Redirect 302 redirect from GET @entry_comment_create (397d88)

GET https://kbin.spritesserver.nl/index.php/u/@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de/commented?p=2

Security

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Firewall

main Name
Security enabled
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Configuration

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Access Decision

affirmative Strategy
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1
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"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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Show voter details
2 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2043 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2207 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
  +slug: "Non-Inverting-LM358-Circuit-Not-Working"
  +title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/4e44ba5a-c8c2-485d-a6cf-9a89d2fd9670.jpeg"
  +body: """
    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
    \n
    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
    \n
    My questions are as follows:\n
    \n
    1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
    2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
    """
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    date: 2023-07-11 19:01:02.0 +02:00
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  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2270 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2257 …}
  +children: [
    1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2047
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045 …}
      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2073
        +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
        +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068 …2}
        +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
        +image: null
        +parent: null
        +root: null
        +body: """
          Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
          \n
          So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
          \n
          So, if you can find a course in analogue electronics, even a distance learning one, you might find the steps are smaller and more easy to assimilate.
          """
        +lang: "en"
        +isAdult: false
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        +lastActive: DateTime @1688161946 {#2136
          date: 2023-06-30 23:52:26.0 +02:00
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          "@Drich98@discuss.tchncs.de"
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        +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2072 …}
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        -id: 5898
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        +ranking: 0
        +commentCount: 0
        +upVotes: 0
        +downVotes: 0
        +visibility: "visible             "
        +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/485010"
        +editedAt: null
        +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688113392 {#2137
          date: 2023-06-30 10:23:12.0 +02:00
        }
        +"title": 5898
      }
      +body: """
        What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
        \n
        Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
        \n
        So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1688161945 {#2059
        date: 2023-06-30 23:52:25.0 +02:00
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      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@Drich98@discuss.tchncs.de"
        "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2057 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2055 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2054 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2053 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2165 …}
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      +ranking: 0
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      +visibility: "visible             "
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  -id: 526
  -titleTs: "'circuit':5 'invert':3 'lm358':4 'non':2 'non-invert':1 'work':7"
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    date: 2023-06-29 15:23:54.0 +02:00
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   …2
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
3 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2043 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2207 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
  +slug: "Non-Inverting-LM358-Circuit-Not-Working"
  +title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/4e44ba5a-c8c2-485d-a6cf-9a89d2fd9670.jpeg"
  +body: """
    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
    \n
    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
    \n
    My questions are as follows:\n
    \n
    1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
    2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
    """
  +type: "image"
  +lang: "en"
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  +hasEmbed: true
  +commentCount: 13
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    date: 2023-07-11 19:01:02.0 +02:00
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2210 …}
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  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2204 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2270 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2257 …}
  +children: [
    1 => App\Entity\EntryComment {#2047
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2045 …}
      +root: App\Entity\EntryComment {#2073
        +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
        +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2068 …2}
        +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
        +image: null
        +parent: null
        +root: null
        +body: """
          Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
          \n
          So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
          \n
          So, if you can find a course in analogue electronics, even a distance learning one, you might find the steps are smaller and more easy to assimilate.
          """
        +lang: "en"
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        +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2072 …}
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        +ranking: 0
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        +editedAt: null
        +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688113392 {#2137
          date: 2023-06-30 10:23:12.0 +02:00
        }
        +"title": 5898
      }
      +body: """
        What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
        \n
        Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
        \n
        So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
        """
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      +favouriteCount: 2
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1688161945 {#2059
        date: 2023-06-30 23:52:25.0 +02:00
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        "@Susan_B_Good@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2057 …}
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      -id: 6127
      -bodyTs: "'anyon':11 'back':109 'board':91 'build':28 'chips/etc':74 'circuit':18 'could':118 'depart':43 'design':53,56,84 'didn':102 'differ':90 'document':97 'effect':99 'els':12 'especi':49 'etc':95 'exist':17 'expect':106 'fault':57 'feedback':80 'get':30 'guard':93 'hasn':35 'help':48 'keep':130 'layout':92 'littl':135 'manufactur':26,39 'may':6 'misprint':61 'modifi':82,131 'often':45 'one':22 'play':76 'pre':72 'pre-product':71 'product':73 'provid':23,79 'refer':21,52 'ring':94 'see':115 'send':68 'someth':126 'sometim':33 'support':42,113 'take':15,125 'tech':112 'technic':41 'test':86 'took':107 'tri':89 'understand':88 'unmark':70 'use':66 'usual':19 'work':2,32,37,104,119,128"
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        date: 2023-06-30 23:52:25.0 +02:00
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  +title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
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    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
    \n
    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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    2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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          Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
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          So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
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        What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
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      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
      \n
      Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
      """
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    What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
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      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
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      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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          So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
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    What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
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      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
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      Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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          Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
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    What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
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      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
      \n
      Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
      \n
      My questions are as follows:\n
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      1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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          What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
          \n
          Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
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          So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
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    Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
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    So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
    \n
    So, if you can find a course in analogue electronics, even a distance learning one, you might find the steps are smaller and more easy to assimilate.
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    +title: "Non-Inverting LM358 Circuit Not Working"
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    +body: """
      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
      \n
      Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
      \n
      My questions are as follows:\n
      \n
      1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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          What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
          \n
          Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
          \n
          So, for me, taking something that works and keep modifying it, just a little.
          """
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    Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
    \n
    So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
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    So, if you can find a course in analogue electronics, even a distance learning one, you might find the steps are smaller and more easy to assimilate.
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      Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
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      Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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      1. Is the ground for the voltage rail and input signal the same?\n
      2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
      3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
      """
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          What worked for me, that may not do so for anyone else - is to take an existing circuit (usually a reference one provided by a manufacturer) and build that. Get that working (sometimes, it hasn’t worked- the manufacturer’s technical support department has often been very helpful, especially when their reference design has a design fault or has been misprinted - after doing that, they used to send me unmarked, pre-production chips/etc to play with and provide feedback).\n
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          Then modified that design, to test my understanding. Tried different board layouts, guard rings, etc and documented the effect. When it didn’t work as expected - took that back to their tech support to see if we could work out why.\n
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    Just a word of caution - education is a process of diminishing deception. Books provide a simplified version of real World electronics. Universities and colleges put a lot of effort into designing lab practicals that will actually work and give the predictable results that students expect.\n
    \n
    So the normal learning process when it comes to op amps - is to read and understand the theory. Then complete those crafted lab practical exercises - having been introduced to the added complication of systemic and random errors. Then do your own thing, when all the remaining Real Life complications hit you like a brick.\n
    \n
    So, if you can find a course in analogue electronics, even a distance learning one, you might find the steps are smaller and more easy to assimilate.
    """
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  +body: "I'm planning to add a momentary switch to a single loop DC circuit. Will this cause any amount of resistance in the circuit? I'm a complete noobie when it comes to electronics, any resource links or clarification is appreciated. I know the type of material/width of wire and a pot will cause resistance but will any component put in line with the circuit cause resistance, and if so how do I go about measuring the resistance for each component within the circuit?"
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      +body: """
        That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
        \n
        It should be fine for your application.\n
        \n
        One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.\n
        \n
        That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.\n
        \n
        You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
        """
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        That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
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        You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
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        That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
        \n
        It should be fine for your application.\n
        \n
        One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.\n
        \n
        That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.\n
        \n
        You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
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18 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1739
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    +slug: "What-creates-resistance-in-a-circuit"
    +title: "What creates resistance in a circuit?"
    +url: null
    +body: "I'm planning to add a momentary switch to a single loop DC circuit. Will this cause any amount of resistance in the circuit? I'm a complete noobie when it comes to electronics, any resource links or clarification is appreciated. I know the type of material/width of wire and a pot will cause resistance but will any component put in line with the circuit cause resistance, and if so how do I go about measuring the resistance for each component within the circuit?"
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    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687224236 {#2524
      date: 2023-06-20 03:23:56.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687223726 {#2503
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  +image: null
  +parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2364 …}
  +root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2361 …}
  +body: """
    That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
    \n
    It should be fine for your application.\n
    \n
    One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.\n
    \n
    That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.\n
    \n
    You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
    """
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    "@jjagaimo@lemmy.ca"
    "@HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca"
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19 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1739
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    +slug: "What-creates-resistance-in-a-circuit"
    +title: "What creates resistance in a circuit?"
