Symfony Profiler

Key	Value
provider	security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context	main
entry_point	App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker	App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler	(none)
access_denied_url	(none)
authenticators	[`"two_factor" "remember_me" "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator" "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator" "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator" "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator" "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"`]

Listener	Duration	Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723`-map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …} -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -httpPort: 80 -httpsPort: 443`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …} -sessionKey: "_security_main" -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …} -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …} -registered: false -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …} -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}}	1.07 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584`-authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582`-twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …} -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}`}	0.06 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …} -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -options: [ "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token" "csrf_token_id" => "logout" "logout_path" => "app_logout" ] -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …} -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …} -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)

#	Voter class
1	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2	"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5	"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6	"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7	"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8	"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9	"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10	"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11	"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12	"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13	"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14	"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

1

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

2

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1787
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1775 …}
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
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    Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
    \n
    2 questions:\n
    \n
    1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
    2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
    \n
    Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
    """
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}

3

DENIED

edit

App\Entity\Entry {#1787
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1775 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1632 …}
  +slug: "Reuse-cellphone-battery-for-robotics"
  +title: "Reuse cellphone battery for robotics"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
    \n
    2 questions:\n
    \n
    1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
    2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
    \n
    Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
    """
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}

4

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1787
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1775 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1632 …}
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  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, I found an old cellphone battery (from a Pixel3A phone) and I’d like to reuse it for my robotics experiments. (link to images: [imgur.com/a/Oj09tai](https://imgur.com/a/Oj09tai))\n
    \n
    2 questions:\n
    \n
    1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
    2. how could I recharge the battery?\n
    \n
    Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
    """
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}

5

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

6

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1697
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    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
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      ---
      """
    +rules: null
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      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
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  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1632 …}
  +slug: "Can-I-switch-this-constant-current-LED-driver-at-38kHz"
  +title: "Can I switch this constant current LED driver at 38kHz?"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
    \n
    I can already output the signal on a pin of my microcontroller. The signal has a carrier frequency of 38kHz.\n
    \n
    I am however limited to a 5V 1A power supply and would like to drive the LED as close to the 5W psu limit as possible.\n
    \n
    I first thought about using a MOSFET like [this AO3400A](https://aosmd.com/sites/default/files/res/data_sheets/AO3400A.pdf) together with a resistor, but decided it was worth using an LED driver, do you agree?\n
    \n
    Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
    \n
    I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
    """
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7

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    My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
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    \n
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    \n
    I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
    """
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8

DENIED

moderate

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    My goal is to drive an infrared LED like ([this SFH 4727AS](https://dammedia.osram.info/media/resource/hires/osram-dam-5723342/SFH%204727AS_EN.pdf)) to control IR remote controlled devices (for example a TV).\n
    \n
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    \n
    Now I’m looking at [this PAM2804](https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/PAM2804.pdf) constant current LED driver but I’m not sure if I can just supply my signal to the EN pin. The EN pin is meant for PWM-dimming, so does that mean the output is smoothed to prevent flickering?\n
    \n
    I’d love to hear your thoughts about how I should go about this. Thanks
    """
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9

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ROLE_USER

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10

DENIED

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    \n
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    \n
    ```\n
    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
    <span style="color:#323232;">       On\n
    </span><span style="color:#323232;">       |\n
    </span>\n
    ```\n
    \n
    (On) - Off - (On)\n
    \n
    I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
    \n
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    \n
    Thanks in advance!
    """
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11

DENIED

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    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
    <span style="color:#323232;">       On\n
    </span><span style="color:#323232;">       |\n
    </span>\n
    ```\n
    \n
    (On) - Off - (On)\n
    \n
    I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
    \n
    I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
    \n
    Thanks in advance!
    """
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12

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    \n
    I had in mind something like a 2-axis Toggle switch that will have in the X-axis an MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn configuration which will allow me to trim when in manual mode, but there should also be a fourth position (3rd Throw) above or below the ‘Off’ which would be a maintained On. Hopefully my diagram below explains the kind of switch I’m after too:\n
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    <pre style="background-color:#ffffff;">\n
    <span style="color:#323232;">       On\n
    </span><span style="color:#323232;">       |\n
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    ```\n
    \n
    (On) - Off - (On)\n
    \n
    I have spent about a day searching for something like this, and the only things I have found are a few old Cutler-Hammer aviation switches which seemed to do exactly this (8905K514, 8905K671, and 8905K608), but these are rare and expensive, and I wanted something I could easily get spares for.\n
    \n
    I know I could achieve similar using a combination of two or more switches, but I feel it would be more elegant to have one switch that does everything. Does anyone have any suggestions?\n
    \n
    Thanks in advance!
    """
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13

