Just about any soldering iron should work. Chisel tips are better than round tips for most work. I really like J tips as well, they’ve got a range of usable surface sizes without having to change tip just by turning the iron around.
Put a piece of heat shrink tubing on one wire.
Strip the ends, and form a Western Union splice in the wires to hold them.
Set the iron to 350°C, and let it heat up. If your iron doesn’t have temperature control, it’s cheap crap and should probably just be thrown in the trash since it’ll tend to over-heat and lift pads when soldering PCBs. Continue for now, that doesn’t matter as much for soldering wires.
Then apply a tiny bit of solder to the tip of the iron so that it can make good contact, apply flux to the bit where the wires join (do NOT skip flux), touch the solder to the wires, and then touch the iron to the other side of the wires. The solder should quickly melt & flow into the joint.
Remove the solder, then remove the iron.
Let the joint cool, then slide the heat shrink up over the joint and shrink it with a heat gun.
Crimp connectors tend to be stronger and more vibration-proof than solder, but sometimes space constraints mean that soldered splices are necessary. Also crimpers are expensive, for many wire-to-wire crimp families the official crimpers are several hundred dollars.
Mini-PV is the standard (in that DuPont used to make them), but the M20 clones are more common. It was created by Berg, who got bought out by DuPont, who spun those off to FCI and then that went to Amphenol decades ago. Then Harwin made their M20 connectors as a near clone of Mini-PV, but they aren’t a perfect fit with Mini-PV housings (and vice versa). M20 won’t fit in a Mini-PV housing, and Mini-PV will be loose in an M20 housing. Then tons of other manufacturers started cloning M20. Most cheap leads you get will be M20.
I tend to just make my own M20 jumpers since that lets me set the length. Mini-PV is necessary if you want more options for wire gauge or spring tension though.
Not directly, but they improve the low-power modes substantially, and using the low-power modes for longer times is the solution. Inverters aren’t strictly needed, but they do make it better.
I said nothing about safety. I just said it should be considered a different class of vehicle if it meets certain characteristics. SUTs are great for camping, for hauling surf boards & kayaks (possibly with a rack) and tow just as well as pickups. They don’t have a full-size bed, so they’re worse at most jobs, though the larger cab does mean they can carry more workers at once. It’s a trade-off: get worse at most work-related tasks, get better at personal tasks and thus reach a wider market.
At what point does it become ok to have an open bed?
When the distance from the back of the truck to the front of the bed is longer than the distance from the back of the cab to the front of the truck, it turns from a Sport Utility Truck into a Pickup Truck. Typically that’s around when the bed gets big enough to haul a sheet of plywood or drywall safely.
Of course it’s OK to have an SUT instead of a pickup truck, just not as useful for construction work.
People use computers to accplish tasks. That requires running software on an OS, but nobody runs software or an OS just to sit & watch it exist. They run it to accomplish tasks.
Different distros mostly vary in how easy it is to accomplish various tasks. No one distro is the easiest for everything, so people make different choices depending on their needs.
Threads (1984 BBC tv movie banned from rebroadcast for 40 years due to being too horrifying). It’s about the death of hope, and how all that remains after is to hope for death.
Edit: I’ve seen it once. That was enough, I never want to see it again.
Worth trying. It’s already broken, you can’t really make it much worse. It’d probably work, and worst case you’re back where you started & paying for expensive shipping.
We’ve had open-source chip design software since the 1980s. Magic VLSI, for example. There are quite a few OSS tools for various parts of the chip design process.
The SensePeek PCBite system is really nice. They're the best board holders I've ever used, very stable. Great for testing, and great for soldering. The probes are ridiculously helpful, it's downright easy to probe adjacent pins on a 0.5mm pitch QFP (with some magnification)! All rather expensive, but very, very worth it for the time saved.
Eh, as a weirdo who uses Celsius a lot but lives in Buffalo, NY…
-20s is cold. Coat, gloves, scarf, & hat. Long underwear. Not too much evaporation from the lake since it can freeze, so not much snow.
-10s is chilly. Coat, probably zip it up towards the lower end of the range. Decent chance of apocalyptic snow.
0-10s is cool. Wear a sweater.
10s is nice. Maybe consider long sleeves & pants if it gets a bit cooler.
20s is shorts & t-shirt weather.
30s is all AC, all the time. Uncomfortably hot not too far into the range.
40s is “the humidity is now so high the air is soup, filled with mosquitoes”.
No, they made an assertion, without statistics or raw data to back it up. How many replies do cross-posts get, compared to regular posts? What’s the mean? What’s the median? Does the distribution look Gaussian, and if so what’s the standard deviation.