Take a look at zigbee2mqtt this is what I use to add any of my ZigBee devices to home assistant. You may find there is more frequent reporting/polling with this so you have more updated information in your home assistant instance.
ZigBee is the way to go IMO for the most “local control”. Your thermostat is probably pretty good and would not need replacing for a long time.
For automation of your thermostat and other items in the house you will need to setup your own automations that work for you. Home assistant won’t do this for you automatically like other 3rd party thermostats that “learn” your patterns.
Home assistant is pretty powerful in what you can do with automation as it’s allows you to use other sensors around the house, even poll outside stats like weather. So in theory you can set automations that turn off your heathing if your phone or all phones have left the house. You can set automations that turn on the heathing when the outside temperature reaches a certain temperature and the house temperature drops to a certain point.
I definitely recommend zigbee2mqtt over ZHA. I originally went with ZHA and just recently went through the hassle of converting over. It was worth it. IMO, it’s best to just start with zigbee2mqtt, and to convert before you have a lot of devices and automations.
Edit: before I posted this comment, I couldn’t see any comments other than the one I was responding to.
I should add you need to install Mqtt broker from the addin store as well.
Once you get this installed under integrations you should see Mqtt and this is where your new ZigBee devices will be listed. (As opposed to the ZigBee integration)
No need to hard reset the thermostat as once you add it through zigbee2mqtt and get mqtt integration added the device will be new to your HA installation.
Odd I have done the full setup several times As I run pure dockers / separate HA, Mosquito MQTT and Zigbee2mqtt and the devices all just auto discover and appear in HA has devices with entities with full control.
The hot water pipe to the kitchen is quite long. We have a pipe loop there with a pump. Back in the days we had an ordinary timer that let the pump run at the usual times when there is hot water demand to be expected.
I now use a Zigbee plug for the pump and added a button in the kitchen to start it manually. In addidion HA starts it in the morning and every time when somebody comes home. Another HA automation turns off the pump after 3 minutes and ensures that it does not start again for 30 minutes.
Not really common automation for HA, but I made medication assistant automations. Its super helpfull for people who take loads of meds. It tracks how many pills left, does android notifications or sets alarm and it also sends an email when its time to reorder meds. Its insane how usefull it is
I have a binary sensor that turns on when I’m away from home for 30 minutes and off when I’m home for 5 minutes. When I open the door and the sensor is on, music starts playing and the living room lights turn on. Love it.
It’d be a lot easier to work with more conventional hardware.
First of all you downloaded the wrong version, your device is not amd64 but arm64. OSMC for Vero provides an img, so you can install an OS like you would on a raspberry pi. Though you’d probably have to make your own image since afaik it’s not really an rpi?
You can probably run hass in docker or install hass core instead.
I tried the hass route instead, but can’t get it to work due to dependency issues once I try to install the supervisor package. Even though the aarch64 OS agent seems to install without issue. I’m tired of getting it to work.
I have managed to install HASS on a Mac mini m1 through a Debian vm in UTM, that is serving its introduction purposes right now. Likely I will end up getting a home assistant Green at some point, but I don’t find the price that appealing for what it is. Or I need to shell out even more for a n100 mini pc.
Awesome thanks for the advice. Id seen conflicting info on zwave vs zigbee for switches. One of the main things was wifi interference, but i live in a remote place and dont have a ton of wifi devices or outside interference. Also ill most likely be running a ubiquiti ap cause i use ubiquiti at work and am comfortable with it. Should be super solid.
Adding another vote on the inovelli blues. Zigbee network has been rock solid for me. Integration with homeassistant has been flawless too - could not be happier with my purchase. It also helps that the company has a great track record with transparency and working with the community to improve their product.
One detail I don’t see mentioned often is the zigbee switches are a little smaller than the zwaves, making them easier to fit into the junction box. My house is old and has very small boxes - not sure these would have fit in some places if they were any bigger!!
I’ve got a T6 Z-Wave also, controlling a 2-stage heat pump. I have it connected to HA through Zwave2mqtt. It’s been pretty great except for two things:
A. Changing the time has no effect, as if the clock is read-only due to a hardware issue. I’ve had to set up the daily schedule in HA instead, but it’s probably better that way anyway.
B. I can’t see the stage and aux heat status in HA. Looks like all it exposes is a ‘heating’ or ‘cooling’ state. Anybody know how to get more info?
I run HA as a container in a vm. I back HA data up nightly and the compose script for running HA is archived on github. If the vm dies there is another vm that can bring it back up. If the host dies (I have a pool of xenserver (xcp-ng) hosts, so it would be a major domestic disaster if they all croaked) I have a fallback to run HA on docker on wsl. If the house burns down all the scripts are on GitHub and the backups get sent to Azure monthly. I think I’m covered.
I’ve been messing around with the MR60FDA1 60GHz mmWave detector in esphome and Home Assistant. Unfortunately it has the same 6m range and 60° field of view you’re looking to get around.
