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edit
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\Entry {#1779
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| 5 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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App\Entity\Entry {#1695
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Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 7 |
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Rules\n
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| 8 |
DENIED
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| 9 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 10 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1647
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Rules\n
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Hi everyone! Recently I have gotten interested in communication protocols and have been looking for one (with little success, hence my question) which would satisfy the following requirements (in prioritized order):\n
\n
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\n
• Devices should be able to address messages directly to one another without a single one permanently taking on some host/master/relay role\n
\n
• Devices should be hot-pluggable (A new device may be connected to the network or removed from it without problems even when the network is up and running)\n
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• The protocol should be stable and immune enough to noise so that it can be sent through wires up to at least 5 meters, ideally even up to 10-50 meters.\n
\n
• It should be simple, implementable even on low-perfomance microcontrollers.\n
\n
• It should have its maximum transfer rate in the kilobytes per second range or preferably even megabytes per second.\n
\n
I have looked at I2C, which for the most part would be fine, but as far as I understand it was not meant to be sent through a wire and it would be quite vulnerable to interference. (It also is by default a master-slave protocol, but it also has a multi-master mode, so maybe making every device a slave and a multi-master master at the same time could work?)\n
\n
The rest of the protocols I looked at were all master-slave, which, for my purpose, is unacceptable.\n
\n
That being said, I would be grateful if you could give me some pointers as to what protocol may satisfy these requirements and perhaps even on what sort of wires and signals it would require (twisted pairs? Differential signal? Shielded twisted pairs? Could plain simple wire suffice? etc.)
"""
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Show voter details
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| 11 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1647
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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Hi everyone! Recently I have gotten interested in communication protocols and have been looking for one (with little success, hence my question) which would satisfy the following requirements (in prioritized order):\n
\n
• All devices should be able to initiate communication (not your typical master slave with polling)\n
\n
• Devices should be able to address messages directly to one another without a single one permanently taking on some host/master/relay role\n
\n
• Devices should be hot-pluggable (A new device may be connected to the network or removed from it without problems even when the network is up and running)\n
\n
• The protocol should be stable and immune enough to noise so that it can be sent through wires up to at least 5 meters, ideally even up to 10-50 meters.\n
\n
• It should be simple, implementable even on low-perfomance microcontrollers.\n
\n
• It should have its maximum transfer rate in the kilobytes per second range or preferably even megabytes per second.\n
\n
I have looked at I2C, which for the most part would be fine, but as far as I understand it was not meant to be sent through a wire and it would be quite vulnerable to interference. (It also is by default a master-slave protocol, but it also has a multi-master mode, so maybe making every device a slave and a multi-master master at the same time could work?)\n
\n
The rest of the protocols I looked at were all master-slave, which, for my purpose, is unacceptable.\n
\n
That being said, I would be grateful if you could give me some pointers as to what protocol may satisfy these requirements and perhaps even on what sort of wires and signals it would require (twisted pairs? Differential signal? Shielded twisted pairs? Could plain simple wire suffice? etc.)
"""
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} |
|
Show voter details
|
| 12 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1647
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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Hi everyone! Recently I have gotten interested in communication protocols and have been looking for one (with little success, hence my question) which would satisfy the following requirements (in prioritized order):\n
\n
• All devices should be able to initiate communication (not your typical master slave with polling)\n
\n
• Devices should be able to address messages directly to one another without a single one permanently taking on some host/master/relay role\n
\n
• Devices should be hot-pluggable (A new device may be connected to the network or removed from it without problems even when the network is up and running)\n
\n
• The protocol should be stable and immune enough to noise so that it can be sent through wires up to at least 5 meters, ideally even up to 10-50 meters.\n
\n
• It should be simple, implementable even on low-perfomance microcontrollers.\n
\n
• It should have its maximum transfer rate in the kilobytes per second range or preferably even megabytes per second.\n
\n
I have looked at I2C, which for the most part would be fine, but as far as I understand it was not meant to be sent through a wire and it would be quite vulnerable to interference. (It also is by default a master-slave protocol, but it also has a multi-master mode, so maybe making every device a slave and a multi-master master at the same time could work?)\n
\n
The rest of the protocols I looked at were all master-slave, which, for my purpose, is unacceptable.\n
\n
That being said, I would be grateful if you could give me some pointers as to what protocol may satisfy these requirements and perhaps even on what sort of wires and signals it would require (twisted pairs? Differential signal? Shielded twisted pairs? Could plain simple wire suffice? etc.)
