GET https://kbin.spritesserver.nl/index.php/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/comments/top?p=13

Response
200 OK
IP
216.73.216.108
Profiled on
Token
6164e5

Security

Token

There is no security token.

Firewall

main Name
Security enabled
Stateless

Configuration

Key Value
provider security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context main
entry_point App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler (none)
access_denied_url (none)
authenticators 
[
  "two_factor"
  "remember_me"
  "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"
]

Listeners

Listener Duration Response 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -httpPort: 80
  -httpsPort: 443
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …}
  -sessionKey: "_security_main"
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …}
  -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
  -registered: false
  -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …}
  -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}
}
 4.89 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584
  -authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582
  -twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …}
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}
}
 0.05 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …}
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none) 
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -options: [
    "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token"
    "csrf_token_id" => "logout"
    "logout_path" => "app_logout"
  ]
  -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …}
  -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …}
  -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
}
 0.00 ms (none)

Authenticators

No authenticators have been recorded. Check previous profiles on your authentication endpoint.

Access Decision

affirmative Strategy
# Voter class
1 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

Access decision log

# Result Attributes Object
1 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
2 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1765
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1516 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1474 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#305
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#286 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#313
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#277 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#273 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#262 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#220 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#178 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#240 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#157 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#143 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#121 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#111 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#100 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#87 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#314
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#308
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "The second issue could be a software issue and the first could be a driver issue, so I’d start by reinstalling Windows and installing the latest driver for your specific GPU"
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1705215420 {#1541
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@RAM@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1472 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1470 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1755 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1491 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1706 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1463 …}
  -id: 307197
  -bodyTs: "'could':4,12 'd':19 'driver':15,28 'first':11 'gpu':32 'instal':25 'issu':3,8,16 'latest':27 'reinstal':22 'second':2 'softwar':7 'specif':31 'start':20 'window':23"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://lemmy.ml/comment/7358416"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1705215420 {#1483
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
3 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1765
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1516 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1474 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#305
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#286 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#313
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#277 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#273 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#262 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#220 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#178 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#240 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#157 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#143 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#121 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#111 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#100 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#87 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#314
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#308
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "The second issue could be a software issue and the first could be a driver issue, so I’d start by reinstalling Windows and installing the latest driver for your specific GPU"
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1705215420 {#1541
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@RAM@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1472 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1470 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1755 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1491 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1706 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1463 …}
  -id: 307197
  -bodyTs: "'could':4,12 'd':19 'driver':15,28 'first':11 'gpu':32 'instal':25 'issu':3,8,16 'latest':27 'reinstal':22 'second':2 'softwar':7 'specif':31 'start':20 'window':23"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://lemmy.ml/comment/7358416"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1705215420 {#1483
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
4 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1765
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1516 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1474 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#305
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#286 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#313
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#277 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#273 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#262 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#220 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#178 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#240 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#157 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#143 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#121 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#111 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#100 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#87 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#314
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#308
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "The second issue could be a software issue and the first could be a driver issue, so I’d start by reinstalling Windows and installing the latest driver for your specific GPU"
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1705215420 {#1541
