1 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
2 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1359
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
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+slug: "Community-seems-dead-Can-we-mirror-reddit-posts-here"
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+url: null
+body: """
Arguments to support the idea:\n
\n
- According to browse.feddit.de, this is the largest community for showcasing electronics projects, the last post is almost one month old.\n
- People that signup to [alien.top](https://alien.top) via the [fediverserver portal](https://portal.alien.top) will have this community as the recommended alternative to /r/electronics, but they will pretty much never see it if the community does not have any fresh content and will be more likely to lose interest.\n
- Despite the usual criticism of mirroring bots, the way that the fediverser tool works is showing to actually *help* interaction. In the past two weeks, I’m seeing an above average increase of subscriber and (more importantly) user count on communities like !main@selfhosted.forum, !homelab@selfhosted.forum and !emacs@communick.news
"""
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} |
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Show voter details
|
3 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1359
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1643 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+slug: "Community-seems-dead-Can-we-mirror-reddit-posts-here"
+title: "Community seems dead. Can we mirror reddit posts here?"
+url: null
+body: """
Arguments to support the idea:\n
\n
- According to browse.feddit.de, this is the largest community for showcasing electronics projects, the last post is almost one month old.\n
- People that signup to [alien.top](https://alien.top) via the [fediverserver portal](https://portal.alien.top) will have this community as the recommended alternative to /r/electronics, but they will pretty much never see it if the community does not have any fresh content and will be more likely to lose interest.\n
- Despite the usual criticism of mirroring bots, the way that the fediverser tool works is showing to actually *help* interaction. In the past two weeks, I’m seeing an above average increase of subscriber and (more importantly) user count on communities like !main@selfhosted.forum, !homelab@selfhosted.forum and !emacs@communick.news
"""
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+createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698662914 {#1935
date: 2023-10-30 11:48:34.0 +01:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
4 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1359
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1643 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "electronics"
+description: """
**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
"""
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+url: null
+body: """
Arguments to support the idea:\n
\n
- According to browse.feddit.de, this is the largest community for showcasing electronics projects, the last post is almost one month old.\n
- People that signup to [alien.top](https://alien.top) via the [fediverserver portal](https://portal.alien.top) will have this community as the recommended alternative to /r/electronics, but they will pretty much never see it if the community does not have any fresh content and will be more likely to lose interest.\n
- Despite the usual criticism of mirroring bots, the way that the fediverser tool works is showing to actually *help* interaction. In the past two weeks, I’m seeing an above average increase of subscriber and (more importantly) user count on communities like !main@selfhosted.forum, !homelab@selfhosted.forum and !emacs@communick.news
"""
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date: 2023-10-30 11:48:34.0 +01:00
}
} |
|
Show voter details
|
5 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
6 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1431 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "electronics"
+description: """
**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
"""
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+domain: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Domain {#1430 …}
+slug: "in-your-household-there-is-a-chip-you-can-easily"
+title: "in your household, there is a chip you can easily decap. Can you guess what it is?"
+url: "https://feddit.de/pictrs/image/5ce7cca5-f22b-47b3-b2ac-d0a28e53dbec.jpeg"
+body: """
\n
\n
TranscriptLow-quality photo of a cleanly decapped chip with no resin around it, lying in a recessed rectangle in black plastic or ceramic. It is protected with some clear coat, and there are gold bond wires connecting it with 14 pins embedded in the package material. Two of them on opposing sides are connected and form a bed that the die.A structured square takes up most of the left half of the die and appears significantly darker. The rest is usual chip design with minor rectangular structures. The second photo uses crappy dusty lenses instead of digital zoom. It is slightly less cropped so it is revealed that the entire thing is within a deeper recess, possibly with a tab that keeps a cover on?\n
\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
The pics are purposefully cropped to make the guessing a little harder. The chip continues to work now that I’ve undone this.\n
\n
You may ask follow-up questions. I will post the full story and pics once you guess correctly.\n
\n
Please use the spoiler syntax for your guesses so that people can enjoy guessing with follow-up hints without spoilers! You *really* don’t like doing this, apparently. I thought it would make it more fun for people to take a guess even after someone guesses correctly.\n
\n
I will do the same with any hints and answers I post in the comments so that everyone can choose the difficulty.
