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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
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date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
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edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
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date: 2023-07-11 22:59:00.0 +02:00
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "On a KISS basis - I tend to just use a bimetallic switch or omit the temperature control and just run the fan from power up. It’s possible for a processor to suffer some non-handled exception where it no longer executes the temperature management routine."
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date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-13 06:46:13.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
4 |
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moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
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+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 17
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date: 2023-07-11 22:59:00.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "On a KISS basis - I tend to just use a bimetallic switch or omit the temperature control and just run the fan from power up. It’s possible for a processor to suffer some non-handled exception where it no longer executes the temperature management routine."
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date: 2023-07-13 06:46:13.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
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DENIED
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6 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-11 22:59:00.0 +02:00
}
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689223573 {#2551
date: 2023-07-13 06:46:13.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689040284 {#2549
date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "On a KISS basis - I tend to just use a bimetallic switch or omit the temperature control and just run the fan from power up. It’s possible for a processor to suffer some non-handled exception where it no longer executes the temperature management routine."
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"@Machinist@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2246 …}
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+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689070486 {#2244
date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 10733
} |
|
Show voter details
|
7 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 17
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date: 2023-07-11 22:59:00.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2572 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2579 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2575 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2578 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2581 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2583 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254}
]
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-titleTs: "'check':5 'fan':2 'saniti':4 'small':1 'switch':3"
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1689126684
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/1328894"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689223573 {#2551
date: 2023-07-13 06:46:13.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689040284 {#2549
date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "On a KISS basis - I tend to just use a bimetallic switch or omit the temperature control and just run the fan from power up. It’s possible for a processor to suffer some non-handled exception where it no longer executes the temperature management routine."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
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"@Machinist@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2246 …}
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689070486 {#2244
date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 10733
} |
|
Show voter details
|
8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2250
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2554 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2574 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "Small-fan-switch-sanity-check"
+title: "Small fan switch sanity check."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/061d3d3b-64a0-4dd8-bbd2-6f4a7226af3c.jpeg"
+body: """
Circuit is for controlling the fan on a Raspberry Pi, just on/off according to temp, no PWM. Not sure about the diode as it has a .7V drop and it’s a tiny brushless DC motor. No markings on the fan so I measured the current with a multimeter when hooking it up to a USB charger. Circuit was adapted from [here](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python) using what I have on hand.\n
\n
Suggestions? Any advice is greatly appreciated!\n
\n
*EDIT: Confirmed, this circuit works on a Raspberry Pi 4. Base was wired to GPIO 17 and manually tested using commands:\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dh\n
\n
raspi-gpio set 17 op dl\n
\n
I didn’t use a breadboard, just hack-n-slash with the wires coming out of the fan, the leads on the thru hole components, a jumper connected to gpio 17 as a socket for the base/resistor lead, and heat shrink tubing for insulation. Folded it up as I closed the housing. Case combo including heatsinks and fan [here](https://a.co/d/bNQ5u4f).
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 17
+favouriteCount: 36
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date: 2023-07-11 22:59:00.0 +02:00
}
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+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2579 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2575 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2578 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2581 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2583 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2254}
]
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-titleTs: "'check':5 'fan':2 'saniti':4 'small':1 'switch':3"
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
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+ranking: 1689126684
+visibility: "visible "
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689223573 {#2551
date: 2023-07-13 06:46:13.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689040284 {#2549
date: 2023-07-11 03:51:24.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "On a KISS basis - I tend to just use a bimetallic switch or omit the temperature control and just run the fan from power up. It’s possible for a processor to suffer some non-handled exception where it no longer executes the temperature management routine."
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
}
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"@Machinist@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2246 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2248 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2247 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2256 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2284 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2286 …}
-id: 10733
-bodyTs: "'basi':4 'bimetal':11 'control':17 'except':38 'execut':43 'fan':22 'handl':37 'kiss':3 'longer':42 'manag':46 'non':36 'non-handl':35 'omit':14 'possibl':28 'power':24 'processor':31 'routin':47 'run':20 'suffer':33 'switch':12 'temperatur':16,45 'tend':6 'use':9"
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1689070486 {#2244
date: 2023-07-11 12:14:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 10733
} |
|
Show voter details
|
9 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2539 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 13
+favouriteCount: 10
+score: 0
+isAdult: false
+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1689806555 {#2585
date: 2023-07-20 00:42:35.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2590 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2593 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2595 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2597 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2599 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2601 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688970724 {#2262
date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
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"@CorrodedCranium@lemmy.fmhy.ml"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2242 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2240 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2234 …}
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688946240 {#2555
date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
11 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2539 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 13
+favouriteCount: 10
+score: 0
+isAdult: false
+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1689806555 {#2585
date: 2023-07-20 00:42:35.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2590 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2593 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2595 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2597 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2599 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2601 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688970724 {#2262
date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
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"@CorrodedCranium@lemmy.fmhy.ml"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2242 …}
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
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]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688946240 {#2555
date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
12 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2539 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
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+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-20 00:42:35.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
13 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
14 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2599 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264}
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date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
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"@CorrodedCranium@lemmy.fmhy.ml"
]
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9332
} |
|
Show voter details
|
15 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2539 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
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}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2590 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264}
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-id: 950
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date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
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"@CorrodedCranium@lemmy.fmhy.ml"
]
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9332
} |
|
Show voter details
|
16 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2264
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2235
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2539 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "What-tip-should-I-be-using-to-solder-wires-together"
+title: "What tip should I be using to solder wires together?"
+url: null
+body: """
Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
\n
When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
\n
I remember in the past soldering copper lines together from an appliance with no issue so I don’t think I’m doing anything wrong in terms of technique but who knows?
"""
+type: "article"
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}
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-id: 950
-titleTs: "'solder':8 'tip':2 'togeth':10 'use':6 'wire':9"
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date: 2023-07-10 01:44:00.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I suggest that you give details of the iron (and tip) and solder that you are using and a close up photo of the wires that are being problematic.\n
\n
The iron temperature control may be faulty and the iron just not getting to soldering temperatures. Or you may have it set too low.\n
\n
The thermal mass of typical USB wires is so low that, if the solder actually melts freely at the tip end when not soldering anything, it should do so when soldering these wires.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
}
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"@CorrodedCranium@lemmy.fmhy.ml"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2242 …}
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date: 2023-07-10 08:32:04.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
17 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
18 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2211
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2540 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Electronics-for-toddlers"
+title: "Electronics for toddlers?"
+url: null
+body: """
Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: "Get them working on their mathematic skills, instead. You can give them a really good head start - mine could solve simple differential equations at age 11."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688910583 {#2209
date: 2023-07-09 15:49:43.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-09 14:11:46.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
19 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2211
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2540 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Electronics-for-toddlers"
+title: "Electronics for toddlers?"
+url: null
+body: """
Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
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20 |
DENIED
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
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Thanks!