    +url: null
    +body: "I'm planning to add a momentary switch to a single loop DC circuit. Will this cause any amount of resistance in the circuit? I'm a complete noobie when it comes to electronics, any resource links or clarification is appreciated. I know the type of material/width of wire and a pot will cause resistance but will any component put in line with the circuit cause resistance, and if so how do I go about measuring the resistance for each component within the circuit?"
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    +cross: false
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    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687224236 {#2524
      date: 2023-06-20 03:23:56.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687223726 {#2503
      date: 2023-06-20 03:15:26.0 +02:00
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     …2
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  +image: null
  +parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2364 …}
  +root: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2361 …}
  +body: """
    That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
    \n
    It should be fine for your application.\n
    \n
    One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.\n
    \n
    That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.\n
    \n
    You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
    """
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    "@jjagaimo@lemmy.ca"
    "@HewlettHackard@lemmy.ca"
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20 DENIED moderate
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    +slug: "What-creates-resistance-in-a-circuit"
    +title: "What creates resistance in a circuit?"
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    +body: "I'm planning to add a momentary switch to a single loop DC circuit. Will this cause any amount of resistance in the circuit? I'm a complete noobie when it comes to electronics, any resource links or clarification is appreciated. I know the type of material/width of wire and a pot will cause resistance but will any component put in line with the circuit cause resistance, and if so how do I go about measuring the resistance for each component within the circuit?"
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      date: 2023-06-20 03:23:56.0 +02:00
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  +body: """
    That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.\n
    \n
    It should be fine for your application.\n
    \n
    One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.\n
    \n
    That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.\n
    \n
    You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
    """
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    date: 2023-06-20 10:43:09.0 +02:00
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Show voter details
21 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
22 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
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    I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
    \n
    Which made me wonder: are there any dangers to protect myself against? I know about lead, so I'll take precautions when desoldering things. Is there anything else to be aware of? Some fumes, other toxic materials, ...?\n
    \n
    I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
    """
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        Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
        I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
        \n
        Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
        \n
        You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
        """
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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Show voter details
23 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
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    I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
    \n
    Which made me wonder: are there any dangers to protect myself against? I know about lead, so I'll take precautions when desoldering things. Is there anything else to be aware of? Some fumes, other toxic materials, ...?\n
    \n
    I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
    """
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      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
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        Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
        I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
        \n
        Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
        \n
        You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
        """
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   …2
}
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
24 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2453
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    I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
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    \n
    I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
    """
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        Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
        I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
        \n
        Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
        \n
        You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
        """
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   …2
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Show voter details
25 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
26 DENIED moderate
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      I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
      \n
      Which made me wonder: are there any dangers to protect myself against? I know about lead, so I'll take precautions when desoldering things. Is there anything else to be aware of? Some fumes, other toxic materials, ...?\n
      \n
      I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
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      date: 2023-06-20 22:00:39.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
    I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
    \n
    Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
    \n
    You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
    """
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App\Entity\EntryComment {#2452
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
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    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
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    +title: "Safety tips when disassembling old electronics?"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
      \n
      Which made me wonder: are there any dangers to protect myself against? I know about lead, so I'll take precautions when desoldering things. Is there anything else to be aware of? Some fumes, other toxic materials, ...?\n
      \n
      I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
      """
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    +cross: false
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      date: 2023-06-20 22:00:39.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
    I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
    \n
    Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
    \n
    You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
    """
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28 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2452
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
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    +slug: "Safety-tips-when-disassembling-old-electronics"
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    +url: null
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      I'm taking apart a broken tape recorder produced in the 70s (a Tesla B57, made in Czechoslovakia), to harvest some parts (inductors, switches, ...) and maybe reuse the case for some project.\n
      \n
      Which made me wonder: are there any dangers to protect myself against? I know about lead, so I'll take precautions when desoldering things. Is there anything else to be aware of? Some fumes, other toxic materials, ...?\n
      \n
      I'm not planning to connect the device to power in any way, so from an electrical perspective there should be nothing to worry about (except for caps maybe). Am I wrong?
      """
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    +cross: false
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      date: 2023-06-20 22:00:39.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.  \n
    I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).\n
    \n
    Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.\n
    \n
    You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
    """
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29 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
30 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1874
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1980 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "boosted-18650-circuit-parallel-or-series-Or-doesn-t-matter"
  +title: "boosted 18650 circuit - parallel or series? Or doesn't matter?"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
    Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
  +type: "article"
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    date: 2023-12-03 11:15:48.0 +01:00
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      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1874 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
        \n
        For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
        \n
        You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
        \n
        But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
        """
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        date: 2023-06-23 09:31:41.0 +02:00
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        "@nirurin@discuss.tchncs.de"
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    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
    Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
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        The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
        \n
        For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
        \n
        You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
        \n
        But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
        """
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  +slug: "boosted-18650-circuit-parallel-or-series-Or-doesn-t-matter"
  +title: "boosted 18650 circuit - parallel or series? Or doesn't matter?"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
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    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
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      +parent: null
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        The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
        \n
        For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
        \n
        You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
        \n
        But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
        """
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      Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
      \n
      Ok so I have the following -\n
      \n
      A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
      \n
      Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
      \n
      A 12v LED strip.\n
      \n
      The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
      \n
      1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
      2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
      \n
      Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
      \n
      I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
      \n
      Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
      \n
      Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
      \n
      Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
      """
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    The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
    \n
    For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
    \n
    You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
    \n
    But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
    """
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      Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
      \n
      Ok so I have the following -\n
      \n
      A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
      \n
      Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
      \n
      A 12v LED strip.\n
      \n
      The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
      \n
      1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
      2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
      \n
      Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
      \n
      I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
      \n
      Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
      \n
      Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
      \n
      Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
      """
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    The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
    \n
    For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
    \n
    You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
    \n
    But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
    """
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      Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
      \n
      Ok so I have the following -\n
      \n
      A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
      \n
      Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
      \n
      A 12v LED strip.\n
      \n
      The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
      \n
      1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
      2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
      \n
      Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
      \n
      I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
      \n
      Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
      \n
      Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. > Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
      \n
      Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
      """
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    The standard countryside yokel reply when asked for directions applies, " Arrh, If you need to get to *there*, I wouldn't be starting from *here*".\n
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    For battery powered LED lighting - you shouldn't be using 12v LED strips. You should be using bare LEDs and a constant current supply. Converting cell voltage to 12v, only to use (probably) resistors to limit LED current isn't the way to go.\n
    \n
    You will lose far more, efficiency wise, starting from there, than you are worrying about losing in the series or parallel considerations.\n
    \n
    But then, you'd design the required power source and then the charger associated with it - not start with a charger, which then constrains your battery pack topology.
