The only way I can think of is to disable the built-in updates, and set up time based shortcuts and have them do an if on wifi then trigger home assistant app sensor updates.
The way I’d structure it is a normal shortcut that you run from as many time-based shortcuts as you want to create (so you can reuse it easily). You can check the network name you’re connected to and only run if it matches your home network.
Cannot really answer your questions but if you ever swap to z2m and you keep the exact same friendly name you are using in zha, automations won’t need to be updated. I know it would be still a pain to re-pair but z2m is better than zha, so you will gain in the long term.
Couldn’t agree more. ZHA is supposed to be more simple to use, but if one is already using HA it’s not going to be long before they reach its limits. Zigbee2MQTT has better device support and more features. While the basic setup may be a little bit more complicated than ZHA you get the benefits mentioned earlier, and you don’t really need to understand all of its functionality from the start - you can learn as you go.
I like this thermostat except for one issue. When i manually change the target temperature with the HA thermostat card, it has a maximum temperature of 40 degrees. With Fahrenheit, this is obviously no good. it has something to do with the MQTT configuration but i cant figure it out. Luckily service calls in automations work fine.
Hey I got one too! I took it apart and repainted it black to match.
For temp schedules I made a local calendar in HA with repeating events with a description of “high” “mid” and “low”. The automation trigger is a calender event that reads the description and sets the temp accordingly
Can patch but it’ll be 1-2 days of work for a good painted finish. Would have to do multiple patching/sanding coats, masking, priming then a couple of rolls of paint of the wall. It’s not trivial amount of work. For a slap-dash finish I could skip some of the steps but then again for a slap-dash look I can keep the wall plates. 😅
I wish I could figure out the code to get my T6 to control the Confortotal mini split I got off eBay. I have to think they’re using some genetic code base, but I couldn’t find a matching one.
My setup is a bit different but I had a lot of fun putting it together. I have a D1 mini with a switch hat wired into the boiler.
The D1 runs a tiny web server that lets me turn the heating on and off. Then I have a bunch of ZigBee thermostats around the house that provide a fuzzy average temperature.
Then I have a custom dash in hass that displays pretty much what a hive would display.
Whole setup cost about $20 and has been running nonstop for over 5 years!
I got a Google Nest E thermostat off eBay from a charity shop for £12 and wired it in to where my old dumb dial thermostat was.
My ZigBee thermostats are just my ZigBee motion and door sensors that also have a temperature element.
I turned off the Nest smarts in Nest, and had HA come up with average temperatures for the whole house using the ZigBee things, then recreates the smarts in HA.
The Nest E smarts stopped working 6 months later but the heat link still worked, so I bought another off eBay for £20 and paired that.
I am gonna just get some ZigBee temp sensors at some point, but this works well enough for now.
Yeah, I suppose one could do a generic thermostat in HA and use just a few smart switches. However that requires some rewiring of the previously thermostat-controlled device.
In my previous house, the v1 prototype was wired straight to the boiler as there was no previous thermostat. In the current house, the v2 is wired to the Honeywell, so one can override the other as they are in parallel.
It was pretty finnicky stuff and I had to scour the internet for decade old wiring guides, but I like that sort of thing so it was good fun.
Every solution is a good solution if it makes your life easy and you have fun installing it!
I’ve got a T6 Z-Wave also, controlling a 2-stage heat pump. I have it connected to HA through Zwave2mqtt. It’s been pretty great except for two things:
A. Changing the time has no effect, as if the clock is read-only due to a hardware issue. I’ve had to set up the daily schedule in HA instead, but it’s probably better that way anyway.
B. I can’t see the stage and aux heat status in HA. Looks like all it exposes is a ‘heating’ or ‘cooling’ state. Anybody know how to get more info?
If it’s anything like my setup (posted in the thread) they’ll have a colder spot in the house, whereas the thermostat is in a warm part of the house.
My Nest heats to 22 degrees C but the whole house temp is a couple degrees lower than that.
When the whole house temp hits 20 the heating is switched off, but looking at the thermostat you’d think we’re heating the house to a silly temp, when in fact there’s a disparity between the thermostat temp and the temp of the whole house.
No, it really is 25° in the two rooms this unit heats up. 🦎
With that said, the temperature rarely falls below 25°C due to the heat coming off of the neighbouring units in the building, unless I open the window. 🥹
This has been my favorite thermostat. I don’t have a C wire nor an easy to add one in, but it’s AA batteries last for several months and has been very reliable.
It’s what I use as well — my home was built with a Honeywell Lyric T5 (non-smart), so the wiring harness between the two is identical (including colour), so I just unplugged the T5 and plugged in the T6, did some setup, and it was done.
They definitely are repeaters. I had issues with a Moe’s ZigBee dimmer. It turned out it was relaying off of an IKEA bulb. When that lamp got turned off at the switch, it killed the link. I ended up using a smart plug as a repeater.
I second this statement. Most of my bulbs are IKEA. I have 4 floors and my ZigBee dongle is on the ground. If they weren’t repeaters, my Aqara motion sensors wouldn’t be working, but they do!
Interesting… are you using Zigbee2MQTT? Because i am on ZHA and looking at my network visualization none of my aqara devices connect to the IKEA bulbs. Only other IKEA bulbs connect to them in my case.
I have some temperature sensors from aqara, some movement sensors and some multi buttons and they didn’t connect to them. I had to buy some smart-plugs to act as repeaters.
Z2M, and it was definitely routing via the bulb. The ZigBee dimmer unit couldn’t reach the coordinator directly (I might have mounted it in a metal wall box, with a metal front plate). It was connecting to the bulb and working fine however. When the bulb was off, the dimmer completely lost connectivity.
It might only be some of their bulbs, but they can definitely act as repeaters.
I remember having constant disconnects with my several aqara devices when i only had a path of bulbs to connect to. Those bulbs have constant power and are not turned off.
And when checking ZHA visualization i saw that they don’t connect to the bulbs but rather tried to connect directly to my stick but only got minimal connection because of the distance. No matter what i tried, they would not connect to the bulbs
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