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@RAM@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1472 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1470 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1755 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1491 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1706 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1463 …}
  -id: 307197
  -bodyTs: "'could':4,12 'd':19 'driver':15,28 'first':11 'gpu':32 'instal':25 'issu':3,8,16 'latest':27 'reinstal':22 'second':2 'softwar':7 'specif':31 'start':20 'window':23"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://lemmy.ml/comment/7358416"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1705215420 {#1483
    date: 2024-01-14 07:57:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
5 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
6 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1707
  +user: App\Entity\User {#2452 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1720 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#305
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#286 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#313
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#277 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#273 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#262 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#220 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#178 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#240 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#157 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#143 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#121 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#111 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#100 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#87 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#314
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#308
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    The drains in the 8205 MOSFET are connected together internally. In a DW01 circuit, they are not connected to anything else.  \n
    One MOSFET stops the battery from charging and the other stops it from discharging.
    """
  +lang: "en"
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    Yes that I found as well but have/had trouble understanding why it would be built like this. Also why a MOSFET would be designed internally like this. If you want more power capability you’d get a bigger MOSFET rather than two tiny ones in parallel right?\n
    \n
    This page helped me understand the setup. I’ll post it here just for informational purpose. It took me a while to find this. […stackexchange.com/…/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-ba…](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/203463/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-battery-protection-circuit)\n
    \n
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    \n
    It seems they don’t really prevent discharging or charging separately due to the body diodes but they can cut off the battery alltogether.
    """
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11 DENIED edit 
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    This page helped me understand the setup. I’ll post it here just for informational purpose. It took me a while to find this. […stackexchange.com/…/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-ba…](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/203463/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-battery-protection-circuit)\n
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    Yes that I found as well but have/had trouble understanding why it would be built like this. Also why a MOSFET would be designed internally like this. If you want more power capability you’d get a bigger MOSFET rather than two tiny ones in parallel right?\n
    \n
    This page helped me understand the setup. I’ll post it here just for informational purpose. It took me a while to find this. […stackexchange.com/…/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-ba…](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/203463/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-battery-protection-circuit)\n
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    The MOSFETs are in series, but in opposite polarities. Two MOSFETs are needed to block current in both directions.\n
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    The DW01 uses the voltage drop across the MOSFETS to measure the current. The overcurrent threshold voltage is fixed at 150mV. Using a larger MOSFET that has a lower RDS(on) will increase the current limit.
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        The drains in the 8205 MOSFET are connected together internally. In a DW01 circuit, they are not connected to anything else.  \n
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      Yes that I found as well but have/had trouble understanding why it would be built like this. Also why a MOSFET would be designed internally like this. If you want more power capability you’d get a bigger MOSFET rather than two tiny ones in parallel right?\n
      \n
      This page helped me understand the setup. I’ll post it here just for informational purpose. It took me a while to find this. […stackexchange.com/…/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-ba…](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/203463/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-battery-protection-circuit)\n
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      It’s related to the internal body diode of the N channel mosfet, so two of them are in series but reversed. When one MOSFET is activated, current may flow easily in one direction but be reduced by the body diode of the other. When both are activated, current may flow easily in either direction.\n
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      It seems they don’t really prevent discharging or charging separately due to the body diodes but they can cut off the battery alltogether.
      """
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    The MOSFETs are in series, but in opposite polarities. Two MOSFETs are needed to block current in both directions.\n
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    The DW01 uses the voltage drop across the MOSFETS to measure the current. The overcurrent threshold voltage is fixed at 150mV. Using a larger MOSFET that has a lower RDS(on) will increase the current limit.
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      Yes that I found as well but have/had trouble understanding why it would be built like this. Also why a MOSFET would be designed internally like this. If you want more power capability you’d get a bigger MOSFET rather than two tiny ones in parallel right?\n
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      This page helped me understand the setup. I’ll post it here just for informational purpose. It took me a while to find this. […stackexchange.com/…/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-ba…](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/203463/dual-mosfet-8205a-lithium-battery-protection-circuit)\n
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    The MOSFETs are in series, but in opposite polarities. Two MOSFETs are needed to block current in both directions.\n
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
17 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
18 DENIED moderate 
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    While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
    \n
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    \n
    If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
19 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2019
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
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    While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
    \n
