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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Just exploring about this tp-link XN020-G3v router. I’m mostly interested in connecting to the UART, won’t be tinkering with electronics of it, but out of curiosity I tried to search what these chips are. and I couldn’t find much about the big chip. Can anyone describe the 4 main chips on it ? Best would be datasheet, but whatever information you can provide.\n
\n
I suspect\n
\n
1. bigger one(ECONET EN7526FCU) is CPU/SOC, (couldn’t find datasheet/specs). Can anyone provide details ?\n
2. MT7592N is definitely network IC(found datasheet)\n
3. Le9641PQC is network IC. required for VoIP. (found datasheet)\n
4. AJ194 (backside) is flash ? How to tinker with it ?\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
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null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 6 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1690
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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+slug: "Looking-for-really-small-motors"
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
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Show voter details
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| 16 |
DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
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\n
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hi again, since i had a bad idea in my last post i wanted to try again to get some feedback i could understand and apply.\n
\n
the idea is to make a vacuum (the appliance) play a few seconds of r2d2 sounds. the vacuum is hauled around on the scaffolding on a construction site and wont be necessarily standing upright (while idle or in used).\n
\n
my original idea was to have some kind of trigger through a sensor (SW-18010, or something) that draws zero power (like a tilt switch, but position independent). that trigger should pull a pin high on the dfmini mp3 player (cheap player board) which in turn would play a few audio files while powered.\n
\n
so sensor -> 555 astable -> df mini player -> speaker (piezzo maybe).\n
\n
any ideas or pointers? is the idea of zero power in this case even possible (never used the 555 before), is maybe a attiny a better idea while in deep sleep?\n
\n
battery life of 1year + would be ideal.
"""
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| 17 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
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My Google-fu has completely failed me. I’ve got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.\n
\n
Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I’ve found a few places where others have talked about them. I’ve also found that adafruit had some available, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.\n
\n
[www.adafruit.com/product/4917](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917)\n
\n
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Does anyone recognise these power supplies? They’re cheap AliExpress led drivers and I want to change its output voltage to around 22V from 12V. I’ve read that the way to do this is to adjust the REF voltage on the IC that controls it. It’s a KA3845 but I don’t understand where that reference voltage is regulated. One voltage is feedback from the output where then other should be a reference.\n
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Rules\n
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Link to gallery: [postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX](https://postimg.cc/gallery/HnVZxSX)Excuse the quality of the images, Im quite new to exporting PCB from kicad.
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Show voter details
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Rules\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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Hi,\n
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I recently bought a few pre-made amplifier modules for an 8-channel amplifier project (for a sound installation).\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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Hi,\n
\n
I recently bought a few pre-made amplifier modules for an 8-channel amplifier project (for a sound installation).\n
\n
The amp is based on the TDA7294 chip and is rated 85W nominal. Now I’m looking for a power supply, but I’m a bit lost (this isn’t really my strongest field, to put it mildly).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
Best, N
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi,\n
\n
I recently bought a few pre-made amplifier modules for an 8-channel amplifier project (for a sound installation).\n
\n
The amp is based on the TDA7294 chip and is rated 85W nominal. Now I’m looking for a power supply, but I’m a bit lost (this isn’t really my strongest field, to put it mildly).\n
\n
Do I just need to add up the output power, 8*85W = 680W, or could I get away with using something smaller, like a 300W or 300VA?\n
\n
Also, the seller said that you need to use CV power supplies, CC won’t work and kill the circuit. Does that mean a switching supply can’t be used?\n
\n
It looks like the module has a rectifier and smoothing caps integrated, so I could potentially just use a transformer, right?\n
\n
Best, N
"""
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| 41 |
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| 42 |
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
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| 43 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1739
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 44 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1739
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1741 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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Hi!\n
\n
I’ve asked Siglent support but after a couple of responses the thread went cold. Maybe I’m being dumb but I’ve noticed that there’s a frequency (low, around 100Hz) where scope response changes a bit. Below and above it square input looks square. Right about it square input looks slanted.\n
\n
I tried to do a very slow “sweep” and there’s small but visible change in the envelope. So, e.g. with a constant 600mV p2p input lower frequencies measure exactly that while higher ones measure 612mV, so ~2% diff.\n
\n
Terminated 50Ohm cables (not that it matters at such a low freq) to be sure. Latest firmware, after full self-cal. Siggen itself seems allright, I have an ancient Tek scope and the siggen output looks Ok there with same input/same cables. Scope seems happy and fully functional otherwise, few years old though, out of warranty.\n
\n
Has anyone else seen anything like that? Is this a normal behavior within the expected margin of error?\n
\n
Thanks!
