Symfony Profiler

Key	Value
provider	security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context	main
entry_point	App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker	App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler	(none)
access_denied_url	(none)
authenticators	[`"two_factor" "remember_me" "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator" "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator" "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator" "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator" "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"`]

Listener	Duration	Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723`-map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …} -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -httpPort: 80 -httpsPort: 443`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …} -sessionKey: "_security_main" -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …} -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …} -registered: false -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …} -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}}	0.86 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584`-authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582`-twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …} -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}`}	0.04 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …} -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -options: [ "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token" "csrf_token_id" => "logout" "logout_path" => "app_logout" ] -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …} -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …} -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)

#	Voter class
1	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2	"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5	"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6	"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7	"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8	"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9	"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10	"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11	"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12	"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13	"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14	"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

1

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

2

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1767
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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  +title: "What's a simplest way to get -5v from +/-12v?"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
    \n
    TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
    """
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3

DENIED

edit

App\Entity\Entry {#1767
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1447 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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  +title: "What's a simplest way to get -5v from +/-12v?"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
    \n
    TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
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}

4

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1767
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1447 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
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      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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      4: Be safe.\n
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    Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
    \n
    TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
    """
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5

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

6

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1700
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1697 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
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      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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      4: Be safe.\n
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      """
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7

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8

DENIED

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9

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11

DENIED

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12

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13

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14

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15

DENIED

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16

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19

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23

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24

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moderate

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25

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26

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27

DENIED

edit

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28

DENIED

moderate

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35

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36

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37

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39

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40

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43

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44

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47

DENIED

edit

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48

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49

DENIED

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    [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
    \n
    This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
    \n
    I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
    \n
    However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
    \n
    Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
    \n
    I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
    """
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51

DENIED

edit

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    I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
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    [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
    \n
    This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
    \n
    I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
    \n
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    \n
    I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
    """
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    I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
    \n
    When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
    \n
    To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
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    I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack.  \n
    [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
    \n
    This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
    """
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56

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59

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60

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68

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71

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    My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    """
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    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
    \n
    Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
    """
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  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/0f232f11-9887-42e5-ba59-6aed360e08a0.jpeg"
  +body: """
    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
    \n
    Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
    """
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    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
    \n
    Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
    """
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    I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
    \n
    I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
    \n
    ```\n
    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
    <span style="color:#323232;">       On\n
    </span><span style="color:#323232;">       |\n
    </span>\n
    ```\n
    \n
    (On) - Off - (On)\n
    \n
    I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
    \n
    I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
    \n
    Thanks in advance!
    """
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79

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    I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
    \n
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    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
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    \n
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    I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
    \n
    I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
    \n
    ```\n
    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
    <span style="color:#323232;">       On\n
    </span><span style="color:#323232;">       |\n
    </span>\n
    ```\n
    \n
    (On) - Off - (On)\n
    \n
    I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
    \n
    I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
    \n
    Thanks in advance!
    """
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83

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    So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
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84

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    So I wanted to design a children's toy, where the electronics could last 100 years (ignoring mechanical abuse). I figured some people here might be interested.\n
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    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    I kept assembly simple. A better design would snap right in to the pins of the CR2032 holder, but that's an addition I'll make another day. I also should have added one more ground pad to solder to, but forgot. Still, an OK result I think.\n
    \n
    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/c89f001b-7f44-4d5b-9e9c-f1da5e97dae0.jpeg)\n
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    I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
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92

DENIED

moderate

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93

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ROLE_USER

null

94

DENIED

moderate

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95

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edit

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96

DENIED

moderate

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97

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ROLE_USER

null

98

DENIED

moderate

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100

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101

DENIED

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