GET https://kbin.spritesserver.nl/m/askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de/comments/oldest?p=26

Security

Token

There is no security token.

Firewall

main Name
Security enabled
Stateless

Configuration

Key Value
provider security.user.provider.concrete.app_user_provider
context main
entry_point App\Security\KbinAuthenticator
user_checker App\Security\UserChecker
access_denied_handler (none)
access_denied_url (none)
authenticators
[
  "two_factor"
  "remember_me"
  "App\Security\KbinAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\FacebookAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GoogleAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\GithubAuthenticator"
  "App\Security\KeycloakAuthenticator"
]

Listeners

Listener Duration Response
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ChannelListener {#723
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -httpPort: 80
  -httpsPort: 443
}
0.00 ms (none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\ContextListener {#706
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\TokenStorage {#1017 …}
  -sessionKey: "_security_main"
  -logger: Monolog\Logger {#783 …}
  -userProviders: Symfony\Component\DependencyInjection\Argument\RewindableGenerator {#705 …}
  -dispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
  -registered: false
  -trustResolver: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authentication\AuthenticationTrustResolver {#780 …}
  -sessionTrackerEnabler: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage::enableUsageTracking(): void {#703 …}
}
3.98 ms (none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AuthenticatorManagerListener {#584
  -authenticatorManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Authentication\AuthenticatorManager {#595 …}
}
0.00 ms (none)
Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Http\Firewall\TwoFactorAccessListener {#582
  -twoFactorFirewallConfig: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\TwoFactor\TwoFactorFirewallConfig {#842 …}
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -twoFactorAccessDecider: Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\TwoFactorAccessDecider {#581 …}
}
0.06 ms (none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\AccessListener {#579
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -accessDecisionManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\TraceableAccessDecisionManager {#937 …}
  -map: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\AccessMap {#722 …}
}
0.00 ms (none)
Symfony\Component\Security\Http\Firewall\LogoutListener {#786
  -tokenStorage: Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authentication\Token\Storage\UsageTrackingTokenStorage {#1018 …}
  -options: [
    "csrf_parameter" => "_csrf_token"
    "csrf_token_id" => "logout"
    "logout_path" => "app_logout"
  ]
  -httpUtils: Symfony\Component\Security\Http\HttpUtils {#841 …}
  -csrfTokenManager: Symfony\Component\Security\Csrf\CsrfTokenManager {#1015 …}
  -eventDispatcher: Symfony\Component\EventDispatcher\Debug\TraceableEventDispatcher {#747 …}
}
0.00 ms (none)

Authenticators

No authenticators have been recorded. Check previous profiles on your authentication endpoint.

Access Decision

affirmative Strategy
# Voter class
1
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\AuthenticatedVoter"
2
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
3
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
4
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\ExpressionVoter"
5
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
6
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
7
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
8
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
9
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
10
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
11
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
12
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
13
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
14
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"

