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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Currently, only one company in the world – [ASML](https://www.asml.com/en) – has the technological capability necessary for the creation of photolithography machines which are sufficient for the production of modern semiconductor devices. What I’m wondering is at what point does semiconductor manufacturing become practical, or even feesible for small organizations, or independents? One must be able to surpass the cost of the machines, and the resources necessary to manufacture them. I presume that a company like ASML is also extremely picky – willfully, or by regulation, or otherwise – about who they lend their technology to.\n
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Show voter details
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| 5 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\Entry {#1697
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\n
Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 7 |
DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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So I’m a refrigeration tech with some electronics manufacturing experience. But I’ve never combined the 2 skillsets so I’ve been toying with the idea of building a large vapor chamber to cool a computer via direct immersion in a refrigerant. I know its about as far from practical as you can get but it sounds like fun.\n
\n
Ignoring all of the many many other problems with doing this for now the one thing I’m not sure about is how well the electrolytic caps on the various components would survive. I would need to pull a fairly hard (500 micron) vacuum on everything before I charge it with refrigerant. I know most electolytic caps aren’t vacuum rated but I’m not sure if that just means you can’t have them operating in a vacuum or if they will immediately pop if you just subject them to hard vaccum period. Additionally while I am planning on using a low pressure refrigerant (probably some R-123 substitute but I’m definitely still working on that part) the components would all still be subject to pressures of up to about 20 PSIG at the high end. Beyond that point I would probably have an active cooling system kick in just for safety sake. I’m not sure how well the caps in particular would survive being immersed in a liquid under 20 PSIG pressure.\n
\n
Does anyone here have any experience subjecting electrolytic capacitors to hard vacuum or elevated pressure? At what point do they just pop?
"""
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Rules\n
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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1: Be nice.\n
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I’m trying to use an RPi Pico W as a temp/humidity sensor using a DHT20.\n
\n
It kind of works - at least sometimes, but I keep “losing” sensors more or less randomly.\n
\n
I connected everything up like here (using MicroPython): [github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20](https://github.com/flrrth/pico-dht20)There are currently 4 sensor-boards, 3 soldered, one on a breadboard.\n
\n
The error modes I could observe are:\n
\n
1. DHT20 fails to init - sometimes after the first read, sometimes after days. Resetting the machine works sometimes, if not, power cycling usually does the trick\n
2. The board just “stops” after about 5min - the serial console just says “device disconnected”. Power cycling is the only option.\n
\n
My measurement work by having a timer fire every minute, connect to wifi, read from the sensor, and then send an mqtt message (either the values or an error message) and shutdown wifi again.\n
\n
My current ideas why it could fail (but I’m not an electronics guy at all):\n
\n
- There is some kind of “rogue current” messing with some IC.\n
- Some component is broken\n
- Maybe the power draw is too low or issuing sleep() messes with the USB-power connection somehow?\n
\n
For me the problem is, I don’t really know where to look for errors. The software works in principle, the soldering seems to be good enough to sometimes work for days, and looking too deep into the whole electronics side is beyond my capabilities.
"""
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| 25 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
\n
Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
\n
Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
"""
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1561
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\n
Rules\n
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I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
\n
Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
\n
Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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| 28 |
DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
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I’ve recently acquired an uncalibrated Philips PM2534 (edit: the battery-backed factory calibration data was lost due to the battery running out). I’m looking into somehow getting it calibrated. However, the calibration procedure is rather involved, and requires such things as an exact 300V DC (the service manual recommends using a Fuke 5700).\n
\n
Anybody know of a way to have this multimeter calibrated? I’m a hobbyist and don’t really need such things as traceability and certificates.\n
\n
Edit: I live in the Netherlands.
