Thank you for your suggestion. Is it really that easy to implement? So far the people I talked with irl told me otherwise, but I will look into it and judge myself whether I am up to the task.
Exactly, hard/easy depends on your background. It’s been almost 20 years since I worked with it, I’m sure there are ready made libraries or chips implementing 99% of the protocol these days.
Thank you for your suggestions. Rs-485 seems to be what I was looking for. CAN could also work, but is it reasonably implementable? So far everyone who I spoke with about CAN said that it is a rather complex protocol with a lots of finicky details and an extra long standard. Perhaps I have just talked to the wrong people. I will look into it more thoroughly, and thanks again.
Indeed, I was looking for a simpler and lower level protocol. Thanks for mentioning the network protocol anyway, because I have never heard of CoAP until now. It may come in handy in the future (or maybe for someone else reading the post).
Hmmm… It does tick a lot of the boxes, but the ethernet protocol is way too complex with all of its layers and not reasonably implementable on a low-power microcontroller. Also it requires separate hubs for connecting multiple devices together unlike i2c, which is daisy chainable.
I was ready to shit on this but I could definetely see some uses when there are a lot of through hole pins. I’d be a little worried about keeping the heat distribution even though.
I thought it might be useful to move the iron back and forth a little for long rows. Wouldn’t be perfectly even but would be better than concentrating heat in the center.
This trick might be more useful for people who are budget constrained. In the past I’ve resorted to cutting the plastic between the headers (making them unusable), so this is a nice alternative without the need for another tool. If budget wasn’t an issue I’d likely buy a much nicer iron and an extra wide knife-style tip.
Haha, I’ve done that too. However sometimes it rips the pads off or otherwise damages the vias. So instead I cut them along the other axis (parallel to the PCB), then remove the remaining nibs.
These days I mostly use a hot air rework station though. In my city this is integrated with many soldering stations on the market, for maybe an extra 10$. I think mine is Yihua brand, it’s quite OK.
Maybe I’m looking at the wrong thing, but I don’t see melted plastic. I see a collapsed bubble (a “fisheye”) in the conformal coating that is providing moisture resistance to the components.
They are 22ohm resistors. You can see they are resistor by the marking R on the pcb. The first two digit is the value (22), the last is the multiplier (0), so it would be 22*10^0 =22 ohm
I dont think the resistors are faulty but the design. Resistors (especially low-ish value 22Ohm ones) are meant to dissipate energy as heat. Putting them in a cramped housing made of plastic, then using them to dissipate high power is going to build up heat in there. There could also be another component faulty that puts too much current into the resistors. They are probably part of the balancing circuit.
As a resistor, there isn’t a forward or backwards. Diodes and some capacitors perhaps, but resistors have no forward or reverse bias. Upside down might be a problem because all the electrons will fall out. /s
You can replace it with any resistor with the same resistance and power rating. It may be easier to solder a larger through hole resistor onto the pads. I think other posters have figured it out, but you can search for resistor code information to decode it yourself. You can buy resistors lots of places, RadioShack was the go to place but I think hardware stores sometimes have them. If you’re not in a rush I recommend ordering a kit with a few different kinds.
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