Access decision log

# Result Attributes Object
1 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
2 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1783
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1455 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1753 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#306
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#287 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#314
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#278 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#274 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#263 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#241 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#158 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#144 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#122 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#112 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#101 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#88 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#315
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#309
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "Just get a boost converter. Cheap, like < $20. Your only worry would be amps, but fans can’t draw enough to really concern yourself."
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1698602964 {#1539
    date: 2023-10-29 19:09:24.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@chrischryse@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1746 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1750 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1475 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1487 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1623 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1419 …}
  -id: 77512
  -bodyTs: "'20':8 'amp':14 'boost':4 'cheap':6 'concern':23 'convert':5 'draw':19 'enough':20 'fan':16 'get':2 'like':7 'realli':22 'worri':11 'would':12"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://sopuli.xyz/comment/4144637"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542203 {#1498
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:43.0 +01:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542160 {#1681
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
3 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1783
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1455 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1753 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#306
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#287 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#314
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#278 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#274 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#263 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#241 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#158 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#144 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#122 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#112 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#101 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#88 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#315
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#309
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "Just get a boost converter. Cheap, like < $20. Your only worry would be amps, but fans can’t draw enough to really concern yourself."
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1698602964 {#1539
    date: 2023-10-29 19:09:24.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@chrischryse@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1746 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1750 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1475 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1487 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1623 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1419 …}
  -id: 77512
  -bodyTs: "'20':8 'amp':14 'boost':4 'cheap':6 'concern':23 'convert':5 'draw':19 'enough':20 'fan':16 'get':2 'like':7 'realli':22 'worri':11 'would':12"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://sopuli.xyz/comment/4144637"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542203 {#1498
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:43.0 +01:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542160 {#1681
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
4 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#1783
  +user: App\Entity\User {#1455 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1753 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#306
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#287 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#314
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#278 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#274 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#263 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#241 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#158 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#144 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#122 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#112 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#101 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#88 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#315
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#309
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: null
  +root: null
  +body: "Just get a boost converter. Cheap, like < $20. Your only worry would be amps, but fans can’t draw enough to really concern yourself."
  +lang: "en"
  +isAdult: false
  +favouriteCount: 1
  +score: 0
  +lastActive: DateTime @1698602964 {#1539
    date: 2023-10-29 19:09:24.0 +01:00
  }
  +ip: null
  +tags: null
  +mentions: [
    "@chrischryse@discuss.tchncs.de"
  ]
  +children: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1746 …}
  +nested: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1750 …}
  +votes: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1475 …}
  +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1487 …}
  +favourites: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1623 …}
  +notifications: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#1419 …}
  -id: 77512
  -bodyTs: "'20':8 'amp':14 'boost':4 'cheap':6 'concern':23 'convert':5 'draw':19 'enough':20 'fan':16 'get':2 'like':7 'realli':22 'worri':11 'would':12"
  +ranking: 0
  +commentCount: 0
  +upVotes: 0
  +downVotes: 0
  +visibility: "visible             "
  +apId: "https://sopuli.xyz/comment/4144637"
  +editedAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542203 {#1498
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:43.0 +01:00
  }
  +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1698542160 {#1681
    date: 2023-10-29 02:16:00.0 +01:00
  }
}
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
5 DENIED ROLE_USER
null
"Scheb\TwoFactorBundle\Security\Authorization\Voter\TwoFactorInProgressVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"Symfony\Component\Security\Core\Authorization\Voter\RoleHierarchyVoter"
ACCESS DENIED
"App\Security\Voter\EntryCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\EntryVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MagazineVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageThreadVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\MessageVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\NotificationVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\OAuth2UserConsentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostCommentVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\PostVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
"App\Security\Voter\UserVoter"
ACCESS ABSTAIN
Show voter details
6 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#2947
  +user: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\User {#3030 …}
  +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1753 …}
  +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#306
    +icon: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Image {#287 …}
    +name: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +title: "askelectronics"
    +description: """
      **For questions about component-level electronic circuits, tools and equipment.**\n
      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
      1: Be nice.\n
      \n
      2: Be on-topic (eg: *Electronic*, not *electrical*).\n
      \n
      3: No commercial stuff, buying, selling or valuations.\n
      \n
      4: Be safe.\n
      \n
      ---
      """
    +rules: null
    +subscriptionsCount: 1
    +entryCount: 154
    +entryCommentCount: 1230
    +postCount: 1
    +postCommentCount: 4
    +isAdult: false
    +customCss: null
    +lastActive: DateTime @1729413608 {#314
      date: 2024-10-20 10:40:08.0 +02:00
    }
    +markedForDeletionAt: null
    +tags: null
    +moderators: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#278 …}
    +ownershipRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#274 …}
    +moderatorRequests: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#263 …}
    +entries: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#221 …}
    +posts: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#179 …}
    +subscriptions: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#241 …}
    +bans: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#158 …}
    +reports: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#144 …}
    +badges: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#122 …}
    +logs: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#112 …}
    +awards: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#101 …}
    +categories: Doctrine\ORM\PersistentCollection {#88 …}
    -id: 11
    +apId: "askelectronics@discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apProfileId: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apPublicUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics"
    +apFollowersUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/askelectronics/followers"
    +apInboxUrl: "https://discuss.tchncs.de/inbox"
    +apDomain: "discuss.tchncs.de"
    +apPreferredUsername: "askelectronics"
    +apDiscoverable: true
    +apManuallyApprovesFollowers: null
    +privateKey: null
    +publicKey: null
    +apFetchedAt: DateTime @1727247714 {#315
      date: 2024-09-25 09:01:54.0 +02:00
    }
    +apDeletedAt: null
    +apTimeoutAt: null
    +visibility: "visible             "
    +createdAt: DateTimeImmutable @1687144409 {#309
      date: 2023-06-19 05:13:29.0 +02:00
    }
  }
  +image: null
  +parent: App\Entity\EntryComment {#1783
    +user: App\Entity\User {#1455 …}
    +entry: Proxies\__CG__\App\Entity\Entry {#1753 …}
    +magazine: App\Entity\Magazine {#306}
    +image: null
    +parent: null
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Show voter details