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| 29 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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The idea is to add an extra battery. A lot of people are saying that it isn’t a good idea to put those batteries in series or parallel if the batteries are not exactly he same. Now our idea is to switch between the two batteries with the help of some relais and an Arduino or something. So then + of both batteries would be connected to a relay and after the relay we can connect them together. Is this a good/safe way of doing that? Or will we be running into issues that I’m not seeing.\n
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I want to change te battery setup in the camper van a bit.\n
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I want to change te battery setup in the camper van a bit.\n
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Currently there is a single battery which is charged by either solar, engine or 230v. Then a transformer to 230v to power the outlets.\n
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The idea is to add an extra battery. A lot of people are saying that it isn’t a good idea to put those batteries in series or parallel if the batteries are not exactly he same. Now our idea is to switch between the two batteries with the help of some relais and an Arduino or something. So then + of both batteries would be connected to a relay and after the relay we can connect them together. Is this a good/safe way of doing that? Or will we be running into issues that I’m not seeing.\n
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I’m trying to build a esp8266 weather station and got some MCP1700-3302E to power the esp8266 from a lipo. But when I connect the lipo to the MCP1700 (looking at it flat spot at the front, ground left, Vin in the middle and Vout on the right) I get no output at Vout. I googled and could not find anything. I tested 5 different ones and it’s the same for all of them. Could I just have a batch of broken ones? Edit: attached a picture of my very simple test setup Edit 2: I just connected three lipo directly to Vin, that seems to work without any problems (at least for a few days now)\n
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Show voter details
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Rules\n
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I’m trying to build a esp8266 weather station and got some MCP1700-3302E to power the esp8266 from a lipo. But when I connect the lipo to the MCP1700 (looking at it flat spot at the front, ground left, Vin in the middle and Vout on the right) I get no output at Vout. I googled and could not find anything. I tested 5 different ones and it’s the same for all of them. Could I just have a batch of broken ones? Edit: attached a picture of my very simple test setup Edit 2: I just connected three lipo directly to Vin, that seems to work without any problems (at least for a few days now)\n
\n
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| 37 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 39 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1722
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 40 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1722
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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+title: "How do you determine if 450V caps are in spec?"
+url: null
+body: """
**Questions:**\n
\n
- Can you test 450V high ripple current caps with a any old desktop RCL meter?\n
- Has digikey shipped me faulty units?\n
\n
**Background:**\n
\n
I’ve gotten a couple of 660uF (not a typo, it’s some weird high ripple current caps for an outdoor AC unit) 450V caps to replace some that I decided were duds. Normally I only measure components when troubleshooting, but this being 20USD with vat devices I thought “what the heck, I better”.\n
\n
The caps in question are chemi-con EKHJ451VSN661MA59M [www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/…/17728502](https://www.digikey.dk/en/products/detail/chemi-con/EKHJ451VSN661MA59M/17728502).\n
\n
**Method:**\n
\n
I’m using a Phillips PM6303A, which is a 1kHz RCL meter. Ambiant temp is approx 15°C. The caps have a 20% tolerance, so capacity should be >528uF, but when measuring both caps settle at approx 450uF after a little while. After 16hours it hasn’t deviated for the one cap I’ve left in over night. The dissipation factor, tan(δ), settled at 0.57, while the datasheet states that it shall be no greater than 0.2.\n
\n
For comparison, the caps I thought was faulty, have been running for about 20years, with the same specs, but came out to 550uF and 0.3, and as the spec said 0.2 I decided to change them.
