This actually is the broadest audience of those who watch YouTube. And it’s the same for me. I use private relay, incognito mode, a cookie less browser and still get shown about the same as you get, but more European-esque. Like some YouTuber cooking or whatever.
I’ve personally been using a apple watch series 2. See no need to upgrade it tells the time battery lasts a long time even after all these years of use and it can tell me my heart rate,play tappybird and I can listen to music on it I bought it used for £40 3 years ago complete with the box extra straps and a charger literally one of the best purchases I think I’ve ever made only compliant is that because the watch was manufactured in 2016 support dropped several years back and support for some applications such as audible has dropped which is a shame
This depends on how cold, and how physical the labor is. The more physical the labor is, the less you’re going to want to wear (in general), because movement and exercise is going to keep you warm.
But, here’s a basic guideline.
First, no cotton. Full stop. Cotton will absorb mater, and then loses it’s ability to keep you warm. Jeans are an absolute non-starter in really cold weather. Leather is okay, but absolutely must be oiled and sealed against water (I’ve been experimenting with a beeswax and neatsfoot oil combination that seems to penetrate pretty well when applied with heat, but that’s more work than most people want to do).
Second, layers. Generally speaking, you want a wicking layer right next to your skin, insulation layer(s), and a waterproof/windproof shell layer over everything. Polypropylene long underwear is the normal technical choice for a wicking layer, and you can get polypro sock liners and glove liners as well. Wool should be your go-to choice for insulation layers; it has the fairly unique property of keeping you warm even when it gets wet, particularly because it’s really hard to get wool ‘wet’ (because wool is hydrophobic). Gore-Tex is gold-standard shell material; it gives you some level of breathability (e.g., allows sweat to evaporate out) while preventing water from getting in and keeping the wind out. With a good shell, you should be able to open vents to cool yourself down if you get too warm (and definitely cool yourself down well before you start feeling sweaty!) Goose down is great at keeping you warm, but does lose it’s loft–and insulating properties–when it gets wet. Depending on what you’re doing, you may want abrasion-resistant panels on your shell layers, as Gore-Tex isn’t as durable as, e.g. 1000D nylon pack cloth.
For boots, the US military ‘Mickey Mouse’ boots are pretty great. They’re several layers of rubber sheet, with wool felt insulation. You want to get them sized up a little so that you can get a liner sock and full cushion wool hiking socks in. All leather ankle-height hiking boots (Sorrel used to be one of the top choices, I’m not so sure any more) with lots of oil/wax based sealants and gaiters is another good choice.
As far as hands go, the same basic principles apply; a lightweight liner, a heavier insulation, and a shell layer. Generally speaking, you want mittens rather than gloves. If you must have gloves, then shooting gloves or lobster claw gloves are better than gloves that separate all of the fingers.
You’ll also want a good scarf–again, wool–and a long hat or balaclava, covered by the hood of your shell layer. The downside to a balaclava over a hat is that if it’s cold enough, your breath will freeze in the balaclava, leaving you with icicles hanging on your face.
This is what I’ve worn when I’ve done multi-day camping trips in the mountains in -20F weather. I’ve made mistakes–like choosing boots with different insulation, which kept my feet wet for three days straight–and the mistakes were painful. Poor footwear choices when bicycling at -20F has meant that I’ve had frostbite in my feet–not severe, thankfully, but incredibly painful as they thawed out.
EDIT As a final note - avoid anything that’s really constricting. Your wicking layer should be against your skin, but not tight. Anything that restrict blood flow is going to be a risk to developing frostbite. Shoes that are comfortable without heavy socks are going to be too tight with them. Depending on what you’re doing, you may need to make compromises. For instance, if you’re doing roofing, you’re probably going to have to get cotton, because that’s what Carhartt is available in, and you probably don’t want to be wearing $500 Gore-Tex shell pants for that.
Finding stuff for roofing in the winter sucks. My boss swears by blacklader pants, they even have kneepad inserts. Wear layers under your pants. Long John’s and or fleece pants will keep you warm. Gloves are also super hard to find, or hard to find ones cheap (and warm) enough you don’t mind destroying.
I follow all of your rules, but let cotton be my top layer sometimes, as it is fairly cut resistant (we do standing seam). As for boots, muck boots seem to be warm enough and give you good traction on a panel/ underlayment.
I also bring hand warmers in case my hands start to get too cold. Also some people use the Milwaukee sweatshirt that is heated/battery powered as a mid layer. It may reduce too many bulky layers.
If it’s really cold I’ll do 3-4 layers. Typically for my legs I’ll do Long John’s, then a pair of sweats, then my jeans.
For my torso I’ll also use a Long John shirt, then a long sleeve sweatshirt, then a hoodie, then a Carhartt jacket. Also, always take a few extra pairs of socks, if you’re feet get wet from sweat, they’ll get very cold as soon as you slow down or take a break.
I’ll add a quick point that might not be obvious. There are actually three things you’ll need to consider: a domain name, hosting, and your content.
TL;DR: for a simple blog-ish site, I would recommend DreamHost shared starter plan (USD$84 per year after promotions end, includes a custom domain name) and use GetSimple as the basis for your site (which can be installed from the DreamHost panel). Email costs a little more though.
A domain name typically costs less than USD$20 per year, with some top-level domains (like .online or .xyz) being only a few dollars per year. There are lots of ways to set up a site with a free subdomain (yoursite.hostingprovider.com) if cost is a barrier, but buying your own makes for a shorter and cleaner website name, and you can take it with you if you want to change your hosting. Most companies that offer domain registration will offer hosting as well, and they sometimes bundle them (a low-cost plan on DreamHost includes one domain name for free). Owning your own domain name usually means you have more options for setting up email as well.
For hosting, there are lots of free and easy options that others have mentioned (github pages, etc). Typical low-cost plans from many dedicated hosting companies are around USD$5 per month. Paying for hosting gives you more options for what you can do with your site–if you want WordPress, for example, github pages won’t be a hosting option. I’ve had a great experience with DreamHost, and BlueHost is a solid option as well.
Finally, generating the pages is its own challenge, and there are some wildly different ways of doing it. As others mentioned, I would avoid anything with a database if you can (WordPress being the big one). If you want a blog-ish type of site, I recommend GetSimple (I’ve had a few non-technical friends who were very happy with it). Or you can use a static site generator, though the workflow for many of those is often not as easy in my experience. Or if you’re feeling plucky, you can write the pages in HTML, CSS, and JS, and/or throw some PHP in there. I use skeleton for my site.
I had the James Bond edition of Sony Ericsson C902. The camera was nice but the UI had frame rate issues. I came from a brown SE K770i which was buttery smooth. From C902 I went to Sony Ericsson Xperia X10, my first touchscreen phone and first Android where I learned about apps, OS updates, fustom ROMs, etc. What a fantastic phone that was.
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