GET https://kbin.spritesserver.nl/index.php/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/t/2391/Calibrating-vintage-multimeter/top

Response
200 OK
IP
216.73.216.26
Profiled on
Token
5cffc6

Security

Token

There is no security token.

Firewall

main Name
Security enabled
Stateless

Configuration

Key Value
provider security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context main
entry_point App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler (none)
access_denied_url (none)
authenticators 
[
  "two_factor"
  "remember_me"
  "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"
]

Listeners

Listener Duration Response 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -httpPort: 80
  -httpsPort: 443
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …}
  -sessionKey: "_security_main"
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …}
  -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
  -registered: false
  -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …}
  -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}
}
 8.13 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584
  -authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582
  -twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …}
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}
}
 0.08 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …}
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -options: [
    "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token"
    "csrf_token_id" => "logout"
    "logout_path" => "app_logout"
  ]
  -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …}
  -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …}
  -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none)

Authenticators

No authenticators have been recorded. Check previous profiles on your authentication endpoint.

Access Decision

affirmative Strategy
# Voter class
1 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

Access decision log

# Result Attributes Object
1 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
2 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\Entry {#2413
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
  +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
  +title: "Calibrating vintage multimeter"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
    \n
    Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
    \n
    Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 8
  +favouriteCount: 10
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1696159076 {#2418
    date: 2023-10-01 13:17:56.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1408 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1961 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1972 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1399 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2440 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2436 …}
  +children: []
  -id: 2391
  -titleTs: "'calibr':1 'multimet':3 'vintag':2"
  -bodyTs: "'300v':47 '5700':56 'acquir':4 'anybodi':57 'back':13 'batteri':12,22 'battery-back':11 'calibr':15,32,35,66 'certif':81 'data':16 'dc':48 'due':19 'edit':9,82 'exact':46 'factori':14 'fuke':55 'get':30 'hobbyist':70 'howev':33 'involv':39 'know':58 'live':84 'look':27 'lost':18 'm':26,68 'manual':51 'multimet':65 'need':75 'netherland':87 'philip':7 'pm2534':8 'procedur':36 'rather':38 'realli':74 'recent':3 'recommend':52 'requir':41 'run':23 'servic':50 'somehow':29 'thing':43,77 'traceabl':79 'uncalibr':6 'use':53 've':2 'way':61"
  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1696032451
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://derp.foo/post/272718"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695983549 {#1858
    date: 2023-09-29 12:32:29.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695982951 {#2388
    date: 2023-09-29 12:22:31.0 +02:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
3 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\Entry {#2413
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
  +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
  +title: "Calibrating vintage multimeter"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
    \n
    Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
    \n
    Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 8
  +favouriteCount: 10
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1696159076 {#2418
    date: 2023-10-01 13:17:56.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1408 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1961 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1972 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1399 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2440 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2436 …}
  +children: []
  -id: 2391
  -titleTs: "'calibr':1 'multimet':3 'vintag':2"
  -bodyTs: "'300v':47 '5700':56 'acquir':4 'anybodi':57 'back':13 'batteri':12,22 'battery-back':11 'calibr':15,32,35,66 'certif':81 'data':16 'dc':48 'due':19 'edit':9,82 'exact':46 'factori':14 'fuke':55 'get':30 'hobbyist':70 'howev':33 'involv':39 'know':58 'live':84 'look':27 'lost':18 'm':26,68 'manual':51 'multimet':65 'need':75 'netherland':87 'philip':7 'pm2534':8 'procedur':36 'rather':38 'realli':74 'recent':3 'recommend':52 'requir':41 'run':23 'servic':50 'somehow':29 'thing':43,77 'traceabl':79 'uncalibr':6 'use':53 've':2 'way':61"
  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1696032451
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://derp.foo/post/272718"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695983549 {#1858
    date: 2023-09-29 12:32:29.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695982951 {#2388
    date: 2023-09-29 12:22:31.0 +02:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
4 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\Entry {#2413
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1973 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#264
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#268
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1899 …}
  +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
  +title: "Calibrating vintage multimeter"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
    \n
    Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
    \n
    Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 8
  +favouriteCount: 10
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1696159076 {#2418
    date: 2023-10-01 13:17:56.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1408 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1961 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1972 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1399 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2440 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2436 …}
  +children: []
  -id: 2391
  -titleTs: "'calibr':1 'multimet':3 'vintag':2"
  -bodyTs: "'300v':47 '5700':56 'acquir':4 'anybodi':57 'back':13 'batteri':12,22 'battery-back':11 'calibr':15,32,35,66 'certif':81 'data':16 'dc':48 'due':19 'edit':9,82 'exact':46 'factori':14 'fuke':55 'get':30 'hobbyist':70 'howev':33 'involv':39 'know':58 'live':84 'look':27 'lost':18 'm':26,68 'manual':51 'multimet':65 'need':75 'netherland':87 'philip':7 'pm2534':8 'procedur':36 'rather':38 'realli':74 'recent':3 'recommend':52 'requir':41 'run':23 'servic':50 'somehow':29 'thing':43,77 'traceabl':79 'uncalibr':6 'use':53 've':2 'way':61"
  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1696032451
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://derp.foo/post/272718"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695983549 {#1858