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        You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
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        Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
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        The most current that can put out is the full 5v across 20 ohms - but at that point the output voltage will be near zero.\n
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        Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.\n
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        Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
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        You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
        \n
        Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
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        The most current that can put out is the full 5v across 20 ohms - but at that point the output voltage will be near zero.\n
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        Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.\n
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        Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
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        You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
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        Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
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    You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
    \n
    Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
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    \n
    Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.\n
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    Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
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    You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
    \n
    Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
    \n
    The most current that can put out is the full 5v across 20 ohms - but at that point the output voltage will be near zero.\n
    \n
    Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.\n
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    Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
    """
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    You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).\n
    \n
    Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.\n
    \n
    The most current that can put out is the full 5v across 20 ohms - but at that point the output voltage will be near zero.\n
    \n
    Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.\n
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    Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
46 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
  +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
    \n
    To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
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  +hasEmbed: false
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687738146 {#2500
    date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
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  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2505 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2508 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2510 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2512 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2514 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2516 …}
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    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
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      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
        \n
        DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
        \n
        Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
        \n
        My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
        \n
        An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
        """
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      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
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        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
      }
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      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
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      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
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      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1906 …}
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        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
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    date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
  }
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   …2
}
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
47 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
  +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
    \n
    To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 6
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687738146 {#2500
    date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2505 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2508 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2510 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2512 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2514 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2516 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
        \n
        DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
        \n
        Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
        \n
        My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
        \n
        An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
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        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
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      +mentions: [
        "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2382 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2383 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1906 …}
      -id: 1476
      -bodyTs: "'3.3':20 '5v':22 'accept':41 'adapt':27 'alreadi':4 'box':75 'breakout':74 'capabl':39 'charact':65 'come':84 'connect':58,100 'connector':9 'db9':29 'dupont':8 'echo':71 'equat':10,30 'even':17,45 'first':52 'general':35 'get':70 'given':80 'happen':90 'least':37 'level':13,33,44 'link':23 'logic':12 'may':16 'much':78 'necess':81 'necessarili':48 'pin':94 'pretti':77 'probabl':2 'produc':49 'rs232':32,73 'rx':61 'see':63 'selector':24 'signal':14,34 'sort':86,96 'step':53 'suss':5 'tend':54 'terminal/emulator':69 'tx':59 'type':66 'v':21 'voltag':43 'wherea':28"
      +ranking: 0
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      +editedAt: null
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687429431 {#1740
        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
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  -id: 197
  -titleTs: "'debug':3 'sbc':1 'troubleshoot':4 'uart':2"
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  +cross: false
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  +ranking: 1687416528
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  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#1358
    date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
48 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
  +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
    \n
    To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
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  +hasEmbed: false
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687738146 {#2500
    date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2505 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2508 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2510 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2512 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2514 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2516 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
        \n
        DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
        \n
        Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
        \n
        My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
        \n
        An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
        """
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      +isAdult: false
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        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
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        "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
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      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
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      +editedAt: null
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687429431 {#1740
        date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
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  -titleTs: "'debug':3 'sbc':1 'troubleshoot':4 'uart':2"
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  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#1358
    date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
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Show voter details
49 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
50 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
    +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
      \n
      To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
      """
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    -id: 197
    -titleTs: "'debug':3 'sbc':1 'troubleshoot':4 'uart':2"
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    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687416528
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/214368"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#1358
      date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
    \n
    DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
    \n
    Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
    \n
    My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
    \n
    An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
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    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2382 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2383 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1906 …}
  -id: 1476
  -bodyTs: "'3.3':20 '5v':22 'accept':41 'adapt':27 'alreadi':4 'box':75 'breakout':74 'capabl':39 'charact':65 'come':84 'connect':58,100 'connector':9 'db9':29 'dupont':8 'echo':71 'equat':10,30 'even':17,45 'first':52 'general':35 'get':70 'given':80 'happen':90 'least':37 'level':13,33,44 'link':23 'logic':12 'may':16 'much':78 'necess':81 'necessarili':48 'pin':94 'pretti':77 'probabl':2 'produc':49 'rs232':32,73 'rx':61 'see':63 'selector':24 'signal':14,34 'sort':86,96 'step':53 'suss':5 'tend':54 'terminal/emulator':69 'tx':59 'type':66 'v':21 'voltag':43 'wherea':28"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/321465"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687429431 {#1740
    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 1476
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
51 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
    +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
      \n
      To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
      """
    +type: "article"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: false
    +commentCount: 6
    +favouriteCount: 1
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
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      date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
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    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2514 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2516 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359}
    ]
    -id: 197
    -titleTs: "'debug':3 'sbc':1 'troubleshoot':4 'uart':2"
    -bodyTs: "'5':86 'academ':117 'adapt':26,60,92 'almost':87 'annoy':82 'appropri':19 'assum':72 'baud':51 'bpi':8 'bpi-r3':7 'certain':88 'connect':11 'connector':100 'consol':45 'counterfeit':89 'db9':23 'debug':14 'differ':50 'direct':16 'dupont':99 'end':97,104 'fine':108 'garbl':40 'get':38 'gnd':31,32 'high':57 'keyspan':61 'know':122 'like':120 'linux':68 'lite':63 'm':36,54,74,125 'make':79 'matter':80 'mess':41 'miss':75 'most':116 'one':96 'pin':15,20 'point':4,112 'problem':114 'qualiti':58 'r3':9 'rate':52 'right':1 'rx':27,30 'serial':25,44,59,91 'someth':76 'stupid':77 'though':128 'tri':48,66 'tripp':62 'tx':28,29 'uart':13 'usb':24,90,94 'use':55 've':47,65 'window':70 'work':33,107 'would':119 'wrong':127"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687416528
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/214368"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#1358
      date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
    \n
    DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
    \n
    Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
    \n
    My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
    \n
    An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
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    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
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  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2382 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2383 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1906 …}
  -id: 1476
  -bodyTs: "'3.3':20 '5v':22 'accept':41 'adapt':27 'alreadi':4 'box':75 'breakout':74 'capabl':39 'charact':65 'come':84 'connect':58,100 'connector':9 'db9':29 'dupont':8 'echo':71 'equat':10,30 'even':17,45 'first':52 'general':35 'get':70 'given':80 'happen':90 'least':37 'level':13,33,44 'link':23 'logic':12 'may':16 'much':78 'necess':81 'necessarili':48 'pin':94 'pretti':77 'probabl':2 'produc':49 'rs232':32,73 'rx':61 'see':63 'selector':24 'signal':14,34 'sort':86,96 'step':53 'suss':5 'tend':54 'terminal/emulator':69 'tx':59 'type':66 'v':21 'voltag':43 'wherea':28"
  +ranking: 0
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  +visibility: "visible             "
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  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687429431 {#1740
    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 1476
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
52 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2372
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1982 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "SBC-UART-debug-troubleshooting"
    +title: "SBC UART debug troubleshooting"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Right to the point: On a BPI-R3, should connecting the UART debug pins directly to the appropriate pins on a DB9 USB serial adapter (rx->tx, tx->rx, gnd->gnd) work? Because I’m just getting a garbled mess in my serial console. I’ve tried all different baud rates. I’m using a high quality serial adapter (Keyspan Tripp Lite). I’ve tried on Linux and Windows. I assume I’m missing something stupid.\n
      \n
      To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
      """
    +type: "article"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: false
    +commentCount: 6
    +favouriteCount: 1
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
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    +lastActive: DateTime @1687738146 {#2500
      date: 2023-06-26 02:09:06.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
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    +tags: null
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    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2505 …}
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    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2512 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2514 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2516 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2359}
    ]
    -id: 197
    -titleTs: "'debug':3 'sbc':1 'troubleshoot':4 'uart':2"
    -bodyTs: "'5':86 'academ':117 'adapt':26,60,92 'almost':87 'annoy':82 'appropri':19 'assum':72 'baud':51 'bpi':8 'bpi-r3':7 'certain':88 'connect':11 'connector':100 'consol':45 'counterfeit':89 'db9':23 'debug':14 'differ':50 'direct':16 'dupont':99 'end':97,104 'fine':108 'garbl':40 'get':38 'gnd':31,32 'high':57 'keyspan':61 'know':122 'like':120 'linux':68 'lite':63 'm':36,54,74,125 'make':79 'matter':80 'mess':41 'miss':75 'most':116 'one':96 'pin':15,20 'point':4,112 'problem':114 'qualiti':58 'r3':9 'rate':52 'right':1 'rx':27,30 'serial':25,44,59,91 'someth':76 'stupid':77 'though':128 'tri':48,66 'tripp':62 'tx':28,29 'uart':13 'usb':24,90,94 'use':55 've':47,65 'window':70 'work':33,107 'would':119 'wrong':127"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687416528
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/214368"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687382528 {#1358
      date: 2023-06-21 23:22:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You probably have already sussed this - but:\n
    \n
    DuPont connectors equates to logic level signals. There may even be a 3.3 v <>5v link selector on the adapter.\n
    \n
    Whereas DB9 equates to "RS232" level signals. Generally, at least the capability to accept those voltage levels, even if not necessarily producing them.\n
    \n
    My first step tends to be to connect tx to rx and see if characters typed in a terminal/emulator get echoed.\n
    \n
    An RS232 breakout box is pretty much a given necessity, when it comes to sorting out what's happening on all those pins and sorting out what to connect to what.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687429431 {#1707
    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@MaximGun@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2380 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2382 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2384 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2379 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2383 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1906 …}
  -id: 1476
  -bodyTs: "'3.3':20 '5v':22 'accept':41 'adapt':27 'alreadi':4 'box':75 'breakout':74 'capabl':39 'charact':65 'come':84 'connect':58,100 'connector':9 'db9':29 'dupont':8 'echo':71 'equat':10,30 'even':17,45 'first':52 'general':35 'get':70 'given':80 'happen':90 'least':37 'level':13,33,44 'link':23 'logic':12 'may':16 'much':78 'necess':81 'necessarili':48 'pin':94 'pretti':77 'probabl':2 'produc':49 'rs232':32,73 'rx':61 'see':63 'selector':24 'signal':14,34 'sort':86,96 'step':53 'suss':5 'tend':54 'terminal/emulator':69 'tx':59 'type':66 'v':21 'voltag':43 'wherea':28"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/321465"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687429431 {#1740
    date: 2023-06-22 12:23:51.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 1476
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
53 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
54 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2022
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2287 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
  +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
    \n
    I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
    \n
    TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687679079 {#2170
    date: 2023-06-25 09:44:39.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
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  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2038 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1985 …}
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  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2022 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
        \n
        I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
        \n
        The long light looks to be fitted for a an IR receiver. With U1 near it possibly the decoder. As they show the thing stuck on a rafter presumably way out of reach - I suspect that 's a picture from the version with an IR controller. They have produced a cheaper version, without the sensor and re-used the photos.\n
        \n
        Now, if that’s how it is - I’d just remove the microcontroller and glue one of my favs upside down on the board and run wires from its pins to the relevant pads (removing the existing microcontroller). I haven’t bought one recently, but 8 pin ones were costing me less than 50p… Having programmed the replacement with an added option to stay on.