"""
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Show voter details
|
7 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
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+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Rules\n
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\n
\n
TranscriptLow-quality photo of a cleanly decapped chip with no resin around it, lying in a recessed rectangle in black plastic or ceramic. It is protected with some clear coat, and there are gold bond wires connecting it with 14 pins embedded in the package material. Two of them on opposing sides are connected and form a bed that the die.A structured square takes up most of the left half of the die and appears significantly darker. The rest is usual chip design with minor rectangular structures. The second photo uses crappy dusty lenses instead of digital zoom. It is slightly less cropped so it is revealed that the entire thing is within a deeper recess, possibly with a tab that keeps a cover on?\n
\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
Please use the spoiler syntax for your guesses so that people can enjoy guessing with follow-up hints without spoilers! You *really* don’t like doing this, apparently. I thought it would make it more fun for people to take a guess even after someone guesses correctly.\n
\n
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
8 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1440
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1431 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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\n
\n
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\n
I don’t have a camera better than my phone, sorry, and the magnifying glasses did not really help.\n
\n
The pics are purposefully cropped to make the guessing a little harder. The chip continues to work now that I’ve undone this.\n
\n
You may ask follow-up questions. I will post the full story and pics once you guess correctly.\n
\n
Please use the spoiler syntax for your guesses so that people can enjoy guessing with follow-up hints without spoilers! You *really* don’t like doing this, apparently. I thought it would make it more fun for people to take a guess even after someone guesses correctly.\n
\n
I will do the same with any hints and answers I post in the comments so that everyone can choose the difficulty.
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
9 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
10 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1614
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1612 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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---
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\n
\n
When buying a replacement for a USB-C connector, are there specific details I should look for such as pin counts, pin arrangements and mounting post dimensions? Or can I just buy any connector that looks similar?\n
\n
This is the connector for an XP-PEN Deco mini7 graphics tablet. It loses connection when moving the cable, and the inner part is slightly loose, even though I’ve barely used the thing
"""
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date: 2023-11-02 11:03:43.0 +01:00
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
11 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1614
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1612 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#400
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
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\n
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I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
- 65W USB PD output (handy for the Pinecil I recently ordered to replace my old iron 😁)\n
- 200x200 IPS display\n
- AC input uses GaN parts\n
\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
"""
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
- 65W USB PD output (handy for the Pinecil I recently ordered to replace my old iron 😁)\n
- 200x200 IPS display\n
- AC input uses GaN parts\n
\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
"""
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+body: """
I’ve been in need of a bench supply for a while, up to this point I’ve been using little buck/boost boards with a multimeter to get the voltage I want when working on a project. The limitations of that started to show though, so I was after a more ideal solution.\n
\n
After spending a while looking at various power supplies, I happened to come across this tiny adjustable supply. After binging a bunch of videos on it, I decided it’ll do, especially compared to the absolutely chonky big alternatives.\n
\n
Right out the gate, the aluminium casing feels amazing, but they could do with a bit of a stronger adhesive holding the glass screen cover in-place 🤦\u{200D}♂️ I’m personally not too bothered by this, but it doesn’t set a good first impression IMO\n
\n
\n
\n
A few seconds after pressing the glass back into place, the opposite end of the glass popped loose. At least I now know there are screws hidden under here if I ever decide to open this in future 💭\n
\n
\n
\n
Aside from that, it has pretty reasonable specs for the size:\n
\n
- Dual input, either AC (mickey ears plug) or DC 7-28v (XT60)\n
- 30V 10A (max output 200W on DC, max 100W on AC)\n
- Minimum output 1v 500mA\n
- 65W USB PD output (handy for the Pinecil I recently ordered to replace my old iron 😁)\n
- 200x200 IPS display\n
- AC input uses GaN parts\n
\n
When watching the videos a few people complained about the absence of an XT60 to banana jack. This may have changed at some point, as one came with mine\n
\n
\n
\n
The internal AC converter appears to supply 19V into the unit, which you can use via the XT60 connector at the rear. Not sure if intentional or not, but pretty neat nonetheless - as long as you dont accidentally leave a lipo plugged in there 😳\n
\n
I’m not sure if its worth the price tag ($60-120 depending on where you look) when you can get a RuiDeng clone for under $30. I mainly jumped for this because of the size, integrated AC input, and that 65W USB-C. Voltage ripple is a little concern at lower voltages where some components may not be so forgiving…\n
\n
Happy with the purchase so far though, can’t wait to start using this for projects!
"""
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I’m currently working on a more complex project that uses double sided assembly (and a weird USB-C connector). To practice these things a little, I ordered some low cost boards to get used to that connector and explore double sided reflow (which seems easier than I expected).\n
\n
For those who are interested, this is a reference design from framework computer for their expansion card system. It can be programmed with circuitpython or Arduino and utilises a SAMD21 microcontroller.
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
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I’m currently working on a more complex project that uses double sided assembly (and a weird USB-C connector). To practice these things a little, I ordered some low cost boards to get used to that connector and explore double sided reflow (which seems easier than I expected).\n
\n
For those who are interested, this is a reference design from framework computer for their expansion card system. It can be programmed with circuitpython or Arduino and utilises a SAMD21 microcontroller.
