }
      +apDeletedAt: null
      +apTimeoutAt: null
      +visibility: "visible             "
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304262 {#1519
        date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
      }
      +__isInitialized__: true
       …2
    }
    +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
      +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
      +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
      +title: "askelectronics"
      +description: """
        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
        \n
        Rules\n
        -----\n
        \n
        1: Be nice.\n
        \n
        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
        \n
        3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
        \n
        4: Be safe.\n
        \n
        ---
        """
      +rules: null
      +subscriptionsCount: 1
      +entryCount: 154
      +entryCommentCount: 1230
      +postCount: 1
      +postCommentCount: 4
      +isAdult: false
      +customCss: null
      +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
        date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
      }
      +markedForDeletionAt: null
      +tags: null
      +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
      +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
      +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
      +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
      +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
      +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
      +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
      +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
      +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
      +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
      +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
      -id: 11
      +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
      +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
      +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
      +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
      +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
      +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
      +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
      +apDiscoverable: true
      +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
      +privateKey: null
      +publicKey: null
      +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
        date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
      }
      +apDeletedAt: null
      +apTimeoutAt: null
      +visibility: "visible             "
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
        date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
      }
    }
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
    +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
    +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
      I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
      However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
    +type: "article"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: false
    +commentCount: 8
    +favouriteCount: 5
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
    +sticky: false
    +lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#2418
      date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1408 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1961 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1972 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1399 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2440 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2436 …}
    +children: []
    -id: 699
    -titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
    -bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1688335184
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#1858
      date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2388
      date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "isSingle" => true
  "showShortSentence" => false
  "showBody" => true
]
Attributes
[
  "class" => "entry--single section--top"
]
Component
App\Twig\Components\EntryComponent {#2962
  -authorizationChecker: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\AuthorizationChecker {#931 …}
  -newCommentMarkerCount: App\Kbin\NewCommentMarker\NewCommentMarkerCount {#2963 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -security: Symfony\Bundle\SecurityBundle\Security {#1101 …}
  +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973
      +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1406 …}
      +cover: null
      +email: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +username: "@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +roles: []
      +followersCount: 0
      +homepage: "front"
      +about: "20, 🇮🇹🇪🇺, femboy foxxo🦊, queer 🏳️\u{200D}🌈, computer engineering student"
      +lastActive: DateTime @1688419704 {#1520
        date: 2023-07-03 23:28:24.0 +02:00
      }
      +markedForDeletionAt: null
      +fields: null
      +oauthGithubId: null
      +oauthGoogleId: null
      +oauthFacebookId: null
      +oauthKeycloakId: null
      +hideAdult: true
      +showSubscribedUsers: true
      +showSubscribedMagazines: true
      +showSubscribedDomains: true
      +preferredLanguages: []
      +featuredMagazines: null
      +showProfileSubscriptions: true
      +showProfileFollowings: true
      +markNewComments: false
      +notifyOnNewEntry: false
      +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
      +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
      +notifyOnNewPost: false
      +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
      +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
      +addMentionsEntries: false
      +addMentionsPosts: true
      +isBanned: false
      +isVerified: false
      +isDeleted: false
      +isBot: false
      +spamProtection: true
      +customCss: null
      +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
      +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1713 …}
      +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1710 …}
      +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1742 …}
      +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1659 …}
      +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1747 …}
      +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1753 …}
      +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1483 …}
      +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1468 …}
      +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1492 …}
      +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1777 …}
      +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1634 …}
      +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1757 …}
      +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1446 …}
      +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1423 …}
      +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1421 …}
      +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1464 …}
      +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1454 …}
      +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1428 …}
      +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1431 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1448 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1703 …}
      +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1696 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1595 …}
      +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1700 …}
      +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1744 …}
      +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1673 …}
      -id: 16772
      -password: "$2y$13$OjYMm414GbaFi4fIQE8c5uerhlkk1GmRNkn96coAdCWFFW.l22gSW"
      -totpSecret: null
      -totpBackupCodes: []
      -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
      +apId: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
      +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
      +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
      +apFollowersUrl: null
      +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
      +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
      +apPreferredUsername: "derivativeoflog7"
      +apDiscoverable: true
      +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
      +privateKey: null
      +publicKey: null
      +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1688419705 {#1516
        date: 2023-07-03 23:28:25.0 +02:00
      }
      +apDeletedAt: null
      +apTimeoutAt: null
      +visibility: "visible             "
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304262 {#1519
        date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
      }
      +__isInitialized__: true
       …2
    }
    +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
      +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
      +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
      +title: "askelectronics"
      +description: """
        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
        \n
        Rules\n
        -----\n
        \n
        1: Be nice.\n
        \n
        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
        \n
        3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
        \n
        4: Be safe.\n
        \n
        ---
        """
      +rules: null
      +subscriptionsCount: 1
      +entryCount: 154
      +entryCommentCount: 1230
      +postCount: 1
      +postCommentCount: 4
      +isAdult: false
      +customCss: null
      +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
        date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
      }
      +markedForDeletionAt: null
      +tags: null
      +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
      +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
      +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
      +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
      +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
      +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
      +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
      +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
      +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
      +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
      +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
      -id: 11
      +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
      +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
      +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
      +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
      +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
      +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
      +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
      +apDiscoverable: true
      +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
      +privateKey: null
      +publicKey: null
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        date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
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    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
    +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
    +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
      I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
      However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.19 ms
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    +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
      I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
      However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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    +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
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      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
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      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
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      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
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      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
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      \n
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      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
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      \n
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      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
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      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
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      \n
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      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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        \n
        Rules\n
        -----\n
        \n
        1: Be nice.\n
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        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
    +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
      I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
      However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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]
Attributes
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Component
App\Twig\Components\EntriesCrossComponent {#3750
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        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
        \n
        Rules\n
        -----\n
        \n
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        \n
        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
        \n
        3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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      I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
      \n