        """
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      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 1
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1687639781 {#2032
        date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@allmycircuits@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2018 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2011 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2021 …}
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55 DENIED edit
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
  +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
    \n
    I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
    \n
    TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
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        'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
        \n
        I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
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Show voter details
56 DENIED moderate
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  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
  +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
    \n
    I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
    \n
    TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
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      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
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        'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
        \n
        I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
        \n
        The long light looks to be fitted for a an IR receiver. With U1 near it possibly the decoder. As they show the thing stuck on a rafter presumably way out of reach - I suspect that 's a picture from the version with an IR controller. They have produced a cheaper version, without the sensor and re-used the photos.\n
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        """
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  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/268471"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687585185 {#2182
    date: 2023-06-24 07:39:45.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
57 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
58 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2022
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2287 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
    +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
      \n
      I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
      \n
      TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
      \n
      ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
      """
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      date: 2023-06-25 09:44:39.0 +02:00
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    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2038 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1985 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1994 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2005 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1996 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1993 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024}
    ]
    -id: 402
    -titleTs: "'bypass':2 'help':1 'led':5 'light':6 'timer':3"
    -bodyTs: "'/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':114 '/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':119 '/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':168 '3':78 '30':32,163 'appreci':63 'bigger':96 'bypass':153 'dark':40 'descript':129 'didn':20 'disappoint':97 'discuss.tchncs.de':167 'discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':166 'document':144 'doesn':121 'dr':150 'error':86 'even':95 'figur':49 'first':65 'found':106 'got':83 'great':62 'guid':142 'hardwar':15 'help':59,151 'hi':1 'inconveni':37 'kitchen':12,41 'larger':102 'light':9,73,104,148 'manual':139 'might':51 'min':33,164 'mode':157 'onlin':108 'pack':79 'packag':24 'pictur':66,92 'pleas':165 'power':155 'product':141 'purchas':5 'push':8,72 'push-light':7,71 'read':22 'recent':4 'rectangl':147 'refer':110 'return':46 'room':84 'round':70 'said':26 'save':156 'say':123,134 'second':91 'shut':29,125,159 'small':69 'store':16 'strip':103 'stupid':19 'super':36 'tinker':54 'tl':149 'user':138 've':82 'well':53 'would':60 'www.amazon.com':113,118 'www.amazon.com/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':112 'www.amazon.com/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':117"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687623185
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/268471"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687585185 {#2182
      date: 2023-06-24 07:39:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
    \n
    I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
    \n
    The long light looks to be fitted for a an IR receiver. With U1 near it possibly the decoder. As they show the thing stuck on a rafter presumably way out of reach - I suspect that 's a picture from the version with an IR controller. They have produced a cheaper version, without the sensor and re-used the photos.\n
    \n
    Now, if that’s how it is - I’d just remove the microcontroller and glue one of my favs upside down on the board and run wires from its pins to the relevant pads (removing the existing microcontroller). I haven’t bought one recently, but 8 pin ones were costing me less than 50p… Having programmed the replacement with an added option to stay on.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687639781 {#2032
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@allmycircuits@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2018 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2011 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2021 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2029 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2020 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2027 …}
  -id: 4597
  -bodyTs: "'50p':170 '8':162 'ad':177 'anoth':39 'base':44 'bit':5 'board':14,140 'bought':158 'cheaper':106 'circuit':10 'control':101 'cost':166 'd':55,125 'decod':74 'diagram':11 'effort':7 'exist':153 'fav':135 'fit':62 'fraid':1 'glue':131 'go':34,41 'haven':156 'input':32 'ir':66,100 'led':52 'less':168 'light':58 'littl':4 'long':57 'look':59 'microcontrol':29,129,154 'near':70 'need':17 'one':132,159,164 'option':178 'pad':33,40,150 'photo':116 'pictur':94 'pin':146,163 'possibl':72 'power':50 'presum':84 'produc':8,104 'program':172 'q1':47,48 'ra':54 'rafter':83 're':113 're-us':112 'reach':88 'realli':16 'receiv':67 'recent':160 'relev':149 'remov':127,151 'replac':174 'resistor':45 'run':142 'sensor':110 'show':23,77 'stay':180 'stuck':80 'suspect':90 'switch':37,49 'thing':79 'think':19 'u1':69 'upsid':136 'use':114 'version':97,107 'via':53 'way':85 'wire':143 'without':108"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/379533"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687639781 {#2026
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 4597
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
59 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2022
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2287 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
    +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
      \n
      I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
      \n
      TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
      \n
      ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
      """
    +type: "article"
    +lang: "en"
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    +hasEmbed: false
    +commentCount: 6
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      date: 2023-06-25 09:44:39.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2038 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1985 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1994 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2005 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1996 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1993 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024}
    ]
    -id: 402
    -titleTs: "'bypass':2 'help':1 'led':5 'light':6 'timer':3"
    -bodyTs: "'/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':114 '/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':119 '/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':168 '3':78 '30':32,163 'appreci':63 'bigger':96 'bypass':153 'dark':40 'descript':129 'didn':20 'disappoint':97 'discuss.tchncs.de':167 'discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':166 'document':144 'doesn':121 'dr':150 'error':86 'even':95 'figur':49 'first':65 'found':106 'got':83 'great':62 'guid':142 'hardwar':15 'help':59,151 'hi':1 'inconveni':37 'kitchen':12,41 'larger':102 'light':9,73,104,148 'manual':139 'might':51 'min':33,164 'mode':157 'onlin':108 'pack':79 'packag':24 'pictur':66,92 'pleas':165 'power':155 'product':141 'purchas':5 'push':8,72 'push-light':7,71 'read':22 'recent':4 'rectangl':147 'refer':110 'return':46 'room':84 'round':70 'said':26 'save':156 'say':123,134 'second':91 'shut':29,125,159 'small':69 'store':16 'strip':103 'stupid':19 'super':36 'tinker':54 'tl':149 'user':138 've':82 'well':53 'would':60 'www.amazon.com':113,118 'www.amazon.com/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':112 'www.amazon.com/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':117"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687623185
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/268471"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687585185 {#2182
      date: 2023-06-24 07:39:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
    \n
    I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
    \n
    The long light looks to be fitted for a an IR receiver. With U1 near it possibly the decoder. As they show the thing stuck on a rafter presumably way out of reach - I suspect that 's a picture from the version with an IR controller. They have produced a cheaper version, without the sensor and re-used the photos.\n
    \n
    Now, if that’s how it is - I’d just remove the microcontroller and glue one of my favs upside down on the board and run wires from its pins to the relevant pads (removing the existing microcontroller). I haven’t bought one recently, but 8 pin ones were costing me less than 50p… Having programmed the replacement with an added option to stay on.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687639781 {#2032
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@allmycircuits@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2018 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2011 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2021 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2029 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2020 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2027 …}
  -id: 4597