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21 |
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Show voter details
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
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Thanks!
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23 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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24 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2200
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Do any of you have experienced good products for tinkering together with a 3 year old?\n
\n
I thought about something like a giant breadboard with simple connectors to switch on a light or play a sound or something.\n
\n
It doesn’t have to be too fancy, just sturdy and safe to play together with an adult.\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
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25 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
|
null |
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Show voter details
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26 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
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I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
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Show voter details
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27 |
DENIED
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2632 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2634 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2636 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2638 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9179
}
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688847252 {#2609
date: 2023-07-08 22:14:12.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
28 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2588 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+slug: "I-tried-to-make-an-electromagnet-at-home-but-when"
+title: "I tried to make an electromagnet at home but when I connect the two copper wires to a 1.5V battery it keeps short circuiting and heating up. Also it doesn't attract other nails."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ed58183e-0241-4348-a155-bf47b3f64b26.jpeg"
+body: "This is my electromagnet."
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-09 03:38:05.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2628 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2636 …}
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+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
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"@SzuperTNTAkos@lemmy.world"
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date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
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}
]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688847252 {#2609
date: 2023-07-08 22:14:12.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
29 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
30 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2588 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2626 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "I-tried-to-make-an-electromagnet-at-home-but-when"
+title: "I tried to make an electromagnet at home but when I connect the two copper wires to a 1.5V battery it keeps short circuiting and heating up. Also it doesn't attract other nails."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ed58183e-0241-4348-a155-bf47b3f64b26.jpeg"
+body: "This is my electromagnet."
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-09 03:38:05.0 +02:00
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2638 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
-id: 934
-titleTs: "'1.5':19 'also':29 'attract':33 'batteri':21 'circuit':25 'connect':12 'copper':15 'doesn':31 'electromagnet':6 'heat':27 'home':8 'keep':23 'make':4 'nail':35 'short':24 'tri':2 'two':14 'v':20 'wire':16"
-bodyTs: "'electromagnet':4"
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date: 2023-07-08 22:14:12.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 3
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688852251 {#2217
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@SzuperTNTAkos@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2195 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2197 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2206 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2201 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2212 …}
-id: 9179
-bodyTs: "'adjac':43 'along':55 'around':27,115 'away':152 'bit':136 'copper':75,92,113 'd':2 'end':123,146 'give':141 'hold':101 'insul':19,36 'keep':82,127 'know':98 'littl':129 'nail':24,29,103,155 'need':17,34 'oh':89 'one':7,122 'paper':26,57 'peel':4 'practic':138 'pull':120,151 'result':147 'singl':110 'sleev':58 'space':51 'straight':145 'straighten':91 'strand':8 'suggest':3 'tension':130 'touch':47,86 'trick':63,100 'turn':44,53,84,111 'twine':67,80 'use':13,78 'vice':106 'wind':70 'wire':11,21,38,76,93,114,126,150 'wrap':25,108"
+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688852251 {#2196
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9179
} |
|
Show voter details
|
31 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2588 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2626 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "I-tried-to-make-an-electromagnet-at-home-but-when"
+title: "I tried to make an electromagnet at home but when I connect the two copper wires to a 1.5V battery it keeps short circuiting and heating up. Also it doesn't attract other nails."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ed58183e-0241-4348-a155-bf47b3f64b26.jpeg"
+body: "This is my electromagnet."
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 11
+favouriteCount: 14
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-09 03:38:05.0 +02:00
}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2636 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2638 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
-id: 934
-titleTs: "'1.5':19 'also':29 'attract':33 'batteri':21 'circuit':25 'connect':12 'copper':15 'doesn':31 'electromagnet':6 'heat':27 'home':8 'keep':23 'make':4 'nail':35 'short':24 'tri':2 'two':14 'v':20 'wire':16"
-bodyTs: "'electromagnet':4"
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+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/1211410"
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date: 2023-07-08 22:14:12.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 3
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688852251 {#2217
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@SzuperTNTAkos@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2195 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2197 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2201 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2203 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2212 …}
-id: 9179
-bodyTs: "'adjac':43 'along':55 'around':27,115 'away':152 'bit':136 'copper':75,92,113 'd':2 'end':123,146 'give':141 'hold':101 'insul':19,36 'keep':82,127 'know':98 'littl':129 'nail':24,29,103,155 'need':17,34 'oh':89 'one':7,122 'paper':26,57 'peel':4 'practic':138 'pull':120,151 'result':147 'singl':110 'sleev':58 'space':51 'straight':145 'straighten':91 'strand':8 'suggest':3 'tension':130 'touch':47,86 'trick':63,100 'turn':44,53,84,111 'twine':67,80 'use':13,78 'vice':106 'wind':70 'wire':11,21,38,76,93,114,126,150 'wrap':25,108"
+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688852251 {#2196
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9179
} |
|
Show voter details
|
32 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2194
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2588 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2626 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2573 …}
+slug: "I-tried-to-make-an-electromagnet-at-home-but-when"
+title: "I tried to make an electromagnet at home but when I connect the two copper wires to a 1.5V battery it keeps short circuiting and heating up. Also it doesn't attract other nails."
+url: "https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/ed58183e-0241-4348-a155-bf47b3f64b26.jpeg"
+body: "This is my electromagnet."
