I figured you already had some type of adapter already. Either the one you linked, or the DC connection from the printer. If that’s the case, then it’s ridiculously easy to do a DC to DC adapter. If you do not have a DC supply and just need a 24v power supply, splurge on something like this.
Honestly you’d probably be fine with your original idea. But, that means you can’t charge your laptop while printing and, the 24v power supply I linked to is cheaper than your original idea.
Those adapters should definitely be fine for 24 V. Running the fans off 19 V will probably work, but they will run at slightly slower RPM (probably not a big problem for a filter).
Yeah don’t worry about it. Running a fan at a lower voltage than it’s meant for will result in slower fan speeds and a longer lifetime. Compared to the wattage an actual laptop will draw this is absolutely nothing. I power my soldering iron with an old laptop charger without issues.
Those plugs are generally used in 12V systems but they can handle higher voltages too. It’s the current you need to be mindful of for the most part, they can overheat if you try to power a space heater or something from that but a few fans won’t cause any issues.
Depending on the power consumption, you may consider not using thermal relief while connecting thermal vias for the chip (component 57) to ground layers. But this may make soldering harder so do it only if needed. Thermal vias are so close that they form 3 long dents in 3v3 plane. It is good practice to put vias a little far apart so that planes can go through between vias. This can be important since sometimes lowest impedance can be obtained when current is flowing between those vias. If you don’t need to fit 15 vias there, you may consider reducing the number and separating them a bit. You can also check the design rules for minimum copper width and minimum via clearance for your manufacturer and enter them in your CAD tool.
I went down this road just as you. I found out that most MOTs are rather weak for 18650 nickel strips.
You need a transformer rated around 1500 watts. Most are 700-900 watts. I ended up wiring 2 transformers in parallel. Also, make sure to remove the transformer’s shunts. They are a form of current limiting and will impact your amps at the end.
Finally, make sure to carefully regulate your pressure with the copper tips. High pressure does indeed equal a weaker weld.
AC in general is also not the best for very short pulses of welds. I have found that 40-60ms work best for 0.2 with around 1000amps. Anything less didn’t weld tbh and the MOT couldn’t pull amps fast enough. I tried all sorts of windings and cable thicknesses. I finally chose 6AWG and I’m happy enough with 2 transformers.
Considering there is what appears to be a fixed-stepdown 12 volt AC transformer on the line side of that board, I’d be surprised if you will change anything higher via IC’s.
This may be switch-regulated for rectification and line voltage correction but it definitely does not look modifiable.
That’s not a mains frequency transformer. Not enough steel. It’s a high-frequency all-switchmode supply.
However, that’s not to say you can simply adjust the feedback and have it safely deliver near twice the voltage. The secondary side diodes and capacitors probably won’t be up to it, or will have a very limited life.
The transformer does have a ratio, and the marking makes it clear that this is a specific part for the 12V model. How much leeway there is will depend on topology. Flyback are generally fairly flexible. Other types less so.
Starting with a 24V model and either adjusting the feedback resistors or adding a few diodes would be near trivial. Many will already have a potentiometer that provides that degree of adjustment. Starting with a 12V model is an uphill battle.
TO220 package diodes are pretty common in SMPS applications, so I’m not sure that’s a guarantee.
EDIT: Not sure what you’re getting at here? Royer doesn’t seem to need anything other than a rectifier on the secondary, and plenty of topologies use two power transistors on the primary.
The second smaller transformer below the main one does tend to suggest it could be a Royer, at least from my reading. I don’t see the extra switches needed for it to be a PFC stage.
skipped reading the silkscreen … it says Q1 on the lowermost package but the other three are diodes. so could also be a forward converter or something similar.
Well there certainly is some regulation because attaching a load does not decrease the voltage by much. Increasing the voltage is indeed ambitious for the 12V model but lowering the voltage of the 12V model seems doable.
As others have said, increasing the output by 5/6 is unrealistic. And even it would work, it’d only be for a short while. Best case is that it works and you’re home and awake when it catches fire.