"""
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moderate
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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| 43 |
DENIED
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edit
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+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+url: null
+body: """
Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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+slug: "PCB-Design-Review-Request-ESP32-Smart-Relay-Board"
+title: "PCB Design Review Request: ESP32 Smart Relay Board"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi, this post is structured similarly to r/PrintedCircuitBoard 's review request format. Since we don’t have any PCB communities over here yet, I thought that this might fit in here and can maybe spark some friendly discussion.\n
\n
This is a relay board controlling electrically driven windows and blinds. For this purpose it has some additional connectors to a weather station, interior sensors and an LCD screen.\n
\n
It is replacing a ~20 year old board that has started to develop some annoying quirks. I’ve mostly copied what the original board did and adjusted it for the ESP32. This is not a production board and if all goes well, I will only ever assemble a single one of these.\n
\n
The primary usage scenario is that the MCU will monitor the weather station and then actuate the motor groups (M1 - M6 connected on `J3` - `J8`) to keep the indoors temperature and humidity in check.\n
\n
At least during summer time the board will likely run 24/7 and will hopefully be used for a number of years. For maintenance reasons I’ve tried to keep it simple and the component count low.\n
\n
Mains power is supplied from `J1` and being fed to the motors via the relays. `PS1` converts the line voltage to +5V DC for the relay coils and some auxiliary components. The switching regulator `U2` steps that down to +3.3V for the MCU `U1` and IO Expander `U3`.\n
\n
The board size is mostly constrained by the preexisting mounting holes which gives me plenty of space to work with even with just a 2 layer board. The enclosure containing the mounts is installed indoors and is finger-pokey-tight.\n
\n
Jumper `JP1` allows me to supply the MCU devkit daughter board with +5V, should I ever replace it with a different one. Similarly `J11` exists for future expansion.\n
\n
`J10` mounts another daughter board (not included in review) facilitating communications with the weather station. Should the station ever need to be replaced I can swap in a new, matching board.\n
\n
There aren’t any high-speed connections on the board. The fastest one is likely the SPI connection to the LCD controller but I can slow it down in firmware if necessary.\n
\n
Regarding the DNP components: There are only 5 motors installed at the moment so I will cover the sixth slot with a piece of plastic for now. `R1` and `R2` will only be populated if the 10k pullup resistors integrated into the MCU are insufficient for typical baud rates.\n
\n
While it is not the first board I’ve designed, it is the first one carrying mains power (European grid 230V@50Hz). I’m using 2 oz copper to accommodate the motor currents within reasonably wide traces.\n
\n
In case anyone is interested, it will be running the ESPHome firmware to easily integrate with the Home-Assistant smart home solution. This also pushes firmware maintenance from me onto the ESPHome devs.\n
\n
3D render from front (no 3D model for relays `K**` and MCU board; 3D model for `J1` and `J2` is a stand-in of same outer dimensions): \n
\n
Orthographic view from front: \n
\n
Schematic:\n
\n
\n
\n
PCB All layers (For reference: thickest traces are 2.5 mm / ~98.4 mils; thinnest traces are 0.25 mm / ~9.84 mils): \n
\n
PCB Front layers excluding Silkscreen: \n
\n
PCB Back layers + Front Fab layer: 
"""
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Show voter details
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| 45 |
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| 46 |
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|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2461
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2456 …}
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "How-to-improve-my-battery-measurement-circuit"
+title: "How to improve my battery measurement circuit?"
+url: null
+body: """
I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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Show voter details
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| 47 |
DENIED
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edit
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
---
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+slug: "How-to-improve-my-battery-measurement-circuit"
+title: "How to improve my battery measurement circuit?"
+url: null
+body: """
I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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date: 2023-08-25 09:05:37.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 48 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2461
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2456 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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---
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+body: """
I am powering a 5V microcontroller (arduino clone, atmega328p) using a 9V block and a buck converter. Now I want to let the microcontroller occasionally measure the battery voltage, so I can get an idea of how full it is.\n
\n
My first idea was to use a simple voltage divider:\n
\n
\n
\n
I’ve chosen the resistor values so that:\n
\n
- the voltage at the measure output is `< 1.1V`, to be able to use the 1.1V internal reference of the atmega’s ADC\n
- `R1 || R2 < 10kΩ`, since the atmega datasheet says “The ADC is optimized for analog signals with an output impedance of approximately 10 kΩ or less”\n
\n
This is great and all, but what bothers me is that this circuit will constantly draw ~100µA from the battery.\n
\n
So, my next thought was to add a mosfet to the divider, to switch it on only while measuring:\n
\n
\n
\n
This is obviously bad, because now when the mosfet is off, the ADC input sees the whole battery voltage.\n
\n
To address that issue, I’ve added a second mosfet into the measure path:\n
\n
\n
\n
This works, and it does not draw any current, except while measuring.\n
\n
However, it’s quite a few parts. So I’m curious if anyone has an idea how to do this with just a single mosfet. It seems to me like it should be possible, but I haven’t figured out how.\n
\n
Oh, and if I’m doing something stupid here, please tell me :)
"""
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date: 2023-08-25 09:05:37.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 49 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 50 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2370
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2377 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
"""
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+slug: "Do-AA-Battery-Holders-Connected-in-Parallel-so-still-1-5V"
+title: "Do AA Battery Holders - Connected in Parallel so still 1.5V - Exist?"