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-09 03:38:05.0 +02:00
}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2636 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2638 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2199}
]
-id: 934
-titleTs: "'1.5':19 'also':29 'attract':33 'batteri':21 'circuit':25 'connect':12 'copper':15 'doesn':31 'electromagnet':6 'heat':27 'home':8 'keep':23 'make':4 'nail':35 'short':24 'tri':2 'two':14 'v':20 'wire':16"
-bodyTs: "'electromagnet':4"
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/1211410"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688847252 {#2609
date: 2023-07-08 22:14:12.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’d suggest peeling off just one strand of the wire and use that. You will need to insulate the wire from the nail - Wrapping paper around the nail will do. You will need to insulate the wire from itself, so that adjacent turns don’t touch. You can just space the turns out along the paper sleeve. That should do the trick. If you have twine, you can wind that on with the copper wire and use the twine to keep the turns from touching each other.\n
\n
Oh to straighten copper wire, if you don’t know this trick - hold your nail in a vice and wrap a single turn of copper wire around it. If you then pull on one end of the wire, keeping a little tension on the other - with a bit of practice it will give you a very straight end result, as the wire pulls away from the nail.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 3
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688852251 {#2217
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@SzuperTNTAkos@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2195 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2197 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2206 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2201 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2203 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2212 …}
-id: 9179
-bodyTs: "'adjac':43 'along':55 'around':27,115 'away':152 'bit':136 'copper':75,92,113 'd':2 'end':123,146 'give':141 'hold':101 'insul':19,36 'keep':82,127 'know':98 'littl':129 'nail':24,29,103,155 'need':17,34 'oh':89 'one':7,122 'paper':26,57 'peel':4 'practic':138 'pull':120,151 'result':147 'singl':110 'sleev':58 'space':51 'straight':145 'straighten':91 'strand':8 'suggest':3 'tension':130 'touch':47,86 'trick':63,100 'turn':44,53,84,111 'twine':67,80 'use':13,78 'vice':106 'wind':70 'wire':11,21,38,76,93,114,126,150 'wrap':25,108"
+ranking: 0
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/795319"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688852251 {#2196
date: 2023-07-08 23:37:31.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9179
} |
|
Show voter details
|
33 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
34 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
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date: 2023-07-09 15:10:16.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2647 …}
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+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2653 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2655 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688808766 {#2295
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
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"@macusking@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-07 22:37:37.0 +02:00
}
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
35 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 6
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date: 2023-07-09 15:10:16.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
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+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
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]
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date: 2023-07-07 22:37:37.0 +02:00
}
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
36 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-09 15:10:16.0 +02:00
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
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]
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688762257 {#2627
date: 2023-07-07 22:37:37.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
37 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
38 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
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…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
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+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688808766 {#2281
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9137
} |
|
Show voter details
|
39 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 6
+favouriteCount: 11
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-09 15:10:16.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2647 …}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283}
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date: 2023-07-07 22:37:37.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
+lang: "en"
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+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688808766 {#2295
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
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"@macusking@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2282 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2276 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2275 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2261 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2218 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2221 …}
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+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/771463"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688808766 {#2281
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9137
} |
|
Show voter details
|
40 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2280
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2606 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 6
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date: 2023-07-09 15:10:16.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2647 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2649 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2651 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2653 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2655 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2657 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2283}
]
-id: 926
-titleTs: "'ac':7 'capacitor':10 'could':2 'dc':4 'oscil':5 'produc':6"
-bodyTs: "'+10':8 '+5':24,95 '-5':22,96 '0v':7 '10v':89 'ac':26,35,42,59 'across':69 'capacit':60 'capacitor':18,71,100 'case':53 'chang':73 'circuit':51,80 'compon':38 'current':14 'dc':10,37,66,90 'dynam':48 'give':85 'ground':82 'half':94 'heard':33 'hello':1 'howev':62 'let':40 'never':72 'oper':57 'oscil':4,11,55,64 'pass':15,43 'polar':74 'produc':20 'reactanc':61 'remov':36 'resistor':29 'side':78 'sinc':75 'split':92 'thank':101 'understand':46 'v':9,23,25 've':31 'volt':97 'voltag':68"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688823757
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/558897"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688762257 {#2627
date: 2023-07-07 22:37:37.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
The standard way of looking at this is to consider a capacitor-resistor series combination going to ground. Connect a 10v (wrt ground) supply to the capacitor and the voltage across the resistor rises to +10v, then decays. Now connect that capacitor to ground and that same resistor gets -10v across it, which then decays. Whatever is connected to the capacitor “top” terminal has to be able to sink current as well as source it.\n
\n
That’s what generators in simulators do - they have zero internal impedance (usually). They sink currents as well as source them.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688808766 {#2295
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@macusking@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2282 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2276 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2275 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2261 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2218 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2221 …}
-id: 9137
-bodyTs: "'+10':37 '-10':52 '10v':22 'abl':70 'across':32,54 'capacitor':13,28,44,64 'capacitor-resistor':12 'combin':16 'connect':20,42,61 'consid':10 'current':73,94 'decay':40,58 'generat':82 'get':51 'go':17 'ground':19,24,46 'imped':90 'intern':89 'look':5 'resistor':14,34,50 'rise':35 'seri':15 'simul':84 'sink':72,93 'sourc':77,98 'standard':2 'suppli':25 'termin':66 'top':65 'usual':91 'v':38,53 'voltag':31 'way':3 'well':75,96 'whatev':59 'wrt':23 'zero':88"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/771463"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688808766 {#2281
date: 2023-07-08 11:32:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9137
} |
|
Show voter details
|
41 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
42 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2524 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
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+commentCount: 5
+favouriteCount: 3
+score: 0
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+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1688760473 {#2659
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2624 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2666 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2668 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2670 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2672 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2674 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688760474 {#2139
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:54.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@DeltaBlast@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2223 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2216 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2213 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2230 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2232 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2228 …}
-id: 8926
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+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/733523"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688736480 {#2215
date: 2023-07-07 15:28:00.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8926
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2308 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224}
+body: "Lots of people use them for something similar. Obviously, the situation changes once the lines are power lines and not signal lines. If you can stabilise the result and add strain relief."
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date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
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"@DeltaBlast@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2305 …}
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/748879"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688760473 {#2307
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9035
}
]
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-titleTs: "'connector':3 'help':1 'identifi':2"
-bodyTs: "'/pictrs/image/1eaec22c-133d-47e1-b9e2-a21aa584619b.jpeg)':124 '/products/':107 '/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/)':111 '/vr-connector':108 'aim':16 'anyth':53 'better':102 'bought':4 'buy':99 'buy/make':60 'cabl':43,63 'connect':46 'connector':80,93 'discuss.tchncs.de':123 'discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1eaec22c-133d-47e1-b9e2-a21aa584619b.jpeg)':122 'edit':104 'even':101 'extens':62 'find':72,89 'front':19 'geberit':6 'help':87 'hi':1 'hope':84 'idea':68 'instal':24 'like':114 'link':100 'look':58,113 'm':57,83 'motion':11,39 'open':29 'pic':77 'pitch':119 'seem':120 'sensor':12,40 'short':50 'shower':7 'sideway':25 'socket':116 'someon':96 'take':36 'thank':103 'thing':31 'toilet':22 'toilet/bidet':8 'took':76 'type':91 've':28 'wrong':121 'www.jst.com':106,110 'www.jst.com/products/':105 'www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/)':109"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
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+ranking: 1688764486
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/547368"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688732486 {#2646
date: 2023-07-07 14:21:26.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
43 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2524 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 5
+favouriteCount: 3
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2624 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2666 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2668 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2670 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2672 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2674 …}
+children: [
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688760474 {#2139
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:54.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@DeltaBlast@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2223 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2216 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2213 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2230 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2232 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2228 …}
-id: 8926
-bodyTs: "'ad':11,107 'add':26 'addit':109 'also':83 'analyser/sniffer':92 'and/or':96 'assum':1 'cabl':5,21,30 'confess':70 'connector':14 'consid':10 'convert':117 'could':9 'data':99 'differ':114 'done':73 'easi':86 'even':111 'extens':29,47,59 'femal':45 'idc':13 'inde':35 'isn':60 'link':32 'longer':65 'male':42 'mod':77 'modifi':97 'need':62,68 'one':37,66 'output':119 'protocol':91 'quit':84 'reloc':55 'remov':50 'ribbon':4 'sensor':110 'sent':102 'sever':78 'side':15,17 'slice':19 'someth':121 'sort':75 'standard':7,28 'stick':89 'suitabl':122 'thing':53 'time':79 'two':12,34,40,95 'type':115 'way':87,105"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/733523"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688736480 {#2215
date: 2023-07-07 15:28:00.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8926
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2308 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224}
+body: "Lots of people use them for something similar. Obviously, the situation changes once the lines are power lines and not signal lines. If you can stabilise the result and add strain relief."