      When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
      \n
      To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
      \n
      I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
      [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
      \n
      This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
      I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
      \n
      I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
      \n
      However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
      \n
      Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
      \n
      I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
      \n
      The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
      """
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      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
      +url: null
      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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          Rules\n
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          \n
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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    +body: """
      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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}
user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 0.15 ms
Input props
[
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Attributes
[]
Component
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date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.14 ms
Input props
[
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#4370
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}
date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.09 ms
Input props
[
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  "editedAt" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent {#4424
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}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.28 ms
Input props
[
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  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#4480
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vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.40 ms
Input props
[
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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boost App\Twig\Components\BoostComponent 16.0 MiB 0.73 ms
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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    +body: """
      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
      \n
      However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
      """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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    7179 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#4171
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      +parent: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4157}
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      +body: """
        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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        "@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
        "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      -id: 7179
      -bodyTs: "'10k':28 'ad':94 'add':72 'amp':60 'back':39 'break':15 'capacitor':33,49,57,75,84 'circuit':17 'connect':13 'could':62,70 'final':55 'go':38 'good':5 'ground':53 'help':71 'idea':6 'lazi':36 'line':95 'look':8,41 'normal':12 'origin':91 'pair':67 'parallel':32,48,66 'polaris':83 'protect':86 'rememb':25 'replic':19,64 'resistor':29,46,51 'seem':23 'seri':74 'tri':63 'usual':3 'would':79"
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        date: 2023-07-03 10:17:42.0 +02:00
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    7489 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#4202
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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        date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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    7493 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#4225
      +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973 …2}
      +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413}
      +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264}
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      +parent: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4211
        +user: App\Entity\User {#4023}
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        +parent: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4171}
        +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
        +lang: "en"
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        -id: 7386
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      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
      +lang: "en"
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      -bodyTs: "'2μf':12 'alreadi':16 'amp':20 'aux':8 'capacitor':13 'circuit':6 'goe':9 'input':21 'line':22 'modifi':4 'suffici':25 'way':2"
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      +body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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entry_comment App\Twig\Components\EntryCommentComponent 16.0 MiB 225.81 ms
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          \n
          Rules\n
          -----\n
          \n
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          \n
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          \n
          4: Be safe.\n
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      +image: null
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
        \n
        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
        """
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user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 0.14 ms
Input props
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[]
Component
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date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#5047
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}
date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.09 ms
Input props
[
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent {#5101
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}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 42.45 ms
Input props
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     …2
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  "width" => 40
  "height" => 40
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#5155
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     …2
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}
vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.44 ms
Input props
[
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       …2
    }
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        +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
        +title: "askelectronics"
        +description: """
          **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
          \n
          Rules\n
          -----\n
          \n
          1: Be nice.\n
          \n
          2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
          \n
          3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
          \n
          4: Be safe.\n
          \n
          ---
          """
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      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
      +url: null
      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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      }
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
        \n
        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
        """
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
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        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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boost App\Twig\Components\BoostComponent 16.0 MiB 0.71 ms
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        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
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        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
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        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
        \n
        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
        """
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
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        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
        \n
        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
        """
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
        \n
        However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
        """
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    +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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  +level: 3
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  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -authorizationChecker: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\AuthorizationChecker {#931 …}
}
user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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    +avatar: null
    +cover: null
    +email: "Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +username: "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1689070487 {#4083
      date: 2023-07-11 12:14:47.0 +02:00
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    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
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    +showSubscribedUsers: true
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    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
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    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
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    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4024 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4027 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4019 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4017 …}
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent {#5629
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    +customCss: null
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date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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    date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#5684
  +date: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#4155
    date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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}
date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.09 ms
Input props
[
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    date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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  "editedAt" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent {#5738
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#4155
    date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
  }
  +editedAt: null
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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    +email: "Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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    +customCss: null
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  "width" => 40
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  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#5792
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vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.50 ms
Input props
[
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    +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413
      +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973
        +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1406 …}
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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        +body: """
          I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
          \n
          However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
          """
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      +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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    +body: """
      It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
      \n
      There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
      \n
      Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
      \n
      It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          +body: """
            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          date: 2023-06-20 10:29:55.0 +02:00
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      +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413}
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          +body: """
            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 0.14 ms
Input props
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     …2
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent {#6270
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    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1713 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1710 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1742 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1659 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1747 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1753 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1483 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1468 …}
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    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1448 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1703 …}