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
| 45 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 46 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2452
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2457 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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I have to fix a slightly very stupid mistake that I’ve made.\n
\n
I’m trying to recreate the conductive lines of a membrane keyboard, unfortunately after trying to unglue them they got ripped off, I’ve painted 2 coats but it I’m receiving no signs of life from it.\n
\n
Is Liquidwire the wrong paint for the job? Maybe the circuit lines ar too long to fix? Should I try copper or silver paint?\n
\n
I’ve read online that shaking the pain is not enough and that I should also stirr it.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 47 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2452
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Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2452
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Rules\n
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I have to fix a slightly very stupid mistake that I’ve made.\n
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Show voter details
|
| 49 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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\n
Rules\n
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Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
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[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
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Show voter details
|
| 51 |
DENIED
|
edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
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Show voter details
|
| 52 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2361
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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I have two led strips used for 2x27" monitor bias lighting. Each have their own USB cables for power. These two USB cables are plugged into a 2-port wall charger for a phone. I would like to use a 2x female to 1x male adapter to join the two USB cables into one, then plug it into a much smaller 1-port USB wall charger. The reason is due to my space constraints.\n
\n
Will doing this impact its energy efficiency, ie using an adapter like this?\n
\n
[www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004340044483.html)
"""
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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
\n
---\n
\n
I’m not sure if this is the right community for this sort of post. Please let me know if not, and if there is a more suitable place to put it.
"""
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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
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---\n
\n
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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
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---\n
\n
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+body: """
Some years ago, before LEDs were a thing, I bought an Ultrafire WF-500 Flashlight that features a Xeon light bulb. As you might imagine the bulb reached its lifetime and burned away.\n
\n
Now a replacement bulb is available here [www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663](https://www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663) the thing is that it will cost me 35€ and for that price I could just buy a new LED flashlight.\n
\n
Now I was considering trying to adapt a generic LED bulb like this one here [www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=…](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=1).\n
\n
Anyone else with this model of flashlight succeed at a similar mod? Any LED bulb recommendations? Or… is there any other source for the original bulb at a lower cost?\n
\n
Some photos:\n
\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg)\n
\n
Thank you.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 59 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1381
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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+body: """
Some years ago, before LEDs were a thing, I bought an Ultrafire WF-500 Flashlight that features a Xeon light bulb. As you might imagine the bulb reached its lifetime and burned away.\n
\n
Now a replacement bulb is available here [www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663](https://www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663) the thing is that it will cost me 35€ and for that price I could just buy a new LED flashlight.\n
\n
Now I was considering trying to adapt a generic LED bulb like this one here [www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=…](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=1).\n
\n
Anyone else with this model of flashlight succeed at a similar mod? Any LED bulb recommendations? Or… is there any other source for the original bulb at a lower cost?\n
\n
Some photos:\n
\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg)\n
\n
Thank you.
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 60 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1381
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Some years ago, before LEDs were a thing, I bought an Ultrafire WF-500 Flashlight that features a Xeon light bulb. As you might imagine the bulb reached its lifetime and burned away.\n
\n
Now a replacement bulb is available here [www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663](https://www.ebay.com/itm/321916301663) the thing is that it will cost me 35€ and for that price I could just buy a new LED flashlight.\n
\n
Now I was considering trying to adapt a generic LED bulb like this one here [www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=…](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002419159094.html?mp=1).\n
\n
Anyone else with this model of flashlight succeed at a similar mod? Any LED bulb recommendations? Or… is there any other source for the original bulb at a lower cost?\n
\n
Some photos:\n
\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb2.jpg)\n
- [cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg](https://cdn.tcb13.com/2023/wf500-bulb3.jpg)\n
\n
Thank you.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 61 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 62 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2022
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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I have some metal film 1/2w 2.2ohm resistors in some car wiring. I’m concerned about the durability of this install and am seeking advice on how to protect the resistor once it’s soldered in place. The obvious is heat shrink tubing, but it’s there anything more substantial?\n
\n
I’ll be using these resistors in a custom pigtail that will plug into the car wiring. 3D printed housing? I have tried searching and I haven’t found anything like that.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 63 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2022
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2018 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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My project is a “breathing” white 12v LED strip controlled by an esp32 on a dev board, and switched with an IFLZ44N mosfet.\n
\n
In my video you can see it working but also hear the power supply complaining.\n
\n
I’m using the LEDC Arduino library which allows me to select the frequency and resolution for PWM.\n
\n
If I set the frequency too low the whine is extreme, but at this setting it’s the best I’ve been able to achieve, which is about 9000Hz. Unfortunately you can still hear the sound from across the room!\n
\n
It is a cheapo solid state power supply that claims it can output 12v up to 25A. I tried my desktop supply and it emits some whine too, so I don’t think replacing the power will totally fix this.\n
\n
Is there a technique for tuning the frequency or even just masking it somehow?