    As a hobbyist, contributing to junk with lead in the world is something that’s been bugging me for some time. Additionally, it feels silly but there’s also a certain relief in not having to worry as much about contamination between my workbench and the rest of my environment.\n
    \n
    If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
    """
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
20 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2019
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  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#305
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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    While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
    \n
    As a hobbyist, contributing to junk with lead in the world is something that’s been bugging me for some time. Additionally, it feels silly but there’s also a certain relief in not having to worry as much about contamination between my workbench and the rest of my environment.\n
    \n
    If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
    """
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}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
21 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
22 DENIED moderate 
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
      \n
      As a hobbyist, contributing to junk with lead in the world is something that’s been bugging me for some time. Additionally, it feels silly but there’s also a certain relief in not having to worry as much about contamination between my workbench and the rest of my environment.\n
      \n
      If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
      """
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    That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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    This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
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      While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
      \n
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    That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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    This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
    \n
    I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
    """
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      While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
      \n
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    That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
    \n
    This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
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    I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
    """
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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        While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
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      That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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        While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
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      That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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      That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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      This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
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      I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
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          While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
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          If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
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        That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
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        This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
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        I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
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    350°C, although I occasionally turn it down to 325 when I don’t need the extra heat.\n
    \n
    When I was using my older, cheaper solder, I had the iron maxed out at 420 and that wouldn’t melt or flow easily
    """
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          While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
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          If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
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      +body: """
        That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
        \n
        This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
        \n
        I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
        """
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        date: 2023-12-29 19:30:42.0 +01:00
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    }
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    +body: "What temperature are you using?"
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  +body: """
    350°C, although I occasionally turn it down to 325 when I don’t need the extra heat.\n
    \n
    When I was using my older, cheaper solder, I had the iron maxed out at 420 and that wouldn’t melt or flow easily
    """
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}
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
32 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3234
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3142 …}
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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        +body: """
          While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.\n
          \n
          As a hobbyist, contributing to junk with lead in the world is something that’s been bugging me for some time. Additionally, it feels silly but there’s also a certain relief in not having to worry as much about contamination between my workbench and the rest of my environment.\n
          \n
          If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
          """
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      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2019}
      +body: """
        That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.\n
        \n
        This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.\n
        \n
        I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
        """
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  +body: """
    350°C, although I occasionally turn it down to 325 when I don’t need the extra heat.\n
    \n
    When I was using my older, cheaper solder, I had the iron maxed out at 420 and that wouldn’t melt or flow easily
    """
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Show voter details
33 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
34 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2314
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
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      \n
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  +body: "The navy gave me a spool like 5+ years ago. It has no label. They were going to trash it. I have no idea whatsoever what its composition is. It’s rosin core and that’s about all I know. I also have a few different gauges of safety wire and shear wire."
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
35 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2314
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
36 DENIED moderate 
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      Rules\n
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}
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
37 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
38 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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}
 
