1 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
2 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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Rules\n
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Is there a reason why the banner and logo of this community are just the reddit logo?\n
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To be honest that doesn’t seem very appropriate, nor is it very pretty.
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} |
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Show voter details
|
3 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Is there a reason why the banner and logo of this community are just the reddit logo?\n
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Show voter details
|
4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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Is there a reason why the banner and logo of this community are just the reddit logo?\n
\n
To be honest that doesn’t seem very appropriate, nor is it very pretty.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1697
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1690 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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\n
---
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
7 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1697
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1690 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1697
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1690 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I've wondered this occasionally over the years, but never got it working.\n
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Rules\n
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I've wondered this occasionally over the years, but never got it working.\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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I've wondered this occasionally over the years, but never got it working.\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
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Rules\n
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I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
\n
I’ve gotten some Amphenol Mini-PV 47649-000LF, which are amazing and are close-enough to being compatible with a standard dupont housing. But it’s a hassle to crimp the wires myself, especially when I just need another female-female 6in wire.\n
\n
Lots of stuff on the internet, but it’s impossible to tell when it’s actually good and when they just repackaged AliExpress. Anyone have a vendor they’ve had good experiences with? Ideally multi-color, but I’m flexible on that.
"""
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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\n
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\n
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
---
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
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Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
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Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
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Rules\n
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
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I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
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\n
Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
\n
Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
\n
I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
\n
I’m thinking of paralleling a 16v winding on each transformer, doing the same with an 8v winding and putting the two in series to give the 24v. However, that leaves two 16v windings and two 8v windings left unused.\n
\n
Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
\n
Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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31 |
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32 |
DENIED
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33 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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34 |
DENIED
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Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

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Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

"""
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41 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
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\n
Rules\n
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
\n
Ok so I have the following -\n
\n
A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
\n
Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
\n
A 12v LED strip.\n
\n
The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
\n
1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
\n
Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
\n
I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
\n
Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
\n
Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
\n
Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
"""
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Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
\n
Ok so I have the following -\n
\n
A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
\n
Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
\n
A 12v LED strip.\n
\n
The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
\n
1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
\n
Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
\n
I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
\n
Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
\n
Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
\n
Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
\n
Ok so I have the following -\n
\n
A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
\n
Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
\n
A 12v LED strip.\n
\n
The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
\n
1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
\n
Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
\n
I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
\n
Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
\n
Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
\n
Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
"""
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Show voter details
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2471
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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edit
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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Hello, I recently bought a USB A to C cable and it is pretty weird. It is a USB A to USB C cable, seemingly USB 2.0 but the A connector has 5 pins, the 4 pins of USB 2 and what looks like pin 7 of USB 3.0 so in the middle of the back row, the other pins of USB 3.0 are not there and the plasting moulding only allows for that one pin (moreover the USB type C end looks like it only has the few middle pins so it's probably 2.0). The weirdness continues because when connected to a USB power supply the led on the USB C connector lights up but it can only charge simple devices like flashlights or things that generally just accept 5V, anything with fast charging capabilities gets no output. I am probably going to test it with breakout boards and eventually even disassembly it and maybe replace the connectors but in the meantime does anyone have any explanation?\n
\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Hello, I recently bought a USB A to C cable and it is pretty weird. It is a USB A to USB C cable, seemingly USB 2.0 but the A connector has 5 pins, the 4 pins of USB 2 and what looks like pin 7 of USB 3.0 so in the middle of the back row, the other pins of USB 3.0 are not there and the plasting moulding only allows for that one pin (moreover the USB type C end looks like it only has the few middle pins so it's probably 2.0). The weirdness continues because when connected to a USB power supply the led on the USB C connector lights up but it can only charge simple devices like flashlights or things that generally just accept 5V, anything with fast charging capabilities gets no output. I am probably going to test it with breakout boards and eventually even disassembly it and maybe replace the connectors but in the meantime does anyone have any explanation?\n
\n
P.S. I will make a follow up post (or an update here) when I open it up, with photos of course.
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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87 |
DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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this is the link: https://old.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/73f8d2/microwave_control_panel_keypad_stops_working_when/\n
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i'd use google's cache page but it doesn't have this cached.
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Show voter details
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88 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\Entry {#2336
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I have a few old posts on the subreddit and i need to view one of them as i am reviving an old project. there is a comment on one of them that has the info i need. I never screenshotted that info.\n
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this is the link: https://old.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/73f8d2/microwave_control_panel_keypad_stops_working_when/\n
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i'd use google's cache page but it doesn't have this cached.
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89 |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2071
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Show voter details
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91 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2071
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
|
92 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2071
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2067 …}
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
---
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Show voter details
|
93 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
94 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2058
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
|
95 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2058
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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|
Show voter details
|
96 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2058
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
97 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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Show voter details
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