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The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: [pixelfed](https://pixelfed.social/p/Tanka/611711663807628749)\n
\n
Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: [pixelfed](https://pixelfed.social/p/Tanka/611711663807628749)\n
\n
Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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Show voter details
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| 4 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1874
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\n
Rules\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don’t get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: [pixelfed](https://pixelfed.social/p/Tanka/611711663807628749)\n
\n
Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a LTS version.
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Show voter details
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| 5 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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| 6 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\Entry {#2372
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
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+body: """
**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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Rules\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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| 8 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2372
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 9 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1539
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi, I am automating my manual switches at home with ESPHome on NodeMCU. For controlling the switches, I am using 8 channel relay module.\n
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Show voter details
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|
edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1539
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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| 12 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1539
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hi, I am automating my manual switches at home with ESPHome on NodeMCU. For controlling the switches, I am using 8 channel relay module.\n
\n
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\n
Just wanted to know your thoughts on enclosure. Should I just wrap the whole thing in electrical tape? Or a plastic box maybe?
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| 13 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 14 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Show voter details
|
| 15 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1525
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 16 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1525
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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|
Show voter details
|
| 17 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 18 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2452
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2457 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 19 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2452
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2457 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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date: 2023-09-17 22:33:00.0 +02:00
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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+title: "askelectronics"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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+slug: "PCB-Design-Review-Request-ESP32-Smart-Relay-Board"
+title: "PCB Design Review Request: ESP32 Smart Relay Board"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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date: 2023-09-17 22:33:00.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 25 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 26 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1726
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1728 …}
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#1736 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1730 …}
+slug: "SOLVED-Identification-of-angled-snapin-terminals-on-AC-inverter-filter"
+title: "SOLVED. Identification of angled snapin terminals on AC inverter filter cap"
+url: "https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/d0c67ded-d305-4a19-823b-660e66aaeba4.webp"
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Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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\n
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Solution: @DJPhil@discuss.tchncs.de has made some really insightful comments below, which are really useful. If you just want the cap you can set the parametric searches for 660uF, or in September 2023 I’ve found that digikey stock(s/ed) chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M.\n
\n
Update 2: Turns out that EKHJ451VSN661MA59M is *not* the ordering code you’ll want. That would be EKHJ451**LI**N661MA59M which returns 0 results when you Google it, or maybe a single result in a few days linking to this thread. So it looks like you’d be better off just getting some 680uF with blade snapins instead and retrofitting the board if possible. Just make sure it can handle the ripple current. Always check ordering codes twice my friends!\n
\n
**Original post**\n
\n
I need help identifying the terminals on some strange caps found in an AC inverter main board. The reason I state the AC part, is that the only other mention I’ve found of this layout, was a question on digikeys forum regarding an AC inverter [forum.digikey.com/t/…/19332](https://forum.digikey.com/t/can-t-find-the-right-terminals-for-a-capacitor/19332) The capacitor in question has the same measurements as the one in the link.\n
\n
In my picture on the right you can see the layout of the terminals, there’s room for three caps, but only two was mounted, hence the relatively clean pads. On the left is one of the two caps in question. It says nichicon LQ(K), 85°C. Nichicon has discontinued the LQ-series, and the datasheet doesn’t mention a 660µF variant. I don’t know what fujitsu did to get caps with capacitance outside the E24 series.\n
\n
**Question:**What is the name of this type of terminals? And more importantly: where can you get 680µF 450V caps with them? I haven’t found them on neither Farnell or RS-Online.\n
\n
For the sake of people googling this in the future, the AC in question is a fujitsu AOYS09LDC and the board was marked K05CM-C-A(03).
"""
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| 29 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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Rules\n
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Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 36 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
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- Cable C \n
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- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
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Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
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\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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+slug: "Considering-positioning-strategies-for-autonomous-mechanum-wheeled-robots"
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+url: null
+body: """
Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 45 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
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| 46 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1572
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1574 …}
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
\n
My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
"""
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| 47 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1572
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
\n
My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
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Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1572
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
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My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
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Show voter details
|
| 49 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1866
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
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Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
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Can anyone help here please?
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Show voter details
|
| 51 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1866
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1371 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
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\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 52 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1866
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1371 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
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Hi, my cousin has an Xbox Series S, and anytime he would move it the fan would make some pretty freaky noises.\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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Hi, my cousin has an Xbox Series S, and anytime he would move it the fan would make some pretty freaky noises.\n
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\n
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DENIED
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\n
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+url: null
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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+url: null
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 60 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1522
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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+url: null
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 61 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1666
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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+slug: "What-s-the-thinnest-E-ink-screen-that-is-closest-to-3-5-2-5"
+title: "What's the thinnest E-ink screen that is closest to 3.5×2.5 inch?"
+url: null
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I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 63 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1666
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1667 …}
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 64 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1666
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Rules\n
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I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 65 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 66 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1418
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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Show voter details
|
| 67 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1418
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Show voter details
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Rules\n
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Hi all, I have a water pump connected to an adapter (pictured) but I am having trouble getting it to run using any of the cords I had on hand; it calls for using DC-only & 12V (between 9-14). I have tried Googling around & browsing Amazon but I’m a bit overwhelmed with options. Can anyone suggest an adapter that’ll get this little guy pumping? Please forgive my naivety & TIA.\n
\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1703
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi all, I have a water pump connected to an adapter (pictured) but I am having trouble getting it to run using any of the cords I had on hand; it calls for using DC-only & 12V (between 9-14). I have tried Googling around & browsing Amazon but I’m a bit overwhelmed with options. Can anyone suggest an adapter that’ll get this little guy pumping? Please forgive my naivety & TIA.\n
\n
Also, I hope that it’s kosher I ask here. If it’s not, please let me know if there’s a better place. Thanks again.
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 73 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 74 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1446
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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Rules\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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`[95%] Generate netlist file “/home/original2/Downloads/Gowin_V1.9.8.09_Education_linux/IDE/bin/VGA_out/impl/gwsynthesis/VGA_out.vg” completed`\n
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I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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| 85 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1474
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Rules\n
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 87 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1474
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Rules\n
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 88 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 89 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 90 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1783
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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- Icon 3: 27\n
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Icon 2, by @Double_A has duly been adopted.
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Show voter details
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| 91 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1783
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 100 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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Show voter details
|
| 101 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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