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688760473 {#2310
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@DeltaBlast@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2305 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2303 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2317 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2313 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2292 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2290 …}
-id: 9035
-bodyTs: "'add':30 'chang':12 'line':15,18,22 'lot':1 'obvious':9 'peopl':3 'power':17 'relief':32 'result':28 'signal':21 'similar':8 'situat':11 'someth':7 'stabilis':26 'strain':31 'use':4"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/748879"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688760473 {#2307
date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9035
}
]
-id: 914
-titleTs: "'connector':3 'help':1 'identifi':2"
-bodyTs: "'/pictrs/image/1eaec22c-133d-47e1-b9e2-a21aa584619b.jpeg)':124 '/products/':107 '/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/)':111 '/vr-connector':108 'aim':16 'anyth':53 'better':102 'bought':4 'buy':99 'buy/make':60 'cabl':43,63 'connect':46 'connector':80,93 'discuss.tchncs.de':123 'discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1eaec22c-133d-47e1-b9e2-a21aa584619b.jpeg)':122 'edit':104 'even':101 'extens':62 'find':72,89 'front':19 'geberit':6 'help':87 'hi':1 'hope':84 'idea':68 'instal':24 'like':114 'link':100 'look':58,113 'm':57,83 'motion':11,39 'open':29 'pic':77 'pitch':119 'seem':120 'sensor':12,40 'short':50 'shower':7 'sideway':25 'socket':116 'someon':96 'take':36 'thank':103 'thing':31 'toilet':22 'toilet/bidet':8 'took':76 'type':91 've':28 'wrong':121 'www.jst.com':106,110 'www.jst.com/products/':105 'www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/)':109"
+cross: false
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+ranking: 1688764486
+visibility: "visible "
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688732486 {#2646
date: 2023-07-07 14:21:26.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
44 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2524 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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Show voter details
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45 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
46 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
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Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
47 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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…2
}
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Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
48 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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Show voter details
|
49 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2524 …}
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+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
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+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
51 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2198
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
+title: "Help identifying connector"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
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+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
52 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2306
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+body: """
Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2224
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: null
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+body: """
Assuming that the ribbon cable is standard - you could consider adding TWO IDC connectors, side by side. Then slice the cable through between them. Then add a standard extension cable to link the two. Indeed if one of the two is male, the other female - the extension can be removed if the thing is relocated to where the extension isn’t needed - or a longer one is needed.\n
\n
I confess to having done this sort of mod several times, myself. It’s also quite an easy way of sticking a protocol analyser/sniffer between the two and/or modifying the data that is sent on its way. Or adding an additional sensor (even of a different type) and converting its output to something suitable.
"""
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…2
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date: 2023-07-07 22:07:53.0 +02:00
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+"title": 9035
} |
|
Show voter details
|
53 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
54 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
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+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 12:45:18.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
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+body: "I think that it is the same stuff, just will propellant added in the aerosol. A small squeezy bottle with a needle is better if you have live stuff nearby - but you can always fill one from an aerosol"
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
55 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
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}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688693440 {#2643
date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
56 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2311 …}
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+body: "I think that it is the same stuff, just will propellant added in the aerosol. A small squeezy bottle with a needle is better if you have live stuff nearby - but you can always fill one from an aerosol"
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
57 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
58 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2113
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
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+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 03:31:12.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-07-07 12:45:18.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8878
} |
|
Show voter details
|
59 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2113
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: true
+commentCount: 8
+favouriteCount: 12
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date: 2023-07-09 10:28:28.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2683 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2685 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2687 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2689 …}
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2113}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2311 …}
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+body: "I think that it is the same stuff, just will propellant added in the aerosol. A small squeezy bottle with a needle is better if you have live stuff nearby - but you can always fill one from an aerosol"
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"@plasticmanufacturing@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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date: 2023-07-07 03:31:12.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-07-07 12:45:18.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8878
} |
|
Show voter details
|
60 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2113
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
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…2
}
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date: 2023-07-07 12:45:18.0 +02:00
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+"title": 8878
} |
|
Show voter details
|
61 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
62 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 03:31:12.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688760022 {#2189
date: 2023-07-07 22:00:22.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9034
} |
|
Show voter details
|
63 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2681 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
+type: "image"
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date: 2023-07-07 12:45:18.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:31:12.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688760022 {#2189
date: 2023-07-07 22:00:22.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9034
} |
|
Show voter details
|
64 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2123
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2509 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "How-to-remove-press-fit-connectors"
+title: "How to remove press fit connectors"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1b69ec8e-83a8-4fcb-9a75-149dbf1ea8b9.jpeg"
+body: """
I’m trying to repair an arcade PCB with intermittent audio. The board on top is the audio board, the bottom board is the everything else.\n
\n
There is a short or poor connection somewhere in this 96 pin DIN, press-fit connector.\n
\n
I have OEM replacements, and would like to install new ones, but really have no idea how to do it properly (if you can even do it properly). My first thought was to do the following:\n
\n
- Physically cut the pressfit connection to remove the plastic housings\n
- individually remove each cut pin from the PCB\n
- 3D print a “frame” around the connector area to minimize PCB flex, and use an arbor press to insert the press-fit connector\n
\n
If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears!
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2299}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:31:12.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-07 03:30:40.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688760022 {#2189
date: 2023-07-07 22:00:22.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 9034
} |
|
Show voter details
|
65 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
66 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2101
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2662 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Fence-tester-which-resistors"
+title: "Fence tester - which resistors?"
+url: null
+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
+type: "article"
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+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 3
+favouriteCount: 8
+score: 0
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date: 2023-07-07 12:41:29.0 +02:00
}
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2111
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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]
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+ranking: 1688671166
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688633666 {#2682
date: 2023-07-06 10:54:26.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
67 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2101
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+slug: "Fence-tester-which-resistors"
+title: "Fence tester - which resistors?"
+url: null
+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
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You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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Show voter details
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2101
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+slug: "Fence-tester-which-resistors"
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+url: null
+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
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You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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69 |
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2111
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+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
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You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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} |
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Show voter details
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71 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2111
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+slug: "Fence-tester-which-resistors"
+title: "Fence tester - which resistors?"