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    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1595 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1700 …}
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    -totpSecret: null
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    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
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    +apDeletedAt: null
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      date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +showAvatar: false
}
date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.15 ms
Input props
[
  "date" => DateTimeImmutable @1688337526 {#4179
    date: 2023-07-03 00:38:46.0 +02:00
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#6325
  +date: DateTimeImmutable @1688337526 {#4179
    date: 2023-07-03 00:38:46.0 +02:00
  }
}
date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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    date: 2023-07-03 00:38:46.0 +02:00
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  "editedAt" => DateTimeImmutable @1688372262 {#4177
    date: 2023-07-03 10:17:42.0 +02:00
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent {#6379
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688337526 {#4179
    date: 2023-07-03 00:38:46.0 +02:00
  }
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688372262 {#4177
    date: 2023-07-03 10:17:42.0 +02:00
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}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.18 ms
Input props
[
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    +cover: null
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     …2
  }
  "width" => 40
  "height" => 40
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#6433
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      date: 2023-07-03 23:28:24.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +asLink: true
}
vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.54 ms
Input props
[
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      +cover: null
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        date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
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      +__isInitialized__: true
       …2
    }
    +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413
      +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973 …2}
      +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
        +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
        +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
        +title: "askelectronics"
        +description: """
          **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
          \n
          Rules\n
          -----\n
          \n
          1: Be nice.\n
          \n
          2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
          \n
          3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
          \n
          4: Be safe.\n
          \n
          ---
          """
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          date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
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        -id: 11
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          date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
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          date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
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      }
      +image: null
      +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
      +url: null
      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
      +type: "article"
      +lang: "en"
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        date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
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      +children: []
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            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          +body: """
            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          +body: """
            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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          +body: """
            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
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        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
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        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
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        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
            \n
            However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
            """
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        +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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      +body: """
        It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
        \n
        There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
        \n
        Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
        \n
        It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
        """
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      > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
      \n
      There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
      \n
      > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
      \n
      Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
      """
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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      +body: """
        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.60 ms
Input props
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
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        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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      +body: """
        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        \n
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        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
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        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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      +body: """
        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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          Rules\n
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.55 ms
Input props
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
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        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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            +body: """
              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        \n
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        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
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        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
              \n
              However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
              """
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          +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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        +body: """
          It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
          \n
          There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
          \n
          Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
          \n
          It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
          """
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      +body: """
        > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
        \n
        There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
        \n
        > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
        \n
        Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
        """
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    +body: """
      That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
      \n
      Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
      """
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          Rules\n
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          \n
          1: Be nice.\n
          \n
          2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
          \n
          3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
          \n
          4: Be safe.\n
          \n
          ---
          """
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              +body: """
                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              +body: """
                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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        +body: """
          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1428 …}
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    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
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    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1688419705 {#1516
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    +apDeletedAt: null
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    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  "width" => 40
  "height" => 40
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#8356
  +width: 40
  +height: 40
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    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1406 …}
    +cover: null
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    +roles: []
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    +lastActive: DateTime @1688419704 {#1520
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    +markedForDeletionAt: null
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    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
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  +asLink: true
}
vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 2.70 ms
Input props
[
  "subject" => App\Entity\EntryComment {#4225
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973
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       …2
    }
    +entry: App\Entity\Entry {#2413
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        +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
        +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
        +title: "askelectronics"
        +description: """
          **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
          \n
          Rules\n
          -----\n
          \n
          1: Be nice.\n
          \n
          2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
          \n
          3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
          \n
          4: Be safe.\n
          \n
          ---
          """
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      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
      +url: null
      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
      +type: "article"
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        date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
      }
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    }
    +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264}
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                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
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        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              +body: """
                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              +body: """
                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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              +body: """
                I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                \n
                However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                """
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            +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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          +body: """
            It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
            \n
            There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
            \n
            Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
            \n
            It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
            """
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          > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
          \n
          There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
          \n
          > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
          \n
          Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
          """
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      +body: """
        That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
        \n
        Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
        """
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    +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                +body: """
                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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          +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688337526 {#4179
            date: 2023-07-03 00:38:46.0 +02:00
          }
        }
        +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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          "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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        +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4214 …}
