As Altima said, it’s a 22ohm SMD resistor. You’ll need to measure it to get the package size.
Unfortunately resistors don’t really just burn out. If the resistor did cause damage from overheating, it’s because something drew too much current. My guess is there’s a short somewhere else, but there’s almost certainly more damage than that resistor.
Did you check if your city will take them? Sometimes you need to go a specific dropoff site but usually they have instructions for household hazardous material
That’s a good advice. I checked the process for my city. I had to go to the city office, and after I provide my proof of residence they would give me a voucher. I could then use that voucher to dispose any hazardous household waste at a designated waste collection center.
For my battery, I went to Batteries and Bulbs. They did not charge me anything, even returned my lipo bag.
My comment will not help you of any way. But I find it interesting that the current regulation in France (maybe Europe?) is that any store that sells electronics (and home appliance) has to take old electronics (and home appliance) for free.
Actually everybody pays a small fee when buying electronics. The tax changes regarding the difficulty to recycle the appliance. For example, the tax for a freezer is 13€ since you have to purge the gas, where it’s 1€ for a vacuum cleaner.
Call up your local Target, Walmart, Best Buy, or whatever equivalent you have in your area. They got battery recycling centers. Ask them how they want them delivered and what, if anything, they want done to the battery prior.
Not all Walmarts do that. I’m the electronics guy at Walmart and we definitely don’t at my location. The only kind of recycling we do is ink cartridges and the stupid little bin up front for plastic bags
How to dispose of a swollen battery: Once the battery has been removed, it needs to be safely disposed of. Do not throw batteries into trash or recycling bins. Do not put/store the battery in water. If the battery is warm, smelly or smoking, put it outside away from flammable materials, or in a fireproof container, and wait for the symptoms to dissipate. When safe, take the battery to a local e-waste collection site; refer to our e-waste page to find one in your area. Do not mail the battery to an e-waste processing facility—there are strict regulations against this as the battery could cause damage in transit. ifixit.com
Find a latching relay. I built something similar where I had a battery powered circuit that needed to be on for a long time. This is different than making a latching relay from a normal relay. A latching type relay uses a pulse. You send a short pulse down the line and it flops over. The datasheet will tell you the pulse width.
The trick is to keep soldering tip always wet from solder and only clean it just before you solder. Second, always when done soldering and you cool down you soldering iron, melt fresh solder on the soldering tip before it cools down.
As others have said, your pad is gone. If you’re struggling to expose the trace needed to solder, it might be easier to find out which one of those test points corresponds to the battery terminal and solder a wire to that instead.
Here’s a great resource I used to repair an Xbox one controller after destroying the pads in an attempt to replace an analogue stick.
You lost your pad. This usually happens if you have old PCBs which were exposed to some air humidity over time. The pad heats up and the moisture evaporates between the layers, separating the pad and the PCB base material. More heat increases the likelihood of that happening.
That part is unsolderable now. You need to connect at a different place and reconnect any interrupted traces or glue the pad back to the board, if you can.
Game controllers in general are very hard to repair since they contain large copper layers to withstand forces from the controls. It’s very common to loose pads or lift THT holes.
That said, most often nothing is ever beyond repair. It’s usually just a matter of skills and tools which are available.
To understand the original traces on each side of a circuit board, you can put a powerful flashlivht on the back to see through.
I can’t say if the hole is too wide and makes a short circuit with another close track.
Do you use flux ?
Have you cleaned the track with water on a coton tip ? (To remove battery leak) What kind of soldering wire do you use ? Shitty soldering iron does not stick.
I had the same issue with a circuit. Gently sanding and using flux solved my issue. But it was an ugly soldering. I am not proud of it. You are not alone.
awesome, I was struggling to figure out where tracers went, I’ll try the light trick.
I did try using flux, I tried cleaning it with a toothbrush dipped in isopropyl alcohol, but I’ll try water and bud tomorrow.
I think I’m using decent solder, I bought it from my local electronics store. It has no discernible branding but does contain a mixture which includes flux. My soldering iron is a fairly expensive one and has treated me well, but I don’t think I take good care of the tip.
I’ll try a sand as well tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice and encouragement :D
I can’t tell for sure, but it definitely looks like your pad is gone. If you have an exacto knife you can just gently scrape away the solder mask, find the trace, and solder to the trace.
Basically it’s broken right now. You can try and fix it and it will either work (yay) or not (so just like now) you have nothing to lose. Worst case you tried something new and learned things!!!
Hm, that’s an unusual issue! I don’t know off the top of my head, but I’ll ask a few questions that might help diagnose the problem.
What kind of soldering iron are you using? A soldering station, or a dollar store ‘firestarter’? Also the wattage? It should be printed on it somewhere.
What type of solder are you using? It’s electronics solder, right?
You’re not getting molten plastic on the soldering iron tip? That tends to ruin them pretty fast.
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