9 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
10 DENIED moderate
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    I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
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    Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
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      I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
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      Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
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      I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
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      Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
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Show voter details
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      I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
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      Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
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Show voter details
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Show voter details
22 DENIED moderate
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        +body: "I figured you already had some type of adapter already. Either the one you linked, or the DC connection from the printer. If that’s the case, then it’s ridiculously easy to do a DC to DC adapter. If you do not have a DC supply and just need a 24v power supply, splurge on something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/100-240V-Converter-Transformer-Switching-5-5mmx2-5mm/dp/B09281KTS8)."
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23 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3311
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        I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
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        Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
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Show voter details
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        I just have my laptop one which I don;'t want to splice because well I use it for my laptop too lol\n
        \n
        Would I be better off with that type of power supply?
        """
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Show voter details
25 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
26 DENIED moderate
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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Show voter details
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    Yeah don’t worry about it. Running a fan at a lower voltage than it’s meant for will result in slower fan speeds and a longer lifetime. Compared to the wattage an actual laptop will draw this is absolutely nothing. I power my soldering iron with an old laptop charger without issues.\n
    \n
    Those plugs are generally used in 12V systems but they can handle higher voltages too. It’s the current you need to be mindful of for the most part, they can overheat if you try to power a space heater or something from that but a few fans won’t cause any issues.
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34 DENIED moderate
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36 DENIED moderate
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38 DENIED moderate
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    Yeah, just gonna chime in here real quick.\n
    \n
    I went down this road just as you. I found out that most MOTs are rather weak for 18650 nickel strips.\n
    \n
    You need a transformer rated around 1500 watts. Most are 700-900 watts. I ended up wiring 2 transformers in parallel. Also, make sure to remove the transformer’s shunts. They are a form of current limiting and will impact your amps at the end.\n
    \n
    Finally, make sure to carefully regulate your pressure with the copper tips. High pressure does indeed equal a weaker weld.\n
    \n
    AC in general is also not the best for very short pulses of welds. I have found that 40-60ms work best for 0.2 with around 1000amps. Anything less didn’t weld tbh and the MOT couldn’t pull amps fast enough. I tried all sorts of windings and cable thicknesses. I finally chose 6AWG and I’m happy enough with 2 transformers.
    """
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    Yeah, just gonna chime in here real quick.\n
    \n
    I went down this road just as you. I found out that most MOTs are rather weak for 18650 nickel strips.\n
    \n
    You need a transformer rated around 1500 watts. Most are 700-900 watts. I ended up wiring 2 transformers in parallel. Also, make sure to remove the transformer’s shunts. They are a form of current limiting and will impact your amps at the end.\n
    \n
    Finally, make sure to carefully regulate your pressure with the copper tips. High pressure does indeed equal a weaker weld.\n
    \n
    AC in general is also not the best for very short pulses of welds. I have found that 40-60ms work best for 0.2 with around 1000amps. Anything less didn’t weld tbh and the MOT couldn’t pull amps fast enough. I tried all sorts of windings and cable thicknesses. I finally chose 6AWG and I’m happy enough with 2 transformers.
    """
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    Yeah, just gonna chime in here real quick.\n
    \n
    I went down this road just as you. I found out that most MOTs are rather weak for 18650 nickel strips.\n
    \n
    You need a transformer rated around 1500 watts. Most are 700-900 watts. I ended up wiring 2 transformers in parallel. Also, make sure to remove the transformer’s shunts. They are a form of current limiting and will impact your amps at the end.\n
    \n
    Finally, make sure to carefully regulate your pressure with the copper tips. High pressure does indeed equal a weaker weld.\n
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    AC in general is also not the best for very short pulses of welds. I have found that 40-60ms work best for 0.2 with around 1000amps. Anything less didn’t weld tbh and the MOT couldn’t pull amps fast enough. I tried all sorts of windings and cable thicknesses. I finally chose 6AWG and I’m happy enough with 2 transformers.
    """
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42 DENIED moderate
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    Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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    This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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43 DENIED edit
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    Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
    \n
    This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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    Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
    \n
    This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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46 DENIED moderate
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      Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
      \n
      This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
      """
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    That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
    \n
    However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
    \n
    The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
    \n
    Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
    """
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      Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
      \n
      This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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    That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
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    However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
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    The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
    \n
    Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
    """
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      Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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    That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
    \n
    However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
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    The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
    \n
    Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
    """
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50 DENIED moderate
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        Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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        This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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      That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
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      However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
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  +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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51 DENIED edit
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        Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
        \n
        This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
        """
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      That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
      \n
      However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
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      The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
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      Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
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  +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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52 DENIED moderate
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        Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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        This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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      That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
      \n
      However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
      \n
      The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
      \n
      Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
      """
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  +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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54 DENIED moderate
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          Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
          \n