        +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4216 …}
        +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4218 …}
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        +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#4210
          date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
        }
      }
      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
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        "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4233 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4237 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4239 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4240 …}
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      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4244 …}
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        date: 2023-07-03 23:28:23.0 +02:00
      }
    }
    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4075}
    +body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
    +lang: "en"
    +isAdult: false
    +favouriteCount: 0
    +score: 0
    +lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#4256
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    +ip: null
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      "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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    +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4253 …}
    +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4250 …}
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  +showEntryTitle: false
  +showNested: true
  +level: 7
  +canSeeTrash: false
  +dateAsUrl: false
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -authorizationChecker: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\AuthorizationChecker {#931 …}
}
user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 0.15 ms
Input props
[
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    +avatar: null
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    +about: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1689070487 {#4083
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    +customCss: null
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    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4027 …}
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]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent {#8823
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    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4024 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#4027 …}
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date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.14 ms
Input props
[
  "date" => DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#4259
    date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#8878
  +date: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#4259
    date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
  }
}
date_edited App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent 16.0 MiB 0.09 ms
Input props
[
  "createdAt" => DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#4259
    date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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  "editedAt" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateEditedComponent {#8932
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#4259
    date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
  }
  +editedAt: null
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
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  "width" => 40
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  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#8986
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  +height: 40
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vote App\Twig\Components\VoteComponent 16.0 MiB 0.66 ms
Input props
[
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                +body: """
                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
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        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
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                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                +body: """
                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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      +slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
      +title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
      +url: null
      +body: """
        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                +body: """
                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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          +body: """
            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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    +body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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        I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
        \n
        When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
        \n
        To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
        \n
        I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
        [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
        \n
        This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
        I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
        \n
        I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
        \n
        However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
        \n
        Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
        \n
        I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
        \n
        The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
        """
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                +body: """
                  I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
                  \n
                  However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
                  """
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              +body: "My bad - yes I mean an AUX input I thought I would’ve needed to ground the unused lines (not sure if I should connect to ground directly or with a resistor) - you think that could be the cause of the whine? The whine comes from the front speakers too. And I really can’t understand how and why I can still get some signal from the stereo…"
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            +body: """
              It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
              \n
              There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
              \n
              Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
              \n
              It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
              """
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          +body: """
            > It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again).\n
            \n
            There’s a resistor, then parallel capacitor and resistor to ground, and finally a capacitor to the amp. I could try replicating the parallel pair if that could help\n
            \n
            > add a series capacitor, if you can.\n
            \n
            Would that be a polarised capacitor for protection? And on both the original and my added lines?
            """
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        +body: """
          That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
          \n
          Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
          """
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      +body: "The way I modified the circuit, the AUX goes into the .2μF capacitors that was already there before the amp input lines, is that sufficient?"
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    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1483 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1468 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1492 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1777 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1634 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1757 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1446 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1423 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1421 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1464 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1454 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1428 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1431 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1448 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1703 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1696 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1595 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1700 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1744 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1673 …}
    -id: 16772
    -password: "$2y$13$OjYMm414GbaFi4fIQE8c5uerhlkk1GmRNkn96coAdCWFFW.l22gSW"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
    +apId: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
    +apPreferredUsername: "derivativeoflog7"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1688419705 {#1516
      date: 2023-07-03 23:28:25.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304262 {#1519
      date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserActionsComponent {#10769
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1406 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
    +username: "@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: "20, 🇮🇹🇪🇺, femboy foxxo🦊, queer 🏳️\u{200D}🌈, computer engineering student"
    +lastActive: DateTime @1688419704 {#1520
      date: 2023-07-03 23:28:24.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1713 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1710 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1742 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1659 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1747 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1753 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1483 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1468 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1492 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1777 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1634 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1757 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1446 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1423 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1421 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1464 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1454 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1428 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1431 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1448 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1703 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1696 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1595 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1700 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1744 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1673 …}
    -id: 16772
    -password: "$2y$13$OjYMm414GbaFi4fIQE8c5uerhlkk1GmRNkn96coAdCWFFW.l22gSW"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1654 …}
    +apId: "derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/derivativeoflog7"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
    +apPreferredUsername: "derivativeoflog7"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1688419705 {#1516
      date: 2023-07-03 23:28:25.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304262 {#1519
      date: 2023-07-02 15:24:22.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
}
date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 0.13 ms
Input props
[
  "date" => DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2388
    date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#10830
  +date: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2388
    date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
  }
}
magazine_box App\Twig\Components\MagazineBoxComponent 16.0 MiB 14.25 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "showSectionTitle" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\MagazineBoxComponent {#10886
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +showCover: true
  +showDescription: true
  +showRules: true
  +showSubscribeButton: true
  +showInfo: true
  +showMeta: true
  +showSectionTitle: true
  +stretchedLink: true
}
magazine_sub App\Twig\Components\MagazineSubComponent 16.0 MiB 0.58 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\MagazineSubComponent {#10944
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
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    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
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    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
}
date App\Twig\Components\DateComponent 16.0 MiB 1.41 ms
Input props
[
  "date" => DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
    date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\DateComponent {#11056
  +date: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
    date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
  }
}
user_inline App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent 16.0 MiB 2.99 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#11115
    +avatar: null
    +cover: null
    +email: "kbin@j0h.nl"
    +username: "Sprite_tm"
    +roles: [
      "ROLE_ADMIN"
    ]
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: "Hi! I'm Sprite_tm. You may know me from sites like https://spritesmods.com."