+url: null
+body: """
Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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date: 2023-09-14 06:47:52.0 +02:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 51 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2370
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2377 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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Hello,\n
\n
Either my web search terms are quite inadequate, or perhaps no one ever wants a conveniently pre-wired holder for batteries connected in parallel.\n
\n
Tried at standard (USA) sites like DigiK-- and Mous–. The in-series 2xAA=3V, etc., are even available at general merchandise retailers as shown in this pic from an [A—zon](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-WxRwS8uL.jpg) listing.\n
\n
Would appreciate comment.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 53 |
DENIED
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null |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
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- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
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- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
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- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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Show voter details
|
| 56 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1906
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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So I’m doing some testing of USB-C cables using a tester and a constant load (I’ll have another post soon with some questions on this). But before running each test, I’m checking the E-mark chip and then enumerating the charge capabilities of each to see what they report being capable of.\n
\n
I’ll use 3 different brands of cables as samples of my question. Power Supply (PS) 1 is an Anker 100W with PPS support. PS2 is a MacBook Pro 94W brick with no PPS support.\n
\n
- Cable A \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
- Cable B \n
- Emark: 20V@5A USB3.2 Gen 2\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 100W\n
- Max PD using PS2: Not tested\n
- Cable C \n
- Emark: 50V@5A USB2.0\n
- Max PD using PS1: PD3.0 PPS 29W\n
- Max PD using PS2: PD2.0 94W\n
\n
**So the question: What would be limiting Cables A and C to PPS 29W?**
"""
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\n
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\n
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Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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Disclaimer: this is not *specifically* for a commercial product, but various things I design sometimes get commercialized. I mention this so that you may decide whether you want to weigh in. If it’s commercialized, I will probably make very little money but a bunch of university students may get a neat STEM program in the countryside :D\n
\n
That out of the way, I’ve designed some boards for a Wi-Fi controlled robot with mechanum wheels. So 4 independent motor drivers, one for each wheel, allow omnidirectional motion. It’s built around a Pi Pico W, 4 SOIC-8 9110S motor drivers, and some buck/boost converters to give the system a 5V and 12V line. It’s very basic, mostly made to be cheap. Here’s a photo:\n
\n
\n
\n
Right now it just receives UDP communications (a little app written in Godot) and activates the motors in different combinations – very “hello world”. I’m planning to add some autonomy to move around pre-generated maps, solve mazes, and so on.\n
\n
I have foolishly used 2-pin JST connectors for the motors, so using motors with rotary encoders would be a pain without ordering new boards. I’ll probably fix that in a later board revision or just hack it in. Also the routing is sloppy and there’s no ground plane. It works well enough for development and testing though :D\n
\n
What I’m thinking about right now, is how to let the robot position itself in a room effectively and cheaply. I was thinking of adding either a full LiDAR or building a limited LiDAR out of a servo motor and two cheap laser ToF sensors – e.g. one pointed forward, the other back, and I can sweep it 90 degrees. Since the LiDAR does not need to be fast or continuously sweep, I am leaning toward the latter approach.\n
\n
Then the processing is handled remotely – a server requests that the robot do a LiDAR sweep, the robot sends a minimal point cloud back to the server, which estimates the robot’s current location and sends back some instructions to move in a direction for some distance – probably this is where the lack of rotary encoders is going to hurt, but for now I’m planning on just pointing the forward laser ToF sensor towards a target and give the instruction “turn or move forward at static speed X until the sensor reads Y”, which should be pretty easy for the MCU To handle.\n
\n
I’m planning to control multiple robots from the same server. The robots don’t need to be super fast.\n
\n
What I’m currently wondering is whether my approach really needs rotary encoders in practice – I’ve heard that mechanum wheels have high enough mechanical slippage that they end up inaccurate, and designers often add another set of unpowered wheels for position tracking anyway. I don’t want to add more wheels in this way though.\n
\n
On the other hand, it would probably be easier to tell the MCU to “move forward X rotary encoder pulses at a velocity defined by Y pulses per second, and then check position and correct at a lower speed” than to use a pure LiDAR approach (e.g. even if rotary encoders don’t give me accurate position, on small time scales, they give me good feedback to control speed). I could possibly even send a fairly complex series of instructions in one go, making the communications efficient enough to eliminate a local server and control a ton of robots from a cloud VPS or whatever.\n
\n
Anyone have some experience with encoders + mechanum wheels that can offer a few tips my way? At this stage the project doesn’t have clear engineering goals and this is mostly an academic exercise. I’ve read that using a rigid chassis and minimizing the need for lateral motion can reduce slippage, reading through a few papers didn’t get me any numerical indication of what to expect.
