| 1 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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| 2 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2490
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 3 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2490
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Show voter details
|
| 4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2490
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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Show voter details
|
| 5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
|
| 7 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
|
| 8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
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Rules\n
-----\n
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I had an old USB Oscilloscope (StingRay), it's 20+ years old now.\n
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Bought a OWON HDS242 with the hope that I could view some stuff on it's screen, but still hook it up via USB to the computer and do some voltage data logging. It doesn't seem to work like I would like it to.\n
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Can anyone recommend a good USB Data Logger that won't break the bank?\n
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Decent bit ADC, and something that can get down to the 1us.\n
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Doesn't need to be high voltage.\n
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Cheers,
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Rules\n
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I had an old USB Oscilloscope (StingRay), it's 20+ years old now.\n
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Bought a OWON HDS242 with the hope that I could view some stuff on it's screen, but still hook it up via USB to the computer and do some voltage data logging. It doesn't seem to work like I would like it to.\n
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Can anyone recommend a good USB Data Logger that won't break the bank?\n
\n
Decent bit ADC, and something that can get down to the 1us.\n
\n
Doesn't need to be high voltage.\n
\n
Cheers,
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I had an old USB Oscilloscope (StingRay), it's 20+ years old now.\n
\n
Bought a OWON HDS242 with the hope that I could view some stuff on it's screen, but still hook it up via USB to the computer and do some voltage data logging. It doesn't seem to work like I would like it to.\n
\n
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\n
Can anyone recommend a good USB Data Logger that won't break the bank?\n
\n
Decent bit ADC, and something that can get down to the 1us.\n
\n
Doesn't need to be high voltage.\n
\n
Cheers,
"""
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Show voter details
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| 13 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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The purpose of this PCB is to be small, have ok RF performance, and use USB as main power-source and interface. (Off course it has UART if USB is not available) this is just a somewhat challenge I set myself to design a esp32 PCB with the IC without a already made module.\n
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Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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| 15 |
DENIED
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edit
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Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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| 17 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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I have to fix a slightly very stupid mistake that I’ve made.\n
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Show voter details
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| 19 |
DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I have to fix a slightly very stupid mistake that I’ve made.\n
\n
I’m trying to recreate the conductive lines of a membrane keyboard, unfortunately after trying to unglue them they got ripped off, I’ve painted 2 coats but it I’m receiving no signs of life from it.\n
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Is Liquidwire the wrong paint for the job? Maybe the circuit lines ar too long to fix? Should I try copper or silver paint?\n
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Show voter details
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| 20 |
DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I have to fix a slightly very stupid mistake that I’ve made.\n
\n
I’m trying to recreate the conductive lines of a membrane keyboard, unfortunately after trying to unglue them they got ripped off, I’ve painted 2 coats but it I’m receiving no signs of life from it.\n
\n
Is Liquidwire the wrong paint for the job? Maybe the circuit lines ar too long to fix? Should I try copper or silver paint?\n
\n
I’ve read online that shaking the pain is not enough and that I should also stirr it.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1584
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
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| 25 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1528
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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+body: """
My project is a “breathing” white 12v LED strip controlled by an esp32 on a dev board, and switched with an IFLZ44N mosfet.\n
\n
In my video you can see it working but also hear the power supply complaining.\n
\n
I’m using the LEDC Arduino library which allows me to select the frequency and resolution for PWM.\n
\n
If I set the frequency too low the whine is extreme, but at this setting it’s the best I’ve been able to achieve, which is about 9000Hz. Unfortunately you can still hear the sound from across the room!\n
\n
It is a cheapo solid state power supply that claims it can output 12v up to 25A. I tried my desktop supply and it emits some whine too, so I don’t think replacing the power will totally fix this.\n
\n
Is there a technique for tuning the frequency or even just masking it somehow?
