1 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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2 |
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1756
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1426 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1537 …}
+slug: "What-is-this-e-paper-connector"
+title: "What is this e-paper connector?"
+url: "https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/8af9ad6e-a0fa-4021-a50d-c8aa19e27893.jpeg"
+body: """
I got my hands on an old e-ink price tag and want to repurpose this display.\n
\n
Unfortunately, I can’t really figure out, what this type of connector/bus is called. To me it looks like a standard issue ribbon cable.\n
\n
There are some “universal” e-paper drivers (for example this one: [www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922](https://www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922)), but I have absolutely no idea, how to find out, if that’s the right connector.\n
\n
The device is made by Imagotag, if that helps.\n
\n
Edit: I added a picture of the panel: [feddit.de/…/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.…](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.jpeg)\n
\n
None of the “markings” returned any results and the QR code couldn’t be decoded by my phone.
"""
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date: 2023-08-15 18:58:29.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
|
3 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1756
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1426 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "What-is-this-e-paper-connector"
+title: "What is this e-paper connector?"
+url: "https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/8af9ad6e-a0fa-4021-a50d-c8aa19e27893.jpeg"
+body: """
I got my hands on an old e-ink price tag and want to repurpose this display.\n
\n
Unfortunately, I can’t really figure out, what this type of connector/bus is called. To me it looks like a standard issue ribbon cable.\n
\n
There are some “universal” e-paper drivers (for example this one: [www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922](https://www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922)), but I have absolutely no idea, how to find out, if that’s the right connector.\n
\n
The device is made by Imagotag, if that helps.\n
\n
Edit: I added a picture of the panel: [feddit.de/…/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.…](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.jpeg)\n
\n
None of the “markings” returned any results and the QR code couldn’t be decoded by my phone.
"""
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date: 2023-08-15 18:58:29.0 +02:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1756
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1426 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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+slug: "What-is-this-e-paper-connector"
+title: "What is this e-paper connector?"
+url: "https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/8af9ad6e-a0fa-4021-a50d-c8aa19e27893.jpeg"
+body: """
I got my hands on an old e-ink price tag and want to repurpose this display.\n
\n
Unfortunately, I can’t really figure out, what this type of connector/bus is called. To me it looks like a standard issue ribbon cable.\n
\n
There are some “universal” e-paper drivers (for example this one: [www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922](https://www.ebay.de/itm/353141399922)), but I have absolutely no idea, how to find out, if that’s the right connector.\n
\n
The device is made by Imagotag, if that helps.\n
\n
Edit: I added a picture of the panel: [feddit.de/…/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.…](https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/42ee4f60-231a-4c42-9a66-6c369134c49c.jpeg)\n
\n
None of the “markings” returned any results and the QR code couldn’t be decoded by my phone.
"""
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date: 2023-08-15 18:58:29.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1695
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1698 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1703 …}
+slug: "How-could-a-DC-oscillator-produce-AC-after-a-capacitor"
+title: "How could a DC oscillator produce AC after a capacitor?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/d3d039c3-1c43-453a-863b-e1638fc5c7ab.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
"""
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Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
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\n
Rules\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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Hello there, This oscillator is a 0V +10v DC oscillator, which after current passes through the capacitor, it produces a -5v +5v AC on the resistor.\n
\n
We’ve all heard that AC removes DC component and let’s AC pass by. I understand the dynamics of this circuit in case the oscillator were operating with AC (capacitive reactance), however this oscillator is DC, the voltage across the capacitor never changes polarity (since the other side of circuit is ground), so what gives? And why the 10V DC is split on half +5 -5 volts after the capacitor? Thank you!
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
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This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
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There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
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I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
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Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
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\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
\n
I can already output the signal on a pin of my microcontroller. The signal has a carrier frequency of 38kHz.\n
\n
I am however limited to a 5V 1A power supply and would like to drive the LED as close to the 5W psu limit as possible.\n
\n
I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
\n
Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
\n
I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
"""
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
\n
I can already output the signal on a pin of my microcontroller. The signal has a carrier frequency of 38kHz.\n
\n
I am however limited to a 5V 1A power supply and would like to drive the LED as close to the 5W psu limit as possible.\n
\n
I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
\n
Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
\n
I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
\n
I can already output the signal on a pin of my microcontroller. The signal has a carrier frequency of 38kHz.\n
\n
I am however limited to a 5V 1A power supply and would like to drive the LED as close to the 5W psu limit as possible.\n
\n
I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
\n
Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
\n
I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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Show voter details
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31 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1702
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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4: Be safe.\n
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---
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+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
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date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
32 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1702
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1701 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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+title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
\n
Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
\n
Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
\n
It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
\n
Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
\n
Thanks for any comment.
"""
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}
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date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
33 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
34 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1628
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1626 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
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+url: null
+body: """
Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