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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I’m currently working on a more complex project that uses double sided assembly (and a weird USB-C connector). To practice these things a little, I ordered some low cost boards to get used to that connector and explore double sided reflow (which seems easier than I expected).\n
\n
For those who are interested, this is a reference design from framework computer for their expansion card system. It can be programmed with circuitpython or Arduino and utilises a SAMD21 microcontroller.
"""
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+url: null
+body: """
Hi all,\n
\n
In an effort to liven up this community, I’ll post this project I’m working on.\n
\n
I’m building a solar hot water controller for my house. The collector is on the roof of a three-storey building, it is linked to a storage tank on the ground floor. A circulating pump passes water from the tank to the collectors and back again when a temperature sensor on the outlet of the collector registers a warm enough temperature.\n
\n
The current controller does not understand that there is 15 metres of copper piping to pump water through and cycles the circulating pump in short bursts, resulting in the hot water at the collector cooling considerably by the time it reaches the tank (even though the pipes are insulated). The goal of my project is to read the sensor and drive the pump in a way to minimise these heat losses. Basically instead of trying to maintain a consistent collector output temp with slow constant pulsed operation of the pump, I’ll first try pumping the entire volume of moderately hot water from the top half of the collector in one go back to the tank and then waiting until the temperature rises again.\n
\n
I am using an Adafruit PyPortal Titano as the controller, running circuitpython. For I/O I am using a generic ebay PCF8591 board, which provides 4 analog input and a single analog output over an I2C bus. This is inserted into a motherboard that provides pullup resistors for the analog inputs and an optocoupled zero crossing SCR driver + SCR to drive the (thankfully low power) circulating pump. Board design is my own, design is rather critical as mains supply in my country is 240V.\n
\n
The original sensors are simple NTC thermistors, one at the bottom of the tank, and one at the top of the collector. I have also added 4 other Dallas 1-wire sensors to measure temperatures at the top of tank, ambient, tank inlet and collector pump inlet which is 1/3rd of the way up the tank. I have a duplicate of the onewire sensors already on the hot water tank using a different adafruit board and circuitpython. Their readings are currently uploaded to my own IOT server and I can plot the current system’s performance, and I intend to do the same thing with this board.\n
\n
The current performance is fairly dismal, a very small bump of perhaps 0.5 - 1 deg C in the normally 55 degree C tank temperature around 12pm to 1pm, and this is in Australia in hot spring weather of 28-32 degrees C.(There’s some inaccuracy of the tank temperatures, the sensors aren’t really bonded to the tank in any meaningful way, so tank temp is probably a little warmer than this. But I’m looking for relative temperature increases anyway)\n
\n
Right now , the hardware is all together and functional, and is driving a 13W LED downlight as a test, and I can read the onewire temp sensors, read an analog voltage on the PCF8591 board (which will go to the NTC sensors), and I’m pulsing the pump output proportionally from 0-100 percent drive on a 30 second duty cycle, so that a pump drive function can simply say “run the pump at 70 percent” and you’ll get 21 seconds on, 9 seconds off. Duty cycle time is adjustable, so I might lower it a bit to 15 or 10 seconds.\n
\n
The next step is to try it on the circulating pump (which is quite an inductive load, even if it is only 20 watts), and start working on an algorithm that reads the sensors and maximises water temperature back to the tank. There are a few safety features that I’ll put in there, such as a “fault mode” to drive the pump at a fixed rate if there is a sensor failure, and a “night cool” mode if the hot water tank is severely over temperature to circulate hot water to the collector at night to cool it. There are the usual overtemp/overpressure relief valves in the system already.\n
\n
All this is going in a case with a clear hinged cover on the front so I can open it and poke the Titano’s touchscreen to do some things.\n
\n
Right now I am away from home from work, so my replies might be a bit sporadic, but I’ll try to get back to any questions soon-ish.\n
\n
A few photos for your viewing pleasure:\n
\n
The I/O and mainboard plus a 5V power supply mounted up: \n
\n
The front of the panel, showing the Pyportal: \n
\n
Thingsboard display showing readings from the current system: \n
\n
Mainboard PCB design and construction via EasyEDA: \n
\n

"""
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+body: """
Hi all,\n
\n
In an effort to liven up this community, I’ll post this project I’m working on.\n
\n
I’m building a solar hot water controller for my house. The collector is on the roof of a three-storey building, it is linked to a storage tank on the ground floor. A circulating pump passes water from the tank to the collectors and back again when a temperature sensor on the outlet of the collector registers a warm enough temperature.\n
\n
The current controller does not understand that there is 15 metres of copper piping to pump water through and cycles the circulating pump in short bursts, resulting in the hot water at the collector cooling considerably by the time it reaches the tank (even though the pipes are insulated). The goal of my project is to read the sensor and drive the pump in a way to minimise these heat losses. Basically instead of trying to maintain a consistent collector output temp with slow constant pulsed operation of the pump, I’ll first try pumping the entire volume of moderately hot water from the top half of the collector in one go back to the tank and then waiting until the temperature rises again.\n