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
39 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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}
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
40 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2121
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      Rules\n
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
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41 DENIED ROLE_USER 
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Show voter details
42 DENIED moderate 
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
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Show voter details
43 DENIED edit 
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
44 DENIED moderate 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
45 DENIED ROLE_USER 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
46 DENIED moderate 
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    Give me good ole rosin core 60/40 lead solder any day.\n
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    Admittedly I’ve never used any “good” lead free solder.
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48 DENIED moderate 
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    Give me good ole rosin core 60/40 lead solder any day.\n
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    Admittedly I’ve never used any “good” lead free solder.
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49 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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50 DENIED moderate 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
51 DENIED edit 
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    I’ve been playing with ESP32 lately. I’m frankly kind of shocked at how well documented the API is and how well it all works. And it’s mostly open. I haven’t done anything with ESP32 Cams I bought, yet. No idea what is possible there or where to start.\n
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55 DENIED edit 
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      You might want to check out OpenMV Cam which does some cool machine vision stuff and runs MicroPython.\n
      \n
      I would probably start looking at OpenCV software for RasPi if you need more processing power.\n
      \n
      I’ve been playing with ESP32 lately. I’m frankly kind of shocked at how well documented the API is and how well it all works. And it’s mostly open. I haven’t done anything with ESP32 Cams I bought, yet. No idea what is possible there or where to start.\n
      \n
      Hopefully that helps.\n
      \n
      Meanwhile I’m over here trying to wrap up a simple Bluetooth-enabled amp project for the last couple months lol. I should do more with machine vision.
      """
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  +body: "I’ve noticed that outside of the fixed use cases and their combination, it is surprisingly difficult to make ESP32 do something. For example, i wanted to crop and apply simple filters on videos being streamed from an ESP32 Cam. Should be doable for a setup that can do facial recognition and AI stuff, right? Clearly not without writing your own libraries."
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57 DENIED ROLE_USER 
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58 DENIED moderate 
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      You might want to check out OpenMV Cam which does some cool machine vision stuff and runs MicroPython.\n
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      I’ve been playing with ESP32 lately. I’m frankly kind of shocked at how well documented the API is and how well it all works. And it’s mostly open. I haven’t done anything with ESP32 Cams I bought, yet. No idea what is possible there or where to start.\n
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    PS: to me RPi is overkill for all but the most intense compute requirements. So is the esp32 to a lesser degree. Don’t always need 240MHz dual core RISC with FreeRTOS and 2.4G radio…\n
    \n
    I default to Arduino, usually attiny devices for simple, low power stuff. I am really liking the new TinyAVR line. Quicker programming, way more functionality, etc.
    """
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59 DENIED edit 
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    PS: to me RPi is overkill for all but the most intense compute requirements. So is the esp32 to a lesser degree. Don’t always need 240MHz dual core RISC with FreeRTOS and 2.4G radio…\n
    \n
    I default to Arduino, usually attiny devices for simple, low power stuff. I am really liking the new TinyAVR line. Quicker programming, way more functionality, etc.
    """
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60 DENIED moderate 
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      You might want to check out OpenMV Cam which does some cool machine vision stuff and runs MicroPython.\n
      \n
      I would probably start looking at OpenCV software for RasPi if you need more processing power.\n
      \n
      I’ve been playing with ESP32 lately. I’m frankly kind of shocked at how well documented the API is and how well it all works. And it’s mostly open. I haven’t done anything with ESP32 Cams I bought, yet. No idea what is possible there or where to start.\n
      \n
      Hopefully that helps.\n
      \n
      Meanwhile I’m over here trying to wrap up a simple Bluetooth-enabled amp project for the last couple months lol. I should do more with machine vision.
      """
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    PS: to me RPi is overkill for all but the most intense compute requirements. So is the esp32 to a lesser degree. Don’t always need 240MHz dual core RISC with FreeRTOS and 2.4G radio…\n
    \n
    I default to Arduino, usually attiny devices for simple, low power stuff. I am really liking the new TinyAVR line. Quicker programming, way more functionality, etc.
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61 DENIED ROLE_USER 
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62 DENIED moderate 
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63 DENIED edit 
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Show voter details
64 DENIED moderate 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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Show voter details
65 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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Show voter details
66 DENIED moderate 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
67 DENIED edit 
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      -----\n
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
68 DENIED moderate 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3038
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
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70 DENIED moderate 