"""
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App\Entity\Entry {#2032
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Rules\n
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
\n
My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
"""
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
\n
My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
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DENIED
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I want to power [this board](https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/RP2040-Touch-LCD-1.28) with a 14v battery. The board has a 1s battery connector that can power the board and read the voltage via ADC. Is there something I could place between the two to lower the voltage and still have a battery voltage reading? I would not be charging the battery through this. The usb port would not be open in the final product.\n
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My understanding is that voltage splitting with resistors is not recommended for powering. And a buck converter will only give constant voltage reading.
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Rules\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
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This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
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I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
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Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
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Rules\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
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Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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I want to use an IC that will take x4 3.0 PCIe lanes, and adds a USB 3.1 controller.\n
\n
This ASMedia one looks ideal, but doesn’t appear to be available to the common folk: [www.asmedia.com.tw/product/…/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA](https://www.asmedia.com.tw/product/E0CYQ4fSpaQxdjzA/f32YQ14SmApn1wNA)\n
\n
There’s also [www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf](https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tusb7340.pdf) - but that costs 22USD with LCSC, as well as being much slower (only using x1 lane)\n
\n
I’m finding it hard to Google as well, because it seems to bring up complete products rather than ICs.\n
\n
Can buy a whole card on eBay with the ASM3242 on it!\n
\n
Can anyone help here please?
"""
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Hi, my cousin has an Xbox Series S, and anytime he would move it the fan would make some pretty freaky noises.\n
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\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Hi, my cousin has an Xbox Series S, and anytime he would move it the fan would make some pretty freaky noises.\n
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I repair computers so I thought I can handle this. I also replaced the thermal paste, and ultimately found the fan to be really loose.\n
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\n
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\n
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| 73 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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\n
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\n
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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| 75 |
DENIED
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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+url: null
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Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 76 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2130
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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+slug: "Attempting-to-repair-controller-Have-I-damaged-it-beyond-repair"
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+url: null
+body: """
Hey all, have I damaged this xbox 360 controller circuit board beyond repair?\n
\n
**The Pictures**\n
\n
[imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4](https://imgur.com/a/oum8Yg4)\n
\n
- The Red circle is the side I managed to fix.\n
- The Blue circle is the parts I could not get to bind properly.\n
\n
**The issues and my process**\n
\n
So I had a pair of xbox 360 controller controllers with corroded battery terminal springs. I managed to successfully replace the first controller’s springs, but the second I was having trouble with. The solder would not bind to the pad and it would form a lump that would break off under any pressure.\n
\n
I consulted the internet and someone mentioned I just needed to crank up the heat. That didn’t work and the binding seemed to get worse, further it looks like it is now burnt all the terminal pad.\n
\n
The internet then told me to scrap away the surface as it might be residual flux and it should be fine underneath. It still fails to securely bind.\n
\n
I suspect the corrosion ate so far into the device that the pad itself was too weak to bind. I also suspect I am an idiot.\n
\n
Is there any saving this?\n
\n
**My Plan should I discover I borked it**\n
\n
360 controllers have additional terminals on the back which I might be able to connect to something instead of the battery pads.
