I wonder if the previous owner removed the battery because of this issue in the first place.
The fact that the flickering is full-width bands that don’t appear in screenshots indicates to me that this is a signal issue to or through the display.
An important variable to pay attention to and experiment with is the display’s refresh rate. It’s possible that is what is changing with and without the battery, though you most likely would have noticed if that were the case.
Since the problem varies based on battery presence, it would be appropriate to source a replacement battery - especially if you purchased a cheap aftermarket battery. The real deal for your system is available for $80USD from Parts People compared to $20-$40USD for low quality Amazon junk.
After the battery, my main suspicion is a fault on the mainboard leaking voltage from the battery circuit and affecting the display signals. Even without the infrequency of the problem that would be tricky to isolate and remedy.
Overall, this screams hardware issue and I don’t believe you will find a software trace of it. The problem is not visible in screenshots, so the software environment does not know that it exists.
It’s super impressive to see Wayland having its big breakthrough moment. I remember reading about Wayland 10 years ago and worrying it was going to end up as a dead project.
I love Wayland until I don’t. I honestly don’t think about it, it gets out of my way and my system is stable, until I go to use something like scrcpy that just doesn’t work at all. Luckily, the amount of things that straight up don’t work is shrinking.
There is still an older version of Scrivener available for free, from when they were beta testing it on Linux. It still worked well last time I checked. The Windows version also runs really well in WIne, although it takes a bit of setting up initially.
Is UI mimics ms office and has comparability with word files.
Not open-source and has some limitations without paying but works on windows and Linux. Can even be self hosted yourself to provide a web UI for access to your own files Google docs style.
I would conclude from this that your dc-dc converter is out of whack and only works stable enough for a small range of input voltages. This hardware issue might require a hardware fix at a repair shop :/
thanks for the input. so no amount of tweaking and kernel switches and MSRs and what not can be utilized to lower or alter the performance so that it behaves? the repair route isn’t likely unfortunately
Would you notice if it doesn’t? The screen flickering is obvious, what if your ram and ssd flicker, too? You can tinker with that laptop and try to reduce 3.3 or 5v power rail load with kernel flags, but until someone checks those power rails electrically I wouldn’t trust that laptop to be reliable for anything but a tinkering exercise. We sadly don’t get redundant power IC’s you could switch to, but the failure is common and the involved parts cheap. I wish competent repair shops were more common.
sure, it’s a decade old device worth like $100, if that. of course this is a tinkering exercise. but I’m referring to the fact that it works perfectly without battery, it obviously has some power limiting then (no speedstep, no turbo). so I was looking to recreate that behavior with the battery.
I encountered a similar issue with NFS a very long time ago. I had to set the option for each of my NFS exports to have a fsid and make sure the fsid is different between them. So one folder has the option fsid=1 Second folder has fsid=2 and so on. I hope this helps point you in the right direction.
I think everything goes against the battery? Did you try to recalibrate it? Discharge the battery completely, and then go into the BIOS and wait until it turns off. Now charge it for a couple of hours while it stills off.
I don’t think it is gonna fix anything, because it seems like a battery problem. Maybe try to get one from iFixIt, I had bad experiences with batteries from Amazon (if you got it from them).
yes partitioning is the correct term, and windows already has a tool for managing disks. you should find it as disk management or something similar. then as you install linux, it should give you the option to install alongside windows. but for this to work you need the usb drive to be flashed correctly as gpt or mbr depending on which one your windows has (type “list disk” in cmd and see if theres * under gpt), and rufus lets you choose this for your distro, so pick the same one. i have heard windows updates may wipe the bootloader, but you should be able to just install it back if that happens. i never update as i only use windows for my school stuff anyway. linux will not wipe windows unless you choose to do so in the installer.
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