"""
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| 27 |
DENIED
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| 28 |
DENIED
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Rules\n
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My project is a “breathing” white 12v LED strip controlled by an esp32 on a dev board, and switched with an IFLZ44N mosfet.\n
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In my video you can see it working but also hear the power supply complaining.\n
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I’m using the LEDC Arduino library which allows me to select the frequency and resolution for PWM.\n
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If I set the frequency too low the whine is extreme, but at this setting it’s the best I’ve been able to achieve, which is about 9000Hz. Unfortunately you can still hear the sound from across the room!\n
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| 29 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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| 31 |
DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: [pixelfed](https://pixelfed.social/p/Tanka/611711663807628749)\n
\n
Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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DENIED
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The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: [pixelfed](https://pixelfed.social/p/Tanka/611711663807628749)\n
\n
Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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+title: "SOLVED. Identification of angled snapin terminals on AC inverter filter cap"
+url: "https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/d0c67ded-d305-4a19-823b-660e66aaeba4.webp"
+body: """
Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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| 37 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1728
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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4: Be safe.\n
\n
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+url: "https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/pictrs/image/d0e1f5f0-4175-4566-9a20-da6bf4f73987.webp"
+body: """
Hi,\n
\n
I’m looking for some help in a field that is super technical and I don’t fully understand.\n
\n
I’m planning on using a bunch of these seeed studio Esp modules for some home automation projects, especially because they have a lipo battery charger making it great for portable stuff.\n
\n
The thing is the the ESP32s have U.FL SMD antenna connectors. Most of the antennas that you can buy with U.FL connections while are reasonably small, come with 50-150mm leads, which sort of makes the small size of the module a little less valid.\n
\n
What I’d like to do is get a female U.FL SMD connector and make a small daugherboard with an 2.4GHz SMD antenna on it, for instance a [Janson 2450AT42B100](https://www.johansontechnology.com/datasheets/2450AT42B100/2450AT42B100.pdf) or a [Molex 479480001](https://tools.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-47948-001-001.pdf).\n
\n
They go over the circuit board requirements quite thoroughly so I don’t think designing it will be too difficult, but what I don’t know is, they say that you need impedance matching on the circuit, and I see that there appears to be something that looks like it on the ESP circuit diagram, but I’m not actually sure if it is or not:\n
\n
You can see it in the middle near the bottom of the diagram here: [Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH](https://files.seeedstudio.com/wiki/XIAO_WiFi/Resources/Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH.pdf)\n
\n
**So my questions are:**\n
\n
1: Is this a dumb idea, having a direct plug-on SMD antenna?\n
\n
2: Is that an impedance matchning circuit between LNA_IN on the ESP chip and U.FL-R-SMT-1?\n
\n
3: If I can’t get a female U.FL SMD connector, would using one with a lead and shortening it to make the daughterboard able to be much closer to the connector affect anything? Do I need to ensure that the lead length matches the wavelength at all?\n
\n
Edit: Found [this](https://www.digikey.ie/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-PR-SMT2-5-1-10/2201792) SMD female U.FL, so they do exist.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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4: Be safe.\n
\n
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+slug: "Some-advice-on-creating-a-2-4-GHz-antenna-for-Seeed"
+title: "Some advice on creating a 2.4 GHz antenna for Seeed ESP32-C3"
+url: "https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/pictrs/image/d0e1f5f0-4175-4566-9a20-da6bf4f73987.webp"
+body: """
Hi,\n
\n
I’m looking for some help in a field that is super technical and I don’t fully understand.\n
\n
I’m planning on using a bunch of these seeed studio Esp modules for some home automation projects, especially because they have a lipo battery charger making it great for portable stuff.\n
\n
The thing is the the ESP32s have U.FL SMD antenna connectors. Most of the antennas that you can buy with U.FL connections while are reasonably small, come with 50-150mm leads, which sort of makes the small size of the module a little less valid.\n
\n
What I’d like to do is get a female U.FL SMD connector and make a small daugherboard with an 2.4GHz SMD antenna on it, for instance a [Janson 2450AT42B100](https://www.johansontechnology.com/datasheets/2450AT42B100/2450AT42B100.pdf) or a [Molex 479480001](https://tools.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-47948-001-001.pdf).\n
\n
They go over the circuit board requirements quite thoroughly so I don’t think designing it will be too difficult, but what I don’t know is, they say that you need impedance matching on the circuit, and I see that there appears to be something that looks like it on the ESP circuit diagram, but I’m not actually sure if it is or not:\n
\n
You can see it in the middle near the bottom of the diagram here: [Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH](https://files.seeedstudio.com/wiki/XIAO_WiFi/Resources/Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH.pdf)\n
\n
**So my questions are:**\n
\n
1: Is this a dumb idea, having a direct plug-on SMD antenna?\n
\n
2: Is that an impedance matchning circuit between LNA_IN on the ESP chip and U.FL-R-SMT-1?\n
\n
3: If I can’t get a female U.FL SMD connector, would using one with a lead and shortening it to make the daughterboard able to be much closer to the connector affect anything? Do I need to ensure that the lead length matches the wavelength at all?\n
\n
Edit: Found [this](https://www.digikey.ie/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-PR-SMT2-5-1-10/2201792) SMD female U.FL, so they do exist.