    +lastActive: DateTime @1707547382 {#11162
      date: 2024-02-10 07:43:02.0 +01:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: true
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11164 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11166 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11168 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11170 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11172 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11174 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11176 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11178 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11180 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11182 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11184 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11186 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11188 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11190 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11192 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11194 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11196 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11198 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11200 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11202 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11204 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11206 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11208 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11210 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11212 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11214 …}
    -id: 1
    -password: "$2y$13$ZX7Aou2QOPRGkHPp4y5x8OWfxZMoT1BGH7bRLlPP7mwZFTkfiaPGG"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11216 …}
    +apId: null
    +apProfileId: null
    +apPublicUrl: null
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: null
    +apDomain: null
    +apPreferredUsername: null
    +apDiscoverable: null
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: """
      -----BEGIN PRIVATE KEY-----\r\n
      MIIJQgIBADANBgkqhkiG9w0BAQEFAASCCSwwggkoAgEAAoICAQDleeotz5TBiMlC\r\n
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      -----END PRIVATE KEY-----
      """
    +publicKey: """
      -----BEGIN PUBLIC KEY-----\r\n
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      -----END PUBLIC KEY-----
      """
    +apFetchedAt: null
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1686560440 {#11163
      date: 2023-06-12 11:00:40.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserInlineComponent {#11133
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#11115
    +avatar: null
    +cover: null
    +email: "kbin@j0h.nl"
    +username: "Sprite_tm"
    +roles: [
      "ROLE_ADMIN"
    ]
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: "Hi! I'm Sprite_tm. You may know me from sites like https://spritesmods.com."
    +lastActive: DateTime @1707547382 {#11162
      date: 2024-02-10 07:43:02.0 +01:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: true
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11164 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11166 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11168 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11170 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11172 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11174 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11176 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11178 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11180 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11182 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11184 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11186 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11188 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11190 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11192 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11194 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11196 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11198 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11200 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11202 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11204 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11206 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11208 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11210 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11212 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11214 …}
    -id: 1
    -password: "$2y$13$ZX7Aou2QOPRGkHPp4y5x8OWfxZMoT1BGH7bRLlPP7mwZFTkfiaPGG"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11216 …}
    +apId: null
    +apProfileId: null
    +apPublicUrl: null
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: null
    +apDomain: null
    +apPreferredUsername: null
    +apDiscoverable: null
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: """
      -----BEGIN PRIVATE KEY-----\r\n
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      -----END PRIVATE KEY-----
      """
    +publicKey: """
      -----BEGIN PUBLIC KEY-----\r\n
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      U45ZxOEnTM9GSbe2y48JSnUCAwEAAQ==\r\n
      -----END PUBLIC KEY-----
      """
    +apFetchedAt: null
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1686560440 {#11163
      date: 2023-06-12 11:00:40.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +showAvatar: true
}
related_magazines App\Twig\Components\RelatedMagazinesComponent 16.0 MiB 15.31 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  "tag" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\RelatedMagazinesComponent {#11324
  +limit: 4
  +tag: null
  +magazine: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  +type: "magazine"
  +title: "related_magazines"
  +refreshedRandom: false
  -repository: App\Repository\MagazineRepository {#332 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
}
active_users App\Twig\Components\ActiveUsersComponent 16.0 MiB 30.76 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\ActiveUsersComponent {#11450
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  -userRepository: App\Repository\UserRepository {#603 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 1.43 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => App\Entity\User {#11700
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11699 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +username: "@jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Grounded tech enthusiast, Linux enjoyer, and Indy 500 wannabe that lives in south-east Indiana.  \n
      Go pride. [#LGBTQ](https://hoosier.social/tags/LGBTQ)
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1690728142 {#11703
      date: 2023-07-30 16:42:22.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11698 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11696 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11694 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11692 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11690 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11688 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11686 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11684 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11682 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11680 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11678 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11676 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11674 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11672 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11670 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11668 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11666 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11664 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11662 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11660 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11658 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11656 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11654 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11652 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11650 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11648 …}
    -id: 20657
    -password: "$2y$13$XNERcrvg1/EZkZQbKQ6R6efd5bjo3rlAJRSz0lDRnfkNCV76hr5Me"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11646 …}
    +apId: "jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +apProfileId: "https://hoosier.social/users/jarrodsfarrell"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://hoosier.social/@jarrodsfarrell"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://hoosier.social/users/jarrodsfarrell/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://hoosier.social/inbox"
    +apDomain: "hoosier.social"
    +apPreferredUsername: "jarrodsfarrell"
    +apDiscoverable: false
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1690726862 {#11702
      date: 2023-07-30 16:21:02.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688878027 {#11701
      date: 2023-07-09 06:47:07.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "width" => 65
  "height" => 65
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#11506
  +width: 65
  +height: 65
  +user: App\Entity\User {#11700
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11699 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +username: "@jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Grounded tech enthusiast, Linux enjoyer, and Indy 500 wannabe that lives in south-east Indiana.  \n
      Go pride. [#LGBTQ](https://hoosier.social/tags/LGBTQ)
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1690728142 {#11703