I will say, though, that within range the sensor is quite responsive, and detects static presents quite well. The high frequency gives it sufficient resolution to detect micro movements like fidgeting, looking around or even breathing. My module has fall detection on board, purportedly to sense if a detected person is standing or laying down. Another version supposedly can detect respiration and heartbeet within a couple of meters.
The good thing about 60Ghz is they tend not to interfere with each other, so several units could be arranged with overlapping fields of view.
I’m pairing mine with a PIR module for rapid detection, and to help eliminate false positives on radar hits since radar can see through walls, and doesn’t necessarily expose the distance to the target in esphome.
The 24GHz models have a longer range up to 12m and may have 360° fields of view, but have lower resolution and ranging for micro motions. In the US, they are being phased out for potential interference with aviation though I can’t speak for other countries.
Andreas Speiss posted a good video on YouTube that covered a bunch of different models (link below) that I thought was informative. It will.lead you to some other similar content that might help you to assess your needs and match a product to your application.
I looked further into my assertion that 24GHz radar was being phased out, since something was bothering me about it. It seems 24 GHz Ultra Wide Band (UWB) applications are no longer approved, but 24GHz Industrial, Scientific & Medical (ISM) applications are still approved. Home use of 24GHz radar would be considered ISM, so there is probably no restriction on its use.
Interference never though about that good to know might go 60ghz then and get 3 for 180 degree coverage. Also they can look through walls? Also trough wood or concrete or only the american paper walls? As this would be amazing for my hallway where there is a staircase kind of in the way.
Also what do you mean by fast detection are the radars not enough for someone walking by?
Interference and crosstalk: Both 24GHz and 60FHz mods are tolerant of other emitters in their field of view, so you could pair two of them in the outside corner of your ell, looking towards the ends and a third at the long end of the ell looking back towards the corner and they ought not to interfere. Another possible configuration would be three ceiling mounted emitters looking down, overlapping the fields of view for full coverage of the floor area. A 60° field of view at 2.8m gives you roughly a 5m radius of detection on the floor.
Seeing through walls: “Thin walls” attenuate the signal, but allow enough penetration to detect people through cover. The radar can penetrate thin plastic housings, plexiglass, cloth, drywall, wood paneling, and thin plaster & lath. It cannot penetrate glass, stone, or metal. Same goes for floors. My radar module will detect people in the unfinished room below my home office through the hardwood floor if I angle it down far enough.
Fast detection: I found that while the radar was responsive even to small movement nearly instantly, it takes up to 2 or 3 seconds to acquire and classify a target as a person. Once t locks on, it pretty reliably tracks the person for as long as they are in view. In practice, a person walking into the edge of the field of view at a normal walking pace could cover half the field before they are detected as present. It “feels” a bit slow compared to PIR detection which is sub-second in most cases, but generates a lot of false positives. The technique I am refining is to position the the radar to detect a person entering a room by angling the radar field of view to “lead lead target” and use the PIR to determine the target has moved into a zone where I want action to take place. In essence, I want the lights to trip on when the radar detects human presence AND the PIR sees a hot blob. Then I kick on the light and wait for the human presence detection to go back to unoccupied for 5 minutes before turning off the light. I might also experiment to see if ultrasonic detection is any more reliable than IR, since it wouldn’t be fooled by warm/cold draughts, or by sudden changes in light as from dappled shade or clouds & sun. My concern is I have pets and wouldn’t want to stress them with sound I can’t hear, but maybe they can. Need to research it more.
Its been fun playing with this stuff, but I might note that at this point you can just buy an open platform (as in open source) esphome/HA compatible multisensor presence detector made by the guy who does the Everything Smart Home channel on YouTube. He posted a couple videos talking about it (links below). For me, this is just messing around with something I always wanted to play with, but I’ll probably just buy a kit when I want to hang something functional on a ceiling or wall.
Definitely check out the videos I linked. They’re excellent for helping to understand the pros and cons of this tech in real-world smart home applications.
Everything Smart Home - Building my own smart ho e oresense sensor
Thanks for your reply it really helps the video’s you linked I already found. and found that they where really helpful for understanding. Together with your experience I am probably going to experiment a little to(I like to make my own stuff to so not looking nice is less of a concern as long as it works). Thanks for explaining the few details I didn’t understand. I feel like they are a perfect tool for presence detection that together with something else are exactly what I need. Once again thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge
Rachio is supposed to have a local API coming soon. The Smart Hose hardware is great quality and I’m happy with their app in the meantime. Waiting to see how they open the integration before I commit heavily.
When I did my in floor heating in the master bathroom I went through something similar regarding the zones.
My goal was to be able to control a zone for the shower and a zone for the floor tiles everywhere else independently of one another.
Two separate lines are run in these areas under the floor to one two zone thermostat, on a dedicated line to my breaker panel. From what I found out during my process is that a two zone thermostat controls both zones at the same time.
I could not find any thermostat control panel that controls two lines independently and figured if I ever do a whole home in floor heating system each room would need its own thermostat.
Plus side to a two zone thermostat in a room is if one of the cables is cut in a remodel the other zone still functions.
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