Symfony Profiler

Key	Value
provider	security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context	main
entry_point	App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker	App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler	(none)
access_denied_url	(none)
authenticators	[`"two_factor" "remember_me" "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator" "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator" "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator" "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator" "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"`]

Listener	Duration	Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723`-map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …} -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -httpPort: 80 -httpsPort: 443`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …} -sessionKey: "_security_main" -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …} -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …} -registered: false -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …} -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}}	8.29 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584`-authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582`-twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …} -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}`}	0.06 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …} -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -options: [ "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token" "csrf_token_id" => "logout" "logout_path" => "app_logout" ] -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …} -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …} -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)

#	Voter class
1	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2	"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5	"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6	"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7	"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8	"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9	"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10	"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11	"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12	"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13	"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14	"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

1

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

2

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#2489
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
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  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1368 …}
  +slug: "Mixer-makes-loud-pop-when-powered-on"
  +title: "Mixer makes loud pop when powered on"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
    \n
    I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
    \n
    There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
    \n
    +15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
    \n
    to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
    \n
    I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
    \n
    Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
    \n
    Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
    """
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  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696509960 {#1367
    date: 2023-10-05 14:46:00.0 +02:00
  }
}

3

DENIED

edit

App\Entity\Entry {#2489
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1451 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#328
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#282 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#275 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#264 …}
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  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1368 …}
  +slug: "Mixer-makes-loud-pop-when-powered-on"
  +title: "Mixer makes loud pop when powered on"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
    \n
    I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
    \n
    There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
    \n
    +15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
    \n
    to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
    \n
    I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
    \n
    Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
    \n
    Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
    """
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  +lang: "en"
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  +hasEmbed: false
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  +children: []
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  -titleTs: "'loud':3 'make':2 'mixer':1 'pop':4 'power':6"
  -bodyTs: "'+15':105 '+48':109 '-15':107 '802':7 'agnd':106 'ago':204 'analog':88 'anyon':298 'anyway':257 'appear':95,133 'assum':67,142 'better':244 'big':82 'board':83,102,116,161,259,309 'bought':202 'cap':131,168 'central':192 'child':289 'code':311,315 'come':215 'connect':117 'connector':252 'could':58,319 'cours':342 'day':213,220 'dig':322 'edit':193 'either':45 'els':54 'employe':318 'feed':104 'felt':269 'figur':211 'find':60,334 'fine':256 'fix':55 'folk':2 'found':72 'get':243 'gnd':108 'good':279 'handi':263 'harvest':46 'have/can':305 'haven':75,206 'hey':1 'hit':294 'hole':51 'kid':280 'kill':27 'leaki':136 'let':275 'like':270,300 'littl':197 'll':331 'look':124,231 'lot':164 'm':21,141,235 'macki':6,317 'magnifi':126 'mani':48 'measur':222 'mixer':9,112 'moment':284 'monitor':34 'narsti':13 'need':180 'non':247 'non-spik':246 'none':132 'one':28 'organ':52 'oscilloscop':199 'other':296 'past':339 'photo':307 'pop':14 'power':100,150,157,160,175,227,249 'presum':314 'pretti':22,191,236 'probabl':218 'put':38,152 'qualiti':245 're':190 'realli':166,173 'right':264 'safe':273 'schemat':62,324 'second':266 'see':93,302 'separ':99 'servic':41 'solder':120 'someth':145 'spike':155,224,248 'still':170 'stop':293 'studi':184 'suppli':101,151,176,228 'suppos':188,329 'sure':23,237 'swole':138 'take':306 'thick':119 'through-hol':49 'tini':167,198 'today':336 'touch':277 'tri':332 'turn':17 'two':115 'understand':174 'unfavor':288 'use':208,320 'vlz4':8 'warranti':340 'well':178 'wire':121 'won':291 'woofer':31 'would':214,260,299 'year':203 'yet':77,209"
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  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1696509960 {#1367
    date: 2023-10-05 14:46:00.0 +02:00
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}