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    From a conceptual perspective, very low quiescent current (aka idle/standby current) when unactivated is entirely achievable. What your design will need to do is assess how much each component will draw at idle, and if it’s too high, then you may need to have gates which turn off those high-draw components when idling.\n
    \n
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    \n
    For the 555 itself, you mention an astable oscillating configuration, although I’m wondering what your intention for the 555 is. Ostensibly, the DFPlayer either needs a brief pulse to start playing (roughly “edge triggered”) or needs to be kept active for as long as the music should be playing (roughly “level triggered”). In either case, a 555 in a one-shot configuration would make sense, since an astable oscillator would imply the music would restart on its own every so often.\n
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    If you’re insisting on the 555, then you may not be able to access the sleep mode in the DFPlayer Mini. So your option might be to gate the DFPlayer so that it only gets Vcc power when the 555 supplies it, probably using a MOSFET. Alternatively, using a cheap microcontroller would let you control the DFPlayer Mini via serial. Your microcontroller could then also receive the signal from the vibration switch and come out of deep sleep to issue commands to the DDPlayer.\n
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    The ATTiny uC and MSP430 uC families can draw as low as microamps or even nanoamps in some low-power modes. So that neatly addresses the standby current.\n
    \n
    What you’ll also have to assess is the active current, or how much the music player draws when it runs for however long. This should give you an idea of the total lifetime for your application on a single battery charge.
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    From a conceptual perspective, very low quiescent current (aka idle/standby current) when unactivated is entirely achievable. What your design will need to do is assess how much each component will draw at idle, and if it’s too high, then you may need to have gates which turn off those high-draw components when idling.\n
    \n
    From a cursory Google Search, the DFPlayer Mini datasheet shows a standby power of 20 mA, which far too high. A forum post shows that if the sleep mode is enabled using the serial interface, current drops to 0.4 uA. This is much better.\n
    \n
    For the 555 itself, you mention an astable oscillating configuration, although I’m wondering what your intention for the 555 is. Ostensibly, the DFPlayer either needs a brief pulse to start playing (roughly “edge triggered”) or needs to be kept active for as long as the music should be playing (roughly “level triggered”). In either case, a 555 in a one-shot configuration would make sense, since an astable oscillator would imply the music would restart on its own every so often.\n
    \n
    If you’re insisting on the 555, then you may not be able to access the sleep mode in the DFPlayer Mini. So your option might be to gate the DFPlayer so that it only gets Vcc power when the 555 supplies it, probably using a MOSFET. Alternatively, using a cheap microcontroller would let you control the DFPlayer Mini via serial. Your microcontroller could then also receive the signal from the vibration switch and come out of deep sleep to issue commands to the DDPlayer.\n
    \n
    The ATTiny uC and MSP430 uC families can draw as low as microamps or even nanoamps in some low-power modes. So that neatly addresses the standby current.\n
    \n
    What you’ll also have to assess is the active current, or how much the music player draws when it runs for however long. This should give you an idea of the total lifetime for your application on a single battery charge.
    """
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72 DENIED moderate 
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    From a conceptual perspective, very low quiescent current (aka idle/standby current) when unactivated is entirely achievable. What your design will need to do is assess how much each component will draw at idle, and if it’s too high, then you may need to have gates which turn off those high-draw components when idling.\n
    \n
    From a cursory Google Search, the DFPlayer Mini datasheet shows a standby power of 20 mA, which far too high. A forum post shows that if the sleep mode is enabled using the serial interface, current drops to 0.4 uA. This is much better.\n
    \n
    For the 555 itself, you mention an astable oscillating configuration, although I’m wondering what your intention for the 555 is. Ostensibly, the DFPlayer either needs a brief pulse to start playing (roughly “edge triggered”) or needs to be kept active for as long as the music should be playing (roughly “level triggered”). In either case, a 555 in a one-shot configuration would make sense, since an astable oscillator would imply the music would restart on its own every so often.\n
    \n
    If you’re insisting on the 555, then you may not be able to access the sleep mode in the DFPlayer Mini. So your option might be to gate the DFPlayer so that it only gets Vcc power when the 555 supplies it, probably using a MOSFET. Alternatively, using a cheap microcontroller would let you control the DFPlayer Mini via serial. Your microcontroller could then also receive the signal from the vibration switch and come out of deep sleep to issue commands to the DDPlayer.\n
    \n
    The ATTiny uC and MSP430 uC families can draw as low as microamps or even nanoamps in some low-power modes. So that neatly addresses the standby current.\n
    \n
    What you’ll also have to assess is the active current, or how much the music player draws when it runs for however long. This should give you an idea of the total lifetime for your application on a single battery charge.
    """
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73 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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74 DENIED moderate 
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    I haven’t done a course in electromagnetism yet, but as far as I understand, the ferrite core is just a piece of metal with no magnetic field, so moving it doesn’t induce a voltage\n
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    I think it would, however, change the inductance, just like the iron core in a transformer does
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Show voter details
75 DENIED edit 
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
76 DENIED moderate 
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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    I haven’t done a course in electromagnetism yet, but as far as I understand, the ferrite core is just a piece of metal with no magnetic field, so moving it doesn’t induce a voltage\n
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    I think it would, however, change the inductance, just like the iron core in a transformer does
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
77 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
78 DENIED moderate 