    date: 2023-09-29 12:32:29.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695982951 {#2388
    date: 2023-09-29 12:22:31.0 +02:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
5 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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    Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
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    Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
    \n
    It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
    """
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Show voter details
7 DENIED edit 
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        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
        \n
        Rules\n
        -----\n
        \n
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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    Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
    \n
    Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
    \n
    It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
    """
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Show voter details
8 DENIED moderate 
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        -----\n
        \n
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
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    Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
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    Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
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    It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
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      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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      Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
      \n
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      \n
      It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
      """
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    > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
    \n
    Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
    \n
    > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
    \n
    Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
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      Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
      \n
      Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
      \n
      It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
      """
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    > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
    \n
    Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
    \n
    > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
    \n
    Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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    +body: """
      Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
      \n
      Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
      \n
      It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
      """
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  +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
  +body: """
    > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
    \n
    Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
    \n
    > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
    \n
    Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
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      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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      date: 2023-09-29 12:22:31.0 +02:00
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    +parent: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030
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      +body: """
        Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
        \n
        Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
        """
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        date: 2023-09-29 15:32:39.0 +02:00
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
    +body: """
      > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
      \n
      Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
      \n
      > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
      \n
      Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
      """
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      date: 2023-09-29 18:57:00.0 +02:00
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  +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
  +body: """
    400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
    \n
    I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
    \n
    With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
    """
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15 DENIED edit 
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        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
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        Rules\n
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        \n
        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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        4: Be safe.\n
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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      +image: null
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      +body: """
        Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
        \n
        Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
        """
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        date: 2023-09-29 15:32:39.0 +02:00
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
    +body: """
      > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
      \n
      Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
      \n
      > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
      \n
      Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
      """
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      "@BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works"
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    -bodyTs: "'/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)':15 '/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/)':20 '400':28 'around':27 'articl':61 'build':44,64 'calibr':5,22,47 'contact':3 'devic':24 'easier':86 'everyth':76 'expens':42 'explain':62 'found':59 'go':80 'guess':50 'invent':75 'lab':6 'll':52 'lot':85 'make':82 'need':69 'netherland':12 'one':9 'paid':35 'price':17 'rather':31 'scratch':78 'sourc':67 'start':25 'thank':70 'thing':38 'way':40 'www.minerva-calibration.com':14,19 'www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)':13 'www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/)':18"
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      date: 2023-09-29 18:57:00.0 +02:00
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  +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
  +body: """
    400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
    \n
    I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
    \n
    With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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        Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
        \n
        Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
        """
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      > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
      \n
      Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
      \n
      > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
      \n
      Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
      """
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  +body: """
    400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
    \n
    I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
    \n
    With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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          Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
          \n
          Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
          """
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          date: 2023-09-29 15:32:39.0 +02:00
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      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
      +body: """
        > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
        \n
        > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
        \n
        Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
        """
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
    +body: """
      400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
      \n
      I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
      \n
      With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
      """
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  +body: """
    > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
    \n
    Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
    \n
    I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
    """
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19 DENIED edit 
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        **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
        \n
        Rules\n
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        \n
        1: Be nice.\n
        \n
        2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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        4: Be safe.\n
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        ---
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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        +image: null
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        +body: """
          Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
          \n
          Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
          """
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      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
      +body: """
        > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
        \n
        > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
        \n
        Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
        """
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
    +body: """
      400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
      \n
      I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
      \n
      With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
      """
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    > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
    \n
    Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
    \n
    I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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        +body: """
          Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
          \n
          Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
          """
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          date: 2023-09-29 15:32:39.0 +02:00
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      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
      +body: """
        > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
        \n
        Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
        \n
        > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
        \n
        Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
        """
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    +body: """
      400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
      \n
      I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
      \n
      With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
      """
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    > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
    \n
    Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
    \n
    I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
    """
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22 DENIED moderate 
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
    +title: "Calibrating vintage multimeter"
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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          +body: """
            Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
            \n
            Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
            """
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            date: 2023-09-29 15:32:39.0 +02:00
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        +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#4030}
        +body: """
          > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
          \n
          > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
          \n
          Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
          """
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      +body: """
        400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
        \n
        I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
        \n
        With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
        """
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    +body: """
      > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
      \n
      Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
      \n
      I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
      """
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  +body: """
    > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
    \n
    But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
    \n
    The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
    \n
    I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
    \n
    The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
    \n
    But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
    """
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23 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#4241
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        Rules\n
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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          +body: """
            Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
            \n
            Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
            """
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        +body: """
          > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
          \n
          > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
          \n
          Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
          """
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      +body: """
        400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
        \n
        I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
        \n
        With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
        """
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    +body: """
      > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
      \n
      Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
      \n
      I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
      """
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  +body: """
    > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
    \n
    But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
    \n
    The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
    \n
    I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
    \n
    The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
    \n
    But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
    """
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
    +title: "Calibrating vintage multimeter"
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    +body: """
      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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          +body: """
            Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
            \n
            Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
            """
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        +body: """
          > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
          \n
          Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
          \n
          > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
          \n
          Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
          """
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      +body: """
        400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
        \n
        I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
        \n
        With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
        """
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    +body: """
      > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
      \n
      Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
      \n
      I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
      """
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  +body: """
    > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
    \n
    Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
    \n
    But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
    \n
    The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
    \n
    I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
    \n
    The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
    \n
    But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
    """
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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            +body: """
              Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
              \n
              Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
              \n
              It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
              """
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            > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
            \n
            > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
            \n
            Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
            """
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        +body: """
          400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
          \n
          I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
          \n
          With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
          """
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        > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
        \n
        Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
        \n
        Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
        \n
        I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
        """
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      > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
      \n
      But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
      \n
      The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
      \n
      > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
      \n
      I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
      \n
      The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
      \n
      But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
      """
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  +body: """
    > Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving.\n
    \n
    Interesting. Your comment made me read up on all of this. Note that, since V~rms~ = 1 ÷ √2 × V~peak~, 230VAC has a V~peak~ of 325V, so in that respect, it should be pretty much equivalent to 300VDC. I figured that the ability for AC to induce heart fibrillations was the most dangerous factor in all of this, but I hadn’t figured in that DC induces tetanus and can also temporarily stop the heart.\n
    \n
    It’s not the volts that kill you though, it’s the amps (the volts just make it easier). I found [a table](https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-3/ohms-law-again/) listing the effects of various amperages. It does present DC as generally more safe when compared against 60Hz AC, but I’m not sure how that generalises to the 50Hz AC we have here. I do conclude however that I should be limiting the output current to something something generally safe, like 20mA (which should be fine for a voltage reference). I’m thinking a PTC at the input and being conservative wrt capacitor sizing should do it.\n
    \n
    > Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    TBH, when it comes to an EKG apparatus I’d also be worried about common mode across the chest, or the power supply [having a disastrous failure mode](https://hackaday.com/2021/05/19/repairing-a-vintage-hp-9825-the-hard-way/).\n
    \n
    > I prefer my Sn60Pb40 (…) The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right.\n
    \n
    Yeah, those were horrid. Even the supposedly excellent SAC305 gave me dull joints (tough it flowed adequately). Still, I can only recommend Sn100Ni+ (supposedly closely related to [SN100C](https://hackaday.com/2020/01/28/lead-free-solder-alloys-their-properties-and-best-types-for-daily-use/)): flows well and gives me the shiny joints I crave. Having a good soldering iron (I’m using a [Pinecil](https://www.pine64.org/pinecil/)) helps with solderability.\n
    \n
    I do however still have some rosin core Sn60Pb40 for reworking vintage electronics. And I do agree that it’s just *better* when it comes to wetting ability. The peace of mind when working with lead-free solder really is worth it though, especially with pets or small children.
    """
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27 DENIED edit 
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    +slug: "Calibrating-vintage-multimeter"
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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            +body: """
              Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
              \n
              Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
              \n
              It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
              """
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          +body: """
            > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
            \n
            > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
            \n
            Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
            """
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        +body: """