      date: 2023-07-30 16:42:22.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11698 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11696 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11694 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11692 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11690 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11688 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11686 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11684 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11682 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11680 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11678 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11676 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11674 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11672 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11670 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11668 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11666 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11664 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11662 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11660 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11658 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11656 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11654 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11652 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11650 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11648 …}
    -id: 20657
    -password: "$2y$13$XNERcrvg1/EZkZQbKQ6R6efd5bjo3rlAJRSz0lDRnfkNCV76hr5Me"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11646 …}
    +apId: "jarrodsfarrell@hoosier.social"
    +apProfileId: "https://hoosier.social/users/jarrodsfarrell"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://hoosier.social/@jarrodsfarrell"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://hoosier.social/users/jarrodsfarrell/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://hoosier.social/inbox"
    +apDomain: "hoosier.social"
    +apPreferredUsername: "jarrodsfarrell"
    +apDiscoverable: false
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1690726862 {#11702
      date: 2023-07-30 16:21:02.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688878027 {#11701
      date: 2023-07-09 06:47:07.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +asLink: true
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.34 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => App\Entity\User {#11582
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11581 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +username: "@skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: "i should be writing"
    +lastActive: DateTime @1721044672 {#11585
      date: 2024-07-15 13:57:52.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: true
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11580 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11578 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11576 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11574 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11572 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11570 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11568 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11566 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11564 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11562 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11560 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11558 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11556 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11554 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11552 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11550 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11548 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11546 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11544 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11542 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11540 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11538 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11536 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11534 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11532 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11530 …}
    -id: 39464
    -password: "$2y$13$wQAP4Gif3ESopfZf00xAU.zwr9iTTX.ev3twB9omsse0v00sxuD/G"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11528 …}
    +apId: "skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/u/skillissuer"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/u/skillissuer"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "skillissuer"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1728245617 {#11584
      date: 2024-10-06 22:13:37.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1691480767 {#11583
      date: 2023-08-08 09:46:07.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "width" => 65
  "height" => 65
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#11780
  +width: 65
  +height: 65
  +user: App\Entity\User {#11582
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11581 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +username: "@skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: "i should be writing"
    +lastActive: DateTime @1721044672 {#11585
      date: 2024-07-15 13:57:52.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
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    +addMentionsEntries: false
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    +isBanned: false
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    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11580 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11578 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11576 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11574 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11572 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11570 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11568 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11566 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11564 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11562 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11560 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11558 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11556 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11554 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11552 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11550 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11548 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11546 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11544 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11542 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11540 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11538 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11536 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11534 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11532 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11530 …}
    -id: 39464
    -password: "$2y$13$wQAP4Gif3ESopfZf00xAU.zwr9iTTX.ev3twB9omsse0v00sxuD/G"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11528 …}
    +apId: "skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/u/skillissuer"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/u/skillissuer"
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    +apDiscoverable: true
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    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1728245617 {#11584
      date: 2024-10-06 22:13:37.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
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    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1691480767 {#11583
      date: 2023-08-08 09:46:07.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +asLink: true
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 0.30 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => App\Entity\User {#11897
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11894 …}
    +cover: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11895 …}
    +email: "TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +username: "@TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: ""
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729518803 {#11717
      date: 2024-10-21 15:53:23.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: true
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11892 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11890 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11888 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11886 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11884 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11882 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11880 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11878 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11876 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11874 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11872 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11870 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11868 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11866 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11864 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11862 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11860 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11858 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11856 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11854 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11852 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11850 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11848 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11846 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11844 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11842 …}
    -id: 43677
    -password: "$2y$13$67WvGuLt4FPbc4trvxnH0ODZHTvTlMWI7kaafAJZUzYiSsXw.KDqi"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11840 …}
    +apId: "TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/TCB13"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/TCB13"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
