You need an actuator that takes a proportional input signal. 0-10vdc is common. You’ll just need a 24vac to 10vdc power supply for the manual potentiometer.
Nice. I don’t know about the torque requirements or mounting dimensions of your existing (or new?) damper so double check those. Kinda sucks that they don’t make one that takes the pot signal directly. I know a lot of lighting dimmers are 0-10v but how they are powered and interact with that damper is uncharted territory.
A stepper would be the easiest thing because if you know it takes 10 steps to fully open from fully closed, you could keep track of how many steps you have sent each direction in Home Assistant and be able to display the current status. 
If you want a knob on the wall that controls this, I think somewhere behind it you are still going to need a control system that translates wall switch inputs into stepping logic. Home Assistant would be able to do that easily. 
Thanks for the assistance. I ended up restoring a backup onto a new SD-card and everything started working again. I think the SD-card died on me while I was away.
However, my system continued to stall once in a while, so I decided to get the Home Assistant Green in order to update my setup and go with something more official. It’s just too troublesome having constant issues when everything relies on this one box!
Ah, that’s what I was looking for. Thank you. I am not sure if an MQTT signal works well for dimming, but I guess I’ll give it a try, because otherwise I end up with two switches controlling the same set of lights in the same location… not idea.
The only way I can think of is to disable the built-in updates, and set up time based shortcuts and have them do an if on wifi then trigger home assistant app sensor updates.
The way I’d structure it is a normal shortcut that you run from as many time-based shortcuts as you want to create (so you can reuse it easily). You can check the network name you’re connected to and only run if it matches your home network.
Cannot really answer your questions but if you ever swap to z2m and you keep the exact same friendly name you are using in zha, automations won’t need to be updated. I know it would be still a pain to re-pair but z2m is better than zha, so you will gain in the long term.
I’ve swapped out at few of my Zigbee devices in the past, and even though I’ve deleted the original device, HA will add an “_2” to the entity ID, which breaks any automation that uses it, even if the friendly name remains the same. The only time I’ve seen this not happen is when a device drops off the network and I re-pair it. Is there a trick to making this work? Even if I don’t switch to Z2MQTT, this would be really useful to know. I have a few unreliable cheap door sensors that I’d like to replace, but they’re tied to so many automations that I’ve been dragging my feet on it.
No particular tricks, maybe it’s a one of the limitation of zha. As an exemple, I recently replace a bulb by a new one and old one was repurpose somewhere else in the house, the only thing I did was to rename old bulb and added the new one with old bulb name.
Couldn’t agree more. ZHA is supposed to be more simple to use, but if one is already using HA it’s not going to be long before they reach its limits. Zigbee2MQTT has better device support and more features. While the basic setup may be a little bit more complicated than ZHA you get the benefits mentioned earlier, and you don’t really need to understand all of its functionality from the start - you can learn as you go.
When you talk about the limits of ZHA, what are you referring to exactly? It would probably take an entire weekend for me to re-pair all the devices on my Zigbee network, but I’m not completely opposed to the idea of I gain some functionality that I didn’t have before.
Based on what I read when I first set up HA, it seems like ZHA was somewhat lacking for quite some time but is now essentially equivalent to Z2MQTT. I went with ZHA because it seemed like the “default” for Zigbee.
I like this thermostat except for one issue. When i manually change the target temperature with the HA thermostat card, it has a maximum temperature of 40 degrees. With Fahrenheit, this is obviously no good. it has something to do with the MQTT configuration but i cant figure it out. Luckily service calls in automations work fine.
Hey I got one too! I took it apart and repainted it black to match.
For temp schedules I made a local calendar in HA with repeating events with a description of “high” “mid” and “low”. The automation trigger is a calender event that reads the description and sets the temp accordingly
Can patch but it’ll be 1-2 days of work for a good painted finish. Would have to do multiple patching/sanding coats, masking, priming then a couple of rolls of paint of the wall. It’s not trivial amount of work. For a slap-dash finish I could skip some of the steps but then again for a slap-dash look I can keep the wall plates. 😅
I wish I could figure out the code to get my T6 to control the Confortotal mini split I got off eBay. I have to think they’re using some genetic code base, but I couldn’t find a matching one.
My setup is a bit different but I had a lot of fun putting it together. I have a D1 mini with a switch hat wired into the boiler.
The D1 runs a tiny web server that lets me turn the heating on and off. Then I have a bunch of ZigBee thermostats around the house that provide a fuzzy average temperature.
Then I have a custom dash in hass that displays pretty much what a hive would display.
Whole setup cost about $20 and has been running nonstop for over 5 years!
I got a Google Nest E thermostat off eBay from a charity shop for £12 and wired it in to where my old dumb dial thermostat was.
My ZigBee thermostats are just my ZigBee motion and door sensors that also have a temperature element.
I turned off the Nest smarts in Nest, and had HA come up with average temperatures for the whole house using the ZigBee things, then recreates the smarts in HA.
The Nest E smarts stopped working 6 months later but the heat link still worked, so I bought another off eBay for £20 and paired that.
I am gonna just get some ZigBee temp sensors at some point, but this works well enough for now.
Yeah, I suppose one could do a generic thermostat in HA and use just a few smart switches. However that requires some rewiring of the previously thermostat-controlled device.
In my previous house, the v1 prototype was wired straight to the boiler as there was no previous thermostat. In the current house, the v2 is wired to the Honeywell, so one can override the other as they are in parallel.
It was pretty finnicky stuff and I had to scour the internet for decade old wiring guides, but I like that sort of thing so it was good fun.
Every solution is a good solution if it makes your life easy and you have fun installing it!
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