  -bodyTs: "'50p':170 '8':162 'ad':177 'anoth':39 'base':44 'bit':5 'board':14,140 'bought':158 'cheaper':106 'circuit':10 'control':101 'cost':166 'd':55,125 'decod':74 'diagram':11 'effort':7 'exist':153 'fav':135 'fit':62 'fraid':1 'glue':131 'go':34,41 'haven':156 'input':32 'ir':66,100 'led':52 'less':168 'light':58 'littl':4 'long':57 'look':59 'microcontrol':29,129,154 'near':70 'need':17 'one':132,159,164 'option':178 'pad':33,40,150 'photo':116 'pictur':94 'pin':146,163 'possibl':72 'power':50 'presum':84 'produc':8,104 'program':172 'q1':47,48 'ra':54 'rafter':83 're':113 're-us':112 'reach':88 'realli':16 'receiv':67 'recent':160 'relev':149 'remov':127,151 'replac':174 'resistor':45 'run':142 'sensor':110 'show':23,77 'stay':180 'stuck':80 'suspect':90 'switch':37,49 'thing':79 'think':19 'u1':69 'upsid':136 'use':114 'version':97,107 'via':53 'way':85 'wire':143 'without':108"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
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  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/379533"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687639781 {#2026
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
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  +"title": 4597
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
60 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2022
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2287 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "Help-Bypassing-Timer-on-LED-Lights"
    +title: "Help Bypassing Timer on LED Lights"
    +url: null
    +body: """
      Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
      \n
      I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
      \n
      TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
      \n
      ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
      """
    +type: "article"
    +lang: "en"
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    +hasEmbed: false
    +commentCount: 6
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    +isAdult: false
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      date: 2023-06-25 09:44:39.0 +02:00
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    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2038 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1985 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1994 …}
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    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1996 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1993 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2024}
    ]
    -id: 402
    -titleTs: "'bypass':2 'help':1 'led':5 'light':6 'timer':3"
    -bodyTs: "'/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':114 '/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':119 '/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':168 '3':78 '30':32,163 'appreci':63 'bigger':96 'bypass':153 'dark':40 'descript':129 'didn':20 'disappoint':97 'discuss.tchncs.de':167 'discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)':166 'document':144 'doesn':121 'dr':150 'error':86 'even':95 'figur':49 'first':65 'found':106 'got':83 'great':62 'guid':142 'hardwar':15 'help':59,151 'hi':1 'inconveni':37 'kitchen':12,41 'larger':102 'light':9,73,104,148 'manual':139 'might':51 'min':33,164 'mode':157 'onlin':108 'pack':79 'packag':24 'pictur':66,92 'pleas':165 'power':155 'product':141 'purchas':5 'push':8,72 'push-light':7,71 'read':22 'recent':4 'rectangl':147 'refer':110 'return':46 'room':84 'round':70 'said':26 'save':156 'say':123,134 'second':91 'shut':29,125,159 'small':69 'store':16 'strip':103 'stupid':19 'super':36 'tinker':54 'tl':149 'user':138 've':82 'well':53 'would':60 'www.amazon.com':113,118 'www.amazon.com/dp/b082xwvhs2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1)':112 'www.amazon.com/fulcrum-20-led-wireless-anywhere-rectangular/dp/b00vskk0v0/ref=asc_df_b00vskk0v0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkcode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1).':117"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687623185
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/268471"
    +editedAt: null
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687585185 {#2182
      date: 2023-06-24 07:39:45.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    'fraid that a little bit of effort producing the circuit diagram from the boards is really needed.\n
    \n
    I think that it will show what has to be a microcontroller with an input pad going to the switch and another pad going to a base resistor for q1. Q1 switching power to LEDS via RA - D.\n
    \n
    The long light looks to be fitted for a an IR receiver. With U1 near it possibly the decoder. As they show the thing stuck on a rafter presumably way out of reach - I suspect that 's a picture from the version with an IR controller. They have produced a cheaper version, without the sensor and re-used the photos.\n
    \n
    Now, if that’s how it is - I’d just remove the microcontroller and glue one of my favs upside down on the board and run wires from its pins to the relevant pads (removing the existing microcontroller). I haven’t bought one recently, but 8 pin ones were costing me less than 50p… Having programmed the replacement with an added option to stay on.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687639781 {#2032
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@allmycircuits@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2018 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2011 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2021 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2029 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2020 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2027 …}
  -id: 4597
  -bodyTs: "'50p':170 '8':162 'ad':177 'anoth':39 'base':44 'bit':5 'board':14,140 'bought':158 'cheaper':106 'circuit':10 'control':101 'cost':166 'd':55,125 'decod':74 'diagram':11 'effort':7 'exist':153 'fav':135 'fit':62 'fraid':1 'glue':131 'go':34,41 'haven':156 'input':32 'ir':66,100 'led':52 'less':168 'light':58 'littl':4 'long':57 'look':59 'microcontrol':29,129,154 'near':70 'need':17 'one':132,159,164 'option':178 'pad':33,40,150 'photo':116 'pictur':94 'pin':146,163 'possibl':72 'power':50 'presum':84 'produc':8,104 'program':172 'q1':47,48 'ra':54 'rafter':83 're':113 're-us':112 'reach':88 'realli':16 'receiv':67 'recent':160 'relev':149 'remov':127,151 'replac':174 'resistor':45 'run':142 'sensor':110 'show':23,77 'stay':180 'stuck':80 'suspect':90 'switch':37,49 'thing':79 'think':19 'u1':69 'upsid':136 'use':114 'version':97,107 'via':53 'way':85 'wire':143 'without':108"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/379533"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687639781 {#2026
    date: 2023-06-24 22:49:41.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 4597
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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Show voter details
61 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
62 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
  +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
  +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
  +body: """
    Hello,\n
    \n
    No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
    \n
    Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
    \n
    Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
    \n
    It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
    \n
    Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
    \n
    Thanks for any comment.
    """
  +type: "image"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: true
  +commentCount: 6
  +favouriteCount: 7
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
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  +lastActive: DateTime @1687965372 {#2284
    date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2154 …}
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  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2147 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2153 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
        Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1687730528 {#2081
        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
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      -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
      +ranking: 0
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      +visibility: "visible             "
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      +editedAt: null
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
      }
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  -id: 443
  -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1687777693
  +visibility: "visible             "
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  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
    date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
    date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS DENIED
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
63 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
  +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
  +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
  +body: """
    Hello,\n
    \n
    No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
    \n
    Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
    \n
    Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
    \n
    It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
    \n
    Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
    \n
    Thanks for any comment.
    """
  +type: "image"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: true
  +commentCount: 6
  +favouriteCount: 7
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687965372 {#2284
    date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2154 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2157 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2147 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2153 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
        Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1687730528 {#2081
        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
      -id: 4649
      -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
      +ranking: 0
      +commentCount: 0
      +upVotes: 0
      +downVotes: 0
      +visibility: "visible             "
      +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/399244"
      +editedAt: null
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
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  -id: 443
  -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
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  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1687777693
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/299814"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
    date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
    date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS DENIED
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
64 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
  +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
  +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
  +body: """
    Hello,\n
    \n
    No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
    \n
    Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
    \n
    Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
    \n
    It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
    \n
    Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
    \n
    Thanks for any comment.