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15

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    When off, it consumes less than 1 uA. So it has about 25 years of standby time, although the battery is only rated for 10 years (it is replaceable though).\n
    \n
    If a child uses it every day, then the battery should last about 4.5 months.\n
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    I made custom boards for it -- I kept is simple with few components as possible (resistor is for scale):\n
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    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/7251a080-676e-413d-b9d7-277388f7c8ea.jpeg)\n
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    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/c89f001b-7f44-4d5b-9e9c-f1da5e97dae0.jpeg)\n
    \n
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    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/c89f001b-7f44-4d5b-9e9c-f1da5e97dae0.jpeg)\n
    \n
    I used some spay-on lacquer to protect the traces a bit after assembly.
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17

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19

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20

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23

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24

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25

DENIED

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26

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27

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36

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    I’m getting a little bit frustrated with my AliExpress 2.54mm dupont ribbon cables. The female housings get loose after just a few cycles, and the connections start falling apart easily.\n
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    I’ve gotten some Amphenol Mini-PV 47649-000LF, which are amazing and are close-enough to being compatible with a standard dupont housing. But it’s a hassle to crimp the wires myself, especially when I just need another female-female 6in wire.\n
    \n
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    \n
    There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
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    There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
    """
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    Hi all\n
    \n
    I’m working on a DIY 18650 lithium ion home battery, built out of old laptop/ebike cells that have been tested for performance (capacity, internal resistance and temperature during cycle) and found to be good enough for use.\n
    \n
    There are several safety precautions in my setup. Each cell has a 1A current fuse and a 60C thermal fuse attached to it(in series). Should a cell overheat or develop an internal short, the cell gets deactivated easily without fancy electronics. (protip, don’t hotglue thermal fuses!) The BMS is a DALY BMS rated for 60A, although I’ll probably never use it above 30. Additionally, an Arduino monitors the individual cell voltages as well as overall temperature (secondary BMS that can communicate over serial to a proper webserver.). This Arduino also watches a smoke detector and controls a solenoid killswitch should anything fishy happen, like overvoltage/temperature or the smoke sensor triggering.\n
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    \n
    Should, god forbid, a cell actually catch fire despite all safety measures I want to have the battery in a fire safe container as well. An iron cabinet like the IKEA Lixhult won’t melt in case of battery fire but it will vent hot fumes that could set surrounding objects on fire. What would be a good way to engineer that? A metal cabinet with a metal chimney attached to it? So that the hot fumes get directed away from flammable objects? Perhaps something built out of stone where sand bags may be placed above the battery. Fire would cause the sand to drop on the batteries and smother it.\n
    \n
    There isn’t any way to crosspost on Lemmy right?
    """
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44

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45

DENIED

ROLE_USER

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47

DENIED

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48

DENIED

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    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
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    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
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    Hi everyone, I’ve just resurrected a broken Weller TCP1 and need a 24v ac supply for it.\n
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    I have a 23.5-0-23.5v toroid that I was just going to use half the winding - but it’s overkill (8A rating) and going to be very big and heavy.\n
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    To make matters more annoying, I have a $5 almost certainly counterfeit USB serial adapter with USB on one end and DuPont connectors on the other end and it works fine, so at this point my problem is mostly academic. I would like to know what I’m doing wrong, though.
    """
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55

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56

DENIED

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57

DENIED

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58

DENIED

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    Hi all! I recently purchased some push-lights for my kitchen from my hardware store, and I stupidly didn’t read the package that said that they shut off after 30 mins. This is super inconvenient in my dark kitchen, and I can’t return them. I figured I might as well tinker with them, and any help would be greatly appreciated. The first picture is the small, round push-light (it was in a 3 pack, so I’ve got room for error with these), and the second picture was the even bigger disappointment because it’s a larger strip light.\n
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    I found them online for reference [here](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XWVHS2/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1) and [here](https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-20-LED-Wireless-Anywhere-Rectangular/dp/B00VSKK0V0/ref=asc_df_B00VSKK0V0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144278306&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4849414619089547294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004342&hvtargid=pla-274917460229&psc=1). It doesn’t say they shut off in the description of these, but it says it in the user manual under “product guides and documents” for the rectangle light.\n
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    TL;DR: Help me bypass the “power saving” mode that shuts these off after 30 mins please!\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
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59

DENIED

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    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/f386ddb6-0c61-47b0-9bcf-095473a000a6.jpeg)![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/6cd1d3f5-592f-4238-b401-8c4708ad0901.png)
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65

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67

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68

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69

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71

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72

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83

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84

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85

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87

DENIED

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88

DENIED

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89

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90

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91

DENIED

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92

DENIED

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