\n
I am using an Adafruit PyPortal Titano as the controller, running circuitpython. For I/O I am using a generic ebay PCF8591 board, which provides 4 analog input and a single analog output over an I2C bus. This is inserted into a motherboard that provides pullup resistors for the analog inputs and an optocoupled zero crossing SCR driver + SCR to drive the (thankfully low power) circulating pump. Board design is my own, design is rather critical as mains supply in my country is 240V.\n
\n
The original sensors are simple NTC thermistors, one at the bottom of the tank, and one at the top of the collector. I have also added 4 other Dallas 1-wire sensors to measure temperatures at the top of tank, ambient, tank inlet and collector pump inlet which is 1/3rd of the way up the tank. I have a duplicate of the onewire sensors already on the hot water tank using a different adafruit board and circuitpython. Their readings are currently uploaded to my own IOT server and I can plot the current system’s performance, and I intend to do the same thing with this board.\n
\n
The current performance is fairly dismal, a very small bump of perhaps 0.5 - 1 deg C in the normally 55 degree C tank temperature around 12pm to 1pm, and this is in Australia in hot spring weather of 28-32 degrees C.(There’s some inaccuracy of the tank temperatures, the sensors aren’t really bonded to the tank in any meaningful way, so tank temp is probably a little warmer than this. But I’m looking for relative temperature increases anyway)\n
\n
Right now , the hardware is all together and functional, and is driving a 13W LED downlight as a test, and I can read the onewire temp sensors, read an analog voltage on the PCF8591 board (which will go to the NTC sensors), and I’m pulsing the pump output proportionally from 0-100 percent drive on a 30 second duty cycle, so that a pump drive function can simply say “run the pump at 70 percent” and you’ll get 21 seconds on, 9 seconds off. Duty cycle time is adjustable, so I might lower it a bit to 15 or 10 seconds.\n
\n
The next step is to try it on the circulating pump (which is quite an inductive load, even if it is only 20 watts), and start working on an algorithm that reads the sensors and maximises water temperature back to the tank. There are a few safety features that I’ll put in there, such as a “fault mode” to drive the pump at a fixed rate if there is a sensor failure, and a “night cool” mode if the hot water tank is severely over temperature to circulate hot water to the collector at night to cool it. There are the usual overtemp/overpressure relief valves in the system already.\n
\n
All this is going in a case with a clear hinged cover on the front so I can open it and poke the Titano’s touchscreen to do some things.\n
\n
Right now I am away from home from work, so my replies might be a bit sporadic, but I’ll try to get back to any questions soon-ish.\n
\n
A few photos for your viewing pleasure:\n
\n
The I/O and mainboard plus a 5V power supply mounted up: \n
\n
The front of the panel, showing the Pyportal: \n
\n
Thingsboard display showing readings from the current system: \n
\n
Mainboard PCB design and construction via EasyEDA: \n
\n

"""
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} |
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Show voter details
|
32 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1557
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+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#302 …}
+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "electronics"
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
"""
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+slug: "My-customisable-solar-hot-water-system-controller-project-in-progress"
+title: "My customisable solar hot water system controller (project in progress)"
+url: null
+body: """
Hi all,\n
\n
In an effort to liven up this community, I’ll post this project I’m working on.\n
\n
I’m building a solar hot water controller for my house. The collector is on the roof of a three-storey building, it is linked to a storage tank on the ground floor. A circulating pump passes water from the tank to the collectors and back again when a temperature sensor on the outlet of the collector registers a warm enough temperature.\n
\n
The current controller does not understand that there is 15 metres of copper piping to pump water through and cycles the circulating pump in short bursts, resulting in the hot water at the collector cooling considerably by the time it reaches the tank (even though the pipes are insulated). The goal of my project is to read the sensor and drive the pump in a way to minimise these heat losses. Basically instead of trying to maintain a consistent collector output temp with slow constant pulsed operation of the pump, I’ll first try pumping the entire volume of moderately hot water from the top half of the collector in one go back to the tank and then waiting until the temperature rises again.\n
\n
I am using an Adafruit PyPortal Titano as the controller, running circuitpython. For I/O I am using a generic ebay PCF8591 board, which provides 4 analog input and a single analog output over an I2C bus. This is inserted into a motherboard that provides pullup resistors for the analog inputs and an optocoupled zero crossing SCR driver + SCR to drive the (thankfully low power) circulating pump. Board design is my own, design is rather critical as mains supply in my country is 240V.\n
\n
The original sensors are simple NTC thermistors, one at the bottom of the tank, and one at the top of the collector. I have also added 4 other Dallas 1-wire sensors to measure temperatures at the top of tank, ambient, tank inlet and collector pump inlet which is 1/3rd of the way up the tank. I have a duplicate of the onewire sensors already on the hot water tank using a different adafruit board and circuitpython. Their readings are currently uploaded to my own IOT server and I can plot the current system’s performance, and I intend to do the same thing with this board.\n
\n