    +apPreferredUsername: "TCB13"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1729566764 {#11898
      date: 2024-10-22 05:12:44.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
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    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1693492241 {#11896
      date: 2023-08-31 16:30:41.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "width" => 65
  "height" => 65
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#11725
  +width: 65
  +height: 65
  +user: App\Entity\User {#11897
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11894 …}
    +cover: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11895 …}
    +email: "TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +username: "@TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: ""
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729518803 {#11717
      date: 2024-10-21 15:53:23.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: true
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11892 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11890 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11888 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11886 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11884 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11882 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11880 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11878 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11876 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11874 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11872 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11870 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11868 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11866 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11864 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11862 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11860 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11858 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11856 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11854 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11852 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11850 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11848 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11846 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11844 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11842 …}
    -id: 43677
    -password: "$2y$13$67WvGuLt4FPbc4trvxnH0ODZHTvTlMWI7kaafAJZUzYiSsXw.KDqi"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11840 …}
    +apId: "TCB13@lemmy.world"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.world/u/TCB13"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.world/u/TCB13"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.world/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.world"
    +apPreferredUsername: "TCB13"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1729566764 {#11898
      date: 2024-10-22 05:12:44.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1693492241 {#11896
      date: 2023-08-31 16:30:41.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +asLink: true
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 1.59 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => App\Entity\User {#11641
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11640 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +username: "@birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Appreciate and upvote every reply to my comments/posts if I can detect any effort being put into it; even if I think you completely missed what I tried to say or strongly disagree with your opinion.\n
      \n
      Occasionally I cannot resist shitposting, hyperbolic, ironic, sarcastic or populist rhetoric; no /s
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1696696022 {#11644
      date: 2023-10-07 18:27:02.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11639 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11637 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11635 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11633 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11631 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11629 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11627 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11625 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11623 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11621 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11619 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11617 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11615 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11613 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11611 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11609 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11607 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11605 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11603 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11601 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11599 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11597 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11595 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11593 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11591 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11589 …}
    -id: 21796
    -password: "$2y$13$ACNmoGKWwRgm/Njn146GG.b25O8.XXYtlu6ZukGNMl7KWiROcYuzK"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11587 …}
    +apId: "birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.ml/u/birdcat"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.ml/u/birdcat"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.ml/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.ml"
    +apPreferredUsername: "birdcat"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1719824521 {#11643
      date: 2024-07-01 11:02:01.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689039812 {#11642
      date: 2023-07-11 03:43:32.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "width" => 65
  "height" => 65
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#11963
  +width: 65
  +height: 65
  +user: App\Entity\User {#11641
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11640 …}
    +cover: null
    +email: "birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +username: "@birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Appreciate and upvote every reply to my comments/posts if I can detect any effort being put into it; even if I think you completely missed what I tried to say or strongly disagree with your opinion.\n
      \n
      Occasionally I cannot resist shitposting, hyperbolic, ironic, sarcastic or populist rhetoric; no /s
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1696696022 {#11644
      date: 2023-10-07 18:27:02.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: true
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: false
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: false
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11639 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11637 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11635 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11633 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11631 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11629 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11627 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11625 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11623 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11621 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11619 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11617 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11615 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11613 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11611 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11609 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11607 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11605 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11603 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11601 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11599 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11597 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11595 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11593 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11591 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11589 …}
    -id: 21796
    -password: "$2y$13$ACNmoGKWwRgm/Njn146GG.b25O8.XXYtlu6ZukGNMl7KWiROcYuzK"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11587 …}
    +apId: "birdcat@lemmy.ml"
    +apProfileId: "https://lemmy.ml/u/birdcat"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://lemmy.ml/u/birdcat"
    +apFollowersUrl: null
    +apInboxUrl: "https://lemmy.ml/inbox"
    +apDomain: "lemmy.ml"
    +apPreferredUsername: "birdcat"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1719824521 {#11643
      date: 2024-07-01 11:02:01.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689039812 {#11642
      date: 2023-07-11 03:43:32.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +asLink: true
}
user_avatar App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent 16.0 MiB 1.16 ms
Input props
[
  "user" => App\Entity\User {#11523
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11522 …}
    +cover: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11521 …}
    +email: "vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +username: "@vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Old roaming Tom Cat (zwerfkater) but still young at heart. Toots EN, (NL,FR,DE). [#DevOpa](https://social.tchncs.de/tags/DevOpa) - interested more in retro tech / culture / aesthetics than new stuff. Also transport and public infrastructure in general (with a UK/European focus)\n
      \n
