Symfony Profiler

Key	Value
provider	security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context	main
entry_point	App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker	App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler	(none)
access_denied_url	(none)
authenticators	[`"two_factor" "remember_me" "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator" "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator" "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator" "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator" "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"`]

Listener	Duration	Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723`-map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …} -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -httpPort: 80 -httpsPort: 443`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …} -sessionKey: "_security_main" -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …} -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …} -registered: false -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …} -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}}	0.89 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584`-authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582`-twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …} -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}`}	0.05 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …} -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -options: [ "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token" "csrf_token_id" => "logout" "logout_path" => "app_logout" ] -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …} -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …} -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)

#	Voter class
1	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2	"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5	"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6	"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7	"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8	"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9	"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10	"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11	"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12	"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13	"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14	"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

1

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

2

DENIED

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      \n
      Rules\n
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      \n
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      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
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3

DENIED

edit

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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
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      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
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4

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1391
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1443 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
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      -----\n
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      """
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}

5

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

6

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1440
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1429 …}
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      -----\n
      \n
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  +slug: "Advice-Request-managing-thermal-pads-for-SMD-components-in-custom"
  +title: "[Advice Request]: managing thermal pads for SMD components in custom PCB"
  +url: null
  +body: """
    cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
    \n
    > Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
    > \n
    > I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
    > \n
    > Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
    > \n
    > I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
    > \n
    > Thanks!\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
    """
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    cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
    \n
    > Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
    > \n
    > I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
    > \n
    > Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
    > \n
    > I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
    > \n
    > Thanks!\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
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    cross-posted from: [sh.itjust.works/post/13637559](https://sh.itjust.works/post/13637559)\n
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    > Hello everyone, I need some advice.\n
    > \n
    > I am making custom PCBs for a project of mine. It’s basically for a little remotely controlled robot using little DC motors. I chose the Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32C3 as the uC since it has inbuilt wifi/bt, 3.3V regulator that I can use to power the motors (can source up to 700mA) and lipo charging management (the robots will run on battery). As you can see from [here](https://www.seeedstudio.com/Seeed-XIAO-ESP32C3-p-5431.html), the microcontroller is surface mounted and the pads for the battery are on the bottom layer. Same story goes for the thermal pad of the microcontroller and the thermal pad of the motor driver ([datasheet](https://www.tme.eu/Document/9504b4c07574a91a7b207d08475bca04/A3901.pdf)). I have worked with SMD components in the past and can solder them by hand, but I have never worked with SMD components that have thermal pads on the bottom layer. My question is: how to manage (route?) them? My PCB is 2-layer and I was planning on having both layers filled with a ground plane. Do I just connect thermal pads to the ground plane and call it a day? Wouldn’t that make the components hard to solder with hot air? Do I make an isolated polygon that only acts as a thermal pad?\n
    > \n
    > Speaking of soldering is even hot air the way to go in this case? My PCB has components on both sides, and I was planning on ordering stencils together with the boards and using solder paste, placing the components and then using hot air to solder the components in place. I thought a hot plate would be better but I don’t have access to one and I don’t know how that works with components on both sides.\n
    > \n
    > I attached some photos of the PCB in Kicad, and [here’s](https://github.com/EmaMaker/AMazeIng-robots) the git repo. If it is of any help, I’m planning of having them manifactured by JLCPCB. It is also my first time using KiCad, so go easy on me :)\n
    > \n
    > Thanks!\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/ztw2pb.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/hytn9j.png)\n
    > \n
    > [![](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)](https://files.catbox.moe/l9nqcb.png)
    """
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11

DENIED

edit

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12

DENIED

moderate

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13

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

14

DENIED

moderate

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15

DENIED

edit

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16

DENIED

moderate

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    the driver problem was only with my WiFi adapter, and I fixed that by removing the current driver (rtl8812ub) and installing another driver (rtl8811au), which fixed the problem :))\n
    \n
    thanks for the help :))
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31

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33

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35

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36

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    I’m trying to control a “dumb” led light strip segment with an ESP-01S. This is fairly low current, the strip will pull 150mA-200mA max (depends on… artistic? needs).\n
    \n
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43