    """
  +type: "image"
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  +hasEmbed: true
  +commentCount: 6
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    date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
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  +ip: null
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
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  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
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      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
        Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 2
      +score: 0
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        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
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        "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
      +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
      +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
      -id: 4649
      -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
      +ranking: 0
      +commentCount: 0
      +upVotes: 0
      +downVotes: 0
      +visibility: "visible             "
      +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/399244"
      +editedAt: null
      +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
        date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
      }
      +"title": 4649
    }
  ]
  -id: 443
  -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
  -bodyTs: "'aa':49 'alkalin':22 'anoth':21 'around':106 'batteri':23,50 'better':100 'clamp':60 'clip':44,97 'comment':130 'comput':18 'conduct':63 'contact':47 'corrod':89 'custom':84 'devic':10,29 'devis':102 'digi':116 'easi':75 'easy-to-find':74 'edg':67 'effect':126 'electron':16 'end':55 'even':91 'find':77 'form':79 'formal':3 'go':19 'hello':1 'home':12 'keep':14 'leak':25 'like':7,115 'month':34 'mount':38 'mous':118 'negat':51 'one':54 'onto':61 'pcb':69 'peel':92 'photo':111 'pictur':45 'piec':85 'prodigi':26 'product':110 'quit':88 'repair':9 'replac':81,95 'search':108 'seem':57 'sort':42 'standard':78 'supplier':113 'suspect':94 'termin':52 'thank':127 'thermostat':39 'trace':64 'train':4 'us':122 'vintag':15 'visual':107 'wall':37 'wall-mount':36 'websit':114 'work':105 'work-around':104 'would':98 'yet':20"
  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1687777693
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/299814"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
    date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
    date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
  }
  +__isInitialized__: true
   …2
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
65 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
66 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
    +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
    +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
    +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
    +body: """
      Hello,\n
      \n
      No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
      \n
      Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
      \n
      Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
      \n
      It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
      \n
      Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
      \n
      Thanks for any comment.
      """
    +type: "image"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: true
    +commentCount: 6
    +favouriteCount: 7
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
    +sticky: false
    +lastActive: DateTime @1687965372 {#2284
      date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2154 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2157 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2147 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2153 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098}
    ]
    -id: 443
    -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
    -bodyTs: "'aa':49 'alkalin':22 'anoth':21 'around':106 'batteri':23,50 'better':100 'clamp':60 'clip':44,97 'comment':130 'comput':18 'conduct':63 'contact':47 'corrod':89 'custom':84 'devic':10,29 'devis':102 'digi':116 'easi':75 'easy-to-find':74 'edg':67 'effect':126 'electron':16 'end':55 'even':91 'find':77 'form':79 'formal':3 'go':19 'hello':1 'home':12 'keep':14 'leak':25 'like':7,115 'month':34 'mount':38 'mous':118 'negat':51 'one':54 'onto':61 'pcb':69 'peel':92 'photo':111 'pictur':45 'piec':85 'prodigi':26 'product':110 'quit':88 'repair':9 'replac':81,95 'search':108 'seem':57 'sort':42 'standard':78 'supplier':113 'suspect':94 'termin':52 'thank':127 'thermostat':39 'trace':64 'train':4 'us':122 'vintag':15 'visual':107 'wall':37 'wall-mount':36 'websit':114 'work':105 'work-around':104 'would':98 'yet':20"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687777693
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/299814"
    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
      date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
      date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
    Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687730528 {#2081
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
  -id: 4649
  -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/399244"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 4649
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
67 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
    +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
    +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
    +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
    +body: """
      Hello,\n
      \n
      No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
      \n
      Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
      \n
      Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
      \n
      It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
      \n
      Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
      \n
      Thanks for any comment.
      """
    +type: "image"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: true
    +commentCount: 6
    +favouriteCount: 7
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
    +sticky: false
    +lastActive: DateTime @1687965372 {#2284
      date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2154 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2157 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2147 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2153 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098}
    ]
    -id: 443
    -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
    -bodyTs: "'aa':49 'alkalin':22 'anoth':21 'around':106 'batteri':23,50 'better':100 'clamp':60 'clip':44,97 'comment':130 'comput':18 'conduct':63 'contact':47 'corrod':89 'custom':84 'devic':10,29 'devis':102 'digi':116 'easi':75 'easy-to-find':74 'edg':67 'effect':126 'electron':16 'end':55 'even':91 'find':77 'form':79 'formal':3 'go':19 'hello':1 'home':12 'keep':14 'leak':25 'like':7,115 'month':34 'mount':38 'mous':118 'negat':51 'one':54 'onto':61 'pcb':69 'peel':92 'photo':111 'pictur':45 'piec':85 'prodigi':26 'product':110 'quit':88 'repair':9 'replac':81,95 'search':108 'seem':57 'sort':42 'standard':78 'supplier':113 'suspect':94 'termin':52 'thank':127 'thermostat':39 'trace':64 'train':4 'us':122 'vintag':15 'visual':107 'wall':37 'wall-mount':36 'websit':114 'work':105 'work-around':104 'would':98 'yet':20"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687777693
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/299814"
    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
      date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
      date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
    Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687730528 {#2081
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
  -id: 4649
  -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/399244"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 4649
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
68 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2063
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2142 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2039 …}
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2203 …}
    +slug: "Is-this-one-piece-battery-to-PCB-clip-standard-for-easy-replacement-or"
    +title: "Is this one-piece battery-to-PCB "clip" standard (for easy replacement) or a custom piece? +PCB pad ?"
    +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/ab76f880-8780-4770-bce9-a351e5605174.jpeg"
    +body: """
      Hello,\n
      \n
      No formal training, but do like to repair devices at home (and keep vintage electronics and computers going).\n
      \n
      Yet another alkaline battery has leaked prodigiously into a device (after only a few months). A wall-mounted thermostat.\n
      \n
      Is the sort of clip pictured, which contacts an AA battery negative terminal at one end, and seemed to just clamp onto a conductive trace at the edge of PCB at the other, an easy-to-find standard form (for replacement) or a custom piece?\n
      \n
      It is quite corroded and even peeling, and suspect replacing the clip would be better than devising a work-around.\n
      \n
      Visually searching through product photos on supplier websites (like Digi— and Mous-- here in the US) has not been effective.\n
      \n
      Thanks for any comment.
      """
    +type: "image"
    +lang: "en"
    +isOc: false
    +hasEmbed: true
    +commentCount: 6
    +favouriteCount: 7
    +score: 0
    +isAdult: false
    +sticky: false
    +lastActive: DateTime @1687965372 {#2284
      date: 2023-06-28 17:16:12.0 +02:00
    }
    +ip: null
    +adaAmount: 0
    +tags: null
    +mentions: null
    +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2156 …}
    +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2154 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2157 …}
    +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2147 …}
    +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2150 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2153 …}
    +children: [
      App\Entity\EntryComment {#2098}
    ]
    -id: 443
    -titleTs: "'batteri':7 'battery-to-pcb':6 'clip':10 'custom':17 'easi':13 'one':4 'one-piec':3 'pad':20 'pcb':9,19 'piec':5,18 'replac':14 'standard':11"
    -bodyTs: "'aa':49 'alkalin':22 'anoth':21 'around':106 'batteri':23,50 'better':100 'clamp':60 'clip':44,97 'comment':130 'comput':18 'conduct':63 'contact':47 'corrod':89 'custom':84 'devic':10,29 'devis':102 'digi':116 'easi':75 'easy-to-find':74 'edg':67 'effect':126 'electron':16 'end':55 'even':91 'find':77 'form':79 'formal':3 'go':19 'hello':1 'home':12 'keep':14 'leak':25 'like':7,115 'month':34 'mount':38 'mous':118 'negat':51 'one':54 'onto':61 'pcb':69 'peel':92 'photo':111 'pictur':45 'piec':85 'prodigi':26 'product':110 'quit':88 'repair':9 'replac':81,95 'search':108 'seem':57 'sort':42 'standard':78 'supplier':113 'suspect':94 'termin':52 'thank':127 'thermostat':39 'trace':64 'train':4 'us':122 'vintag':15 'visual':107 'wall':37 'wall-mount':36 'websit':114 'work':105 'work-around':104 'would':98 'yet':20"
    +cross: false
    +upVotes: 0
    +downVotes: 0
    +ranking: 1687777693
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/299814"
    +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687745268 {#2260
      date: 2023-06-26 04:07:48.0 +02:00
    }
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687725193 {#2274
      date: 2023-06-25 22:33:13.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    Acid etch, followed by electrolytic copper plate, followed by nickel plate.  \n
    Sorry, can’t help with sourcing a replacement.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 2
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687730528 {#2081
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@ron33@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2080 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2089 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2095 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2091 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2090 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2092 …}
  -id: 4649
  -bodyTs: "'acid':1 'copper':6 'electrolyt':5 'etch':2 'follow':3,8 'help':15 'nickel':10 'plate':7,11 'replac':19 'sorri':12 'sourc':17"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/comment/399244"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687730528 {#2077
    date: 2023-06-26 00:02:08.0 +02:00
  }
  +"title": 4649
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
69 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
70 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2312 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2180 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2004 …}
  +slug: "Can-I-get-a-North-American-plug-for-this-36W"
  +title: "Can I get a North American plug for this 36W DC charger?"
