homeassistant

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friend_of_satan, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install

Yo dawg, I heard you like wall plates.

orion2145, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install

The three layers of backplates hurts me.

lightrush,
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Gotta hide the drywall horror show the HVAC people left. 😅

orion2145,

Totally understand. I came back for mine, cleaned it all up, patched, painted and lost all back plating. But again, I totally feel your pain.

lightrush,
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Some day! :D

CondorWonder, in How do you get the top bar?

It’s called Badges - edit the dashboard page, then click on the edit button beside the tab.

sabreW4K3,
@sabreW4K3@lemmy.tf avatar

Thank you!

ThrustyRL,

Do either of you know what entity is being used for weather? I use openweathermap for my weather entities, but none of them provide a nice image of the weather like in the picture above

CondorWonder,

Maybe a template sensor over the openweathermap_forecast_condition state? You can pretty easily have a template change its icon, and mdi: has all the icons built in.

Here’s a template I use for current condition in a card, but it should work similarly for the forecast. Or works just need to be applied to the icon of a template sensor.


<span style="color:#323232;">{{ iif(
</span><span style="color:#323232;">        is_state("weather.openweathermap", "partlycloudy"), "mdi:weather-partly-cloudy", 
</span><span style="color:#323232;">        iif(is_state("weather.openweathermap", "clear-night"), "mdi:weather-night",
</span><span style="color:#323232;">        iif(is_state("weather.openweathermap", "exceptional"), "mdi:exclamation-thick",
</span><span style="color:#323232;">        "mdi:weather-" + states("weather.openweathermap"
</span><span style="color:#323232;">        )))) }}
</span>
sabreW4K3,
@sabreW4K3@lemmy.tf avatar

If you go into your HA, open up the integrations panel and it should list all the entities

Thcdenton, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install

25°. Lizard man confirmed.

keefshape,

Right? I started sweating as soon as I saw the temp in the pic.

Marsupial,
@Marsupial@quokk.au avatar

Sweating over a barmy 25?

Lifebandit666,

If it’s anything like my setup (posted in the thread) they’ll have a colder spot in the house, whereas the thermostat is in a warm part of the house.

My Nest heats to 22 degrees C but the whole house temp is a couple degrees lower than that.

When the whole house temp hits 20 the heating is switched off, but looking at the thermostat you’d think we’re heating the house to a silly temp, when in fact there’s a disparity between the thermostat temp and the temp of the whole house.

lightrush, (edited )
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

No, it really is 25° in the two rooms this unit heats up. 🦎

With that said, the temperature rarely falls below 25°C due to the heat coming off of the neighbouring units in the building, unless I open the window. 🥹

peter, in Low cost Zigbee GU10s via Ikea (UK)
@peter@feddit.uk avatar

Ikea makes some of the best smart home stuff IMO. Really well built, decently priced and no stupid lock in or cloud only stuff.

RandomLegend,
@RandomLegend@lemmy.dbzer0.com avatar

Every single bulb in my home is from IKEA and i was really happy with how easily they are to be integrated.

Sadly they aren’t repeaters for the regular zigbee network, only for other IKEA devices.

cynar,

They definitely are repeaters. I had issues with a Moe’s ZigBee dimmer. It turned out it was relaying off of an IKEA bulb. When that lamp got turned off at the switch, it killed the link. I ended up using a smart plug as a repeater.

Lifebandit666,

I second this statement. Most of my bulbs are IKEA. I have 4 floors and my ZigBee dongle is on the ground. If they weren’t repeaters, my Aqara motion sensors wouldn’t be working, but they do!

RandomLegend, (edited )
@RandomLegend@lemmy.dbzer0.com avatar

Interesting… are you using Zigbee2MQTT? Because i am on ZHA and looking at my network visualization none of my aqara devices connect to the IKEA bulbs. Only other IKEA bulbs connect to them in my case.

I have some temperature sensors from aqara, some movement sensors and some multi buttons and they didn’t connect to them. I had to buy some smart-plugs to act as repeaters.

cynar,

Z2M, and it was definitely routing via the bulb. The ZigBee dimmer unit couldn’t reach the coordinator directly (I might have mounted it in a metal wall box, with a metal front plate). It was connecting to the bulb and working fine however. When the bulb was off, the dimmer completely lost connectivity.