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44

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    > I’ve got an antique lamp that needs a new switch knob, but then scope-creep happened and now I want to “smartify” it. I started off thinking that, since it has a metal body, I’d install a [capacitive touch switch](https://www.amazon.com/Control-Replacement-Function-Dimmable-Incandescent/dp/B095P35P2Q), but now it’s escalated to wanting to put an ESP8266 or ESP32 in it to handle the capacitive sensing, Home Assistant connectivity/control, and maybe even switching to some kind of low-voltage RGBW LED instead of a 120VAC Edison-base bulb (especially since I suspect I’d need some kind of antenna sticking out the top, since the metal lamp body would presumably otherwise block the ESP32’s signal).\n
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    > The lamp, BTW:\n
    > \n
    > ![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/70/db/e3/70dbe34d4bf21ce783038375d446955a.jpg)\n
    > \n
    > (Apparently it’s a Genie lamp by Laurel Lamp Company, in case anybody cares. Also, the lamp shown is the same model, but it’s not my picture.)\n
    > \n
    > I’m aware that the “easy” way would probably be to just screw a smart light bulb into the socket and wiring I already have, but (a) I’m picky about both avoiding “clouds” and using FOSS firmware, and I don’t feel like sorting through the junk on Amazon to figure out which ones can be flashed with ESPHome, and more practically (b) that wouldn’t let me turn it on and off just by touching the lamp body, which is what sent me down this rabbit-hole in the first place.\n
    > \n
    > Anyway, I know this sort of thing *can* be done, but I’m not completely sure *how*. I know I could figure it out myself eventually, but I figured it couldn’t hurt to ask for advice in case somebody happens to be able to rattle off part numbers for the whole BOM off the top of their head, or knows exactly the right ESPHome howto to point me towards, or something like that. Any advice is welcome!\n
    > \n
    > (In case it’s relevant: my level of experience is that I programmed an Arduino to run neopixels (WS2812 RGB addressable LEDs) once, I’ve flashed ESPHome on some Sonoff S31 smart switches, and I’m a software engineer by trade but have never worked on anything IoT related professionally.)
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    cross-posted from: [lemmy.world/post/9052986](https://lemmy.world/post/9052986)\n
    \n
    > I’ve got an antique lamp that needs a new switch knob, but then scope-creep happened and now I want to “smartify” it. I started off thinking that, since it has a metal body, I’d install a [capacitive touch switch](https://www.amazon.com/Control-Replacement-Function-Dimmable-Incandescent/dp/B095P35P2Q), but now it’s escalated to wanting to put an ESP8266 or ESP32 in it to handle the capacitive sensing, Home Assistant connectivity/control, and maybe even switching to some kind of low-voltage RGBW LED instead of a 120VAC Edison-base bulb (especially since I suspect I’d need some kind of antenna sticking out the top, since the metal lamp body would presumably otherwise block the ESP32’s signal).\n
    > \n
    > The lamp, BTW:\n
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    > ![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/70/db/e3/70dbe34d4bf21ce783038375d446955a.jpg)\n
    > \n
    > (Apparently it’s a Genie lamp by Laurel Lamp Company, in case anybody cares. Also, the lamp shown is the same model, but it’s not my picture.)\n
    > \n
    > I’m aware that the “easy” way would probably be to just screw a smart light bulb into the socket and wiring I already have, but (a) I’m picky about both avoiding “clouds” and using FOSS firmware, and I don’t feel like sorting through the junk on Amazon to figure out which ones can be flashed with ESPHome, and more practically (b) that wouldn’t let me turn it on and off just by touching the lamp body, which is what sent me down this rabbit-hole in the first place.\n
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    > \n
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    cross-posted from: [lemmy.world/post/9052986](https://lemmy.world/post/9052986)\n
    \n
    > I’ve got an antique lamp that needs a new switch knob, but then scope-creep happened and now I want to “smartify” it. I started off thinking that, since it has a metal body, I’d install a [capacitive touch switch](https://www.amazon.com/Control-Replacement-Function-Dimmable-Incandescent/dp/B095P35P2Q), but now it’s escalated to wanting to put an ESP8266 or ESP32 in it to handle the capacitive sensing, Home Assistant connectivity/control, and maybe even switching to some kind of low-voltage RGBW LED instead of a 120VAC Edison-base bulb (especially since I suspect I’d need some kind of antenna sticking out the top, since the metal lamp body would presumably otherwise block the ESP32’s signal).\n
    > \n
    > The lamp, BTW:\n
    > \n
    > ![](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/70/db/e3/70dbe34d4bf21ce783038375d446955a.jpg)\n
    > \n
    > (Apparently it’s a Genie lamp by Laurel Lamp Company, in case anybody cares. Also, the lamp shown is the same model, but it’s not my picture.)\n
    > \n
    > I’m aware that the “easy” way would probably be to just screw a smart light bulb into the socket and wiring I already have, but (a) I’m picky about both avoiding “clouds” and using FOSS firmware, and I don’t feel like sorting through the junk on Amazon to figure out which ones can be flashed with ESPHome, and more practically (b) that wouldn’t let me turn it on and off just by touching the lamp body, which is what sent me down this rabbit-hole in the first place.\n
    > \n
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    > \n
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51