  +url: "https://kbin.social/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/t/91386"
  +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
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  }
  +ip: null
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1989 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1986 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2009 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1991 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2015 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2008 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
        \n
        I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
        \n
        Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
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      +ip: null
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      +mentions: [
        "@kaladininskyrim@kbin.social"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2075 …}
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   …2
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
71 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2312 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2180 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2004 …}
  +slug: "Can-I-get-a-North-American-plug-for-this-36W"
  +title: "Can I get a North American plug for this 36W DC charger?"
  +url: "https://kbin.social/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/t/91386"
  +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
  +type: "link"
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1989 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1986 …}
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  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1991 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2015 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2008 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
      +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
        \n
        I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
        \n
        Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 5
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1687648203 {#2031
        date: 2023-06-25 01:10:03.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
      +tags: null
      +mentions: [
        "@kaladininskyrim@kbin.social"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2075 …}
      +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2079 …}
      +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2078 …}
      +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2097 …}
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   …2
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
72 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2312 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2180 …}
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2004 …}
  +slug: "Can-I-get-a-North-American-plug-for-this-36W"
  +title: "Can I get a North American plug for this 36W DC charger?"
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  +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
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  }
  +ip: null
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1989 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1986 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2009 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1991 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2015 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2008 …}
  +children: [
    App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
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      +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144 …2}
      +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
      +image: null
      +parent: null
      +root: null
      +body: """
        If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
        \n
        I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
        \n
        Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
        """
      +lang: "en"
      +isAdult: false
      +favouriteCount: 5
      +score: 0
      +lastActive: DateTime @1687648203 {#2031
        date: 2023-06-25 01:10:03.0 +02:00
      }
      +ip: null
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        "@kaladininskyrim@kbin.social"
      ]
      +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2075 …}
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      +ranking: 0
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   …2
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS DENIED
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
73 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
74 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2144
    +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2312 …}
    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2180 …}
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    +slug: "Can-I-get-a-North-American-plug-for-this-36W"
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    +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
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      date: 2023-06-24 23:21:21.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
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  +root: null
  +body: """
    If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
    \n
    I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
    \n
    Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
    """
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Show voter details
75 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
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    +image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2180 …}
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#2004 …}
    +slug: "Can-I-get-a-North-American-plug-for-this-36W"
    +title: "Can I get a North American plug for this 36W DC charger?"
    +url: "https://kbin.social/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/t/91386"
    +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
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      date: 2023-06-24 23:21:21.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
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    If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
    \n
    I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
    \n
    Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
    """
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Show voter details
76 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2037
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    +body: "I got it with <https://sabrent.com/collections/hard-drive-accessories/products/ec-ch2b>. But since I bought it in EU, it has that charger. Is there no alternative other than buying a whole new charger?"
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      date: 2023-06-24 23:21:21.0 +02:00
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    If you mean a replacement slide-in US standard module - I fear that your chances are slim. I don’t know of a standard that applies to such plates. As it came with a, presumably, external disc drive - asking that manufacturer or its US agent/distributor for help might get something. Even a free replacement power supply. Worth asking, surely?\n
    \n
    I don’t recommend using an inline adapter - unless used vertically, the leverage would be too great, unless you added a third leg… You might look for a right angle adapter - that’s the norm in the UK. They can work out well.\n
    \n
    Otherwise, you could get an EU socket strip, replacing the plug on the end of its cable with a US one (if it doesn’t actually come with a US plug already).
    """
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Show voter details
77 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
78 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2133
  +user: App\Entity\User {#264 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
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  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "Using-an-incandescent-lamp-as-the-resistor-for-a-zener-avalanche"
  +title: "Using an incandescent lamp as the "resistor" for a zener/avalanche diode regulated supply"
  +url: null
  +body: "The recent post on using a lamp in series to limit potential fault currents has had me thinking about using them as above. Has anyone done this? I can see advantages, cost for one - wirewound resistors can be expensive. Visual indication of a varying load. Make it "short-circuit proof".."
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      +parent: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\EntryComment {#2129 …}
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      +body: """
        Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
        Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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   …2
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Show voter details
79 DENIED edit
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#2133
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        Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
        Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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        Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
        Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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82 DENIED moderate
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    Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
    Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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83 DENIED edit
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    Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
    Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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84 DENIED moderate
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    Any particular shunt resistor that you have in mind? You are correct that the lamp brightness would remain the same whilst in the regulated zone. I was more thinking of operation outside that region - eg in a short condition. Having a lamp as the series resistor would reduce the fault current compared to using a fixed resistor.  \n
    Not sure what you you mean by “fewer choices of resistance”. The lamp would be the series resistor - other than that, what resistor did you have in mind?
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86 DENIED moderate
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        You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
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        If the load versus time is predictable, you could use a latching relay and delay voltage checking until the time window for potential cut-off. Or make it entirely period based and not test at all.\n
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        Many operate on that basis - the time interval between recharging may be out of their control (in our case, once, we only had mains electricity between 2am and 4 am each day…) and they provide themselves with enough battery capacity to last that time interval, with a reserve. So no low voltage cut off necessary. So no testing necessary.
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        You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
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        You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
        \n
        SLAs self-discharge, of course.\n
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90 DENIED moderate
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    -titleTs: "'12v':8 'anyon':2 'cutoff':12 'good':6 'low':10 'low-voltag':9 'recommend':4 'simpl':7 'voltag':11"
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    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687990029 {#2196
      date: 2023-06-29 00:07:09.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
    \n
    SLAs self-discharge, of course.\n
    \n
    If the load versus time is predictable, you could use a latching relay and delay voltage checking until the time window for potential cut-off. Or make it entirely period based and not test at all.\n
    \n
    It may be that you never need to sense voltage, if your time period between recharging is small enough.\n
    \n
    Many operate on that basis - the time interval between recharging may be out of their control (in our case, once, we only had mains electricity between 2am and 4 am each day…) and they provide themselves with enough battery capacity to last that time interval, with a reserve. So no low voltage cut off necessary. So no testing necessary.
    """
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
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}
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91 DENIED edit
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    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
    +image: null
    +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
    +slug: "Can-anyone-here-recommend-a-good-simple-12v-low-voltage-cutoff"
    +title: "Can anyone here recommend a good, simple 12v low-voltage cutoff?"
    +url: null
    +body: "I’ve been looking for a simple low-voltage cutoff circuit for a 12v SLA battery, but many of the ones I find have reviews saying that the protection circuit itself drains the battery slowly as well. Is this just inherent in the design, where it has to draw a little to measure the voltage, or are there low-voltage cutoffs that don’t draw anything until the battery is recharged?"
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    -id: 481
    -titleTs: "'12v':8 'anyon':2 'cutoff':12 'good':6 'low':10 'low-voltag':9 'recommend':4 'simpl':7 'voltag':11"
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      date: 2023-06-29 00:07:09.0 +02:00
    }
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
    \n
    SLAs self-discharge, of course.\n
    \n
    If the load versus time is predictable, you could use a latching relay and delay voltage checking until the time window for potential cut-off. Or make it entirely period based and not test at all.\n
    \n
    It may be that you never need to sense voltage, if your time period between recharging is small enough.\n
    \n
    Many operate on that basis - the time interval between recharging may be out of their control (in our case, once, we only had mains electricity between 2am and 4 am each day…) and they provide themselves with enough battery capacity to last that time interval, with a reserve. So no low voltage cut off necessary. So no testing necessary.