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\n
Ignoring all of the many many other problems with doing this for now the one thing I’m not sure about is how well the electrolytic caps on the various components would survive. I would need to pull a fairly hard (500 micron) vacuum on everything before I charge it with refrigerant. I know most electolytic caps aren’t vacuum rated but I’m not sure if that just means you can’t have them operating in a vacuum or if they will immediately pop if you just subject them to hard vaccum period. Additionally while I am planning on using a low pressure refrigerant (probably some R-123 substitute but I’m definitely still working on that part) the components would all still be subject to pressures of up to about 20 PSIG at the high end. Beyond that point I would probably have an active cooling system kick in just for safety sake. I’m not sure how well the caps in particular would survive being immersed in a liquid under 20 PSIG pressure.\n
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
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\n
Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
Ignoring all of the many many other problems with doing this for now the one thing I’m not sure about is how well the electrolytic caps on the various components would survive. I would need to pull a fairly hard (500 micron) vacuum on everything before I charge it with refrigerant. I know most electolytic caps aren’t vacuum rated but I’m not sure if that just means you can’t have them operating in a vacuum or if they will immediately pop if you just subject them to hard vaccum period. Additionally while I am planning on using a low pressure refrigerant (probably some R-123 substitute but I’m definitely still working on that part) the components would all still be subject to pressures of up to about 20 PSIG at the high end. Beyond that point I would probably have an active cooling system kick in just for safety sake. I’m not sure how well the caps in particular would survive being immersed in a liquid under 20 PSIG pressure.\n
\n
Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
"""
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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Show voter details
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
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Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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Show voter details
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\n
Rules\n
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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date: 2023-09-29 10:19:01.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2045
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2057 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "Two-battery-setup-in-camper"
+title: "Two battery setup in camper"
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+body: """
I want to change te battery setup in the camper van a bit.\n
\n
Currently there is a single battery which is charged by either solar, engine or 230v. Then a transformer to 230v to power the outlets.\n
\n
The idea is to add an extra battery. A lot of people are saying that it isn’t a good idea to put those batteries in series or parallel if the batteries are not exactly he same. Now our idea is to switch between the two batteries with the help of some relais and an Arduino or something. So then + of both batteries would be connected to a relay and after the relay we can connect them together. Is this a good/safe way of doing that? Or will we be running into issues that I’m not seeing.\n
\n
Thanks in advance!
"""
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2101
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2102 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1587 …}
+slug: "Shift-register-missing-bits"
+title: "Shift register missing bits"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/7da4f08e-8d93-4cf1-99c9-22f2aea08d32.png"
+body: """
Hey friends,\n
\n
I have a two [daisy chained shift registers](https://i.imgur.com/tZBQ45e.png) ([74AHC595](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/74AHC595.pdf)) which are controlled via an ESP32. I want to set one output to high at a time before switching to the next.\n
\n
The code seems to work, but the outputs O_9 and O_10 are not [staying high](https://i.imgur.com/v5OOE1K.png) ([zoom](https://i.imgur.com/VpMbdW3.png)) after setting them, whereas all the other ones are working fine. This is the used code snipped:\n
\n
```\n
\n
<span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_CLK, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">uint16_t input_bin = 0b1000000000000000;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">for(int i=0; i<17; i++){\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte upper_byte = input_bin >> 8;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte lower_byte = input_bin & 0x00FF;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, lower_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, upper_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> usleep(10);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, HIGH);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> delay(10)\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> input_bin = input_bin>>1;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">} \n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
Is there anything I’m doing wrong, or any idea on where the problem may lie? I’ve already tried looking for shorts and other error sources, but the design was manufactured on a PCB and no assembly issues are noticeable.