DENIED

edit

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52

DENIED

moderate

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53

DENIED

ROLE_USER

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54

DENIED

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55

DENIED

edit

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    \n
    I have looked with magnifiers on at all the caps, none appear to be leaky or swole, but I’m assuming this has *something* to do with the power supply putting out a spike at power on. The power board has a lot of really tiny caps, I still don’t really understand power supplies that well. I need to do more studying of them I suppose, they’re pretty central.\n
    \n
    Edit: I have a little tiny oscilloscope that I bought years ago and haven’t used yet, just figured the day would come. This is probably that day, to measure that spike from the power supply. From the looks of it I’m pretty sure that if I can just get better quality, non-spiking power to those connectors it should be fine.\n
    \n
    Anyways this board would be very handy right this second if I felt like it was safe to let it touch my good kids, but at the moment it’s the unfavored child who won’t stop hitting the others. If anyone would like to see them I have/can take photos. The boards have codes on them, presumably codes that Mackie employees could use to dig up schematics, but will they? I suppose I’ll try to find out today. It’s past warranty of course.
    """
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    """
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    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
    Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. &gt; Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
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59

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  +body: """
    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
    Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. &gt; Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
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    Hi, I'm new here (never used this entire platform before, but as the askElectronics reddit is down I thought i'd follow the trail to lemmy and see what's what). Hopefully this works!\n
    \n
    Ok so I have the following -\n
    \n
    A variable boost converter [This](https://www.componentsinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/mt3608-module-pinout-specs.jpg) - set to 12v output.\n
    \n
    Two sets of 2x 18650 batteries\n
    \n
    A 12v LED strip.\n
    \n
    The two circuits I'm sanity checking -\n
    \n
    1. Two 18650s in series, outputting about 8v, going to the boost (which ups it to 12v) and lighting up the 12v LEDS.\n
    2. Two 18650s in parallel, outputting about 4v, going to the same boost (which still ups it to 12v, so that's working fine and seems to be within its working range), lighting up the 12v LEDs.\n
    \n
    Question I wanted to check - Far as I am aware, both of these circuits should be fine and do the job. And I'm aware of how series vs parallel usually works (eg. double the voltage, vs double the capacity). However I've never used them with a voltage booster that sets things to a fixed output voltage.\n
    \n
    I am assuming that the way the voltage booster works, means it will 'drain' the parallel circuit twice as fast as the series circuit. And so both will end up running the LEDs for the same amount of time. This sounds right in my head but wanted to confirm before I soldered all my connections.\n
    \n
    Also wondered if, in this scenario, the general recommendation is to go with the parallel or the series circuit. I wonder if the series might have less losses through the boost circuit through heating etc, but I was just guessing.\n
    \n
    Thanks! Long first lemmy post haha. &gt; Unfortunately after posting this I discovered the TP4056 board won’t charge 18650s in series, only in parallel!\n
    \n
    Edit: While it seems that running the cells in series would be more efficient, I have the issue that I recharge them using a TP4056 board, and they are only compatible with charging cells in parallel and not in series!
    """
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    To all the electronic nerds out there: I am trying to trigger a 555 timer by movement in a random direction that also occurs randomly and any change in position should trigger the 555. AFAIK tilt switches are not useable here. Does this idea make sense?\n
    \n
    Ferrite core In orange, spool in blue.\n
    \n
    ![](https://lemmy.one/pictrs/image/cad20fd4-13c9-4221-a2cc-356545cd4abf.png)![](https://lemmy.one/pictrs/image/fff5e96c-dd84-4e32-8931-ebf0e99ab3ee.png)Would there be a voltage generated by movement if the core is suspended by some kind of spring or rubber band?\n
    \n
    The idea being to play a sound from a df mini player by pulling a pin high for 3 seconds.
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    To all the electronic nerds out there: I am trying to trigger a 555 timer by movement in a random direction that also occurs randomly and any change in position should trigger the 555. AFAIK tilt switches are not useable here. Does this idea make sense?\n
    \n
    Ferrite core In orange, spool in blue.\n
    \n
    ![](https://lemmy.one/pictrs/image/cad20fd4-13c9-4221-a2cc-356545cd4abf.png)![](https://lemmy.one/pictrs/image/fff5e96c-dd84-4e32-8931-ebf0e99ab3ee.png)Would there be a voltage generated by movement if the core is suspended by some kind of spring or rubber band?\n
    \n
    The idea being to play a sound from a df mini player by pulling a pin high for 3 seconds.
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67

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68

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75

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76

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77

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79

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    \n
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    \n
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83

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    Best, N
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101

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edit

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