I don’t know much at all about zigbee but I’ve got a house full of zooz zwave dimmers I’ve been mostly happy with. Thesmartesthouse has them on sale often.
Organize? Hahaha ohmygod best laugh I’ve had in a few days.
Some devices have the generic names from the manufacturer because I had issues and had to re-join them a few times, so I got tired of typing the “correct” names. Also I have a light switch labeled “front porch” which is really inaccurate because I’m not turning the porch on and off, it’s the lights! And those lights are now zigbee bulbs of their own, but they at least got more sensible names (“porch light doorbell side” and “porch light right side”).
But I may switch to zigbee2mqtt, so I’ll have a chance to redo all of it anyway.
In general I don’t have so many devices that knowing what is what isn’t a major issue. I name them better in Lovelace, of course.
@barbarosa
For all those sensors (temp, current etc.) I always prefix the entity ID and friendly name with the area name.
I create areas like “kitchen fridge” or “garage fridge” to keep my stuff organized.
Try relocating one of the troublesome units to someplace nearby but not mounted to the ceiling. The top of a bedroom dresser, the floor, a bathroom countertop, the top step of the stairs, halfway down the stairs, hanging from a wall (picture hook)… just get creative.
And since you haven’t mentioned it, I presume these are all smoke detectors? Do you have any heat detectors or carbon monoxide detectors installed?
You are not supposed to have smoke alarms in the bathroom or just outside of a shower bathroom for this reason actually. Also not in the kitchen. A heat detector is recommended for the kitchen.
I had alarms that would go off specifically in the winter in our stair tower because it was a 200 year old house that was renovated badly with no insulation.
Even my Fibaro smart CO alarm got bugged and drained its entire battery in 2 days because it was in a 5-10C environment (within their specs, but they simply lie on the specs).
From my experience, any life saving device simply can’t handle moderately cold temperatures at all, which is honestly extremely ridiculous to me and very dangerous.
Your problem, if dust related would likely be because you are using optical alarms which are easily susceptible to dust. If that is the case, you could try replacing those with ionization alarms on the 2nd floor. Ionization detects flaming fires better and optical detects very smokey fires better.
I have the same problem with a zwave energy meter that randomly send a single reading of multiple gigawatts. This makes the history unusable until I manually delete those data points. I haven’t noticed this problem with any of my zigbee sensors.
This is fairly common with remote sensors. Some are perfect and exist in a perfect system, some do not. I am going to rattle off some of the first things that pop into my head…
Honestly, there are a thousand reasons that you could miss a data point every once in a while. Just looking at the chart, it is still sending a data block but the humidity just reported low for a second. Maybe the thermostat is not getting a data block and filling in the data based on its own clock.
Compare it to other data and see if the system turned on or off. Electronics can be sensitive to power drops and it wasn’t able to feed power to the part of the board that manages the sensor for a second. Maybe there is a condition where a capacitor gets fully discharged for a second and is pulling all current away from the sensor. (It’s usually an analog signal from sensors and maybe a measurement of resistance that translates to temperature or humidity. A voltage drop would significantly impact a reading.)
It could be a timing glitch with the code where it can’t read the sensor but builds the data block anyway. Depending on how the sensor works, it could be trying to compute the data the second it gets polled for data and it has nothing to give.
It could even be the wiring to the rest of the system. HVAC systems vibrate and a screw might be getting loose. It could be a cold solder joint, even. What is to commonality between the two thermostats that you had?
The list goes on. I have always treated sensor data as unreliable. Heck, I have a couple of CO2 sensors that do the same this as what you are seeing here. Every so often, the just report zero for a second.
Mesh protocols like zwave and zigbee aren’t 100% reliable. It could be local interference with the signal.
Without some extensive debugging and the willingness to disassemble your thermostat, just treat it as an annoyance.
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