"""
+type: "image"
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-id: 2357
-titleTs: "'bit':4 'miss':3 'regist':2 'shift':1"
-bodyTs: "'/assets/datasheets/74ahc595.pdf))':17 '/tzbq45e.png)':13 '/v5ooe1k.png)':59 '/vpmbdw3.png))':63 '0':116 '0b1000000000000000':112 '0x00ff':131 '1':170 '10':52,158,165 '17':118 '74ahc595':14 '8':125 '9':49 'alreadi':189 'anyth':173 'assembl':208 'bin':111,124,130,167,169 'byte':120,122,126,128,146,156 'chain':8 'clk':89,143,153 'code':41,79 'control':20 'daisi':7 'data':84,140,150 'delay':164 'design':200 'digitalwrit':102,132,159 'en':95,106 'error':196 'esp32':23 'fine':74 'friend':2 'hey':1 'high':31,56,163 'i.imgur.com':12,58,62 'i.imgur.com/tzbq45e.png)':11 'i.imgur.com/v5ooe1k.png)':57 'i.imgur.com/vpmbdw3.png))':61 'idea':180 'input':110,123,129,166,168 'int':114 'issu':209 'latch':100,135,162 'lie':186 'look':191 'low':107,136 'lower':127,145 'm':175 'manufactur':202 'may':185 'msbfirst':144,154 'n':94,105 'next':39 'notic':211 'o':48,51 'one':28,71 'output':29,47,85,90,96,101 'pcb':205 'pinmod':81,86,91,97 'problem':184 'regist':10 'seem':42 'set':27,65 'shift':9,82,87,92,98,103,133,138,141,148,151,160 'shiftdataout':137,147 'short':193 'snip':80 'sourc':197 'stay':55 'switch':36 'time':34 'tri':190 'two':6 'uint16':108 'upper':121,155 'use':78 'usleep':157 've':188 'via':21 'want':25 'wherea':67 'work':44,73 'wrong':177 'www.diodes.com':16 'www.diodes.com/assets/datasheets/74ahc595.pdf))':15 'zoom':60"
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}
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date: 2023-09-27 21:04:21.0 +02:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
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|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2101
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2102 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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}
+image: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#2109 …}
+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1587 …}
+slug: "Shift-register-missing-bits"
+title: "Shift register missing bits"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/7da4f08e-8d93-4cf1-99c9-22f2aea08d32.png"
+body: """
Hey friends,\n
\n
I have a two [daisy chained shift registers](https://i.imgur.com/tZBQ45e.png) ([74AHC595](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/74AHC595.pdf)) which are controlled via an ESP32. I want to set one output to high at a time before switching to the next.\n
\n
The code seems to work, but the outputs O_9 and O_10 are not [staying high](https://i.imgur.com/v5OOE1K.png) ([zoom](https://i.imgur.com/VpMbdW3.png)) after setting them, whereas all the other ones are working fine. This is the used code snipped:\n
\n
```\n
\n
<span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_CLK, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">uint16_t input_bin = 0b1000000000000000;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">for(int i=0; i<17; i++){\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte upper_byte = input_bin >> 8;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte lower_byte = input_bin & 0x00FF;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, lower_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, upper_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> usleep(10);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, HIGH);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> delay(10)\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> input_bin = input_bin>>1;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">} \n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
Is there anything I’m doing wrong, or any idea on where the problem may lie? I’ve already tried looking for shorts and other error sources, but the design was manufactured on a PCB and no assembly issues are noticeable.