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      I haven’t done a course in electromagnetism yet, but as far as I understand, the ferrite core is just a piece of metal with no magnetic field, so moving it doesn’t induce a voltage\n
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    [lemmy.one/comment/4791215](https://lemmy.one/comment/4791215)
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  +body: "Depending on the power consumption, you may consider not using thermal relief while connecting thermal vias for the chip (component 57) to ground layers. But this may make soldering harder so do it only if needed. Thermal vias are so close that they form 3 long dents in 3v3 plane. It is good practice to put vias a little far apart so that planes can go through between vias. This can be important since sometimes lowest impedance can be obtained when current is flowing between those vias. If you don’t need to fit 15 vias there, you may consider reducing the number and separating them a bit. You can also check the design rules for minimum copper width and minimum via clearance for your manufacturer and enter them in your CAD tool."
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85 DENIED ROLE_USER 
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86 DENIED moderate 
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
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Show voter details
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    Depending on your setup and build maybe several transformers would be better. Or you add all up to 960W trafo.
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
88 DENIED moderate 
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    +title: "askelectronics"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    When I look around then this amp, taking your statement with the rectifier, needs symetrical AC supply as an input.\n
    \n
    For a mono amp the transformer would be 120W / 2x25V per amp. You need more because of the loss the amp includes\n
    \n
    Depending on your setup and build maybe several transformers would be better. Or you add all up to 960W trafo.
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
89 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
90 DENIED moderate 
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    +body: """
      When I look around then this amp, taking your statement with the rectifier, needs symetrical AC supply as an input.\n
      \n
      For a mono amp the transformer would be 120W / 2x25V per amp. You need more because of the loss the amp includes\n
      \n
      Depending on your setup and build maybe several transformers would be better. Or you add all up to 960W trafo.
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      date: 2023-10-25 09:11:40.0 +02:00
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  +body: """
    The idea is to have an 8-channel power amplifier in one box …\n
    \n
    I still have to source the right trafo, but one large one would be both lighter and cheaper (new) than, say 4 small ones. An argument to use multiple would potentially be that peaks on individual channels might have less impact on the other channels. Still working on it …
    """
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
91 DENIED edit 
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3069
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    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    +image: null
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    +root: null
    +body: """
      When I look around then this amp, taking your statement with the rectifier, needs symetrical AC supply as an input.\n
      \n
      For a mono amp the transformer would be 120W / 2x25V per amp. You need more because of the loss the amp includes\n
      \n
      Depending on your setup and build maybe several transformers would be better. Or you add all up to 960W trafo.
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      date: 2023-10-25 09:11:40.0 +02:00
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    The idea is to have an 8-channel power amplifier in one box …\n
    \n
    I still have to source the right trafo, but one large one would be both lighter and cheaper (new) than, say 4 small ones. An argument to use multiple would potentially be that peaks on individual channels might have less impact on the other channels. Still working on it …
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
92 DENIED moderate 
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      When I look around then this amp, taking your statement with the rectifier, needs symetrical AC supply as an input.\n
      \n
      For a mono amp the transformer would be 120W / 2x25V per amp. You need more because of the loss the amp includes\n
      \n
      Depending on your setup and build maybe several transformers would be better. Or you add all up to 960W trafo.
      """
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    The idea is to have an 8-channel power amplifier in one box …\n
    \n
    I still have to source the right trafo, but one large one would be both lighter and cheaper (new) than, say 4 small ones. An argument to use multiple would potentially be that peaks on individual channels might have less impact on the other channels. Still working on it …
    """
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    There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
    \n
    CV power supplies are the standard: constant voltage. It outputs say 12V, and trips when overcurrent. A CC supply would limit current to say, 20A. It does so by dynamically adjusting the voltage output to match that target. That’s a lot less common and usually used for battery charging or testing/troubleshooting. So, I guess, don’t plug it on a battery charger.\n
    \n
    It should come with specs as to what input it can take. Follow the recommendations. If it says DC give it DC unless you’re absolutely sure of the circuit in there. The presence of a rectifier and caps doesn’t tell you much given it’s an amplifier, it could be part of the amp circuit for the MOSFETs and not its power supply.
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    There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
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    There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
    \n
    CV power supplies are the standard: constant voltage. It outputs say 12V, and trips when overcurrent. A CC supply would limit current to say, 20A. It does so by dynamically adjusting the voltage output to match that target. That’s a lot less common and usually used for battery charging or testing/troubleshooting. So, I guess, don’t plug it on a battery charger.\n
    \n
    It should come with specs as to what input it can take. Follow the recommendations. If it says DC give it DC unless you’re absolutely sure of the circuit in there. The presence of a rectifier and caps doesn’t tell you much given it’s an amplifier, it could be part of the amp circuit for the MOSFETs and not its power supply.