          400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
          \n
          I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
          \n
          With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
          """
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        > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
        \n
        Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
        \n
        Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
        \n
        I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
        """
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    +body: """
      > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
      \n
      But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
      \n
      The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
      \n
      > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
      \n
      I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
      \n
      The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
      \n
      But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
      """
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    > Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving.\n
    \n
    Interesting. Your comment made me read up on all of this. Note that, since V~rms~ = 1 ÷ √2 × V~peak~, 230VAC has a V~peak~ of 325V, so in that respect, it should be pretty much equivalent to 300VDC. I figured that the ability for AC to induce heart fibrillations was the most dangerous factor in all of this, but I hadn’t figured in that DC induces tetanus and can also temporarily stop the heart.\n
    \n
    It’s not the volts that kill you though, it’s the amps (the volts just make it easier). I found [a table](https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-3/ohms-law-again/) listing the effects of various amperages. It does present DC as generally more safe when compared against 60Hz AC, but I’m not sure how that generalises to the 50Hz AC we have here. I do conclude however that I should be limiting the output current to something something generally safe, like 20mA (which should be fine for a voltage reference). I’m thinking a PTC at the input and being conservative wrt capacitor sizing should do it.\n
    \n
    > Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    TBH, when it comes to an EKG apparatus I’d also be worried about common mode across the chest, or the power supply [having a disastrous failure mode](https://hackaday.com/2021/05/19/repairing-a-vintage-hp-9825-the-hard-way/).\n
    \n
    > I prefer my Sn60Pb40 (…) The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right.\n
    \n
    Yeah, those were horrid. Even the supposedly excellent SAC305 gave me dull joints (tough it flowed adequately). Still, I can only recommend Sn100Ni+ (supposedly closely related to [SN100C](https://hackaday.com/2020/01/28/lead-free-solder-alloys-their-properties-and-best-types-for-daily-use/)): flows well and gives me the shiny joints I crave. Having a good soldering iron (I’m using a [Pinecil](https://www.pine64.org/pinecil/)) helps with solderability.\n
    \n
    I do however still have some rosin core Sn60Pb40 for reworking vintage electronics. And I do agree that it’s just *better* when it comes to wetting ability. The peace of mind when working with lead-free solder really is worth it though, especially with pets or small children.
    """
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28 DENIED moderate 
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
      """
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              Easy, you import this puppy [www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748](https://www.ebay.com/itm/305042665748) and set up your own business offering calibration services to recoup the cost. Then you can apply for the calibration engineer position at Minerva.\n
              \n
              Jokes aside, have you contacted a calibration lab? I don’t know what it’s going to cost, but I can’t think of another way, if you’re not going to built the sources yourself. There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
              \n
              It would seem from a quick google that I’m not alone in my conclusion. But at least I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need [wolfalex.bplaced.net/…/calibrator.htm](http://wolfalex.bplaced.net/electronics/cal/calibrator.htm)
              """
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            > have you contacted a calibration lab? (…) There’s one in the Netherlands [www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/)\n
            \n
            Their [pricing](https://www.minerva-calibration.com/calibration-service/electrical-calibration/fluke-calibrations/) for calibrating a device starts at around €400, which is rather more than I paid for this thing and way more expensive than building my own calibrator. So I guess I’ll have to do that…\n
            \n
            > (…) I have found an article explaining the build of the sources you need\n
            \n
            Thank you! Not having to invent everything from scratch is going to make this a *lot* easier.
            """
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        +body: """
          400? I guess that’s in the ballpark I expected it to be.\n
          \n
          I haven’t studied the BOM for the DIY solution, but something tells me that you’ll only be able to keep the cost lower than 400, if you value your time at close to zero.\n
          \n
          With all that negativity out of the way, I’d definitely want to build it myself too. Although my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory. Be careful with the build!
          """
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        > my anxiety level is exponentially correlated to the working DC voltage and at 300VDC I’m definitely well in the thick rubbergloves territory.\n
        \n
        Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
        \n
        Looking at the schematic you linked above, the amperage is going to be low, which is reassuring. As a safety measure, I’m looking into running the thing off of a battery, so that if the worst comes to pass it simply won’t have the power to be dangerous (1A at 12V translates to a mere 40mA at 300V).\n
        \n
        I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).
        """
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      > Having been walloped by 230VAC, which is far more dangerous, I’m not too worried.\n
      \n
      Well hello there Mr Edison, I didn’t realize the calendar read the 1880s again, please refrain from elephant ownership 😀 First off if you’ve got 300V I don’t care what form it’s in, I ain’t sticking my fingers anywhere near it! Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving. The reason 230V AC is so dangerous is because it’s usually referenced to ground, meaning that if you touch a single wire, you’ll be drawing a current from that point and to your feet.\n
      \n
      But that is all theoretical, because while 300V is stored, and the current may become quite high, it’s only backed by 100nF. Still, I’d want it discharged before poking about though.\n
      \n
      The battery is a good precaution. Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
      \n
      > I’d be far more worried about using lead solder TBH (love my Sn100Ni+).\n
      \n
      I may be a boomer in this regard, and I’m sorry for the rant I’m about to go on (that last part of the sentence was tagged on after writing the following). I prefer my Sn60Pb40 of which I got several kg from when it was outlawed, maybe throw in a little Ag in there for the 0.3mm SMD solder. TBH my love of lead solder may stem from the fact that I have more, in various diameters, than I’ll ever use.\n