"""
+type: "image"
+lang: "en"
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date: 2023-09-28 08:34:52.0 +02:00
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-id: 2357
-titleTs: "'bit':4 'miss':3 'regist':2 'shift':1"
-bodyTs: "'/assets/datasheets/74ahc595.pdf))':17 '/tzbq45e.png)':13 '/v5ooe1k.png)':59 '/vpmbdw3.png))':63 '0':116 '0b1000000000000000':112 '0x00ff':131 '1':170 '10':52,158,165 '17':118 '74ahc595':14 '8':125 '9':49 'alreadi':189 'anyth':173 'assembl':208 'bin':111,124,130,167,169 'byte':120,122,126,128,146,156 'chain':8 'clk':89,143,153 'code':41,79 'control':20 'daisi':7 'data':84,140,150 'delay':164 'design':200 'digitalwrit':102,132,159 'en':95,106 'error':196 'esp32':23 'fine':74 'friend':2 'hey':1 'high':31,56,163 'i.imgur.com':12,58,62 'i.imgur.com/tzbq45e.png)':11 'i.imgur.com/v5ooe1k.png)':57 'i.imgur.com/vpmbdw3.png))':61 'idea':180 'input':110,123,129,166,168 'int':114 'issu':209 'latch':100,135,162 'lie':186 'look':191 'low':107,136 'lower':127,145 'm':175 'manufactur':202 'may':185 'msbfirst':144,154 'n':94,105 'next':39 'notic':211 'o':48,51 'one':28,71 'output':29,47,85,90,96,101 'pcb':205 'pinmod':81,86,91,97 'problem':184 'regist':10 'seem':42 'set':27,65 'shift':9,82,87,92,98,103,133,138,141,148,151,160 'shiftdataout':137,147 'short':193 'snip':80 'sourc':197 'stay':55 'switch':36 'time':34 'tri':190 'two':6 'uint16':108 'upper':121,155 'use':78 'usleep':157 've':188 'via':21 'want':25 'wherea':67 'work':44,73 'wrong':177 'www.diodes.com':16 'www.diodes.com/assets/datasheets/74ahc595.pdf))':15 'zoom':60"
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date: 2023-09-27 21:22:49.0 +02:00
}
+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1695841461 {#2111
date: 2023-09-27 21:04:21.0 +02:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
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App\Entity\Entry {#2101
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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+slug: "Shift-register-missing-bits"
+title: "Shift register missing bits"
+url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/7da4f08e-8d93-4cf1-99c9-22f2aea08d32.png"
+body: """
Hey friends,\n
\n
I have a two [daisy chained shift registers](https://i.imgur.com/tZBQ45e.png) ([74AHC595](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/74AHC595.pdf)) which are controlled via an ESP32. I want to set one output to high at a time before switching to the next.\n
\n
The code seems to work, but the outputs O_9 and O_10 are not [staying high](https://i.imgur.com/v5OOE1K.png) ([zoom](https://i.imgur.com/VpMbdW3.png)) after setting them, whereas all the other ones are working fine. This is the used code snipped:\n
\n
```\n
\n
<span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_CLK, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">pinMode(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, OUTPUT);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_N_EN, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">uint16_t input_bin = 0b1000000000000000;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">for(int i=0; i<17; i++){\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte upper_byte = input_bin >> 8;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> byte lower_byte = input_bin & 0x00FF;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, LOW);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, lower_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> shiftDataOut(SHIFT_OUT_DATA, SHIFT_OUT_CLK, MSBFIRST, upper_byte);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> usleep(10);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> digitalWrite(SHIFT_OUT_LATCH, HIGH);\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> delay(10)\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;"> input_bin = input_bin>>1;\n
</span><span style="color:#323232;">} \n
</span>\n
```\n
\n
Is there anything I’m doing wrong, or any idea on where the problem may lie? I’ve already tried looking for shorts and other error sources, but the design was manufactured on a PCB and no assembly issues are noticeable.
"""
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App\Entity\Entry {#2116
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I’m trying to build a esp8266 weather station and got some MCP1700-3302E to power the esp8266 from a lipo. But when I connect the lipo to the MCP1700 (looking at it flat spot at the front, ground left, Vin in the middle and Vout on the right) I get no output at Vout. I googled and could not find anything. I tested 5 different ones and it’s the same for all of them. Could I just have a batch of broken ones? Edit: attached a picture of my very simple test setup Edit 2: I just connected three lipo directly to Vin, that seems to work without any problems (at least for a few days now)\n
\n
"""
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2116
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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I’m trying to build a esp8266 weather station and got some MCP1700-3302E to power the esp8266 from a lipo. But when I connect the lipo to the MCP1700 (looking at it flat spot at the front, ground left, Vin in the middle and Vout on the right) I get no output at Vout. I googled and could not find anything. I tested 5 different ones and it’s the same for all of them. Could I just have a batch of broken ones? Edit: attached a picture of my very simple test setup Edit 2: I just connected three lipo directly to Vin, that seems to work without any problems (at least for a few days now)\n
\n
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App\Entity\Entry {#2116
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
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I’m trying to build a esp8266 weather station and got some MCP1700-3302E to power the esp8266 from a lipo. But when I connect the lipo to the MCP1700 (looking at it flat spot at the front, ground left, Vin in the middle and Vout on the right) I get no output at Vout. I googled and could not find anything. I tested 5 different ones and it’s the same for all of them. Could I just have a batch of broken ones? Edit: attached a picture of my very simple test setup Edit 2: I just connected three lipo directly to Vin, that seems to work without any problems (at least for a few days now)\n
\n
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App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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