+url: null
+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
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}
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You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 12:41:29.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
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72 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2111
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+url: null
+body: "I lost my electric fence tester, probably the pigs ate it. But I opened it once to resolder the earth wire and found it’s really just a voltage divider with resistors and leds, so I can probably rebuild with stuff I have. What resistor values though? 2k to 10k V run through the fence. If any of you good people have a diagram, a formula or an idea, please help."
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}
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You could use something like this:\n
\n
\n
\n
The diodes at least provide some steps - which just LEDs and resistors don’t. The dissipation in the main series resistors will be quite something, also. (You will probably need several resistors in series, if you use standard ones, with their standard voltage limits).
"""
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+"title": 8877
} |
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
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+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
+title: "Would this circuit to use an HR202 humidity sensor actually work?"
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\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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date: 2023-07-05 21:42:36.0 +02:00
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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date: 2023-07-05 20:41:41.0 +02:00
}
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…2
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Show voter details
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75 |
DENIED
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
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\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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date: 2023-07-05 21:42:36.0 +02:00
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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date: 2023-07-05 20:41:41.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
76 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
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+url: null
+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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…2
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Show voter details
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77 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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78 |
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2068
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
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+title: "Would this circuit to use an HR202 humidity sensor actually work?"
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+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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date: 2023-07-05 21:42:36.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
|
79 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2068
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+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
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+url: null
+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
80 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2068
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
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\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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Show voter details
|
81 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
82 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
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+url: null
+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 22:25:30.0 +02:00
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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date: 2023-07-05 21:42:36.0 +02:00
}
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045}
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date: 2023-07-05 20:41:41.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2057 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2068}
+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688622526 {#2047
date: 2023-07-06 07:48:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8568
} |
|
Show voter details
|
83 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
+title: "Would this circuit to use an HR202 humidity sensor actually work?"
+url: null
+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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date: 2023-07-07 22:25:30.0 +02:00
}
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+image: null
+parent: null
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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date: 2023-07-07 22:25:31.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-05 21:42:36.0 +02:00
}
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045}
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date: 2023-07-05 20:41:41.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2057 …}
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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date: 2023-07-06 07:48:46.0 +02:00
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"@macusking@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688622526 {#2047
date: 2023-07-06 07:48:46.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8568
} |
|
Show voter details
|
84 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2072
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2367 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Would-this-circuit-to-use-an-HR202-humidity-sensor-actually"
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+url: null
+body: """
\n
\n
I wanna run a HR202 moisture sensor and an Arduino. Yes, I picked a HR202 to challenge myself to make it work. I already have some easier-to-use SHT40 in stock.\n
\n
This sensor can only run with AC 1.5Vpeak max. So, I’ve created this little circuit to provide AC, and I’ll only read it when the oscillator output is HIGH, so I can read it briefly at the same time with the help of Arduino’s ADC. Could this circuit work? Thank you.
"""
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+body: "I’m assuming that those "v"s are meters and not constant voltage sources. A 2.4v zener does NOT have exactly 2.4v across it. A 1.2 v supply will not be precisely 1.2v. Both will also vary with time and temperature. So, in practice there WILL be a dc component across the sensor - which will destroy it."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045}
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+body: "How I would do it is to use two digital IO pins on the processor to generate the reference square wave. Put the sensor plus a series precision resistor between them and just pull one IO pin high as the other is pulled low and then swap them. That presumes that IO pins can both source and sink IO current. Then take the junction between the two to an Analogue in pin. You get two measurements each cycle. Use a lookup table of values and interpolate between them. If you wanted more precision - add more series resistors of different values covering the range of humidity that you want to sense, going to different IO pins. So you can choose the IO pin pair that brings the centre point between sensor and resistor closest to the mid-voltage point. It’s effectively a balanced half bridge arrangement - using the precision of the resistors to determine overall measurement precision. OK it ties up several IO pins - but microcontrollers are so cheap, I’d probably just dedicate one to this sensor and that’s all that it would do."
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-id: 8568
-bodyTs: "'add':94 'analogu':70 'arrang':147 'balanc':144 'bridg':146 'bring':125 'centr':127 'cheap':170 'choos':119 'closest':133 'cover':101 'current':60 'cycl':78 'd':172 'dedic':175 'determin':155 'differ':99,113 'digit':10 'effect':142 'generat':17 'get':74 'go':111 'half':145 'high':38 'humid':105 'interpol':86 'io':11,36,52,59,114,121,164 'junction':64 'lookup':81 'low':44 'measur':76,157 'microcontrol':167 'mid':137 'mid-voltag':136 'ok':159 'one':35,176 'overal':156 'pair':123 'pin':12,37,53,72,115,122,165 'plus':25 'point':128,139 'precis':28,93,150,158 'presum':50 'probabl':173 'processor':15 'pull':34,43 'put':22 'rang':103 'refer':19 'resistor':29,97,132,153 'sens':110 'sensor':24,130,179 'seri':27,96 'sever':163 'sink':58 'sourc':56 'squar':20 'swap':47 'tabl':82 'take':62 'tie':161 'two':9,67,75 'use':8,79,148 'valu':84,100 'voltag':138 'want':91,108 'wave':21 'would':3,186"
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date: 2023-07-06 07:48:46.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
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85 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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86 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2340
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
"""
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Show voter details
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87 |
DENIED
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2340
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
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Show voter details
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88 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2340
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
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Show voter details
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89 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
90 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2334
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
"""
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Show voter details
|
91 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2334
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+title: "Help finding value of burnt resistor."
+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
+body: """
Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
92 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2334
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+url: "https://lemmy.nz/pictrs/image/153b6b3b-d238-423b-b973-57497e139956.jpeg"
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Mates bread maker stopped working so I had a look inside and saw this burned resistor.\n
\n
I’m guessing the heat changed the colors a bit so wondering if anyone has experience in reading cooked resistor values.\n
\n
I removed it from the PCB and measured it at 403 Ohms.\n
\n
Thanks for any help.
