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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
When you turn it upside-down, a tilt switch toggles an LED @ 3mA via a pretty intense debouncing routine.\n
\n
A watchdog timer has it auto power off in 30 minutes.\n
\n
When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
When you turn it upside-down, a tilt switch toggles an LED @ 3mA via a pretty intense debouncing routine.\n
\n
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\n
When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
"""
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Show voter details
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4 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
\n
I settled on a CR2032-powered night light, using an attiny10 microcontroller, where the flash is rated for 100 years unless you're writing to it (which I am not). I did some pretty heavy power optimization. The firmware is hand-optimized assembly.\n
\n
When you turn it upside-down, a tilt switch toggles an LED @ 3mA via a pretty intense debouncing routine.\n
\n
A watchdog timer has it auto power off in 30 minutes.\n
\n
When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
\n
If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
\n
I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
\n
\n
\n
I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
\n
\n
\n
I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
"""
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Show voter details
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5 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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6 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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+body: "Hello, I have a strange problem with the LM337 regulator. I have built a classic LM317/337 power supply - and it works, giving proper voltage, etc. however when I start it under load (approx. 300mA per regulator) using a switch, the LM337 goes into some sort of protection (audible buzz), but when I start the circuit under load using on/off switch on my laboratory power supply (I think the input voltage is rising then slower) the LM337 works as normal. I heard that when the LM317 is starting as first, then such effect may occur (but I don’t know anything about this). What would be your first suggestion in solving this problem?"
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
\n
I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
\n
I’m thinking of paralleling a 16v winding on each transformer, doing the same with an 8v winding and putting the two in series to give the 24v. However, that leaves two 16v windings and two 8v windings left unused.\n
\n
Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
\n
Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
\n
I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
\n
I’m thinking of paralleling a 16v winding on each transformer, doing the same with an 8v winding and putting the two in series to give the 24v. However, that leaves two 16v windings and two 8v windings left unused.\n
\n
Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
\n
Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
\n
I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
\n
I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
\n
I’m thinking of paralleling a 16v winding on each transformer, doing the same with an 8v winding and putting the two in series to give the 24v. However, that leaves two 16v windings and two 8v windings left unused.\n
\n
Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
\n
Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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