      Welcome to the secret goose shed!\n
      \n
      Avatar is a tabby point Siamese cat - header picture is a Stentor FM radio transmitter designed in the Netherlands; popular with small pirate radio broadcasters in late 1980s
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1692636225 {#11526
      date: 2023-08-21 18:43:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: true
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
    +isVerified: false
    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11520 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11518 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11468 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11470 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11477 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11478 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11480 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11482 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11479 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11472 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11490 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11487 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11495 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11492 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11500 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11502 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11504 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11912 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11906 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11719 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11708 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11914 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11913 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11910 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11907 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11904 …}
    -id: 41651
    -password: "$2y$13$MR/jvQLw20snj7dhCUOzrerIeJOUi.vmMEXqlAliA6M/KYuWQH.Sa"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11903 …}
    +apId: "vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://social.tchncs.de/users/vfrmedia"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/@vfrmedia"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/users/vfrmedia/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "social.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "vfrmedia"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1692636225 {#11525
      date: 2023-08-21 18:43:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1692554254 {#11524
      date: 2023-08-20 19:57:34.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  "width" => 65
  "height" => 65
  "asLink" => true
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\UserAvatarComponent {#12026
  +width: 65
  +height: 65
  +user: App\Entity\User {#11523
    +avatar: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11522 …}
    +cover: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#11521 …}
    +email: "vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +username: "@vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +roles: []
    +followersCount: 0
    +homepage: "front"
    +about: """
      Old roaming Tom Cat (zwerfkater) but still young at heart. Toots EN, (NL,FR,DE). [#DevOpa](https://social.tchncs.de/tags/DevOpa) - interested more in retro tech / culture / aesthetics than new stuff. Also transport and public infrastructure in general (with a UK/European focus)\n
      \n
      Welcome to the secret goose shed!\n
      \n
      Avatar is a tabby point Siamese cat - header picture is a Stentor FM radio transmitter designed in the Netherlands; popular with small pirate radio broadcasters in late 1980s
      """
    +lastActive: DateTime @1692636225 {#11526
      date: 2023-08-21 18:43:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +fields: null
    +oauthGithubId: null
    +oauthGoogleId: null
    +oauthFacebookId: null
    +oauthKeycloakId: null
    +hideAdult: true
    +showSubscribedUsers: true
    +showSubscribedMagazines: true
    +showSubscribedDomains: true
    +preferredLanguages: []
    +featuredMagazines: null
    +showProfileSubscriptions: false
    +showProfileFollowings: true
    +markNewComments: false
    +notifyOnNewEntry: false
    +notifyOnNewEntryReply: true
    +notifyOnNewEntryCommentReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPost: false
    +notifyOnNewPostReply: true
    +notifyOnNewPostCommentReply: true
    +addMentionsEntries: false
    +addMentionsPosts: true
    +isBanned: false
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    +isDeleted: false
    +isBot: false
    +spamProtection: true
    +customCss: null
    +ignoreMagazinesCustomCss: false
    +moderatorTokens: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11520 …}
    +magazineOwnershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11518 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11468 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11470 …}
    +entryVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11477 …}
    +entryComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11478 …}
    +entryCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11480 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11482 …}
    +postVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11479 …}
    +postComments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11472 …}
    +postCommentVotes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11490 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11487 …}
    +subscribedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11495 …}
    +follows: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11492 …}
    +followers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11500 …}
    +blocks: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11502 …}
    +blockers: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11504 …}
    +blockedMagazines: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11912 …}
    +blockedDomains: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11906 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11719 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11708 …}
    +violations: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11914 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11913 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11910 …}
    +subscribedCategories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11907 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11904 …}
    -id: 41651
    -password: "$2y$13$MR/jvQLw20snj7dhCUOzrerIeJOUi.vmMEXqlAliA6M/KYuWQH.Sa"
    -totpSecret: null
    -totpBackupCodes: []
    -oAuth2UserConsents: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#11903 …}
    +apId: "vfrmedia@social.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://social.tchncs.de/users/vfrmedia"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/@vfrmedia"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/users/vfrmedia/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://social.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "social.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "vfrmedia"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: false
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1692636225 {#11525
      date: 2023-08-21 18:43:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1692554254 {#11524
      date: 2023-08-20 19:57:34.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +asLink: true
}
related_categories App\Twig\Components\RelatedCategoriesComponent 16.0 MiB 3.20 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  "tag" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\RelatedCategoriesComponent {#12094
  +limit: 4
  +tag: null
  +magazine: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  +type: "related"
  +title: "related_categories"
  +refreshedRandom: false
  -repository: App\Repository\CategoryRepository {#12095 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
}
related_posts App\Twig\Components\RelatedPostsComponent 16.0 MiB 1.51 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  "tag" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\RelatedPostsComponent {#12171
  +limit: 4
  +tag: null
  +magazine: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  +type: "magazine"
  +post: null
  +title: "related_posts"
  +refreshedRandom: false
  -repository: App\Repository\PostRepository {#12172 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -mentionManager: App\Service\MentionManager {#388 …}
}
related_entries App\Twig\Components\RelatedEntriesComponent 16.0 MiB 1.46 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  "tag" => null
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\RelatedEntriesComponent {#12244
  +limit: 4
  +tag: null
  +magazine: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  +type: "magazine"
  +entry: null
  +title: "related_entries"
  +refreshedRandom: false
  -repository: App\Repository\EntryRepository {#269 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -mentionManager: App\Service\MentionManager {#388 …}
}
support_us_block App\Twig\Components\SupportUsBlock 16.0 MiB 0.20 ms
Input props
[]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\SupportUsBlock {#12313
  +subject: ? App\Entity\Contracts\VotableInterface
  +url: ? string
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -cache: Symfony\Component\Cache\Adapter\TraceableTagAwareAdapter {#600 …}
  -requestStack: Symfony\Component\HttpFoundation\RequestStack {#1328 …}
  -partnerBlockRepository: App\Repository\PartnerBlockRepository {#12314 …}
}
featured_magazines App\Twig\Components\FeaturedMagazinesComponent 16.0 MiB 0.66 ms
Input props
[
  "magazine" => App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
]
Attributes
[]
Component
App\Twig\Components\FeaturedMagazinesComponent {#12402
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  -twig: Twig\Environment {#1252 …}
  -repository: App\Repository\MagazineRepository {#332 …}
}