"""
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+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2740 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2742 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2744 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2746 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2748 …}
+children: [
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2334}
]
-id: 766
-titleTs: "'burnt':5 'find':2 'help':1 'resistor':6 'valu':3"
-bodyTs: "'403':48 'anyon':30 'bit':26 'bread':2 'burn':15 'chang':22 'color':24 'cook':35 'experi':32 'guess':19 'heat':21 'help':53 'insid':11 'look':10 'm':18 'maker':3 'mate':1 'measur':45 'ohm':49 'pcb':43 'read':34 'remov':39 'resistor':16,36 'saw':13 'stop':4 'thank':50 'valu':37 'wonder':28 'work':5"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688546570
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.nz/post/241611"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688460170 {#2719
date: 2023-07-04 10:42:50.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m old school. I’d reverse engineer that part of the board, work out what the resistor was doing and then choose a value, much as the original designer did.\n
\n
From that small section of the board - I’d guess that it is a resistor in the CR voltage dropper, used to power the electronics.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688581459 {#2324
date: 2023-07-05 20:24:19.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@WaltzingKea@lemmy.nz"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2341 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2337 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2339 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2159 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2135 …}
-id: 8467
-bodyTs: "'board':13,38 'choos':23 'cr':49 'd':6,40 'design':30 'dropper':51 'electron':56 'engin':8 'guess':41 'm':2 'much':26 'old':3 'origin':29 'part':10 'power':54 'resistor':18,46 'revers':7 'school':4 'section':35 'small':34 'use':52 'valu':25 'voltag':50 'work':14"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/659521"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688581459 {#2300
date: 2023-07-05 20:24:19.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8467
} |
|
Show voter details
|
93 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
94 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 8
+favouriteCount: 5
+score: 0
+isAdult: false
+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#2767
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2775 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2777 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2779 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2781 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1874
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1883 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2389 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2387 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2394 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2393 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1381 …}
-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688334675 {#1402
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1401 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1363 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1362 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2019 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2030 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2026 …}
-id: 7168
-bodyTs: "'10k':28 'ad':53 'add':71,217 'albeit':196 'amp':118,155,176 'amplifi':195 'aren':173 'attenu':147,198 'back':39 'bite':211 'break':15 'cabl':55,73 'capacit':113 'capacitor':33,220 'cascad':205 'case':103,188 'cautious':204 'channel':85 'circuit':17,92,123 'combin':48 'condit':184 'connect':13,214 'could':44 'coupl':114 'current':240 'dc':233 'direct':213 'especi':115 'essenti':236 'even':238 'ever':162 'failur':206 'fair':170 'far':158 'free':181 'gain':126,156 'gate':100 'go':38 'good':5,201,228 'ground':133 'happen':82 'hard':168 'high':125,197 'higher':159 'idea':6,229 'imped':140 'input':54,94 'lazi':36 'limit':241 'line':58 'look':8,41 'mani':175 'may':79 'method':90 'mute':89 'never':212 'nois':180 'normal':12 'open':91,122 'parallel':32 'path':131,234 'place':50 'plan':61 'possibl':244 'practic':166 'probabl':106 'provid':231 'rememb':25 'remov':150 'replic':19 'resistor':29 'see':65 'seem':23 'seri':219 'short':128,136 'side':119 'signal':110,130,144,193 'still':107 'stop':80 'switch':97 'test':171 'thus':142 'togeth':152 'transfer':111 'tri':45,76 'turn':153 'two':88 'unavoid':216 'unless':215,235 'use':63 'usual':3,226 'via':95 'wait':209 'whine':68 'would':163 'yes':224"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688384742 {#2144
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2079 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2078 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2097 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2082 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2096 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577757"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688384772 {#2022
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2033 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2028 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2012 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2013 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2035 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2036 …}
-id: 7386
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577775"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#2130
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2132 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2040 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2350 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2348 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2351 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2332 …}
-id: 8412
-bodyTs: "'good':2 'intend':6 'pun':5 'sound':1"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/651655"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#2133
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8412
}
]
-id: 699
-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
95 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
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}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
96 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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-id: 7489
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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…2
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1874
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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+tags: null
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1883 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2389 …}
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-id: 7087
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+ranking: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
} |
|
Show voter details
|
99 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
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+hasEmbed: false
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+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#2767
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2775 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2777 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2779 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2781 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 2
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688334675 {#1402
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+tags: null
+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1401 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1363 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2019 …}
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+ranking: 0
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+downVotes: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2079 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2078 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2082 …}
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2081 …}
-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577757"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688384772 {#2022
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2033 …}
+nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2028 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2013 …}
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-id: 7386
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 8412
-bodyTs: "'good':2 'intend':6 'pun':5 'sound':1"
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#2133
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8412
}
]
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-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1874
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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+mentions: [
"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1883 …}
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-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
+ranking: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
} |
|
Show voter details
|
100 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
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+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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}
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I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
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}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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+lastActive: DateTime @1688384742 {#2144
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577757"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2132 …}
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8412
}
]
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-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1401 …}
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7168
} |
|
Show voter details
|
103 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
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+visibility: "visible "
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
} |
|
Show voter details
|
104 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
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-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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-id: 7386
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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]
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7168
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
} |
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Show voter details
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105 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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106 |
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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-id: 7087
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+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7168
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+ranking: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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]
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-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7489
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
} |
|
Show voter details
|
107 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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+"title": 7489
} |
|
Show voter details
|
108 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
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}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7386
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577775"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
} |
|
Show voter details
|
111 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
+type: "article"
+lang: "en"
+isOc: false
+hasEmbed: false
+commentCount: 8
+favouriteCount: 5
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+isAdult: false
+sticky: false
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566719 {#2767
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
+mentions: null
+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
+votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2775 …}
+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2777 …}
+favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2779 …}
+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2781 …}
+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