          This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
          """
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        That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
        \n
        However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
        \n
        The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
        \n
        Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
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    TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
    \n
    EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
    \n
    The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
    \n
    There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
    """
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          Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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          This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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        That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
        \n
        However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
        \n
        The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
        \n
        Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
        """
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    TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
    \n
    EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
    \n
    The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
    \n
    There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
    """
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          Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
          \n
          This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
          """
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        That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
        \n
        However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
        \n
        The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
        \n
        Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
        """
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    +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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    TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
    \n
    EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
    \n
    The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
    \n
    There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
    """
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            Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
            \n
            This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
            """
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          That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
          \n
          However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
          \n
          The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
          \n
          Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
          """
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      +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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      TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
      \n
      EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
      \n
      The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
      \n
      There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
      """
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  +body: "skipped reading the silkscreen … it says Q1 on the lowermost package but the other three are diodes. so could also be a forward converter or something similar."
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            Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
            \n
            This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
            """
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          That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
          \n
          However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
          \n
          The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
          \n
          Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
          """
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      +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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      TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
      \n
      EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
      \n
      The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
      \n
      There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
      """
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  +body: "skipped reading the silkscreen … it says Q1 on the lowermost package but the other three are diodes. so could also be a forward converter or something similar."
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            Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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            This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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        +body: """
          That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.\n
          \n
          However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.\n
          \n
          The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.\n
          \n
          Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
          """
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      +body: "indeed it looks like a Royer oscillator in there (because there are transistors before AND after the transformer)."
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    +body: """
      TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.\n
      \n
      EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.\n
      \n
      The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.\n
      \n
      There’s still a little SO-8 and optocouplers.
      """
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  +body: "skipped reading the silkscreen … it says Q1 on the lowermost package but the other three are diodes. so could also be a forward converter or something similar."
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      Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything *higher* via IC’s.\n
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      This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
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70 DENIED moderate
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    As others have said, increasing the output by 5/6 is unrealistic. And even it would work, it’d only be for a short while. Best case is that it works and you’re home *and* awake when it catches fire.\n
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    Better buy a dedicated powersupply. How expensive something is, is in the eye of the beholder, but it is worth it. Most of the ones on this list can be adjusted 10 or 15% and that should get you there from 24V. And they’re actually meant to do it. [dk.rs-online.com/…/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-s…](https://dk.rs-online.com/web/c/stromforsyninger-og-transformere/stromforsyninger/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-smps/?pn=1&rpp=100&sortBy=P_breakPrice1&sortType=ASC&applied-dimensions=4294965650,4290297838,4291523693,4294965001,4293335399,4293589165,4294472088,4294478231,4294273800)
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Show voter details
71 DENIED edit
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    As others have said, increasing the output by 5/6 is unrealistic. And even it would work, it’d only be for a short while. Best case is that it works and you’re home *and* awake when it catches fire.\n
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    Better buy a dedicated powersupply. How expensive something is, is in the eye of the beholder, but it is worth it. Most of the ones on this list can be adjusted 10 or 15% and that should get you there from 24V. And they’re actually meant to do it. [dk.rs-online.com/…/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-s…](https://dk.rs-online.com/web/c/stromforsyninger-og-transformere/stromforsyninger/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-smps/?pn=1&rpp=100&sortBy=P_breakPrice1&sortType=ASC&applied-dimensions=4294965650,4290297838,4291523693,4294965001,4293335399,4293589165,4294472088,4294478231,4294273800)
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Show voter details
72 DENIED moderate
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      \n
      Rules\n
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    As others have said, increasing the output by 5/6 is unrealistic. And even it would work, it’d only be for a short while. Best case is that it works and you’re home *and* awake when it catches fire.\n
    \n
    Better buy a dedicated powersupply. How expensive something is, is in the eye of the beholder, but it is worth it. Most of the ones on this list can be adjusted 10 or 15% and that should get you there from 24V. And they’re actually meant to do it. [dk.rs-online.com/…/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-s…](https://dk.rs-online.com/web/c/stromforsyninger-og-transformere/stromforsyninger/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-smps/?pn=1&rpp=100&sortBy=P_breakPrice1&sortType=ASC&applied-dimensions=4294965650,4290297838,4291523693,4294965001,4293335399,4293589165,4294472088,4294478231,4294273800)
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Show voter details
73 DENIED ROLE_USER
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74 DENIED moderate
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Show voter details
79 DENIED edit
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84 DENIED moderate
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    Are you able to measure the input current during a weld?\n
    \n
    I suspect you might not have enough copper in the secondary. Fully insulated wires take up a lot of space; there’s a reason magnet wire is commonly used. Several parallel turns of e.g. 6mm^2 magnet wire would be preferable.\n
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    Your SSR generally should be in the phase, not the neutral.
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86 DENIED moderate
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88 DENIED moderate
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    Replying to myself for informational reason. Modifying voltage was more or less successful. Both optocouplers transmit a reference voltage, so both need to be adjusted simultaneously.\n