      \n
      The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right. It didn’t help that the solder stations it was to be used with at work, by students, was old school Weller stations that just delivers a constant 24V AC to the iron, and the tips set the temp. All the tips we had were at a temp comfortable for lead solder.\n
      \n
      But I digress… if you just wash your hands after soldering (and maybe use a bit of ventilation) then your absorption of lead is harmless [ehs.harvard.edu/…/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf](https://www.ehs.harvard.edu/sites/default/files/soldering_safety_guidelines.pdf)
      """
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    > Secondly at least AC alternates, giving your muscles a break and possibly a chance to let go of the wire, DC isn’t that forgiving.\n
    \n
    Interesting. Your comment made me read up on all of this. Note that, since V~rms~ = 1 ÷ √2 × V~peak~, 230VAC has a V~peak~ of 325V, so in that respect, it should be pretty much equivalent to 300VDC. I figured that the ability for AC to induce heart fibrillations was the most dangerous factor in all of this, but I hadn’t figured in that DC induces tetanus and can also temporarily stop the heart.\n
    \n
    It’s not the volts that kill you though, it’s the amps (the volts just make it easier). I found [a table](https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-3/ohms-law-again/) listing the effects of various amperages. It does present DC as generally more safe when compared against 60Hz AC, but I’m not sure how that generalises to the 50Hz AC we have here. I do conclude however that I should be limiting the output current to something something generally safe, like 20mA (which should be fine for a voltage reference). I’m thinking a PTC at the input and being conservative wrt capacitor sizing should do it.\n
    \n
    > Some of my co-students in university made an EKG apparatus. Our lecturer demanded that anything connected to the electrodes was to be powered by a single battery.\n
    \n
    TBH, when it comes to an EKG apparatus I’d also be worried about common mode across the chest, or the power supply [having a disastrous failure mode](https://hackaday.com/2021/05/19/repairing-a-vintage-hp-9825-the-hard-way/).\n
    \n
    > I prefer my Sn60Pb40 (…) The first couple of lead free solder brands I got just didn’t flow right.\n
    \n
    Yeah, those were horrid. Even the supposedly excellent SAC305 gave me dull joints (tough it flowed adequately). Still, I can only recommend Sn100Ni+ (supposedly closely related to [SN100C](https://hackaday.com/2020/01/28/lead-free-solder-alloys-their-properties-and-best-types-for-daily-use/)): flows well and gives me the shiny joints I crave. Having a good soldering iron (I’m using a [Pinecil](https://www.pine64.org/pinecil/)) helps with solderability.\n
    \n
    I do however still have some rosin core Sn60Pb40 for reworking vintage electronics. And I do agree that it’s just *better* when it comes to wetting ability. The peace of mind when working with lead-free solder really is worth it though, especially with pets or small children.
    """
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      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
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      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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34 DENIED moderate 
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    The problem however is that the Philips requires a large amount of references to calibrate against (just calibrating DC voltage requires 0V, 3V, 30V *and* 300V references). Building all references to recalibrate the whole thing would be rather involved, so I was trying to find an easier way.
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
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    The device is supposedly a 6½ digit DMM yet I currently don’t even trust the first few digits when comparing it to a 3½ digit handheld Brymen DMM. Being reasonably sure that it’s at least more accurate than the Brymen would be nice, so 3½ digits.\n
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    I’ve got another desktop DMM, a 5½ digit GW Instek GDM-8255A, on the way, so I could conceivably just use that one as my local “standard” to calibrate against.\n
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        Rules\n
        -----\n
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      I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
      \n
      Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
      \n
      Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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    The device is supposedly a 6½ digit DMM yet I currently don’t even trust the first few digits when comparing it to a 3½ digit handheld Brymen DMM. Being reasonably sure that it’s at least more accurate than the Brymen would be nice, so 3½ digits.\n
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    I’ve got another desktop DMM, a 5½ digit GW Instek GDM-8255A, on the way, so I could conceivably just use that one as my local “standard” to calibrate against.\n
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
37 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\Magazine {#264
  +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#245 …}
  +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
  +title: "askelectronics"
  +description: """
    **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
    \n
    Rules\n
    -----\n
    \n
    1: Be nice.\n
    \n
    2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
    \n
    3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
    \n
    4: Be safe.\n
    \n
    ---
    """
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  +entryCommentCount: 1230
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#274
    date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +markedForDeletionAt: null
  +tags: null
  +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#236 …}
  +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#232 …}
  +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
  +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
  +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#137 …}
  +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#199 …}
  +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#116 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#102 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#80 …}
  +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#70 …}
  +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1360 …}
  +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1792 …}
  -id: 11
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  +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
  +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
  +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
  +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
  +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
  +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
  +apDiscoverable: true
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    date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
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  +visibility: "visible             "
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#270
    date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details