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App\Entity\Entry {#1759
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Rules\n
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
2 questions:\n
\n
1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
\n
Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
"""
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App\Entity\Entry {#1759
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
2 questions:\n
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1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
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Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
"""
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1759
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
\n
2 questions:\n
\n
1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
\n
Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
"""
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1693
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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+body: """
I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
\n
Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
"""
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Show voter details
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1693
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I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
\n
Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
"""
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/0f232f11-9887-42e5-ba59-6aed360e08a0.jpeg"
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I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
\n
Please no prejudice on that oscilloscope, it’s good for what its made for, it’s “calibrated”, it shows a clean square waveform on my simple diy dimmer ([photo](https://imgur.com/Cd1ezm8) to let you see what I mean with simple) versus what is shown in the video with the AliExpress one, an hybrid ramp/square. In the first part I show one of those LED strip that doesn’t work, in the second part I show one that does work, just like every other light or motor I’ve tried
"""
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\Entry {#1646
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4855](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4855)\n
\n
with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
\n
Any sources for this?
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Rules\n
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
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[www.adafruit.com/product/4855](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4855)\n
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with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
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12 |
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
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with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
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15 |
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I bought a random cheap crystal oscillator off AliX. It was advertised as a “constant temperature crystal reference”.\n
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16 |
DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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I bought a random cheap crystal oscillator off AliX. It was advertised as a “constant temperature crystal reference”.\n
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17 |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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Both devices turn on and the controls seemingly work, but I never get anything more than a flat line or random noise on the scope.\n
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
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cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
\n
> Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
> \n
> I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
> \n
> Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
> \n
> I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
> \n
> Thanks!\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
"""
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cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
\n
> Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
> \n
> I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
> \n
> Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
> \n
> I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
> \n
> Thanks!\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
"""
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cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
\n
> Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
> \n
> I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
> \n
> Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
> \n
> I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
> \n
> Thanks!\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
> \n
> [](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n

"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
---
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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n

"""
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Show voter details
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36 |
DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n