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
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Rules\n
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+url: "https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/pictrs/image/d0e1f5f0-4175-4566-9a20-da6bf4f73987.webp"
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Hi,\n
\n
I’m looking for some help in a field that is super technical and I don’t fully understand.\n
\n
I’m planning on using a bunch of these seeed studio Esp modules for some home automation projects, especially because they have a lipo battery charger making it great for portable stuff.\n
\n
The thing is the the ESP32s have U.FL SMD antenna connectors. Most of the antennas that you can buy with U.FL connections while are reasonably small, come with 50-150mm leads, which sort of makes the small size of the module a little less valid.\n
\n
What I’d like to do is get a female U.FL SMD connector and make a small daugherboard with an 2.4GHz SMD antenna on it, for instance a [Janson 2450AT42B100](https://www.johansontechnology.com/datasheets/2450AT42B100/2450AT42B100.pdf) or a [Molex 479480001](https://tools.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-47948-001-001.pdf).\n
\n
They go over the circuit board requirements quite thoroughly so I don’t think designing it will be too difficult, but what I don’t know is, they say that you need impedance matching on the circuit, and I see that there appears to be something that looks like it on the ESP circuit diagram, but I’m not actually sure if it is or not:\n
\n
You can see it in the middle near the bottom of the diagram here: [Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH](https://files.seeedstudio.com/wiki/XIAO_WiFi/Resources/Seeeduino-XIAO-ESP32C3-SCH.pdf)\n
\n
**So my questions are:**\n
\n
1: Is this a dumb idea, having a direct plug-on SMD antenna?\n
\n
2: Is that an impedance matchning circuit between LNA_IN on the ESP chip and U.FL-R-SMT-1?\n
\n
3: If I can’t get a female U.FL SMD connector, would using one with a lead and shortening it to make the daughterboard able to be much closer to the connector affect anything? Do I need to ensure that the lead length matches the wavelength at all?\n
\n
Edit: Found [this](https://www.digikey.ie/en/products/detail/hirose-electric-co-ltd/U-FL-PR-SMT2-5-1-10/2201792) SMD female U.FL, so they do exist.
"""
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| 41 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1717
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Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
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Show voter details
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| 44 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1717
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Rules\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
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Show voter details
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| 45 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 46 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 47 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 49 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2364
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2372 …}
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Rules\n
-----\n
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
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DENIED
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
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Show voter details
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| 52 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I'm currently looking into various DC DC converters and was confused that the Meanwell DDR-60 series only shows a typical rating but says nothing about the efficiency at idle. From AC/DC converters I'm used to have a curve that starts at idle and maybe 70% and goes to 100% load, having the peak at ninetee something.\n
\n
(Edit: link goes directly to the PDF)
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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DENIED
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i can’t find ANYWHERE this ic chip, not even in chinese online stores. code is FMM862, laptop model is a Gateway GWTN141-10. it can also be another one that works. thanks in advance.\n
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| 60 |
DENIED
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moderate
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| 61 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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The scope is a Sencore PS148A and the generator is a Heathkit SG-1271.
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|
| 63 |
DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I’ve got an old oscilloscope and a function generator that I’m trying to use to play around and get more familiar with this kinda stuff. I’m mostly new to electronics (especially analog ones) and I’m having a hard time getting them setup properly.\n
\n
Both devices turn on and the controls seemingly work, but I never get anything more than a flat line or random noise on the scope.\n
\n
Any help would be appreciated!\n
\n
The scope is a Sencore PS148A and the generator is a Heathkit SG-1271.
"""
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I’ve got an old oscilloscope and a function generator that I’m trying to use to play around and get more familiar with this kinda stuff. I’m mostly new to electronics (especially analog ones) and I’m having a hard time getting them setup properly.\n
\n
Both devices turn on and the controls seemingly work, but I never get anything more than a flat line or random noise on the scope.\n
\n
Any help would be appreciated!\n
\n
The scope is a Sencore PS148A and the generator is a Heathkit SG-1271.
"""
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\n
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\n
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Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2084
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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+slug: "SOLVED-A-pull-up-resistor-increases-the-low-side-of-a"
+title: "[SOLVED] A pull-up resistor increases the low side of a signal, how can I counteract it?"
+url: "https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/670924/107963"
+body: """
Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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Rules\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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