The current performance is fairly dismal, a very small bump of perhaps 0.5 - 1 deg C in the normally 55 degree C tank temperature around 12pm to 1pm, and this is in Australia in hot spring weather of 28-32 degrees C.(There’s some inaccuracy of the tank temperatures, the sensors aren’t really bonded to the tank in any meaningful way, so tank temp is probably a little warmer than this. But I’m looking for relative temperature increases anyway)\n
\n
Right now , the hardware is all together and functional, and is driving a 13W LED downlight as a test, and I can read the onewire temp sensors, read an analog voltage on the PCF8591 board (which will go to the NTC sensors), and I’m pulsing the pump output proportionally from 0-100 percent drive on a 30 second duty cycle, so that a pump drive function can simply say “run the pump at 70 percent” and you’ll get 21 seconds on, 9 seconds off. Duty cycle time is adjustable, so I might lower it a bit to 15 or 10 seconds.\n
\n
The next step is to try it on the circulating pump (which is quite an inductive load, even if it is only 20 watts), and start working on an algorithm that reads the sensors and maximises water temperature back to the tank. There are a few safety features that I’ll put in there, such as a “fault mode” to drive the pump at a fixed rate if there is a sensor failure, and a “night cool” mode if the hot water tank is severely over temperature to circulate hot water to the collector at night to cool it. There are the usual overtemp/overpressure relief valves in the system already.\n
\n
All this is going in a case with a clear hinged cover on the front so I can open it and poke the Titano’s touchscreen to do some things.\n
\n
Right now I am away from home from work, so my replies might be a bit sporadic, but I’ll try to get back to any questions soon-ish.\n
\n
A few photos for your viewing pleasure:\n
\n
The I/O and mainboard plus a 5V power supply mounted up: \n
\n
The front of the panel, showing the Pyportal: \n
\n
Thingsboard display showing readings from the current system: \n
\n
Mainboard PCB design and construction via EasyEDA: \n
\n

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39 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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40 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Show voter details
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41 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
|
42 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1724
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Show voter details
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43 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1724
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Show voter details
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44 |
DENIED
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48 |
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App\Entity\Entry {#2411
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49 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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50 |
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App\Entity\Entry {#2469
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Over the past few years I’ve accumulated way too much random electronics parts and pieces from projects and random Aliexpress shopping sprees. I figured I’d split it out into various “packs”, but I can move things around as desired (or combine things). It’s all free + shipping, I can ship however you want but default is the cheapest possible option, usually USPS in the US.\n
\n
The following are not exhaustive, since I found some more stuff after I took the photos and threw it in to the appropriate box, but it should roughly fit the category and I don’t think there’s anything too significant. Write a comment if you want something and we can arrange shipping!\n
\n
[WIRES](https://imgur.com/a/HRe4kWU)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random wire scraps, useful for breadboards or other stuff.\n
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- Spool of RGBW LED Strip cable (5 conductors)\n
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- Random connector attached to silicone cable\n
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\n
[AUDIO](https://imgur.com/a/3xLMdEc)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random things with 3.5mm jacks on the end of them\n
\n
[CONNECTORS](https://imgur.com/a/Q6qTbeC)\n
=========================================\n
\n
- Random connectors that I’ve built up. All are visible in the pic.\n
\n
[SMART ELECTRONICS]\n
=====================\n
\n
- Various Arduino/ESP boards\n
- LCD Displays\n
- 2 Proton devboards\n
- Various RF and NFC stuff\n
- Bag full of MOSFETs and Transistors\n
- Adjustable buck and boost converters\n
- Raspberry Pi Camera\n
- Bunch of other random stuff, see pic\n
\n
[AC-DC Power Supplies](https://imgur.com/a/Po5fUVQ)\n
===================================================\n
\n
- Various power supplies, outputting either 12 or 5V.\n
- One 5v USB plug\n
\n
[Components](https://imgur.com/a/pjzVxTB)\n
=========================================\n
\n
- Random components, including some SMD stuff and capacitors
"""
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Show voter details
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51 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2469
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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Over the past few years I’ve accumulated way too much random electronics parts and pieces from projects and random Aliexpress shopping sprees. I figured I’d split it out into various “packs”, but I can move things around as desired (or combine things). It’s all free + shipping, I can ship however you want but default is the cheapest possible option, usually USPS in the US.\n
\n
The following are not exhaustive, since I found some more stuff after I took the photos and threw it in to the appropriate box, but it should roughly fit the category and I don’t think there’s anything too significant. Write a comment if you want something and we can arrange shipping!\n
