Can you show us the other side of the drive? Curious what make/model this is supposed to be. Best guess is that this is yet another attempt by a PC manufacturer to sell un-upgradeable units that need to be either replaced as a whole, services only by then, or had at with wire snips and a soldering iron.
I’d say it’s time to carefully cut out that tab (leaving the keys intact), and to start being more careful about what you buy.
No. SAS is a different protocol and requires a different host controller. SAS controllers can typically handle SATA drives, but not the other way around.
If this is for a server or desktop machine, you could install a PCIe SAS HBA.
Looks like that’s actually “SATA Express,” which has lanes for both PCI and SATA - if you look at the other side of the connector (which you should have already shared!) you’ll see even more contacts. You can get either a PCI or SATA adapter in order to use the drive.
Edit: Probably SAS as others said. It uses the exact same connector, which is why I made that guess.
It’s a 2.5” SAS drive. They’re usually used in servers and typically spin a lot faster than consumer SATA drives. You won’t be able to use it in your PC unless you buy an HBA card and some adapters.
I got a used 8 port card from ebay for about $20 a few years ago. I had to flash different firmware to it using a DOS boot disk to disable raid though. It’s an obsolete card, but it’s been working fine in my NAS.
Why yes it’s a SAS drive. You can find that in some NAS models for home use too. Otherwise this is usually server land.
The thing with HBAs is that you usually only get virtual disks on the system side because the controller masks the real disks. This is not really needed any more since modern filesystems can do RAID functionality too - and even better and faster - but that does require direct access to the drive.
Many controllers can be patched though or come with a pass through (JBOD) mode out of the box, which allows you to use that kind of drive directly again. Such drives can be obtained used for cheap too so this may be a feasible option to extend the possible amount of drives for a desktop computer at home too a lot. Most controllers support 4-8 devices.
Can you link to the code you’re running? Also, if your circuit is more complicated than just the sensor connected to the Arduino, can you show a schematic that can be viewed on mobile without kicad available?
Those wet solder sponges cause a thermal shock every time you wipe the tip. I recommend using brass windings instead. They also won’t completely wipe the solder off the tip either.
You always want a small layer of solder on your tip at all times to prevent it from oxidising. Oxidation means bad heat transfer causing soldering to be much more difficult. Also store it with a small blob of solder on it.
You should avoid scraping or sanding the oxidation of the tip. There is a small layer of silver that won’t oxidise so quickly but below that is normal iron. Not sure if that applied to cheaper Chinese irons but it’s better not to learn bad habits. Once you remove the silver layer you’ll get oxidation much more quickly and you’ll have to keep scraping until the tip is gone.
You can remove oxidation with the brass windings much more easily than with a sponge. When you apply solder with flux the rest of the oxidation should come off fairly quickly.
Buying a cheap model to practice is a great idea, when you are used to that you can look into a better iron. I’ve been very happy with the TS100 but the Pinecil is the newer model apparently.
Hm, that’s an unusual issue! I don’t know off the top of my head, but I’ll ask a few questions that might help diagnose the problem.
What kind of soldering iron are you using? A soldering station, or a dollar store ‘firestarter’? Also the wattage? It should be printed on it somewhere.
What type of solder are you using? It’s electronics solder, right?
You’re not getting molten plastic on the soldering iron tip? That tends to ruin them pretty fast.
I can’t tell for sure, but it definitely looks like your pad is gone. If you have an exacto knife you can just gently scrape away the solder mask, find the trace, and solder to the trace.
Basically it’s broken right now. You can try and fix it and it will either work (yay) or not (so just like now) you have nothing to lose. Worst case you tried something new and learned things!!!
askelectronics
Oldest
This magazine is from a federated server and may be incomplete. Browse more on the original instance.