    """
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92 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2042
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    +slug: "Can-anyone-here-recommend-a-good-simple-12v-low-voltage-cutoff"
    +title: "Can anyone here recommend a good, simple 12v low-voltage cutoff?"
    +url: null
    +body: "I’ve been looking for a simple low-voltage cutoff circuit for a 12v SLA battery, but many of the ones I find have reviews saying that the protection circuit itself drains the battery slowly as well. Is this just inherent in the design, where it has to draw a little to measure the voltage, or are there low-voltage cutoffs that don’t draw anything until the battery is recharged?"
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    +cross: false
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    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687990029 {#2196
      date: 2023-06-29 00:07:09.0 +02:00
    }
    +__isInitialized__: true
     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: """
    You want hysteresis and an energy gap - which means putting energy into the system. You could use a latching relay to minimise insertion loss, however the loss in a conducting MOSFET can be pretty minimal.\n
    \n
    SLAs self-discharge, of course.\n
    \n
    If the load versus time is predictable, you could use a latching relay and delay voltage checking until the time window for potential cut-off. Or make it entirely period based and not test at all.\n
    \n
    It may be that you never need to sense voltage, if your time period between recharging is small enough.\n
    \n
    Many operate on that basis - the time interval between recharging may be out of their control (in our case, once, we only had mains electricity between 2am and 4 am each day…) and they provide themselves with enough battery capacity to last that time interval, with a reserve. So no low voltage cut off necessary. So no testing necessary.
    """
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93 DENIED ROLE_USER
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94 DENIED moderate
Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1402
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1999 …}
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1354 …}
  +slug: "How-to-setup-this-function-generator-with-this-oscilloscope"
  +title: "How to setup this function generator with this oscilloscope?"
  +url: "https://imgur.com/a/k6Tx1N9"
  +body: """
    I’ve got an old oscilloscope and a function generator that I’m trying to use to play around and get more familiar with this kinda stuff. I’m mostly new to electronics (especially analog ones) and I’m having a hard time getting them setup properly.\n
    \n
    Both devices turn on and the controls seemingly work, but I never get anything more than a flat line or random noise on the scope.\n
    \n
    Any help would be appreciated!\n
    \n
    The scope is a Sencore PS148A and the generator is a Heathkit SG-1271.
    """
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      +parent: null
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      +body: "We have a council-supported “man cave” - with a couple of funded workshop technicians and lots of unpaid volunteer specialist engineers, mechanics, DIY’ers etc. Plus a very well equipped multi-discipline workshop. So you could take those bits of kit there and someone would give you a hand setting them up, teaching you how to use them, repairing them/maintaining them as needed. Even getting them calibration certificates (thanks to one of the volunteers who has access to calibration equipment). If you don’t have one locally - wouldn’t the technician at a local school/college/university help? Is there a local community online group that you could join and ask for help?"
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Show voter details
100 DENIED moderate
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     …2
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
101 DENIED moderate
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  +image: null
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    This battery was just sitting on my workbench top. Unconnected, quite elderly (Maplin - remember them?). Not in the sun. At about 9pm - bang.\n
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    Yes, top and bottom end caps are missing… haven’t found them yet…\n
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    Just thought that I would share - I didn’t know that they could do that…
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Show voter details
102 DENIED moderate
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    \n
    Yes, top and bottom end caps are missing… haven’t found them yet…\n
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    Just thought that I would share - I didn’t know that they could do that…
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Show voter details
103 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
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"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
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"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
104 DENIED moderate
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      Yes, one cell is missing… I haven’t found it yet.\n
      \n
      Yes, top and bottom end caps are missing… haven’t found them yet…\n
      \n
      Just thought that I would share - I didn’t know that they could do that…
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      date: 2023-06-29 23:02:18.0 +02:00
    }
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     …2
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    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/2e778b9f-4c3c-4246-8ac5-5c2bc8b2ab08.jpeg)\n
    \n
    Found it! (complete with end cap) - contents completely removed themselves…
    """
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ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
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"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
105 DENIED edit
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    +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
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      This battery was just sitting on my workbench top. Unconnected, quite elderly (Maplin - remember them?). Not in the sun. At about 9pm - bang.\n
      \n
      Yes, one cell is missing… I haven’t found it yet.\n
      \n
      Yes, top and bottom end caps are missing… haven’t found them yet…\n
      \n
      Just thought that I would share - I didn’t know that they could do that…
      """
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    -id: 554
    -titleTs: "'alkalin':3 'batteri':4 'explod':1 'pp3':2"
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    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1688072538 {#2253
      date: 2023-06-29 23:02:18.0 +02:00
    }
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
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    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/2e778b9f-4c3c-4246-8ac5-5c2bc8b2ab08.jpeg)\n
    \n
    Found it! (complete with end cap) - contents completely removed themselves…
    """
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  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#2340 …}
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Show voter details
106 DENIED moderate
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      \n
      Yes, one cell is missing… I haven’t found it yet.\n
      \n
      Yes, top and bottom end caps are missing… haven’t found them yet…\n
      \n
      Just thought that I would share - I didn’t know that they could do that…
      """
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      date: 2023-06-29 23:02:18.0 +02:00
    }
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     …2
  }
  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
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    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/2e778b9f-4c3c-4246-8ac5-5c2bc8b2ab08.jpeg)\n
    \n
    Found it! (complete with end cap) - contents completely removed themselves…
    """
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
107 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
108 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\Entry {#1433
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
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  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
    \n
    I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
    \n
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    \n
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    \n
    Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
    \n
    Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
    """
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
109 DENIED edit
App\Entity\Entry {#1433
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
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  +body: """
    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
    \n
    I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
    \n
    I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
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    \n
    Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
    \n
    Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
    """
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
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"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
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ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
110 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\Entry {#1433
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  +magazine: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Magazine {#1654 …}
  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1752 …}
  +slug: "Using-multiple-windings-on-two-transformers-to-create-one-output"
  +title: "Using multiple windings on two transformers to create one output at maximum power"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
    \n
    I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
    \n
    I’ve also got a pair of identical transformers with 8-0-8 and a 16-0-16 secondary windings.\n
    \n
    I’m thinking of paralleling a 16v winding on each transformer, doing the same with an 8v winding and putting the two in series to give the 24v. However, that leaves two 16v windings and two 8v windings left unused.\n
    \n
    Is there any advantage in paralleling those windings also? Any disadvantage? Or just leave them unconnected…Which is what I was about to do…\n
    \n
    Sadly I cannot split either winding into two independent ones.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 0
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  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1687780233 {#1766
    date: 2023-06-26 13:50:33.0 +02:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +adaAmount: 0
  +tags: null
  +mentions: null
  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1744 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1646 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1640 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1589 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1590 …}
  +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1575 …}
  +children: []
  -id: 452
  -titleTs: "'creat':8 'maximum':12 'multipl':2 'one':9 'output':10 'power':13 'transform':6 'two':5 'use':1 'wind':3"
  -bodyTs: "'-0':23,62,67 '-16':68 '-23.5':24 '-8':63 '16':66 '16v':77,103 '23.5':22 '24v':14,98 '8':61 '8a':41 '8v':87,107 'ac':15 'advantag':114 'also':53,119 'big':48 'broken':8 'cannot':137 'disadvantag':121 'either':139 'everyon':2 'give':96 'go':31,44 'got':54 'half':34 'heavi':50 'hi':1 'howev':99 'ident':58 'independ':143 'leav':101,124 'left':109 'm':72 'need':12 'one':144 'overkil':40 'pair':56 'parallel':75,116 'put':90 'rate':42 'resurrect':6 'sad':135 'secondari':69 'seri':94 'split':138 'suppli':16 'tcp1':10 'think':73 'toroid':26 'transform':59,81 'two':92,102,106,142 'unconnect':126 'unus':110 'use':33 'v':25 've':4,52 'weller':9 'wind':36,70,78,88,104,108,118,140"
  +cross: false
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +ranking: 1687789233
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/311154"
  +editedAt: null
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687780233 {#1466
    date: 2023-06-26 13:50:33.0 +02:00
  }
}
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