It might only be some of their bulbs, but they can definitely act as repeaters.

RandomLegend,
@RandomLegend@lemmy.dbzer0.com avatar

Interesting.

I remember having constant disconnects with my several aqara devices when i only had a path of bulbs to connect to. Those bulbs have constant power and are not turned off.

And when checking ZHA visualization i saw that they don’t connect to the bulbs but rather tried to connect directly to my stick but only got minimal connection because of the distance. No matter what i tried, they would not connect to the bulbs

barbarosa,
@barbarosa@lemmy.world avatar

Anyway to check this via the HA dashboard?

vividspecter,

Bulbs don’t usually work well as repeaters anyway. Their smart plugs tend to work well, although I wish they had power monitoring support.

RandomLegend,
@RandomLegend@lemmy.dbzer0.com avatar

The aqara plugs do have power monitoring but afaik it’s borked with ZHA unless you write your own quirks file…

GlitzyArmrest, in Can anyone recommend a wireless doorbell that works with home assistant?
@GlitzyArmrest@lemmy.world avatar

Reolink has a wifi video doorbell that works great, it has an integration with Home Assistant but also with Frigate. I use Frigate personally, since it’s better at person detection and I can record directly to my server. If you don’t use Frigate, you can record to an SD card that you slot into the back of the doorbell.

cynar,

I would also note they have a PoE version as well. It’s quite handy to minimise congestion on your WiFi, and not have to worry about batteries.

Both work well with various home automation systems.

Buelldozer,
@Buelldozer@lemmy.today avatar

2nd the Reolink. I have one, works well with HA.

Jakor,

4th vote for Reolink, with one caveat: the live video feed takes several minutes to load in home assistant for me, but is pretty instant when viewing through the Reolink app. I’ve spent several evenings trying to get it to load faster without luck, so for now I’m content just using the Reolink app.

GenitalHurricane,

3rd. Reolink working great with HA

DeltaTangoLima,
@DeltaTangoLima@reddrefuge.com avatar

Yeah, this is the answer. I don’t have a Reolink doorbell, but I have their PoE cameras with Frigate and HA, and they work perfectly.

roofuskit, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install

You know, you don’t have to use the wall plate just because it’s in the box.

ipha, (edited ) in ZigBee RGB Lightbulb w/o 3rd party app

Hue bulbs works with home assistant without relying on the hue bridge or app. Just need a zigbee USB adapter.

Ikea also makes some decent bulbs for a fraction of the price.

guttermonk,
@guttermonk@lemmy.ml avatar

Thanks for the suggestions. Do the IKEA bulbs work with HA out of the box or do they need an IKEA app?

static128, (edited )

I’m using both IKEA and Hue bulbs without having used any of the original apps/hubs (though I do use the deCONZ/Phoscon hub addon, not the Home Assistant ZHA but if you’re device is listed as compatible the experience should be the same.

Edit: apparently you can re-pair without a remote, see below comment: One thing to note about the Hue bulbs (without a Hue hub) is that you need one of the remotes to reset bulbs after already being paired so they can be re-paired to a hub, where as the IKEA only need the power turned off and on a number of times to enter pairing mode.

jgkawell,
@jgkawell@lemmy.world avatar

I actually ran into this just the other day on some refurbished Hue bulbs. I was able to reset then without any remote or app using this method. Just make sure to do it 2-3 times in a row or until the bulbs start flashing.

static128,

Thanks for the heads up

ipha,

They just work.

Lifebandit666,

I use bulbs I’ve bought from IKEA and Lidl. Because they’re ZigBee they’re local. The "Hub’ is HA because I have a ZigaZiga electrolama.com/projects/zig-a-zig-ah/ usb stick.

I use ZigBee2MQTT in HA to route commands to my bulbs (and sensors and plugs) which routes ZigBee commands through my MQTT broker which is also in HA.

The only app I use is the Home Assistant app

AreaKode, in Home Assistant 2024.1: Happy automating!