"""
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Show voter details
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\n
Rules\n
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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
\n
What is it and how do I determine the correct replacement?
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Rules\n
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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
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What is it and how do I determine the correct replacement?
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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I purchased an e-bike which was advertised as just needing the batteries replaced. The li-ion batteries had been sitting dead for months. Once I got the battery removed it was clear that was not the case. You can see the hole where the plastic melted from this component overheating on the board. The burnt one is the same as those in the center of this photo.\n
\n
What is it and how do I determine the correct replacement?
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Show voter details
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| 17 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
|
moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1592
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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I replaced my laptop’s battery after it was swollen. I found out that services like call2recycle do not take swollen batteries since they are potentially hazardous material. How can I get rid of that damned spicy pillow? In Dallas. Thanks.\n
\n
Thanks for the suggestion and tips guys. I have bought lipo fire resistant bags for the batteries. As stated in suggestions here, most of the places like Home Depot, Best Buy, Lowes do have a recycling program; but some of them have disclaimers regarding not accepting swollen batteries. I plan to go to Batteries and Bulbs, Best Buy asap; they look most promising.
"""
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| 19 |
DENIED
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edit
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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I replaced my laptop’s battery after it was swollen. I found out that services like call2recycle do not take swollen batteries since they are potentially hazardous material. How can I get rid of that damned spicy pillow? In Dallas. Thanks.\n
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\n
Rules\n
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Hello, I have a circuit that will need to return connected hardware to a default state if power is lost. The hardware can handle continuous voltage, so I’m thinking a simple solution would be to use a battery to provide that fallback power source. To avoid draining the battery, I’d like to connect it through a relay on the normally open contact and energize the relay directly from the main power supply on my board.\n
\n
Do I need to look for anything in particular to make sure the coil on the relay I choose can sustain constant voltage for potentially months at a time without damage? Or, is there another similarly low cost and simple solution you’d recommend?\n
\n
The circuit runs on 12VDC from a [Mean Well IRM-10-12 ([specification](https://www.meanwellusa.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=IRM-10)), and the relays I have on hand are OMRON G5LE-14-CF 12VDC ([specification](https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-g5le.pdf)). I don’t see anything on the relay documentation that specifies a maximum duty cycle.
"""
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| 25 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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Hey everyone,\n
\n
I’m a complete beginner in the world of soldering, and I’m facing some frustrating issues with my soldering iron tips. After just a few minutes of use, my soldering iron tips can’t melt the solder anymore.\n
\n
I always keep a sponge nearby and make sure to clean the tip frequently, just like I saw in tutorials. However, the tips still look a little “burned”/ black. Am I doing something wrong? Or could it be related to the soldering equipment I’m using? I bought a $20 kit on Amazon just to practice.
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Show voter details
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| 27 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1550
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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Hey everyone,\n
\n
I’m a complete beginner in the world of soldering, and I’m facing some frustrating issues with my soldering iron tips. After just a few minutes of use, my soldering iron tips can’t melt the solder anymore.\n
\n
I always keep a sponge nearby and make sure to clean the tip frequently, just like I saw in tutorials. However, the tips still look a little “burned”/ black. Am I doing something wrong? Or could it be related to the soldering equipment I’m using? I bought a $20 kit on Amazon just to practice.
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Show voter details
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| 28 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1550
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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Hey everyone,\n
\n
I’m a complete beginner in the world of soldering, and I’m facing some frustrating issues with my soldering iron tips. After just a few minutes of use, my soldering iron tips can’t melt the solder anymore.\n
\n
I always keep a sponge nearby and make sure to clean the tip frequently, just like I saw in tutorials. However, the tips still look a little “burned”/ black. Am I doing something wrong? Or could it be related to the soldering equipment I’m using? I bought a $20 kit on Amazon just to practice.
