Symfony Profiler

Key	Value
provider	security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context	main
entry_point	App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker	App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler	(none)
access_denied_url	(none)
authenticators	[`"two_factor" "remember_me" "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator" "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator" "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator" "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator" "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"`]

Listener	Duration	Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723`-map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …} -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -httpPort: 80 -httpsPort: 443`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …} -sessionKey: "_security_main" -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …} -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …} -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …} -registered: false -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …} -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}}	0.66 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584`-authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582`-twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …} -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}`}	0.04 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …} -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786`-tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …} -options: [ "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token" "csrf_token_id" => "logout" "logout_path" => "app_logout" ] -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …} -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …} -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}`}	0.00 ms	(none)

#	Voter class
1	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2	"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4	"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5	"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6	"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7	"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8	"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9	"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10	"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11	"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12	"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13	"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14	"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

1

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

2

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1757
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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  +title: "What kind of connector is this?"
  +url: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/e0ca4595-3cc4-4085-8046-cecd74060a0e.jpeg"
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    Here’s a power cable from a Cmt-ex1 Sony CD player. This connector used to be connected to the inside of the power supply. However, I had to disassemble it because I needed to replace the motherboard for the CD player. I found this CD player at Goodwill, but the wire was poorly connected with a completely different cable. It was patched together using electrical tape and wire connectors. If there isn’t any type of connector like this in the world. how could I Frankenstein it with another cable without it looking somewhat ugly.\n
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    The original cable was called E81093 (UL) NISPT-2 VW-1 105C 2X18AWG, C(UL) NONINTEGRAL SPT-2 FT1. Also the yellow plastic says Amp with a + on top of the M. this CD player is from 2000.
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3

DENIED

edit

App\Entity\Entry {#1757
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1421 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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    +title: "askelectronics"
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      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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    Here’s a power cable from a Cmt-ex1 Sony CD player. This connector used to be connected to the inside of the power supply. However, I had to disassemble it because I needed to replace the motherboard for the CD player. I found this CD player at Goodwill, but the wire was poorly connected with a completely different cable. It was patched together using electrical tape and wire connectors. If there isn’t any type of connector like this in the world. how could I Frankenstein it with another cable without it looking somewhat ugly.\n
    \n
    The original cable was called E81093 (UL) NISPT-2 VW-1 105C 2X18AWG, C(UL) NONINTEGRAL SPT-2 FT1. Also the yellow plastic says Amp with a + on top of the M. this CD player is from 2000.
    """
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}

4

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1757
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    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
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    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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      4: Be safe.\n
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      """
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    Here’s a power cable from a Cmt-ex1 Sony CD player. This connector used to be connected to the inside of the power supply. However, I had to disassemble it because I needed to replace the motherboard for the CD player. I found this CD player at Goodwill, but the wire was poorly connected with a completely different cable. It was patched together using electrical tape and wire connectors. If there isn’t any type of connector like this in the world. how could I Frankenstein it with another cable without it looking somewhat ugly.\n
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}

5

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

6

DENIED

moderate

App\Entity\Entry {#1694
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#1700 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#399
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#301 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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      1: Be nice.\n
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      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
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      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
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      4: Be safe.\n
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      ---
      """
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7

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8

DENIED

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9

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11

DENIED

edit

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15

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16

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    \n
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    """
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23