4

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#2489
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1451 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
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    +entryCommentCount: 1230
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    +isAdult: false
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    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#282 …}
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      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
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  +image: null
  +domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1368 …}
  +slug: "Mixer-makes-loud-pop-when-powered-on"
  +title: "Mixer makes loud pop when powered on"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hey folks, I have a Mackie 802-VLZ4 mixer which does this narsty pop when you turn it on; I’m pretty sure it’s what killed one of the woofers in my monitors. It has been put out of service and I will either harvest its many through-hole organs or else fix it.\n
    \n
    I could not find a schematic, but I don’t assume it can’t be found, I just haven’t yet. It’s not a big board but it’s all analog from what I can see.\n
    \n
    There appears to be a separate power supply board which feeds\n
    \n
    +15 AGND -15 GND +48\n
    \n
    to the mixer, which is two boards connected by thick soldered wires.\n
    \n
    I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
    \n
    Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
    \n
    Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
    """
  +type: "article"
  +lang: "en"
  +isOc: false
  +hasEmbed: false
  +commentCount: 5
  +favouriteCount: 8
  +score: 0
  +isAdult: false
  +sticky: false
  +lastActive: DateTime @1702136056 {#1378
    date: 2023-12-09 16:34:16.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
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  +tags: null
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  +comments: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1898 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1426 …}
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11

DENIED

edit

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12

DENIED

moderate

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13

DENIED

ROLE_USER

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14

DENIED

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15

DENIED

edit

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16

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19

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    I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
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    \n
    I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
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    \n
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    I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
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    The error modes I could observe are:\n
    \n
    1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
    2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
    \n
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    My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
    \n
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    - Some component is broken\n
    - Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
    \n
    For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
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23

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24

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25

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31

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    ![](https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/pictrs/image/07fd842b-73f6-4706-8b8b-2a2dbb6aa75e.jpeg)
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    \n
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    - Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
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    **Background:**\n
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    I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
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    The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
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    \n
    For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
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    **Questions:**\n
    \n
    - Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
    - Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
    \n
    **Background:**\n
    \n
    I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
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    \n
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    I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be &gt;528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
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    **Questions:**\n
    \n
    - Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
    - Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
    \n
    **Background:**\n
    \n
    I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
    \n
    The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
    \n
    **Method:**\n
    \n
    I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be &gt;528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
    \n
    For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
    """
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  +url: null
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    Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
    \n
    This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
    \n
    It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
    \n
    The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
    \n
    At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
    \n
    Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
    \n
    The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
    \n
    Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
    \n
    `J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
    \n
    There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
    \n
    Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
    \n
    While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
    \n
    In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
    \n
    3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): ![3D Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/e10e7dc8-b4af-4500-8892-b720fc872521.png)\n
    \n
    Orthographic view from front: ![Orthographic Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1bc119bd-4eca-49d1-9985-72491ed37276.png)\n
    \n
    Schematic:\n
    \n
    ![Schematic](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/9ae85da3-3d33-4e58-b616-47c427a9dadb.png)\n
    \n
    PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): ![All layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/acbcd718-af07-499b-a7c6-af473b2bb7d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: ![Front layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/59d2d309-567c-4827-bc0d-56cccf5e37d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: ![Back layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/45aad0ae-f5a7-48d9-b4ec-ed2e70903c00.png)
    """
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39