"""
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Show voter details
|
37 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
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null |
|
Show voter details
|
38 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1728
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "project-idea-for-low-power-motion-triggered-r2d2-sound-source"
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+url: null
+body: """
hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
"""
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39 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1728
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
"""
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Show voter details
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40 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1728
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
"""
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Show voter details
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41 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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42 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1716
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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The purpose of this PCB is to be small, have ok RF performance, and use USB as main power-source and interface. (Off course it has UART if USB is not available) this is just a somewhat challenge I set myself to design a esp32 PCB with the IC without a already made module.\n
\n
Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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43 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1716
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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The purpose of this PCB is to be small, have ok RF performance, and use USB as main power-source and interface. (Off course it has UART if USB is not available) this is just a somewhat challenge I set myself to design a esp32 PCB with the IC without a already made module.\n
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Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
Ignoring all of the many many other problems with doing this for now the one thing I’m not sure about is how well the electrolytic caps on the various components would survive. I would need to pull a fairly hard (500 micron) vacuum on everything before I charge it with refrigerant. I know most electolytic caps aren’t vacuum rated but I’m not sure if that just means you can’t have them operating in a vacuum or if they will immediately pop if you just subject them to hard vaccum period. Additionally while I am planning on using a low pressure refrigerant (probably some R-123 substitute but I’m definitely still working on that part) the components would all still be subject to pressures of up to about 20 PSIG at the high end. Beyond that point I would probably have an active cooling system kick in just for safety sake. I’m not sure how well the caps in particular would survive being immersed in a liquid under 20 PSIG pressure.\n
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Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
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\n
Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
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DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
Ignoring all of the many many other problems with doing this for now the one thing I’m not sure about is how well the electrolytic caps on the various components would survive. I would need to pull a fairly hard (500 micron) vacuum on everything before I charge it with refrigerant. I know most electolytic caps aren’t vacuum rated but I’m not sure if that just means you can’t have them operating in a vacuum or if they will immediately pop if you just subject them to hard vaccum period. Additionally while I am planning on using a low pressure refrigerant (probably some R-123 substitute but I’m definitely still working on that part) the components would all still be subject to pressures of up to about 20 PSIG at the high end. Beyond that point I would probably have an active cooling system kick in just for safety sake. I’m not sure how well the caps in particular would survive being immersed in a liquid under 20 PSIG pressure.\n
\n
Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
"""
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I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
\n
I’ve gotten some Amphenol Mini-PV 47649-000LF, which are amazing and are close-enough to being compatible with a standard dupont housing. But it’s a hassle to crimp the wires myself, especially when I just need another female-female 6in wire.\n
\n
Lots of stuff on the internet, but it’s impossible to tell when it’s actually good and when they just repackaged AliExpress. Anyone have a vendor they’ve had good experiences with? Ideally multi-color, but I’m flexible on that.
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Rules\n
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I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
\n
I’ve gotten some Amphenol Mini-PV 47649-000LF, which are amazing and are close-enough to being compatible with a standard dupont housing. But it’s a hassle to crimp the wires myself, especially when I just need another female-female 6in wire.\n
\n
Lots of stuff on the internet, but it’s impossible to tell when it’s actually good and when they just repackaged AliExpress. Anyone have a vendor they’ve had good experiences with? Ideally multi-color, but I’m flexible on that.
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52 |
DENIED
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App\Entity\Entry {#2359
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
\n
I’ve gotten some Amphenol Mini-PV 47649-000LF, which are amazing and are close-enough to being compatible with a standard dupont housing. But it’s a hassle to crimp the wires myself, especially when I just need another female-female 6in wire.\n
\n
Lots of stuff on the internet, but it’s impossible to tell when it’s actually good and when they just repackaged AliExpress. Anyone have a vendor they’ve had good experiences with? Ideally multi-color, but I’m flexible on that.
"""
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53 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1708
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Hi all\n
\n
I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
\n
There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
\n
This may or may not be a bit overengineered but I want to leave this system running pretty much autonomously with several layers of safety. A Chinese BMS on its own is not good enough and a professional one is outside my budget. Also the learning process is worth the effort.\n
\n
Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
\n
There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1384
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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60 |
DENIED
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Rules\n
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61 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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62 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2026
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Show voter details
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63 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2026
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
|
64 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2026
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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|
Show voter details
|
65 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
66 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2036
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2037 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
this is the link: https://old.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/73f8d2/microwave_control_panel_keypad_stops_working_when/\n
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i'd use google's cache page but it doesn't have this cached.
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67 |
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this is the link: https://old.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/73f8d2/microwave_control_panel_keypad_stops_working_when/\n
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i'd use google's cache page but it doesn't have this cached.
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Show voter details
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68 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2036
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Rules\n
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I have a few old posts on the subreddit and i need to view one of them as i am reviving an old project. there is a comment on one of them that has the info i need. I never screenshotted that info.\n
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i'd use google's cache page but it doesn't have this cached.
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69 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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70 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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71 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2077
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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72 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2077
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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73 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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74 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2130
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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77 |
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Show voter details
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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80 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
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\n
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- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
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- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
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- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
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- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
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Rules\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
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\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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with no further updates for 40 minutes so far. I am on a 16 core system with 24GB of ram (the process is maxing out 1 core right now as well as using 6GB RAM). Why is it not progressing…\n
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I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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\n
Rules\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
\n
`[95%] Generate netlist file “/home/original2/Downloads/Gowin_V1.9.8.09_Education_linux/IDE/bin/VGA_out/impl/gwsynthesis/VGA_out.vg” completed`\n
\n
with no further updates for 40 minutes so far. I am on a 16 core system with 24GB of ram (the process is maxing out 1 core right now as well as using 6GB RAM). Why is it not progressing…\n
\n
I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
"""
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Show voter details
|
92 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2057
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
\n
`[95%] Generate netlist file “/home/original2/Downloads/Gowin_V1.9.8.09_Education_linux/IDE/bin/VGA_out/impl/gwsynthesis/VGA_out.vg” completed`\n
\n
with no further updates for 40 minutes so far. I am on a 16 core system with 24GB of ram (the process is maxing out 1 core right now as well as using 6GB RAM). Why is it not progressing…\n
\n
I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
"""
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93 |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2102
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
Icon 2, by @Double_A has duly been adopted.
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Show voter details
|
95 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2102
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
---
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Thanks for all your votes and comments. From the icons that were submitted as requested, the results were as follows:\n
\n
- Icon 1: 7\n
- Icon 2: 78\n
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- Icon 4: 6\n
\n
Icon 2, by @Double_A has duly been adopted.
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Show voter details
|
96 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2102
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2109 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Thanks for all your votes and comments. From the icons that were submitted as requested, the results were as follows:\n
\n
- Icon 1: 7\n
- Icon 2: 78\n
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\n
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|
Show voter details
|
97 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
98 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2119
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2116 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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+slug: "Can-anyone-suggest-a-SP3T-Toggle-switch"
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+url: null
+body: """
I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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Show voter details
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100 |
DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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I am looking for a Toggle switch that will allow me to actuate an actuator manually, or otherwise set the actuator to an ‘automatic’ mode, logic for which which I am coding on an arduino. The switch I want should have momentary On’s for manual trimming that will spring back to an Off position, or it can be left in another maintained On position to signify the automatic logic should take over.\n
\n
I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
\n
```\n
<pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
<span style="color:#323232;"> On\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> |\n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
(On) - Off - (On)\n
\n
I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
\n
I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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Show voter details
|
101 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
---
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