"""
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Show voter details
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| 29 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
|
| 30 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1604
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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DENIED
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DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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| 37 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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moderate
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Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
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When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
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| 39 |
DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#1726
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Rules\n
-----\n
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Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
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When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
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Show voter details
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| 40 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1726
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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Pretty basic question but I am struggling to find the words to get the correct search result. The soldering iron I bought came with very narrow tips that I think are supposed to be used for circuit boards and components.\n
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When I attempt to solder lines from a USB cord together the line never gets warm enough.\n
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Show voter details
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| 41 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 42 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#1720
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
But will probably needadditional things to be integrated and I created an account at Qualcomm but they won’t give anything unless I’m certified from a company to be a customer and actually integrate it…
"""
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|
Show voter details
|
| 43 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1720
+user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1716 …}
+magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
But will probably needadditional things to be integrated and I created an account at Qualcomm but they won’t give anything unless I’m certified from a company to be a customer and actually integrate it…
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I’m curious and am playing around with a new EDA tool and am looking at practicing by designing a PCB which should be roughly 28x26mm footprint (give or take a few mm…).\n
\n
It should be an LTE cat 4 device, connected by USB type C for the framework laptop and is unlikely to include antennas.\n
\n
Where I struggle is identifying potential modems to use. The only one even remotely close is the u-blox LARA-L6, which is 24x26mm. What alternatives are there?\n
\n
I am trying to see what gets sold in these USB dongles but there is little info. The few I have identified seem to make use of the Qualcomm 9207, but its’s unclear to me if its a ready chip (which is what the MDM9207 is?) Or if it is an IP core to integrate in one’s own chip?\n
\n
A video I came across seem to indicate it (the MDM version) is tiny:\n
\n
[www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToCyUCIoXEM) at 2:13\n
\n
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\n
Any suggestions?
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| 49 |
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2377
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
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| 51 |
DENIED
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edit
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Rules\n
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
"""
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Show voter details
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| 52 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2377
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\n
Rules\n
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Hello! Someone suggested this "If the MOSFET is put into diode connection mode (connect the gate to the drain), you can force a small current (I recommend 1 uA–10 uA; 1 mA would probably be OK; 100 mA would result in significant power dissipation and could influence the results) and record Vds (which is equal to Vgs in this configuration).” There are just some questions i had in mind. *Is it possible to connect the gate and drain on a breadboard to put the MOSFET into diode connection mode? *How to force a small current in the drain. Is voltage divider will be enough? *Is it still possible to apply voltage source after putting it into a diode connection? Also, what is the expected measurement at the Vds terminal. If there will be no voltage source, will it be in the range of 0.1 to 1 V increase? *Why should the MOSFET be connected into a diode?\n
\n
*Can a MOSFET handle low dosage for example, Cs-137 (666 keV)
"""
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Show voter details
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| 53 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 54 |
DENIED
|
moderate
|
App\Entity\Entry {#1909
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
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\n
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Is there a reason why the banner and logo of this community are just the reddit logo?\n
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To be honest that doesn’t seem very appropriate, nor is it very pretty.
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| 55 |
DENIED
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DENIED
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| 57 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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null |
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Show voter details
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| 58 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2393
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Show voter details
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| 59 |
DENIED
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edit
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\n
Rules\n
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Show voter details
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| 60 |
DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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Rules\n
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
\n
Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
\n
Please help!
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\n
Rules\n
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
\n
Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
\n
Please help!
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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I’m trying to replace the jet engine fan inside the PSU of a [Nu 1.1](https://segaretro.org/Nu_1.1) with a Noctua equivalent and am having trouble identifying the connector. The PSU is a Delta Electronics Model EDPS-250AB A, Part Number 400-5494-91.\n
\n
I have taken several pictures of the fan connector and its header in the hopes of identifying the connection. I originally thought it was a JST-EH 2.0, but it is not, and the only means of comparison that I currently have.\n
\n
Photos here: [imgur.com/a/JQVahV3](https://imgur.com/a/JQVahV3)\n
\n
Please help!
