the first thing i'd do is connect the GND from your arduino and from your power supply. At the moment there does not seem to be a common ground or it is off picture.
The circuit works when there is a common ground (makes sense ofc but originally I thought they had to be separate), I didn’t want to put 5V and 12V on the same rail of the breadboard. Now what I find strange is that even without the 5V input voltage, I still get 10V at the output of the Op-amp which is very confusing.
Assuming that this is a 10MHz reference, at the extreme your reference is 0.003Hz off from nominal (3e-10, or 0.3ppb error). It varies by 0.08ppb in the plot. IDK what it is that you bought (TCXO, OCXO, whatever), but that's rather impressive stability. Depending on what type of oscillator it is you can expect a temperature coefficient anywhere in the several ppm to 0.1ppb. Do you know by how much the ambient temperature (or even better, the oscillator temperature) changed over the duration of the plot? I don't work with temperature-compensated oscillators very often, but I don't see an issue here.
i assume its measured under laboratory conditions, so it seems ok to me. TCXO, OCXO should usually be operated within their operating voltage range. depends on type. usually i would assume 1.8-3.3v, but who knows without datasheet?
PS For future reference, does this sort of exposed PCB trace (pad?) used for electrical connection take solder well?
I can’t tell if you have gold plate or just raw copper (probably gold. But in either case, yes, it is solderable. You can think a little bit about how they manufacture the boards. First the print on the green solder resist, then they dunk it into an electroplating bath for a gold finish, or a dunk it in solder for HASL. It would be a lot of trouble to go through (=$$$) to individually mask off that part of the board for some special process.
I'd assume that since it's from a thermostat, it's likely a custom made part - most of the common traditional thermostat companies like have been around for a while tend to mostly reuse their existing custom designs instead of using standardised components
Since it's peeling this could be difficult to salvage too... usually I use foil to solve connection issues caused by corrosion, or have a poke around on Ebay for a secondhand one if it's really bad
You could also consider re-shaping a (conductive) paperclip to contact the aa battery in a similar way.
I've had middling-to-good results making battery contacts out of springy bronze metal stock. It solders well, it's easy to shape, and if you get the right kind of metal it retains its springiness well. (510 or 544 alloy, maybe? It's been a while.)
As the other commentor said, ebay is a good place to look for such things but don’t search the part numbers. Search the model number of your device. Get the model number as specific as possible. Sometimes there’ll be a model number printed on the outside or on the box it came in, and that number is like a customer facing model number with a different model number that the manufacturer goes by. Like you’ll have a Samsung Note 8 and that sounds like the model, right? But in reality, it’s a SM-428Z-J12 or something. That’s the model number you want to search. Do some research on your device to get the right one.
Searching for the number hasn't gotten me anywhere neither has searching by the dimensions of the jack. Would like to avoid stealing parts off other systems but as a last resort would consider it.
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