+score: 0
+lastActive: DateTime @1688566720 {#1874
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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+notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1381 …}
-id: 7087
-bodyTs: "'actual':27 'add':8,42 'amplifi':52 'auxiliari':33 'describ':5 'disconnect':47,59 'eg':12 'extern':43 'ground':62 'headphon':10,19 'howev':35 'inde':39 'input':34,44,49,60 'jack':11,15 'm':2 'might':54 'output':14 'plug':22 'provid':32 'puzzl':3 'seem':25 'socket':16,30 'tie':57 'tri':40 'want':6,28,55 'yet':23"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1401 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2019 …}
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-id: 7168
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+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 1
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+lastActive: DateTime @1688384742 {#2144
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2079 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2082 …}
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-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 8412
-bodyTs: "'good':2 'intend':6 'pun':5 'sound':1"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#2133
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8412
}
]
-id: 699
-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
-bodyTs: "'-4':170 '/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':151 '/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':177 '/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':164 '0':46,113 '1':44 '7':331 '7645324316':421 'activ':125,141 'ad':3 'allig':311 'also':144 'amp':33,131,159,199 'anoth':347 'anyth':290,364 'attach':28,166,291 'audio':91 'aux':5,74 'b':416 'b-mpv':415 'binari':137 'blaupunkt':413 'bypass':307 'cabl':281,348,354 'car':9 'caus':195,270 'cd':14,119,419 'cd-mp3':418 'channel':182,340 'circuit':160 'clip':312 'concern':247 'correct':209 'could':194,267 'current':71 'cut':87 'damag':254 'danger':65 'deal':139 'devic':75,260 'disconnect':183 'done':204 'dummi':117 'either':256,335 'end':287,295 'especi':370 'even':289 'faint':229 'fiat':414 'first':24,210 'flip':215 'follow':273 'found':410 'friend':186 'full':403 'get':224 'googl':412 'ground':342 'happen':320,324 'haven':344 'head':398 'hear':240 'high':297 'howev':58,200 'imag':148,161,174 'in1':169 'input':35,92,192 'instal':54,83 'intern':13 'isn':133 'issu':196,274,378 'jack':6,56,97,147,309,338 'jump':190 'later':50 'lead':252 'least':395 'left':179 'lemmy.world':150,163,176 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)':149 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)':175 'lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)':162 'like':172 'line':36,93,128,171,193,386 'm':369 'male':278,280 'may':63,251 'min':42 'mine':188 'mp3':420 'mpv':417 'mute':105,127,145 'nativ':18 'on/off':138 'one':21,30 'origin':155 'paus':118 'pitch':298 'play':301 'player':15 'plug':258,283 'problemat':401 'proper':393 'puzzl':371 'read':327,363 'rear':181,315 'resist':329 'ring':367 'schemat':156,404 'second':275 'send':70 'signal':219 'simpl':136 'simpli':27 'sm':422 'speaker':304 'start':300 'stereo':10,39,69,89,107,222,263,407 'still':223,319 'sudden':326 'suggest':189 'support':19 'switch':85,217 'tap':383 'termin':316 'test':26,352 'thought':60,81,102 'three':124 'tri':2,306,346,381 'turn':109,234 'two':191 'unplug':359 'use':95,115 'versa':78,100 'vice':77,99 'volum':43,111,236 'wasn':206 'way':237 'whine':299 'without':288 'wonder':52 'work':51,208 'would':143 '~8m':332 'ω':333"
+cross: false
+upVotes: 0
+downVotes: 0
+ranking: 1688335184
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://lemmy.world/post/948092"
+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2033 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2013 …}
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-id: 7386
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384772 {#2018
date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
} |
|
Show voter details
|
112 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
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}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025}
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…2
}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
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+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1401 …}
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+reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2019 …}
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-id: 7168
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+ranking: 0
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2079 …}
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-id: 7489
-bodyTs: "'bet':44 'better':43 'bias':30 'capacitor':5,40 'could':16 'experienc':24 'explain':17 'extern':34 'ground':7 'input':35 'lack':13 'may':8 'need':10 'non':38 'non-polaris':37 'polaris':39 'problem':19 'provid':28 'reason':3 'sound':2 'stabil':12 'unless':25 'voltag':31"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/577757"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
+favouriteCount: 0
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
+children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2033 …}
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129}
]
-id: 699
-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
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+editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688320805 {#2756
date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688304184 {#2733
date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
+__isInitialized__: true
…2
}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2131 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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-id: 8412
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688566719 {#2133
date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 8412
} |
|
Show voter details
|
115 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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+lang: "en"
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+hasEmbed: false
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
}
+ip: null
+adaAmount: 0
+tags: null
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+comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2772 …}
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2783 …}
+children: [
4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:40.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
]
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+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/547415"
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688310294 {#1907
date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7087
}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#1382 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7168
-bodyTs: "'10k':28 'ad':53 'add':71,217 'albeit':196 'amp':118,155,176 'amplifi':195 'aren':173 'attenu':147,198 'back':39 'bite':211 'break':15 'cabl':55,73 'capacit':113 'capacitor':33,220 'cascad':205 'case':103,188 'cautious':204 'channel':85 'circuit':17,92,123 'combin':48 'condit':184 'connect':13,214 'could':44 'coupl':114 'current':240 'dc':233 'direct':213 'especi':115 'essenti':236 'even':238 'ever':162 'failur':206 'fair':170 'far':158 'free':181 'gain':126,156 'gate':100 'go':38 'good':5,201,228 'ground':133 'happen':82 'hard':168 'high':125,197 'higher':159 'idea':6,229 'imped':140 'input':54,94 'lazi':36 'limit':241 'line':58 'look':8,41 'mani':175 'may':79 'method':90 'mute':89 'never':212 'nois':180 'normal':12 'open':91,122 'parallel':32 'path':131,234 'place':50 'plan':61 'possibl':244 'practic':166 'probabl':106 'provid':231 'rememb':25 'remov':150 'replic':19 'resistor':29 'see':65 'seem':23 'seri':219 'short':128,136 'side':119 'signal':110,130,144,193 'still':107 'stop':80 'switch':97 'test':171 'thus':142 'togeth':152 'transfer':111 'tri':45,76 'turn':153 'two':88 'unavoid':216 'unless':215,235 'use':63 'usual':3,226 'via':95 'wait':209 'whine':68 'would':163 'yes':224"
+ranking: 0
+commentCount: 0
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+downVotes: 0
+visibility: "visible "
+apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/558468"
+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688334675 {#1405
date: 2023-07-02 23:51:15.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7168
}
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
+lang: "en"
+isAdult: false
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date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
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"@derivativeoflog7@lemmy.world"
"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
]
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-id: 7489
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+editedAt: null
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688384742 {#2075
date: 2023-07-03 13:45:42.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7489
}
1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
+root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908}
+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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date: 2023-07-03 13:46:12.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7386
}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129}
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-titleTs: "'add':7 'aux':9 'car':4 'input':10 'mod':2 'proper':16 'stereo':5 'tri':1 'work':15"
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
}
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
}
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…2
}
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+body: "Sounds good to me (pun intended)…"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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+"title": 8412
} |
|
Show voter details
|
116 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1998 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Tried-modding-a-car-stereo-to-add-an-AUX-input"
+title: "Tried modding a car stereo to add an AUX input, but it's not working properly"
+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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4 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1908
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
I’m puzzled - you describe wanting to add a headphone jack (eg an output jack socket into which headphones can be plugged) - yet you seem to actually want a socket that provides auxiliary input.\n
\n
However, if you are indeed trying to add external input and are disconnecting the inputs to an amplifier - you might want to tie those disconnected inputs to ground.
"""
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date: 2023-07-02 17:04:54.0 +02:00
}
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}
3 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#1385
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+body: """
It’s usually a good idea to look at what’s normally connected, when breaking a circuit, and replicate that. Which I seem to remember is a 10k resistor with a parallel capacitor (being too lazy to go back and look again). You could try the same combination, in place of the added input cable, on the lines that you plan to use and see if it whines. If not, add the cable(s) and try again. That may stop it happening on all channels.\n
\n
There are two muting methods - open circuit the input (via a switch or a gate) - in which case there will probably still be some signal transfer through capacitive coupling - especially if the amp side of the open circuit is high gain. Or short the signal path to ground - and that short will have some impedance and thus the signal is only attenuated and not removed all together.\n
\n
Turning the amp gain to far higher than it ever would be in practice is hardly a fair test. There aren’t many amps that will be noise free under those conditions - and, in this case, there will be a signal to amplify, albeit highly attenuated.\n
\n
It’s good to be cautious - cascade failure can be waiting to bite. Never direct connect unless unavoidable - add a series capacitor, if you can. Yes, not usually a good idea to provide a dc path unless essential and, even then, current limit it if possible.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2061
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+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1407 …2}
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2011 …}
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2025
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+body: """
That sounds reasonable. That capacitor to ground may be needed for stability - lack of it could explain the problems that you have been experiencing.\n
\n
Unless you are providing a bias voltage on the external input, a non-polarised capacitor is a better bet.