I love the automation screen updates. Makes it all a bit less “techie”. I’ve been assisting my non-technical sister with setting up her own instance on a Pi. This is going to make things much easier for to understand.

avidamoeba, in Home Assistant 2024.1: Happy automating!
@avidamoeba@lemmy.ca avatar

https://lemmy.ca/pictrs/image/a10f515b-2d24-416d-bbe3-e1c805567024.jpeg

And mine starts with the addition of Z-Wave to my Yellow in preparation for automating a thermostat! 🥹

ANIMATEK, in HA redundancy options

You may wanna look at Kubernetes. It’s basically docker with failover.

scrubbles,
@scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech avatar

Correct, OPs needs is describing what kubernetes was made for. Fault tolerant container orchestration. Or any other orchestration framework.

However it’s a best to learn and get set up. Migrating all of my containers over took a couple of months of learning and trial and error. Each person has to decide is that level of effort worth it in a home application

Cyber, (edited )

Ok, but that’s assuming >1 host can be managed that way… can I manage HA on the Pi3 as a backup to my new host with Kubernetes?

Edit: can Proxmox do this too?

scrubbles,
@scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech avatar

You’ll need to learn a lot more about kubernetes to decide fully if you want to do it. I’m more or less telling you that yes there are ways to keep it highly available, but they’re going to be literally 10x if not more the amount of effort to spin up and probably maintain.

Proxmox has their own flavor of HA that is a lower level of virtualization. They’ll be able to failover a specific VM/CT to another node if one fails, but again pros and cons. The major annoyance for both is where do you put your data so 2 separate nodes can access it? Both k8s and proxmox have different approaches.

c10l,

K8s and Proxmox operate at different levels. You can run k8s on Proxmox, and that’s what I’ve been (very slowly) building up to at home.

With Proxmox you can failover VMs between nodes as long as storage (including VM boot disk) is external to the nodes. This can be NFS on a NAS, iSCSI, Ceph or many other options.

It’s even possible to failover a USB device (e.g. a Zigbee controller or similar) by attaching one on each node and mapping them using Resource Mappings (search on the announcement post: proxmox.com/…/proxmox-virtual-environment-8-0).

This can also be used if you’re deploying k8s on top of Proxmox just as well.

Cyber,

Ah, ok, thanks… I’ll have to dig in to this some more

halfwaythere, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install

Too bad the damned thing is so hideous.

lightrush, (edited )
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Huh, I really like how it looks, besides the large wall plate. 😅

DeltaTangoLima,
@DeltaTangoLima@reddrefuge.com avatar

Is there a particular reason you used the wall plate? Was there a larger hole to cover up?

lightrush,
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Yup. HVAC installer drywall gore.

DeltaTangoLima,
@DeltaTangoLima@reddrefuge.com avatar

I feel your pain. That stuff really shits me.

Trollception,

Patching drywall isn’t really that bad. It’s pretty bad with those plates. Watch some YouTube videos and learn.

lightrush, (edited )
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Can patch but it’ll be 1-2 days of work for a good painted finish. Would have to do multiple patching/sanding coats, masking, priming then a couple of rolls of paint of the wall. It’s not trivial amount of work. For a slap-dash finish I could skip some of the steps but then again for a slap-dash look I can keep the wall plates. 😅

ripcord,

And it really doesn’t look that bad, in the scheme of things.

cosmic_slate, in Another successful Honeywell T6 install
@cosmic_slate@dmv.social avatar

This has been my favorite thermostat. I don’t have a C wire nor an easy to add one in, but it’s AA batteries last for several months and has been very reliable.

Yaztromo,

It’s what I use as well — my home was built with a Honeywell Lyric T5 (non-smart), so the wiring harness between the two is identical (including colour), so I just unplugged the T5 and plugged in the T6, did some setup, and it was done.

lightrush, (edited )
@lightrush@lemmy.ca avatar

Does it keep its settings while you swap the batteries?

__init__, in Building from scratch
  1. Network cables everywhere. Way easier to do that before drywalling if that’s something you want.
  2. Neutrals in your switch boxes will make smart switches easier later. Though I heard that might be a code requirement for new construction anyway?
  3. Also heard oversize switch boxes are a thing, which will also make smart switches easier later (assuming price difference is negligible).
sabreW4K3, in Can anyone recommend a wireless doorbell that works with home assistant?
@sabreW4K3@lemmy.tf avatar

Reolink all the way

JustMy2c,

2 way audio is pretty basic requirement…

sabreW4K3,
@sabreW4K3@lemmy.tf avatar
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