    """
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Show voter details
97 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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Show voter details
98 DENIED moderate 
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      \n
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      -----\n
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      \n
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      There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
      \n
      CV power supplies are the standard: constant voltage. It outputs say 12V, and trips when overcurrent. A CC supply would limit current to say, 20A. It does so by dynamically adjusting the voltage output to match that target. That’s a lot less common and usually used for battery charging or testing/troubleshooting. So, I guess, don’t plug it on a battery charger.\n
      \n
      It should come with specs as to what input it can take. Follow the recommendations. If it says DC give it DC unless you’re absolutely sure of the circuit in there. The presence of a rectifier and caps doesn’t tell you much given it’s an amplifier, it could be part of the amp circuit for the MOSFETs and not its power supply.
      """
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}
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
99 DENIED edit 
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    +title: "askelectronics"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    +image: null
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    +body: """
      There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
      \n
      CV power supplies are the standard: constant voltage. It outputs say 12V, and trips when overcurrent. A CC supply would limit current to say, 20A. It does so by dynamically adjusting the voltage output to match that target. That’s a lot less common and usually used for battery charging or testing/troubleshooting. So, I guess, don’t plug it on a battery charger.\n
      \n
      It should come with specs as to what input it can take. Follow the recommendations. If it says DC give it DC unless you’re absolutely sure of the circuit in there. The presence of a rectifier and caps doesn’t tell you much given it’s an amplifier, it could be part of the amp circuit for the MOSFETs and not its power supply.
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}
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
100 DENIED moderate 
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
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      There will be loss in the process so you should go a little above. You also need to account for the efficiency curve of your power supply: is it best efficient at 80% load? 90% load? Can it handle 120% momentarily in case of a spike?\n
      \n
      CV power supplies are the standard: constant voltage. It outputs say 12V, and trips when overcurrent. A CC supply would limit current to say, 20A. It does so by dynamically adjusting the voltage output to match that target. That’s a lot less common and usually used for battery charging or testing/troubleshooting. So, I guess, don’t plug it on a battery charger.\n
      \n
      It should come with specs as to what input it can take. Follow the recommendations. If it says DC give it DC unless you’re absolutely sure of the circuit in there. The presence of a rectifier and caps doesn’t tell you much given it’s an amplifier, it could be part of the amp circuit for the MOSFETs and not its power supply.
      """
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  +body: "Well, it says to use a toroidal transformer between 12V to 32V output, and looking at pictures of other people who bought it, it seems to work on AC directly, so I have high confidence that that’s what it is."
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    I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
    \n
    It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
    \n
    See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
    \n
    Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
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    Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
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    It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
    \n
    See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
    \n
    Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
    \n
    Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
    """
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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    I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
    \n
    It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
    \n
    See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
    \n
    Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
    \n
    Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
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106 DENIED moderate 
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    +title: "askelectronics"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
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      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
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    +body: """
      I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
      \n
      It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
      \n
      See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
      \n
      Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
      \n
      Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
      """
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      date: 2023-10-19 23:58:15.0 +02:00
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    I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
    \n
    The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
    \n
    The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
    \n
    By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
    """
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
107 DENIED edit 
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    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
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      \n
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      \n
      ---
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    +body: """
      I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
      \n
      It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
      \n
      See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
      \n
      Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
      \n
      Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
      """
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      date: 2023-10-19 23:58:15.0 +02:00
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  +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2931}
  +body: """