"""
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| 65 |
DENIED
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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Hi! I'm working on an arduino project that has a -12v/0v/+12 psu. +12 is fed directly into arduinos voltage regulator, so there's also a +5v line available. I need to convert a -5v+5v signal to 0v+5v to feed it into arduinos analogue input and I've already mocked up a schematic in circuitjs based on an opamp that seems to do what I want. The only problem is that it needs -5v to shift the signal to be unipolar. I know that I can invert +5v using another opamp, but maybe there's some simpler way? I'd really like to avoid adding another opamp just for this? In this schematic I used simple voltage divider to get the needed voltage, but I guess that's not the best approach?\n
\n
TLDR: I have -12v, 0v, +12v and +5v, what's the easiest way to get -5v?
"""
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Rules\n
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moderate
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Show voter details
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Rules\n
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\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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DENIED
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Rules\n
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Hi!\n
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I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Show voter details
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| 76 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2092
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Hi!\n
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I have bought a Geberit shower toilet/bidet with a motion sensor but it’s aimed at the front while the toilet is installed sideways. So I’ve opened the thing up and I can take out the motion sensor, but the cable it’s connected to is too short to do anything with. So I’m looking to buy/make an extension cable, but I have no idea on how to find it. So I took pics of the connector and I’m hoping you can help me find the type of connector (and if someone has a buy link: even better!). Thanks!\n
\n
edit: [www.jst.com/products/…/vr-connector/](https://www.jst.com/products/insulation-displacement-connectors-wire-to-board-type/vr-connector/) this looks like the socket, but the pitch seems wrong? 
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Show voter details
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| 77 |
DENIED
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ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2351
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
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\n
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Show voter details
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edit
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Show voter details
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| 84 |
DENIED
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moderate
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Rules\n
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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\n
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I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
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\n
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\n
---
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+url: null
+body: """
I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
\n
When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
\n
To install the jack itself however, I thought that it may be dangerous to have the stereo send current to the AUX device and vice versa, so I thought about installing a switch to cut the stereo’s audio input lines when using the jack and vice versa.\n
\n
I thought about just muting the stereo, or turning the volume to 0, or using a dummy paused CD, but all of the three activate the mute line on the amp, which isn’t a simple binary on/off deal, and activating it would also mute the jack. \n
[Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
\n
This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg) \n
I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
\n
I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
\n
However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
\n
Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
\n
I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
\n
The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
"""
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
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\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
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\n
---
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
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[www.adafruit.com/product/4855](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4855)\n
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with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
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[www.adafruit.com/product/4855](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4855)\n
\n
with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
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Rules\n
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I’m looking for a version of this connector (2x2, 2.54mm):\n
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[www.adafruit.com/product/4855](https://www.adafruit.com/product/4855)\n
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with extra long pins, like this: [www.adafruit.com/product/2223](https://www.adafruit.com/product/2223)\n
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Show voter details
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DENIED
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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DENIED
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edit
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App\Entity\Entry {#2118
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
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\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
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Show voter details
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| 100 |
DENIED
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moderate
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App\Entity\Entry {#2118
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\n
Rules\n
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\n
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4: Be safe.\n
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+title: "Can't find a 7.4 x 5.08mm female chassis mount socket - am I using the wrong description?"
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I have a 12v 6.67A power supply with a male co-axial plug (with centre pin) that’s 7.4mm OD and 5.08mm ID. The metal tube is 12.5mm long.\n
\n
The pin is recessed and about 1mm in diameter - which seems impossibly small for 6.67A.\n
\n
A chassis mount socket that would take it would come in handy. But I don’t seem to be able to find one. Am I just using the wrong search terms?\n
\n
Any pointers much appreciated.
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Show voter details
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| 101 |
DENIED
|
edit
|
App\Entity\Magazine {#399
+icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
+name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
+title: "askelectronics"
+description: """
**For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
\n
Rules\n
-----\n
\n
1: Be nice.\n
\n
2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
\n
3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
\n
4: Be safe.\n
\n
---
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