"""
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}
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date: 2023-07-29 07:24:09.0 +02:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 77 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
| 78 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2042
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#2141 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
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+slug: "What-s-the-thinnest-E-ink-screen-that-is-closest-to-3-5-2-5"
+title: "What's the thinnest E-ink screen that is closest to 3.5×2.5 inch?"
+url: null
+body: """
I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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}
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date: 2023-09-02 15:44:50.0 +02:00
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} |
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Show voter details
|
| 79 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2042
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+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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I am curious if one, something like this exists, and two what the cost might be? I am looking for a screen, I assume an e-ink is the best/cheapest option and I want it to be as close as possible to the size of a playing card, ideally not thicker than 2MM. But I think up to 5mm could work.\n
\n
Basically the idea is to use and or eventually create very thin cheap e-reader screens to make programmable playing card games. I have no idea if the screens are even that small, when I go to look for them I get results that are very far from what I am looking for.\n
\n
Anyone know if what I want exists, and if not, if it would even be possible to manufacture for cheap?\n
\n
Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to repurpose something like [this](https://m.alibaba.com/product/1600439857583/Red-White-Black-3-colors-Electronic.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=share&ckvia=share_d71d2a40b5d44e5aae781de3d8d313b1)?\n
\n
The idea is that all the “cards” would be inserted into a carring case that acts as a dock to update the cards. Once you pick your game, all of the cards refresh to whatever game you picked. I would want to make the games open so anyone can design a game for people to play.
"""
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
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Rules\n
-----\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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Rules\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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`[95%] Generate netlist file “/home/original2/Downloads/Gowin_V1.9.8.09_Education_linux/IDE/bin/VGA_out/impl/gwsynthesis/VGA_out.vg” completed`\n
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\n
I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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I am making a graphics card on the tang nano 20k board. I tried synthesising the design in the official IDE and it output:\n
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`[95%] Generate netlist file “/home/original2/Downloads/Gowin_V1.9.8.09_Education_linux/IDE/bin/VGA_out/impl/gwsynthesis/VGA_out.vg” completed`\n
\n
with no further updates for 40 minutes so far. I am on a 16 core system with 24GB of ram (the process is maxing out 1 core right now as well as using 6GB RAM). Why is it not progressing…\n
\n
I do have a 60 by 80 array with 11 bit numbers in it if that is relevant
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| 89 |
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Show voter details
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2045
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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| 93 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2111
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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Show voter details
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| 96 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2111
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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Show voter details
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| 97 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 98 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2113
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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\n
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Serious question from a beginner in electronics. For reasons I do not fully understand, I have become fixated on the idea of collecting small amounts of electricity from “interesting” sources. I don’t mean “free energy”, instead, I mean things like extracting a few mV from being so close to a AM radio tower using two tuned loop antennas in phase with each other, or getting a few mV from the rain’s kinetic energy with PTFE and using two electrodes which are shorted when a drop of rain hits it. In short, I’ve done small experiments to confirm that I can get a few mV and enough to get me excited but not much more. I know I’m not going to get much power out of this, but I’ve been able to charge a NiMH battery a few mV by being a quarter mile from an AM radio station with my antenna setup. It would be fascinating to me if I could store these small charges in something like a 5V USB power brick eventually.\n
\n
The smarter idea would be for me to harvest energy with the sun or from the wind or a stream. I’m tinkering with this as well, but larger amounts of electricity scare me for right now. I guess I’ve seen enough experimental sources of harvesting electricity and I’ve gotten the itch to invent, which is a dangerous itch for a newbie like me to have.\n
\n
The best advice I’ve seen online (ok, it was ChatGPT) is that it’s just not worth it to work with such small amounts of electricity, because the equipment required is too expensive and sophisticated (e.g, devices to read the charge of a capacitor without discharging it) to make anything that’s efficient enough to be worthwhile. Would you agree? Do you know of some other fascinating source of gathering electricity that I should also waste lots of time on?\n
\n
I just have all these electronic components and magnets and when I move them together the numbers on multimeter get bigger. it’s neat.
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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