Better buy a dedicated powersupply. How expensive something is, is in the eye of the beholder, but it is worth it. Most of the ones on this list can be adjusted 10 or 15% and that should get you there from 24V. And they’re actually meant to do it. dk.rs-online.com/…/switch-mode-stromforsyninger-s…
It’s probably not a good idea for actual use, but if you’d like to experiment: looks like the 3-pin devices U4 and U5 on the upper right provide feedback through the optocouplers next to the class Y cap north of the transformer. I bet those are LM431 voltage references (or similar). The passives around them provide filtering, but two of the resistors should form a resistor divider for the Ref pin (lower right pin if the single pin is on top). That divider sets the voltage.
Thanks. I ordered the 24V model in hopes of adjusting it down to 22V. I will use that to keep a 7s Li-Ion battery at a minimum charge level whereas a solar panel array may increase that voltage higher. It looks like the 24V model’s capacitors need to be changed as well since they can’t handle the Li-Ion batterys’ max charge voltage.
Are you able to measure the input current during a weld?
I suspect you might not have enough copper in the secondary. Fully insulated wires take up a lot of space; there’s a reason magnet wire is commonly used. Several parallel turns of e.g. 6mm^2 magnet wire would be preferable.
Your SSR generally should be in the phase, not the neutral.
Replying to myself for informational reason. Modifying voltage was more or less successful. Both optocouplers transmit a reference voltage, so both need to be adjusted simultaneously.
This can be done by changing the value of R19, a 23.2k smd resistor close to the output terminals.
I’ve attached a 10k pot with a 10k and 6.8k resistor in series and successfully modified the voltage down to 22.5.
The power supply itself is a piece of crap though. It claims to handle 400W but anything over 150W causes the short circuit protection to activate, never mind overheating at 150W very quickly.
Im surprised they make fans this small but i think they are really weak. Im gonna order one of them to test the airflow but i wanted to make my own one to fit more fan in a package thats good for my light. But thanks anyway im gonna try some of these. If the performance is really bad, a custom built one probably wouldnt be much better.
Soooo turns out mouser had a classical unit conversion error so they wrote 28 times as much airflow than there actually is in the fan specs so im not going to use fans in my flashlight as 2 watts of cooling matters so little that if i just use convection it would cool more.
These seem good and mouser has ip58 ones which are perfect for me. Maybe ill use two of them for example. But im ordering a few because if they dont work im gonna abandon the fan idea. Still cool fans. As for heatsinks the whole flashlight is one. Its a really high power, small flashlight(hotrod). It uses two 14500 lithium cells(basically aa size) to power a boost converter with more than 70 watts. Even tho the boost converter is really efficient the leds produce so much heat that the light overheats in seconds. So thats why i want to test if fans help.
Yeah but its still months from completion. I want to machine it from aluminium but im explorimg all possibilites before i start ordering parts/writing software. When i learn to use github im gonna upload all the files with a permissive license because i want to contribute to the flashlight community.
In seconds? Wow. I think you’re right, you might need more than a small fan!
It might be worth exploring heat pipes or peltier effect coolers. The latter makes the problem worse (they are inefficient and generate a lot of heat) but your LED can be locally cooler if you can e.g. move all that extra heat into a big heatsink (also condensation can be problematic).
One cheap source of heat pipes for testing could be old graphics cards – they often outperform simple copper heat sinks. Use thermal epoxy to stick your LED to it and see if the performance is acceptable. On the exotic end of things, you could also water/oil cool it, or (carefully) make your own thermal grease from industrial diamond powder for a small boost in thermal conductivity.
Also even at 95% efficiency, it sounds like your boost converter has some heat to dump too!
Yeah the problem is the light makes so much heat(the boost as well) that i cant dump it into the air with high enough efficiency. The bodys going to be aluminium and the pcb copper.
Hm, that reminds me! If you’re designing your own PCB, some manufacturers will make the PCB out of aluminum for you instead of FR4. This is commonly used for high-intensity LED lights to help keep them cool.
Here’s some random info about them so you can see what I mean:
I was already planning to use a copper core pcb. This is pretty common among insanely powerfull lights. The flashlight community has some great examples. But most of these lights use resistor based voltage regulators which waste a lot of energy in the form of heat so im trying to improve on the traditional design.
Are we talking a handheld flashlight? Or is it something a bit more hefty?
Reason I’m asking is the bearings in the fan and motors. A handheld flashlight is going to take a beating, and the bearings can easily be knocked out of alignment.
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