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  +title: "PCB Design Review Request: ESP32 Smart Relay Board"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
    \n
    This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
    \n
    It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
    \n
    The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
    \n
    At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
    \n
    Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
    \n
    The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
    \n
    Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
    \n
    `J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
    \n
    There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
    \n
    Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
    \n
    While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
    \n
    In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
    \n
    3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): ![3D Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/e10e7dc8-b4af-4500-8892-b720fc872521.png)\n
    \n
    Orthographic view from front: ![Orthographic Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1bc119bd-4eca-49d1-9985-72491ed37276.png)\n
    \n
    Schematic:\n
    \n
    ![Schematic](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/9ae85da3-3d33-4e58-b616-47c427a9dadb.png)\n
    \n
    PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): ![All layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/acbcd718-af07-499b-a7c6-af473b2bb7d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: ![Front layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/59d2d309-567c-4827-bc0d-56cccf5e37d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: ![Back layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/45aad0ae-f5a7-48d9-b4ec-ed2e70903c00.png)
    """
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      \n
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  +slug: "PCB-Design-Review-Request-ESP32-Smart-Relay-Board"
  +title: "PCB Design Review Request: ESP32 Smart Relay Board"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
    \n
    This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
    \n
    It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
    \n
    The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
    \n
    At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
    \n
    Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
    \n
    The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
    \n
    Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
    \n
    `J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
    \n
    There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
    \n
    Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
    \n
    While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
    \n
    In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
    \n
    3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): ![3D Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/e10e7dc8-b4af-4500-8892-b720fc872521.png)\n
    \n
    Orthographic view from front: ![Orthographic Front](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/1bc119bd-4eca-49d1-9985-72491ed37276.png)\n
    \n
    Schematic:\n
    \n
    ![Schematic](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/9ae85da3-3d33-4e58-b616-47c427a9dadb.png)\n
    \n
    PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): ![All layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/acbcd718-af07-499b-a7c6-af473b2bb7d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: ![Front layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/59d2d309-567c-4827-bc0d-56cccf5e37d1.png)\n
    \n
    PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: ![Back layers](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/45aad0ae-f5a7-48d9-b4ec-ed2e70903c00.png)
    """
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    So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
    \n
    I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
    \n
    - Cable A \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    - Cable B \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
    - Cable C \n
        - Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    \n
    **So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
    """
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43

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    So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
    \n
    I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
    \n
    - Cable A \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    - Cable B \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
    - Cable C \n
        - Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    \n
    **So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
    """
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44

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      \n
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      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
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  +body: """
    So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
    \n
    I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
    \n
    - Cable A \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    - Cable B \n
        - Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
    - Cable C \n
        - Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
        - Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
        - Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
    \n
    **So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
    """
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45

DENIED

ROLE_USER

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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
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  +slug: "Do-AA-Battery-Holders-Connected-in-Parallel-so-still-1-5V"
  +title: "Do AA Battery Holders - Connected in Parallel so still 1.5V - Exist?"
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    Hello,\n
    \n
    Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
    \n
    Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
    \n
    Would appreciate comment.
    """
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47

DENIED

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51

DENIED

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52

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56

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    I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
    \n
    Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
    \n
    Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
    \n
    Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
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    """
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59

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    I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
    \n
    Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
    \n
    Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
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    Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
    \n
    The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
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60

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    \n
    Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
    \n
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    """
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61

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  +body: """
    Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
    \n
    That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
    \n
    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/bcdf7c0f-70f7-426d-9fef-d3d7191cf93e.jpeg)\n
    \n
    Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
    \n
    I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
    \n
    What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
    \n
    Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
    \n
    I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
    \n
    What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
    \n
    On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
    \n
    Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
    """
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63

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    Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
    \n
    That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
    \n
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    \n
    Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
    \n
    I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
    \n
    What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
    \n
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    \n
    I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
    \n
    What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
    \n
    On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
    \n
    Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
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64

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    Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
    \n
    That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
    \n
    ![](https://voltage.vn/pictrs/image/bcdf7c0f-70f7-426d-9fef-d3d7191cf93e.jpeg)\n
    \n
    Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
    \n
    I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
    \n
    What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
    \n
    Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
    \n
    I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
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    What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
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    \n
    Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
    """
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    \n
    This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
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    However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
    \n
    Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
    """
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    I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
    \n
    My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/9d173f1d-8412-4129-8ae1-c549a7895107.png)\n
    \n
    I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
    \n
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    - `R1 || R2 &lt; 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
    \n
    This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
    \n
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    \n
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    \n
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    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/970e3840-fcbb-46dd-92fb-8903b89149a0.png)\n
    \n
    This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
    \n
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    \n
    Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
    """
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    Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
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79

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80

DENIED

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81

DENIED

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82

DENIED

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83

DENIED

edit

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84

DENIED

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85

DENIED

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86

DENIED

moderate

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87

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88

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91

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101

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