If it’s anything like my setup (posted in the thread) they’ll have a colder spot in the house, whereas the thermostat is in a warm part of the house.
My Nest heats to 22 degrees C but the whole house temp is a couple degrees lower than that.
When the whole house temp hits 20 the heating is switched off, but looking at the thermostat you’d think we’re heating the house to a silly temp, when in fact there’s a disparity between the thermostat temp and the temp of the whole house.
No, it really is 25° in the two rooms this unit heats up. 🦎
With that said, the temperature rarely falls below 25°C due to the heat coming off of the neighbouring units in the building, unless I open the window. 🥹
Do either of you know what entity is being used for weather? I use openweathermap for my weather entities, but none of them provide a nice image of the weather like in the picture above
Maybe a template sensor over the openweathermap_forecast_condition state? You can pretty easily have a template change its icon, and mdi: has all the icons built in.
Here’s a template I use for current condition in a card, but it should work similarly for the forecast. Or works just need to be applied to the icon of a template sensor.
They definitely are repeaters. I had issues with a Moe’s ZigBee dimmer. It turned out it was relaying off of an IKEA bulb. When that lamp got turned off at the switch, it killed the link. I ended up using a smart plug as a repeater.
I second this statement. Most of my bulbs are IKEA. I have 4 floors and my ZigBee dongle is on the ground. If they weren’t repeaters, my Aqara motion sensors wouldn’t be working, but they do!
Interesting… are you using Zigbee2MQTT? Because i am on ZHA and looking at my network visualization none of my aqara devices connect to the IKEA bulbs. Only other IKEA bulbs connect to them in my case.
I have some temperature sensors from aqara, some movement sensors and some multi buttons and they didn’t connect to them. I had to buy some smart-plugs to act as repeaters.
Z2M, and it was definitely routing via the bulb. The ZigBee dimmer unit couldn’t reach the coordinator directly (I might have mounted it in a metal wall box, with a metal front plate). It was connecting to the bulb and working fine however. When the bulb was off, the dimmer completely lost connectivity.
It might only be some of their bulbs, but they can definitely act as repeaters.
I remember having constant disconnects with my several aqara devices when i only had a path of bulbs to connect to. Those bulbs have constant power and are not turned off.
And when checking ZHA visualization i saw that they don’t connect to the bulbs but rather tried to connect directly to my stick but only got minimal connection because of the distance. No matter what i tried, they would not connect to the bulbs
Reolink has a wifi video doorbell that works great, it has an integration with Home Assistant but also with Frigate. I use Frigate personally, since it’s better at person detection and I can record directly to my server. If you don’t use Frigate, you can record to an SD card that you slot into the back of the doorbell.
4th vote for Reolink, with one caveat: the live video feed takes several minutes to load in home assistant for me, but is pretty instant when viewing through the Reolink app. I’ve spent several evenings trying to get it to load faster without luck, so for now I’m content just using the Reolink app.
I’m using both IKEA and Hue bulbs without having used any of the original apps/hubs (though I do use the deCONZ/Phoscon hub addon, not the Home Assistant ZHA but if you’re device is listed as compatible the experience should be the same.
Edit: apparently you can re-pair without a remote, see below comment: One thing to note about the Hue bulbs (without a Hue hub) is that you need one of the remotes to reset bulbs after already being paired so they can be re-paired to a hub, where as the IKEA only need the power turned off and on a number of times to enter pairing mode.
I actually ran into this just the other day on some refurbished Hue bulbs. I was able to reset then without any remote or app using this method. Just make sure to do it 2-3 times in a row or until the bulbs start flashing.
I use bulbs I’ve bought from IKEA and Lidl. Because they’re ZigBee they’re local. The "Hub’ is HA because I have a ZigaZiga electrolama.com/projects/zig-a-zig-ah/ usb stick.
I use ZigBee2MQTT in HA to route commands to my bulbs (and sensors and plugs) which routes ZigBee commands through my MQTT broker which is also in HA.
I love the automation screen updates. Makes it all a bit less “techie”. I’ve been assisting my non-technical sister with setting up her own instance on a Pi. This is going to make things much easier for to understand.
Correct, OPs needs is describing what kubernetes was made for. Fault tolerant container orchestration. Or any other orchestration framework.
However it’s a best to learn and get set up. Migrating all of my containers over took a couple of months of learning and trial and error. Each person has to decide is that level of effort worth it in a home application
You’ll need to learn a lot more about kubernetes to decide fully if you want to do it. I’m more or less telling you that yes there are ways to keep it highly available, but they’re going to be literally 10x if not more the amount of effort to spin up and probably maintain.
Proxmox has their own flavor of HA that is a lower level of virtualization. They’ll be able to failover a specific VM/CT to another node if one fails, but again pros and cons. The major annoyance for both is where do you put your data so 2 separate nodes can access it? Both k8s and proxmox have different approaches.
K8s and Proxmox operate at different levels. You can run k8s on Proxmox, and that’s what I’ve been (very slowly) building up to at home.
With Proxmox you can failover VMs between nodes as long as storage (including VM boot disk) is external to the nodes. This can be NFS on a NAS, iSCSI, Ceph or many other options.
It’s even possible to failover a USB device (e.g. a Zigbee controller or similar) by attaching one on each node and mapping them using Resource Mappings (search on the announcement post: proxmox.com/…/proxmox-virtual-environment-8-0).
This can also be used if you’re deploying k8s on top of Proxmox just as well.
Can patch but it’ll be 1-2 days of work for a good painted finish. Would have to do multiple patching/sanding coats, masking, priming then a couple of rolls of paint of the wall. It’s not trivial amount of work. For a slap-dash finish I could skip some of the steps but then again for a slap-dash look I can keep the wall plates. 😅
This has been my favorite thermostat. I don’t have a C wire nor an easy to add one in, but it’s AA batteries last for several months and has been very reliable.
It’s what I use as well — my home was built with a Honeywell Lyric T5 (non-smart), so the wiring harness between the two is identical (including colour), so I just unplugged the T5 and plugged in the T6, did some setup, and it was done.
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