    I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
    \n
    The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
    \n
    The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
    \n
    By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
    """
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Show voter details
108 DENIED moderate 
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    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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    +body: """
      I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
      \n
      It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
      \n
      See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
      \n
      Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
      \n
      Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
      """
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  +body: """
    I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
    \n
    The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
    \n
    The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
    \n
    By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
    """
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS DENIED 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
109 DENIED ROLE_USER 
null
 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN 
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 ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
110 DENIED moderate 
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
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      +image: null
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      +body: """
        I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
        \n
        It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
        \n
        See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
        \n
        Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
        \n
        Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
        """
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        date: 2023-10-19 23:58:15.0 +02:00
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    +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2931}
    +body: """
      I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
      \n
      The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
      \n
      The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
      \n
      By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
      """
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    Wow awesome, thank you for the info and resources! I have to follow the links later but I really appreciate the reply.\n
    \n
    I don’t think OP’s strips have pixel control since in my experience you wouldn’t have a separate USB power line that bypasses the controller like OP is describing, but now am curious and hope they follow up.
    """
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        I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
        \n
        It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
        \n
        See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
        \n
        Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
        \n
        Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
        """
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      I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
      \n
      The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
      \n
      The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
      \n
      By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
      """
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  +body: """
    Wow awesome, thank you for the info and resources! I have to follow the links later but I really appreciate the reply.\n
    \n
    I don’t think OP’s strips have pixel control since in my experience you wouldn’t have a separate USB power line that bypasses the controller like OP is describing, but now am curious and hope they follow up.
    """
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        I’m slightly confused by your question. Are you trying to power two thingies off a twofer adapter, or are you trying to multiplex something?\n
        \n
        It sounds like you’re just trying to do power so:\n
        \n
        See how much each strip draws (either via data sheet of amps per meter times 0.69, or measure it) and if that amount exceeds the capacity of the adapters you want to use, it’ll either not work or shorten the life of the gizmos (or if it’s really cheap crap or you’ve gone way the heck over the capacity of any component it might catch fire a bit).\n
        \n
        Note the current on the datasheet wont be linear per length, but for 27” chonks if should be close enough.\n
        \n
        Edit: I see now your LEDs are 3V. Personally I’d recommend replacing them with 12 or 24V, or *at least* 5V to run properly on the 5V thing you’re plugging them into. Why did you go with 3V product?
        """
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    +body: """
      I am assuming the LEDs are white (blue with yellow phosphor), which **always** have a roughly 3V voltage drop, this is just a physical fact. Some chips like those in LED bulbs have several LEDs in series for a voltage drop of 6/9/12/15/18 V but this is not the case here.\n
      \n
      The vast majority of 5V strips have no step-down switching power supply (aka constant current buck converter) to reduce 5 V from the power rails to 3 V, instead just driving the LEDs with a resistor in series – it drops 2 V and if it’s a 100Ω resistor (usually [labeled “101”](https://kiloohm.info/smd3-resistor/101)), it lets 20 mA to the LED [as per Ohm’s law](https://ohmslaw.eu/Ohms_law/2-V_100-ohm_-A). In practice, multiple LEDs are often in parallel to one resistor to save cost, in which case the current divides among them.\n
      \n
      The strip may be RGB, in which case the LED voltages are 🔴1.8 V 🟢2.4-3.0 V 🔵3 V and pretty much the same applies. There may be an external controller but it usually just uses PWM to pulse the 5V rail of each color rather than adjusting the current. Individually cntrollable LED strips have a chip driving each LED, and there is just one power rail and serial data line between them.\n
      \n
      By the way, the resistance of the strip’s power rails may be significant. If this is the case, do this: [www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCsDZK0tJvU&t=393)
      """
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  +body: """
    Wow awesome, thank you for the info and resources! I have to follow the links later but I really appreciate the reply.\n
    \n
    I don’t think OP’s strips have pixel control since in my experience you wouldn’t have a separate USB power line that bypasses the controller like OP is describing, but now am curious and hope they follow up.
    """
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