\n
[WIRES](https://imgur.com/a/HRe4kWU)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random wire scraps, useful for breadboards or other stuff.\n
- Two breadboard wire packs\n
- Spool of RGBW LED Strip cable (5 conductors)\n
- RGB (4 conductors) cable with some 1mm pin connectors soldered\n
- Random connector attached to silicone cable\n
- Couple spools of solid bare wire\n
\n
[AUDIO](https://imgur.com/a/3xLMdEc)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random things with 3.5mm jacks on the end of them\n
\n
[CONNECTORS](https://imgur.com/a/Q6qTbeC)\n
=========================================\n
\n
- Random connectors that I’ve built up. All are visible in the pic.\n
\n
[SMART ELECTRONICS]\n
=====================\n
\n
- Various Arduino/ESP boards\n
- LCD Displays\n
- 2 Proton devboards\n
- Various RF and NFC stuff\n
- Bag full of MOSFETs and Transistors\n
- Adjustable buck and boost converters\n
- Raspberry Pi Camera\n
- Bunch of other random stuff, see pic\n
\n
[AC-DC Power Supplies](https://imgur.com/a/Po5fUVQ)\n
===================================================\n
\n
- Various power supplies, outputting either 12 or 5V.\n
- One 5v USB plug\n
\n
[Components](https://imgur.com/a/pjzVxTB)\n
=========================================\n
\n
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+url: null
+body: """
Over the past few years I’ve accumulated way too much random electronics parts and pieces from projects and random Aliexpress shopping sprees. I figured I’d split it out into various “packs”, but I can move things around as desired (or combine things). It’s all free + shipping, I can ship however you want but default is the cheapest possible option, usually USPS in the US.\n
\n
The following are not exhaustive, since I found some more stuff after I took the photos and threw it in to the appropriate box, but it should roughly fit the category and I don’t think there’s anything too significant. Write a comment if you want something and we can arrange shipping!\n
\n
[WIRES](https://imgur.com/a/HRe4kWU)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random wire scraps, useful for breadboards or other stuff.\n
- Two breadboard wire packs\n
- Spool of RGBW LED Strip cable (5 conductors)\n
- RGB (4 conductors) cable with some 1mm pin connectors soldered\n
- Random connector attached to silicone cable\n
- Couple spools of solid bare wire\n
\n
[AUDIO](https://imgur.com/a/3xLMdEc)\n
====================================\n
\n
- Mostly just random things with 3.5mm jacks on the end of them\n
\n
[CONNECTORS](https://imgur.com/a/Q6qTbeC)\n
=========================================\n
\n
- Random connectors that I’ve built up. All are visible in the pic.\n
\n
[SMART ELECTRONICS]\n
=====================\n
\n
- Various Arduino/ESP boards\n
- LCD Displays\n
- 2 Proton devboards\n
- Various RF and NFC stuff\n
- Bag full of MOSFETs and Transistors\n
- Adjustable buck and boost converters\n
- Raspberry Pi Camera\n
- Bunch of other random stuff, see pic\n
\n
[AC-DC Power Supplies](https://imgur.com/a/Po5fUVQ)\n
===================================================\n
\n
- Various power supplies, outputting either 12 or 5V.\n
- One 5v USB plug\n
\n
[Components](https://imgur.com/a/pjzVxTB)\n
=========================================\n
\n
- Random components, including some SMD stuff and capacitors
"""
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Show voter details
|
53 |
DENIED
|
ROLE_USER
|
null |
|
Show voter details
|
54 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2384
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
---
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+slug: "Got-my-electric-cooler-box-working-again"
+title: "Got my electric cooler box working again 😁"
+url: "https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/WZnJo5ol_o.jpg"
+body: """
This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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\n
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\n
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This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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+url: "https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/WZnJo5ol_o.jpg"
+body: """
This decade old electric cooler box gave up the ghost around 2 years ago, with the indoor outlet plug no longer working. The independent 12v input was still operational, so I kept it with the intention of *eventually* fixing it…\n
\n
And two years later, this is the eventually 😅. The integrated 10v ~45w unit had failed short on the primary side, with a burnt out Y-capacitor and some fried zeners. I started removing bits from the board to try and find all the broken components… but ended up letting out the magic smoke in the process, oops!\n
\n
I set out looking for a new power supply, and came across a 12v 45w unit from Meanwell. It was actually smaller than the cooler’s original power supply too, meaning more internal space to use later 🤫\n
\n
Spoiler\n
\n
After searching for a distributor that was actually willing to ship it to a home address, I ordered, and boom:\n
\n
\n
\n
It’s so tiny compared to the original.\n
\n
Next I installed an Arduino Nano to control the TEC/peltier module & fan via a cheap LED repeater. I was hoping to reuse the internal temperature sensors, but left them disconnected for now\n
\n
\n
\n
After hours writing the arduino code, I finally got it into a usable state. There were issues with brownouts rebooting the Arduino, however with the Meanwell supply in-circuit those mysteriously stopped.\n
\n
There are 3 power modes now for the module: 30W, 40W and 50W - with the first two using PWM, and the last one giving it all the beans. I wanted to PWM control the fan too, but decided against it since it sounded absolutely terrible at whatever PWM frequency the Nano is using.\n
\n
It powers on to 40W by default, which is under the 45W max rating of the PSU.\n
\n
Everything looks good so far running from the bench supply:\n
\n
\n
\n