"""
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35 |
DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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\n
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Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

"""
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36 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1628
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
\n
I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
\n
TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
\n

"""
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Show voter details
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37 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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38 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1737
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
"""
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Show voter details
|
39 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1737
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1734 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
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Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
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To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
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Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
\n
To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
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\n
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Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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moderate
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+url: "https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/670924/107963"
+body: """
Solution\n
--------\n
\n
Using an open drain buffer like the `74LVC1G07` did the trick. Note that this part only works for inputs with a pull-up resistor. There are other parts from the same lineup that can work with any input.\n
\n
Problem\n
-------\n
\n
> I have an ebike computer that has two inputs that accept square wave signals. The range is 0-5V. One of the inputs has no pull-up/down resistors on it. When I hook up a device producing signal, the signal is detected correctly. Both highs and lows are detected correctly. The other input has a built-in pull-up resistor. When I hook the same signal to it, only the high side is detected. Measuring the voltage of the low side, it's a bit higher than when hooked to the other input and I'm guessing it isn't crossing the low threshold the computer expects in order to register the low.\n
\n
> Am I right in thinking that the pull-up resistor is increasing the lows?\n
\n
> Is it possible to counteract the internal pull-up resistor by hooking a pull-down resistor to the input?\n
\n
> I'm a software guy with decent soldering skills and minimal knowledge in electronics so please answer like I'm not the brightest electronic bulb on the tree.\n
\n
> Thank you in advance!\n
\n
Cross-posting my question from StackExchange.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
\n
I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
\n
There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
\n
+15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
\n
to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
\n
I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
\n
There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
\n
+15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
\n
to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
\n
I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
\n
Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
\n
Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
\n
I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
\n
There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
\n
+15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
\n
to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
\n
I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
\n
Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
\n
Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Hi, I am automating my manual switches at home with ESPHome on NodeMCU. For controlling the switches, I am using 8 channel relay module.\n
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Show voter details
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56 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Rules\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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57 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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58 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1404
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\n
Rules\n
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Show voter details
|
59 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1404
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I have a whole bunch of them. They are possibly a bit older (70s, 80s) judging by other contents of the junk box they are from.\n
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\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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60 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I have a whole bunch of them. They are possibly a bit older (70s, 80s) judging by other contents of the junk box they are from.\n
\n
There are no labels of any kind, but on the top they have stripes that look hand painted.\n
\n
\n
\n
For at least some of them the resistance roughly corresponds to the color code.\n
\n
So, I’m just curious why I can’t find anything about these on the internet.
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\n
Rules\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
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Show voter details
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64 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2021
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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This photo shows the power conversion side of two versions of the same board. Input is up to 60V DC, board converts to 5V and then down to 3.3V.\n
\n
The top board works correctly all the time. But the bottom board has strange issues. Everything works perfectly when I connect it to my bench power supply at 53V. The board powers up with no problems. When I connect it to the daisy chain of other boards, it suddenly will no longer power on, despite ~54V being passed through correctly to downstream boards.\n
\n
This is a real head-scratcher for me, and I’m having trouble making sense of it. I’m not so much looking for The Solution as to what steps I should take to troubleshoot this. There were some issues attaching the image, so in case it doesn’t show up.\n
\n
[photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8](https://photos.app.goo.gl/MCx7Q4BDbKTv68EJ8)
"""
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Show voter details
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65 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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66 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2076
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2097 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
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+slug: "Help-identifying-connector"
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Hi!\n
\n
I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
"""
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edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Rules\n
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\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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69 |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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App\Entity\Entry {#2087
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\n
Rules\n
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71 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\Entry {#2087
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Rules\n
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I've wondered this occasionally over the years, but never got it working.\n
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72 |
DENIED
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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Since MOSFETs have a gate capacitance you’d want to limit the inrush of current from the output of a microcontroller to prevent it from getting damaged prematurely. That’s what gate resistors are usually good for.\n
\n
Another thing is that most MOSFETs don’t fully activate with a gate voltage below 10V (n type) so usually a microcontroller pin isn’t good enough for switching large loads.\n
\n
I have a 24V system and have made a voltage divider using two 10k resistors to step down 24V to 12V as gate driving voltage which is pulled down with a weaker MOSFET. The power MOSFET essentially ends up with a 10k gate resistor this way meaning it will take a bit longer to fully saturate.\n
\n
Is too high harmful? In this situation the load is a heater that activates when the room temperature drops below 18C and deactivates when it gets above 22C so fast switching is not an issue.
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
Anyone got any info on what the chip name of these is? Even better if you have any info on how they are programmed etc!
"""
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2110
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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