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24

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25

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27

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31

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32

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    1. how can I trasform the output connection to a more “standard” output connection (ideally V+ and V- wires)\n
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    Any safety concerns, other than don’t poke it? :D
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    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
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    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
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    I bought a PWM Dimmer based on a 555 from AliExpress to regulate the brightness of a 12V 1A 1 meter LED strip, I already built one myself years ago on a perfboard but this one was the exact dimensions I needed for a project. I built mine from components from AliExpress and components found in old electronics so I thought nothing functionally would change The dimmer is this one [diymore.cc/…/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming…](https://www.diymore.cc/products/pwm-10a-speed-regulation-led-dimming-ultra-high-linearity-band-switch) but I attached a real photo of the one I got from AliExpress My problem is that it isn’t doing any regulation while connected to LED strips, I tried with the 1m one and with another light that has three 30cm LED strips in parallel Every other light or motor I connected to it seemed to make it work. I really have no idea what could be causing this, maybe it’s sensible to capacitance? LED strips are two long straight parallel contacts but I don’t think it’s enough to cause anything as displayed here in the video: [live.staticflickr.com/video/…/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo…](https://live.staticflickr.com/video/53017878188/54f865d36d/1080p.mp4?s=eyJpIjo1MzAxNzg3ODE4OCwiZSI6MTY4ODMxNzgwMCwicyI6ImI2MjZiMzk3MjExNTQxZWIyOTYwYzAyNTRmZDNhZDZjZTcwOWUxOGYiLCJ2IjoxfQ)\n
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    \n
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    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
    \n
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    \n
    I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
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    I tried adding an AUX jack to a car stereo with an internal CD player and no native support for one.\n
    \n
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    \n
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    [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/07c73cda-6a66-47ec-984b-22b26859683a.png)\n
    \n
    This is the original schematic of the amp circuit: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/55fd9a9a-2b5e-4bc0-bfa5-1513dacbbb0f.jpeg)  \n
    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
    \n
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    \n
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    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
    """
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    \n
    When I first did tests, simply attaching to one of the amp’s input lines while the stereo was at min volume (1, not 0, more on this later) worked wonderfully.\n
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    I attached to the IN1-4 lines like this: [Image](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/3b9bf33c-685d-47a1-8313-23af3c6fd6da.png)\n
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    I left the rear channels disconnected because a friend of mine suggested jumping two input lines could cause issues to the amp\n
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    However, once all was done, it wasn’t working correctly. First of all, when I flip the switch, some signal from the stereo still gets through. It’s very faint and you have to turn the volume way up to hear it, but it’s there. This concerns me if it may lead to damage to either the plugged in device or the stereo, and if it could be the cause of the following issue.\n
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    Second, when a male to male cable is plugged in the other end (without even anything attached to the other end), a high pitched whine starts playing from the speakers. I tried bypassing the jack with alligator clips to the rear terminals, but it still happens, and when this happens I suddenly read a resistance of 7~8MΩ between either of the jack’s channels and ground. I haven’t tried another cable, but if I test the cable itself when it’s unplugged I can’t read anything between the rings.\n
    \n
    I’m especially puzzled as to why there were no issues when I tried by tapping into the lines, but now that I did it “”“properly”“” (at least in my head) it’s problematic.\n
    \n
    The full schematic for the stereo can be found by googling “BLAUPUNKT FIAT B-MPV CD-MP3 7645324316 SM”
    """
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55

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56

DENIED

moderate

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57

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

58

DENIED

moderate

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}

59

DENIED

edit

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60

DENIED

moderate

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61

DENIED

ROLE_USER

null

62

DENIED

moderate

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    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
    \n
    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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    2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
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    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
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    2. What exactly is wrong with the circuit I built? I want the LED to only turn on when 5V is supplied at the input, right now the LED can turn on if I connect the ground to the voltage rail supply even without an input voltage.\n
    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
    """
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64

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    Since I never understood op-amps from reading or practicing problems I wanted to build a circuit to probe around and use different resistor values to set the amplification.\n
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    Currently I am attempting to build an LM358 Non-Inverting Op Amp. I am using my power supply for a +/- 12V rail, and my Arduino Uno for my 5V supply at the V+ input pin. I have chosen two 1k resistors to amplify the signal to 10V at the output and put and led as a indication that the circuit is working.\n
    \n
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    3. I’ve seen the post on Adafruit with the feedback resistors connected to the same ground as the rail supply, but the circuit diagram does not show where the input voltage ground is? Link: [blog.adafruit.com/…/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-…](https://blog.adafruit.com/2012/06/13/ask-an-educator-making-a-non-inverting-op-amp-circuit-on-a-breadboard/)
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    What I've done is take a large 2n3055 BJT NPN power transistor, and decap it (it is a large metal-can type). Then I carefully removed any coating from the exposed silicon (it typically has a dab of silicone potting compound on it).\n
    \n
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    \n
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75

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83

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91

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92

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93

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99

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