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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
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3 |
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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\n
Rules\n
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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
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Show voter details
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4 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
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What is it and how do I determine the correct replacement?
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Show voter details
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5 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1690
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I replaced my laptop’s battery after it was swollen. I found out that services like call2recycle do not take swollen batteries since they are potentially hazardous material. How can I get rid of that damned spicy pillow? In Dallas. Thanks.\n
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Thanks for the suggestion and tips guys. I have bought lipo fire resistant bags for the batteries. As stated in suggestions here, most of the places like Home Depot, Best Buy, Lowes do have a recycling program; but some of them have disclaimers regarding not accepting swollen batteries. I plan to go to Batteries and Bulbs, Best Buy asap; they look most promising.
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Show voter details
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7 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1690
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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I replaced my laptop’s battery after it was swollen. I found out that services like call2recycle do not take swollen batteries since they are potentially hazardous material. How can I get rid of that damned spicy pillow? In Dallas. Thanks.\n
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Thanks for the suggestion and tips guys. I have bought lipo fire resistant bags for the batteries. As stated in suggestions here, most of the places like Home Depot, Best Buy, Lowes do have a recycling program; but some of them have disclaimers regarding not accepting swollen batteries. I plan to go to Batteries and Bulbs, Best Buy asap; they look most promising.
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Show voter details
|
8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1690
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1695 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I replaced my laptop’s battery after it was swollen. I found out that services like call2recycle do not take swollen batteries since they are potentially hazardous material. How can I get rid of that damned spicy pillow? In Dallas. Thanks.\n
\n
Thanks for the suggestion and tips guys. I have bought lipo fire resistant bags for the batteries. As stated in suggestions here, most of the places like Home Depot, Best Buy, Lowes do have a recycling program; but some of them have disclaimers regarding not accepting swollen batteries. I plan to go to Batteries and Bulbs, Best Buy asap; they look most promising.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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Show voter details
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11 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1647
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+url: null
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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Show voter details
|
12 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1647
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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+slug: "Attempting-to-repair-controller-Have-I-damaged-it-beyond-repair"
+title: "Attempting to repair controller, Have I damaged it beyond repair?"
+url: null
+body: """
Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
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\n
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Hey everyone,\n
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I’m a complete beginner in the world of soldering, and I’m facing some frustrating issues with my soldering iron tips. After just a few minutes of use, my soldering iron tips can’t melt the solder anymore.\n
\n
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Show voter details
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18 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1552
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1552
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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Hello, I have a circuit that will need to return connected hardware to a default state if power is lost. The hardware can handle continuous voltage, so I’m thinking a simple solution would be to use a battery to provide that fallback power source. To avoid draining the battery, I’d like to connect it through a relay on the normally open contact and energize the relay directly from the main power supply on my board.\n
\n
Do I need to look for anything in particular to make sure the coil on the relay I choose can sustain constant voltage for potentially months at a time without damage? Or, is there another similarly low cost and simple solution you’d recommend?\n
\n
The circuit runs on 12VDC from a [Mean Well IRM-10-12 ([specification](https://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=IRM-10)), and the relays I have on hand are OMRON G5LE-14-CF 12VDC ([specification](https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-g5le.pdf)). I don’t see anything on the relay documentation that specifies a maximum duty cycle.
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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---
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
But will probably needadditional things to be integrated and I created an account at Qualcomm but they won’t give anything unless I’m certified from a company to be a customer and actually integrate it…
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
---
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
But will probably needadditional things to be integrated and I created an account at Qualcomm but they won’t give anything unless I’m certified from a company to be a customer and actually integrate it…
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
But will probably needadditional things to be integrated and I created an account at Qualcomm but they won’t give anything unless I’m certified from a company to be a customer and actually integrate it…
"""
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36 |
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
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Rules\n
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I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
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It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
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Show voter details
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39 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1722
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
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I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
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Show voter details
|
40 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1722
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
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I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
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It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
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Thanks!
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Show voter details
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41 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
42 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1714
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
\n
TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
"""
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Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
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Rules\n
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Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
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TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Rules\n
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I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2462
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Show voter details
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49 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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50 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2371
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
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Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
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Show voter details
|
51 |
DENIED
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edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2371
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2363 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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\n
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+url: null
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
\n
Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
\n
Please help!
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Show voter details
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52 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2371
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2363 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
\n
Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
\n
Please help!
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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Rules\n
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60 |
DENIED
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I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
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I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
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Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
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63 |
DENIED
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Rules\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
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\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
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\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
"""
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
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I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
\n
Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
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Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
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\n
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
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\n
I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
\n
Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
2 questions:\n
\n
1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
\n
Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
"""
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
2 questions:\n
\n
1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
\n
Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
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\n
1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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---
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I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
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\n
Rules\n
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
When you turn it upside-down, a tilt switch toggles an LED @ 3mA via a pretty intense debouncing routine.\n
\n
A watchdog timer has it auto power off in 30 minutes.\n
\n
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\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
"""
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91 |
DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
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\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
"""
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Show voter details
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92 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2048
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
"""
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Show voter details
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93 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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94 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2041
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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} |
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Show voter details
|
95 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2041
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#327
date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
}
} |
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