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    This can be done by changing the value of R19, a 23.2k smd resistor close to the output terminals.\n
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    I’ve attached a 10k pot with a 10k and 6.8k resistor in series and successfully modified the voltage down to 22.5.\n
    \n
    The power supply itself is a piece of crap though. It claims to handle 400W but anything over 150W causes the short circuit protection to activate, never mind overheating at 150W very quickly.\n
    \n
    ![](https://discuss.tchncs.de/pictrs/image/46f3459e-36ed-4579-b72c-9f41603da85a.jpeg)
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    If you want a fan, why not buy a whole assembled fan? There are 10mm and 15mm fans available.\n
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94 DENIED moderate
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}
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Show voter details
95 DENIED edit
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      If you want a fan, why not buy a whole assembled fan? There are 10mm and 15mm fans available.\n
      \n
      [www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/…/9805482?utm_…](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sunon-fans/UF3A3-700TC/9805482?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax%20Shopping_Product_Medium%20ROAS%20Categories&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20223376311_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-9805482_sig-CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC2Ttw0neG0EI6dWMknvt-j5AM1hHRZyi0VnILDQ7MoZNEe34IoIR7BoC3SYQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC2Ttw0neG0EI6dWMknvt-j5AM1hHRZyi0VnILDQ7MoZNEe34IoIR7BoC3SYQAvD_BwE)
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Show voter details
96 DENIED moderate
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      Rules\n
      -----\n
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      If you want a fan, why not buy a whole assembled fan? There are 10mm and 15mm fans available.\n
      \n
      [www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/…/9805482?utm_…](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sunon-fans/UF3A3-700TC/9805482?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax%20Shopping_Product_Medium%20ROAS%20Categories&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20223376311_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-9805482_sig-CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC2Ttw0neG0EI6dWMknvt-j5AM1hHRZyi0VnILDQ7MoZNEe34IoIR7BoC3SYQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC2Ttw0neG0EI6dWMknvt-j5AM1hHRZyi0VnILDQ7MoZNEe34IoIR7BoC3SYQAvD_BwE)
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Show voter details
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Show voter details
98 DENIED moderate
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Show voter details
99 DENIED edit
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      Rules\n
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Show voter details
100 DENIED moderate
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102 DENIED moderate
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Show voter details
103 DENIED edit
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Show voter details
104 DENIED moderate
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    +body: "Try searching for “coreless motor”, gives me lots of ebay results with tiny 7mm diameter dc motors looking like this: [external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F…](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.0qbVZk69iUxzXpp-87VHFwHaHa%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=34626bb8832b480226ede8e0a44a8013a56d9217b7cb576ec699024a06297899&ipo=images)"
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  +body: "These seem pretty weak but they are cheap so i may try them if i find some from a good source. Thanks you."
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    These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
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    They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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    If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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    \n
    They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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Show voter details
108 DENIED moderate
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    \n
    They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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Show voter details
109 DENIED ROLE_USER
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Show voter details
110 DENIED moderate
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Show voter details
114 DENIED moderate
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      These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
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      These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
      \n
      They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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      If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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Show voter details
120 DENIED moderate
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      These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
      \n
      They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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      If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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        These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
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        They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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        If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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    In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
    \n
    It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
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    Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
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        These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
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    In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
    \n
    It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
    \n
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        If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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    +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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    In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
    \n
    It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
    \n
    One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
    \n
    Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
    """
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          These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
          \n
          They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
          \n
          If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
          """
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      +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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      In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
      \n
      It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
      \n
      One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
      \n
      Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
      """
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  +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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          These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
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      In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
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      It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
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          These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
          \n
          They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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          If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
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      In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
      \n
      It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
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138 DENIED moderate
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3288
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          +body: """
            These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
            \n
            They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
            \n
            If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
            """
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        +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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      +body: """
        In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
        \n
        It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
        \n
        One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
        \n
        Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
        """
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    +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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      "@Saigonauticon@voltage.vn"
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  +body: """
    Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
    \n
    Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
    \n
    [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
    \n
    An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
    """
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Show voter details
139 DENIED edit
App\Entity\EntryComment {#3288
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      \n
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            These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
            \n
            They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
            \n
            If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
            """
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        +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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        In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