"""
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129}
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date: 2023-07-02 20:00:05.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-07-02 15:23:04.0 +02:00
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…2
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date: 2023-07-05 16:18:39.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
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117 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
118 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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+body: "Thanks for the suggestion - I think that there are inline adapters to a different plug, but finding a different coaxial plug that will handle that current could prove challenging."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
119 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
+type: "article"
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+children: [
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
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+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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+body: "Thanks for the suggestion - I think that there are inline adapters to a different plug, but finding a different coaxial plug that will handle that current could prove challenging."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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date: 2023-07-01 18:56:54.0 +02:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
120 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
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+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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Show voter details
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121 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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122 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
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+url: null
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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Show voter details
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123 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
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+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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date: 2023-07-01 23:10:58.0 +02:00
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+"title": 6771
} |
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Show voter details
|
124 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: App\Entity\Entry {#1428
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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+body: "Thanks for the suggestion - I think that there are inline adapters to a different plug, but finding a different coaxial plug that will handle that current could prove challenging."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
125 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
126 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
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+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
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+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
127 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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Show voter details
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128 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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|
Show voter details
|
129 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
130 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
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+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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Show voter details
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131 |
DENIED
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edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
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2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
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+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Krististrasza@lemmy.world"
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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+body: "Thanks for the suggestion - I think that there are inline adapters to a different plug, but finding a different coaxial plug that will handle that current could prove challenging."
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080}
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-titleTs: "'5.08':7 '7.4':5 'chassi':10 'descript':18 'femal':9 'find':3 'mm':8 'mount':11 'socket':12 'use':15 'wrong':17 'x':6"
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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"@pneumapunk@lemmy.sdf.org"
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date: 2023-07-04 20:58:39.0 +02:00
}
+"title": 7820
} |
|
Show voter details
|
132 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: App\Entity\Entry {#1428
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "Can-t-find-a-7-4-x-5-08mm-female-chassis-mount-socket"
+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
+url: null
+body: """
I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
"""
+type: "article"
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}
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+badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1573 …}
+children: [
2 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2459
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: App\Entity\Entry {#1428}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
+root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2468 …}
+body: """
Nope, good guess, but the power supply is from a Philips Respironics Dream Station <https://www.cpap.co.uk/product/dreamstation-80w-power-supply/>\n
\n
But you are correct - there does seem to be a recessed metal inner sleeve. I had looked for one, but couldn’t see one - tried again after your post (with a brighter light!)\n
\n
I still need a chassis mount socket for it, though…\n
\n
There is a 12v car lead - which makes me wonder if that centre pin is actually used at all…\n
\n
<https://www.lps-gopower.org/12v-philips-respironics-dreamstation-machine-267p-car-auto-dc-travel-charger-99735.htm>
"""
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
"@Krististrasza@lemmy.world"
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1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2386
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2080}
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+body: "Brilliant! Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help me with this - and for mentioning “CONNECTORBOOK.COM” so I can add that as a useful reference. Not a chassis mount but that always was a mission impossible to find, I suspect."
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"@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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date: 2023-07-04 20:58:39.0 +02:00
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|
Show voter details
|
133 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
134 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2463
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2376 …}
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "ESP32-with-multiple-cameras"
+title: "ESP32 with multiple cameras"
+url: null
+body: "I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with one ESP32?"
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+image: null
+parent: null
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+body: """
Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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date: 2023-07-01 10:52:28.0 +02:00
}
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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date: 2023-06-30 23:07:49.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
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135 |
DENIED
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2463
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "ESP32-with-multiple-cameras"
+title: "ESP32 with multiple cameras"
+url: null
+body: "I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with one ESP32?"
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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date: 2023-07-05 16:28:39.0 +02:00
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0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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date: 2023-06-30 23:07:49.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
136 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2463
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2376 …}
+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "ESP32-with-multiple-cameras"
+title: "ESP32 with multiple cameras"
+url: null
+body: "I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with one ESP32?"
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+parent: null
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+body: """
Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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}
0 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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date: 2023-06-30 23:07:49.0 +02:00
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…2
} |
|
Show voter details
|
137 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
138 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2411
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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…2
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Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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Show voter details
|
139 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2411
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Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
140 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2411
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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Show voter details
|
141 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
142 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
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Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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date: 2023-07-05 16:28:38.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
|
143 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
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+body: "I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with one ESP32?"
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+parent: null
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+body: """
Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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date: 2023-07-05 16:28:38.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
144 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2141
+user: App\Entity\User {#261 …}
+entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2463
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1646 …}
+slug: "ESP32-with-multiple-cameras"
+title: "ESP32 with multiple cameras"
+url: null
+body: "I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with one ESP32?"
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+magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1649 …}
+image: null
+parent: null
+root: null
+body: """
Usual situation - if I needed to interface to 5 cameras I wouldn’t start with ones that needed: “The DVP physical interface consists of a single, 100-conductor, 110-ohm cable organized. as 45 differential signal pairs. These signal pairs consist of the following: • 36 RGB data pairs. • 2 clock pairs.” So, you would be interfacing to 5 x 45 differential pairs. I’d be looking for camera modules with serial output…\n
\n
Or, as you suggest, give each camera something that can convert that lot into a single serial data stream. Or even process it down to a QR code and just send that. Or even do what-ever it is that you want to do with that code, once received.
"""
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+body: "Depends on your programming abilities. You can set up a “1-Wire” bus and put the lot on that. You could have one microcontroller as master and the rest as slaves - your external USB connection would go to the master and it could, in theory at least, then pass on program upgrades to the others. Clearly they would all have to be programmed individually, originally. But, quite frankly, the investment in time and effort on setting all that up? If you had dozens, hundreds - then yes. But you only have a small hand full. I’d just bring out their USB connections and program them individually, via those. I think each one has a unique identifier, stored in ROM - so they could all run the same software and include that identifier in messages on the bus."
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Show voter details
|
145 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
|
Show voter details
|
146 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1714
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2645 …}
+slug: "Non-Inverting-LM358-Circuit-Not-Working"
+title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/4e44ba5a-c8c2-485d-a6cf-9a89d2fd9670.jpeg"
+body: """
Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1556
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+body: """
What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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Show voter details
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edit
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1714
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+slug: "Non-Inverting-LM358-Circuit-Not-Working"
+title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/4e44ba5a-c8c2-485d-a6cf-9a89d2fd9670.jpeg"
+body: """
Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
"""
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What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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Show voter details
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moderate
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Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1714
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Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
"""
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+body: """
What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
"""
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What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#1556
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Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
\n
Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
\n
My questions are as follows:\n
\n
1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
"""
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What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
\n
Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
\n
So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
"""
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