Now all that was left was to connect the internal supply, and the 12v vehicle input. I was actually supposed to use JST connectors for the Meanwell psu, but didn’t have anything on hand - so improvised with crimping spade terminals and friction fitting those on\n
\n
\n
\n
And the moment of truth. Up until this point I hadn’t actually checked if the replacement psu was working or not\n
\n
\n
\n
Looking good! I don’t really like the LEDs though, so might do something about those in future.\n
\n
You might be wondering how exactly I change the power settings… well since the manufacturer decided it was good enough to shove all the cables in the back, I did the same with a pushbutton 🤫\n
\n
\n
\n
Glad to have the electric cooler working again though, feels nice to save large things like this from going to the landfill and extend their life a bit. Excited to hear any thoughts and feedback!
"""
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57 |
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59 |
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60 |
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App\Entity\Entry {#2391
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Show voter details
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61 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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62 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1404
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
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I have this generator, [joy-it.net/en/products/JT-JDS2915](https://joy-it.net/en/products/JT-JDS2915)but it doesn’t say in the manual what maximum current this thing can provide.\n
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Show voter details
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63 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1404
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+name: "electronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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75 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
|
76 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2093
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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Show voter details
|
77 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
78 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2351
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Rules\n
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I got a Sylvania-branded strand of 50 “warm-white” LEDs (plus two loose spares) for USD 2.50 at the local grocery store, which I’m pretty sure is cheaper than buying a bag of the bare LEDs would run. They also come in other colours (blue, cool-white, bright red, multicolour)\n
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Show voter details
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79 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2351
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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---\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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---
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I got a Sylvania-branded strand of 50 “warm-white” LEDs (plus two loose spares) for USD 2.50 at the local grocery store, which I’m pretty sure is cheaper than buying a bag of the bare LEDs would run. They also come in other colours (blue, cool-white, bright red, multicolour)\n
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Show voter details
|
80 |
DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2351
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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I got a Sylvania-branded strand of 50 “warm-white” LEDs (plus two loose spares) for USD 2.50 at the local grocery store, which I’m pretty sure is cheaper than buying a bag of the bare LEDs would run. They also come in other colours (blue, cool-white, bright red, multicolour)\n
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The individual LEDs come in plastic shells which can be cracked open to retrieve the goodies inside, and have plenty long leads that are folded over to fit the “bulb” mounting.
"""
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Show voter details
|
81 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
|
82 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2327
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
\n
---
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Rules\n
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As solder bump pitches shrink, several issues arise. Reduced bump height and surface area for bonding make it increasingly difficult to establish reliable electrical connections, necessitating precise manufacturing processes to avoid errors. Critical co-planarity and surface roughness become paramount, as even minor irregularities can compromise successful bonding.\n
\n
To overcome these issues, Cu-Cu hybrid bonding technology steps in as a game-changer. This innovative technique involves embedding metal contacts between dielectric materials and using heat treatment for solid-state diffusion of copper atoms, thereby eliminating the bridging problem associated with soldering.\n
\n
The advantages of hybrid bonding over flip-chip soldering are obvious. Firstly, it enables ultra-fine pitch and small contact sizes, facilitating high I/O counts. This is critical in modern semiconductor packaging, where devices require a growing number of connections to meet performance demands. Secondly, unlike flip-chip soldering, which often relies on underfill materials, Cu-Cu hybrid bonding eliminates the need for underfill, reducing parasitic capacitance, resistance and inductance, as well as thermal resistance. Lastly, the reduced thickness of the bonded connections in Cu-Cu hybrid bonding, nearly eliminating the 10 to 30 micron thickness of solder balls in flip-chip technology, opens up new possibilities for more compact and efficient semiconductor packages.