        \n
        It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
        \n
        One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
        \n
        Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
        """
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    +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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    Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
    \n
    Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
    \n
    [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
    \n
    An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
    """
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            These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
            \n
            They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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            If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
            """
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        +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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      +body: """
        In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
        \n
        It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
        \n
        One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
        \n
        Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
        """
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    +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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    Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
    \n
    Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
    \n
    [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
    \n
    An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
    """
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              These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
              \n
              They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
              \n
              If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
              """
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          +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
          \n
          It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
          \n
          One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
          \n
          Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
          """
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      +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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    +body: """
      Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
      \n
      Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
      \n
      [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
      \n
      An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
      """
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  +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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              These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
              \n
              They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
              \n
              If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
              """
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          +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
          \n
          It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
          \n
          One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
          \n
          Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
          """
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      +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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    +body: """
      Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
      \n
      Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
      \n
      [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
      \n
      An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
      """
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  +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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              These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
              \n
              They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
              \n
              If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
              """
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          +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
          \n
          It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
          \n
          One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
          \n
          Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
          """
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      +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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      Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
      \n
      Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
      \n
      [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
      \n
      An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
      """
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  +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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                These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
                \n
                They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
                \n
                If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
                """
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            +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          +body: """
            In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
            \n
            It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
            \n
            One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
            \n
            Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
            """
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        +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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        Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
        \n
        Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
        \n
        [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
        \n
        An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
        """
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    +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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                These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
                \n
                They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
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                If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
                """
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            +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          +body: """
            In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
            \n
            It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
            \n
            One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
            \n
            Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
            """
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        +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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        Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
        \n
        Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
        \n
        [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
        \n
        An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
        """
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    +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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                These are the smallest fans that I know of: [www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/](https://www.mouser.com/new/sunon/sunon-mighty-mini-fan/)\n
                \n
                They go down to 9mm x 9mm x 3mm.\n
                \n
                If this is to cool some component in the flashlight, have you considered a heatsink instead?
                """
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            +body: "These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help."
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          +body: """
            In *seconds*? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!\n
            \n
            It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).\n
            \n
            One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.\n
            \n
            Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
            """
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        +body: "Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper."
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      +body: """
        Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.\n
        \n
        Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:\n
        \n
        [pcbgogo.com/…/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by…](https://www.pcbgogo.com/Article/An_Introduction_to_Aluminum_PCBs_by_PCBGOGO.html)\n
        \n
        An alternative would be copper-clad polyimide adhered to the body. That also has better thermal properties than FR4.
        """
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    +body: "I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The [flashlight community](https://lemmy.zip/c/flashlight@lemmy.world) has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design."
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  +body: "That sounds even better!"
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Show voter details
155 DENIED edit
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      \n
      Rules\n
      -----\n
      \n
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      Are we talking a handheld flashlight? Or is it something a bit more hefty?\n
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      Reason I’m asking is the bearings in the fan and motors. A handheld flashlight is going to take a beating, and the bearings can easily be knocked out of alignment.
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Show voter details
157 DENIED edit
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Show voter details