You need an actuator that takes a proportional input signal. 0-10vdc is common. You’ll just need a 24vac to 10vdc power supply for the manual potentiometer.
Nice. I don’t know about the torque requirements or mounting dimensions of your existing (or new?) damper so double check those. Kinda sucks that they don’t make one that takes the pot signal directly. I know a lot of lighting dimmers are 0-10v but how they are powered and interact with that damper is uncharted territory.
Ah, that’s what I was looking for. Thank you. I am not sure if an MQTT signal works well for dimming, but I guess I’ll give it a try, because otherwise I end up with two switches controlling the same set of lights in the same location… not idea.
Cannot really answer your questions but if you ever swap to z2m and you keep the exact same friendly name you are using in zha, automations won’t need to be updated. I know it would be still a pain to re-pair but z2m is better than zha, so you will gain in the long term.
I’ve swapped out at few of my Zigbee devices in the past, and even though I’ve deleted the original device, HA will add an “_2” to the entity ID, which breaks any automation that uses it, even if the friendly name remains the same. The only time I’ve seen this not happen is when a device drops off the network and I re-pair it. Is there a trick to making this work? Even if I don’t switch to Z2MQTT, this would be really useful to know. I have a few unreliable cheap door sensors that I’d like to replace, but they’re tied to so many automations that I’ve been dragging my feet on it.
No particular tricks, maybe it’s a one of the limitation of zha. As an exemple, I recently replace a bulb by a new one and old one was repurpose somewhere else in the house, the only thing I did was to rename old bulb and added the new one with old bulb name.
Couldn’t agree more. ZHA is supposed to be more simple to use, but if one is already using HA it’s not going to be long before they reach its limits. Zigbee2MQTT has better device support and more features. While the basic setup may be a little bit more complicated than ZHA you get the benefits mentioned earlier, and you don’t really need to understand all of its functionality from the start - you can learn as you go.
When you talk about the limits of ZHA, what are you referring to exactly? It would probably take an entire weekend for me to re-pair all the devices on my Zigbee network, but I’m not completely opposed to the idea of I gain some functionality that I didn’t have before.
Based on what I read when I first set up HA, it seems like ZHA was somewhat lacking for quite some time but is now essentially equivalent to Z2MQTT. I went with ZHA because it seemed like the “default” for Zigbee.
The only way I can think of is to disable the built-in updates, and set up time based shortcuts and have them do an if on wifi then trigger home assistant app sensor updates.
The way I’d structure it is a normal shortcut that you run from as many time-based shortcuts as you want to create (so you can reuse it easily). You can check the network name you’re connected to and only run if it matches your home network.
Reolink has a wifi video doorbell that works great, it has an integration with Home Assistant but also with Frigate. I use Frigate personally, since it’s better at person detection and I can record directly to my server. If you don’t use Frigate, you can record to an SD card that you slot into the back of the doorbell.
4th vote for Reolink, with one caveat: the live video feed takes several minutes to load in home assistant for me, but is pretty instant when viewing through the Reolink app. I’ve spent several evenings trying to get it to load faster without luck, so for now I’m content just using the Reolink app.
Can patch but it’ll be 1-2 days of work for a good painted finish. Would have to do multiple patching/sanding coats, masking, priming then a couple of rolls of paint of the wall. It’s not trivial amount of work. For a slap-dash finish I could skip some of the steps but then again for a slap-dash look I can keep the wall plates. 😅
Hey I got one too! I took it apart and repainted it black to match.
For temp schedules I made a local calendar in HA with repeating events with a description of “high” “mid” and “low”. The automation trigger is a calender event that reads the description and sets the temp accordingly
Do either of you know what entity is being used for weather? I use openweathermap for my weather entities, but none of them provide a nice image of the weather like in the picture above
Maybe a template sensor over the openweathermap_forecast_condition state? You can pretty easily have a template change its icon, and mdi: has all the icons built in.
Here’s a template I use for current condition in a card, but it should work similarly for the forecast. Or works just need to be applied to the icon of a template sensor.
My setup is a bit different but I had a lot of fun putting it together. I have a D1 mini with a switch hat wired into the boiler.
The D1 runs a tiny web server that lets me turn the heating on and off. Then I have a bunch of ZigBee thermostats around the house that provide a fuzzy average temperature.
Then I have a custom dash in hass that displays pretty much what a hive would display.
Whole setup cost about $20 and has been running nonstop for over 5 years!
I got a Google Nest E thermostat off eBay from a charity shop for £12 and wired it in to where my old dumb dial thermostat was.
My ZigBee thermostats are just my ZigBee motion and door sensors that also have a temperature element.
I turned off the Nest smarts in Nest, and had HA come up with average temperatures for the whole house using the ZigBee things, then recreates the smarts in HA.
The Nest E smarts stopped working 6 months later but the heat link still worked, so I bought another off eBay for £20 and paired that.
I am gonna just get some ZigBee temp sensors at some point, but this works well enough for now.
Yeah, I suppose one could do a generic thermostat in HA and use just a few smart switches. However that requires some rewiring of the previously thermostat-controlled device.
In my previous house, the v1 prototype was wired straight to the boiler as there was no previous thermostat. In the current house, the v2 is wired to the Honeywell, so one can override the other as they are in parallel.
It was pretty finnicky stuff and I had to scour the internet for decade old wiring guides, but I like that sort of thing so it was good fun.
Every solution is a good solution if it makes your life easy and you have fun installing it!
If it’s anything like my setup (posted in the thread) they’ll have a colder spot in the house, whereas the thermostat is in a warm part of the house.
My Nest heats to 22 degrees C but the whole house temp is a couple degrees lower than that.
When the whole house temp hits 20 the heating is switched off, but looking at the thermostat you’d think we’re heating the house to a silly temp, when in fact there’s a disparity between the thermostat temp and the temp of the whole house.
No, it really is 25° in the two rooms this unit heats up. 🦎
With that said, the temperature rarely falls below 25°C due to the heat coming off of the neighbouring units in the building, unless I open the window. 🥹
This has been my favorite thermostat. I don’t have a C wire nor an easy to add one in, but it’s AA batteries last for several months and has been very reliable.
It’s what I use as well — my home was built with a Honeywell Lyric T5 (non-smart), so the wiring harness between the two is identical (including colour), so I just unplugged the T5 and plugged in the T6, did some setup, and it was done.
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