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As solder bump pitches shrink, several issues arise. Reduced bump height and surface area for bonding make it increasingly difficult to establish reliable electrical connections, necessitating precise manufacturing processes to avoid errors. Critical co-planarity and surface roughness become paramount, as even minor irregularities can compromise successful bonding.\n
\n
To overcome these issues, Cu-Cu hybrid bonding technology steps in as a game-changer. This innovative technique involves embedding metal contacts between dielectric materials and using heat treatment for solid-state diffusion of copper atoms, thereby eliminating the bridging problem associated with soldering.\n
\n
The advantages of hybrid bonding over flip-chip soldering are obvious. Firstly, it enables ultra-fine pitch and small contact sizes, facilitating high I/O counts. This is critical in modern semiconductor packaging, where devices require a growing number of connections to meet performance demands. Secondly, unlike flip-chip soldering, which often relies on underfill materials, Cu-Cu hybrid bonding eliminates the need for underfill, reducing parasitic capacitance, resistance and inductance, as well as thermal resistance. Lastly, the reduced thickness of the bonded connections in Cu-Cu hybrid bonding, nearly eliminating the 10 to 30 micron thickness of solder balls in flip-chip technology, opens up new possibilities for more compact and efficient semiconductor packages.
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500)\n
\n
> Many volume applications use FPGA because they need in-field reconfigurability (changing standards, changing algorithms, etc) but they want to improve their system’s competitiveness (power, size, cost). FPGAs are bulky, expensive and power hungry. Integrating eFPGA can greatly improve the economics while maintaining full reconfigurability and performance.\n
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500)\n
\n
> Many volume applications use FPGA because they need in-field reconfigurability (changing standards, changing algorithms, etc) but they want to improve their system’s competitiveness (power, size, cost). FPGAs are bulky, expensive and power hungry. Integrating eFPGA can greatly improve the economics while maintaining full reconfigurability and performance.\n
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> \n
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cross-posted from: [discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500](https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/3011500)\n
\n
> Many volume applications use FPGA because they need in-field reconfigurability (changing standards, changing algorithms, etc) but they want to improve their system’s competitiveness (power, size, cost). FPGAs are bulky, expensive and power hungry. Integrating eFPGA can greatly improve the economics while maintaining full reconfigurability and performance.\n
> \n
> We’ve found with customers that a significant portion of the LUTs in their designs don’t change with reconfigurations: they are fixed buses to bring data to and from the reconfigurable core. This can be hardwired so the number of LUTs needed in the SoC is typically half of what’s in the FPGA. There is also a lot of cost of voltage regulators for an FPGA that disappear with integration.\n
> \n
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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97 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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98 |
DENIED
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moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#2121
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
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Rules\n
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\n
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+body: """
Topics covered in this informative video: potentiometer, electrical engineering, basic electronics, what is a resistor, resistors in series, variable resistor, power electronics, current limiting, Carbon film, carbon composite, Metal film, Potentiometer, Thermistor, RTD, LDR, Light dependant resistor, SMD, rheostat and much much more.\n
\n
- [www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0)\n
- [piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0](https://piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0)\n
\n
The video often (not always) describes resistors as coiled wires. Don’t they induce magnetic fields and currents in other components? This article answered these questions for me: [eepower.com/…/resistor-inductance/#](https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-fundamentals/resistor-inductance/#)\n
\n
TL;DR: Yes, but the effect is often negligible or the application does not care. When it matters, we can minimize the effect with appropriate designs (i.e. without coiled resistors).
"""
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- [www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0)\n
- [piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0](https://piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0)\n
\n
The video often (not always) describes resistors as coiled wires. Don’t they induce magnetic fields and currents in other components? This article answered these questions for me: [eepower.com/…/resistor-inductance/#](https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-fundamentals/resistor-inductance/#)\n
\n
TL;DR: Yes, but the effect is often negligible or the application does not care. When it matters, we can minimize the effect with appropriate designs (i.e. without coiled resistors).
"""
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
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*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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- [piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0](https://piped.video/watch?v=DYcLFHgVCn0)\n
\n
The video often (not always) describes resistors as coiled wires. Don’t they induce magnetic fields and currents in other components? This article answered these questions for me: [eepower.com/…/resistor-inductance/#](https://eepower.com/resistor-guide/resistor-fundamentals/resistor-inductance/#)\n
\n
TL;DR: Yes, but the effect is often negligible or the application does not care. When it matters, we can minimize the effect with appropriate designs (i.e. without coiled resistors).
"""
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Show voter details
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101 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Magazine {#400
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**Projects, pictures, industry discussions and news about electronic engineering & component-level electronic circuits.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: No circuit design or repair, tools or component questions.\n
\n
5: No excessively promoting your own sites, social media, videos etc.\n
\n
---\n
\n
*Ask questions in [discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics](https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics)*\n
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