great, looks promising, i’ll keep an eye on it as well! Problem for me seems to be invidious not creating a valid rss feed for playlists. I managed to setup yt-dl to watch a youtube playlist (these are valid), but not for invidious.
my plan was: add video to invidious playlist > trigger ytdl to download video from the watched playlist > sync video to phone > add directory to antennapod.
What arm board :p
Honest question. All the ones I have seen are really awful and I would love to tinker with something that has real pcie (Ampere workstations do not count)
Both the ROCKPro64 and the NanoPi M4 from 2018 has a x4 PCIe 2.1 interface. Same goes for almost all RK3399 boards that care to expose the PCIe interface.
Update: there’s also the more recent NanoPC-T6 with the RK3588 that has PCIe 3.0 x4.
They could’ve exposed more SATA ports and / or PCI lanes and decided not to do it.
And… let’s not even talk about the SFF 8087 connector that isn’t rated to be used as an external plug, you’ll likely ruin it quickly with insertions and/or some light accident.
PCIe 2.0 x 4 > 2.000 GB/s PCIe 3.0 x 2 > 1.969 GB/s
But we also have to consider the suggested ARM CPU does PCIe 2.1 and we’ve to add the this detail:
PCIe 2.1 provides higher performance than the PCIe 2.0 by facilitating a transparent upgrade from a 32-bit data path to a 64-bit data path at 33MHZ and 66MHz.
I shouldn’t also have a large impact but maybe we should think about it a bit more.
Anyways I do believe this really depends on your use case, if you plan to bifurcate it or not and what devices you’re going to have on the other end. For instance for a NAS I would prefer the PCIe 2.1 x 4 as you could have more SATA controllers with their own lanes instead of sharing lanes in PCIe 3.0 using a MUX.
Conclusion: your mileage may vary depending on use case. But I was expecting to have more PCI lanes exposed be it via more m.2 slots or other solution. I guess that when a CPU comes with everything baked in and the board maker “only has” to run wires around better do it properly and expose everything. Why not all SATAs for instance?
I have a 2N+C backup strategy. I have two NASes, and I use rclone to backup my data from one NAS to the other, and then backup (with encryption) my data to Amazon S3. I have a policy on that bucket in S3 that shoves all files into Glacier Deep Archive at day 0, so I pay the cheapest rate possible.
For example, I’m storing just shy of 400GB of personal photos and videos in one particular bucket, and that’s costing me about $0.77USD per month. Pennies.
Yes, it’ll cost me a lot more to pull it out and, yes, it’ll take a day or two to get it back. But it’s an insurance policy I can rely on and a (future) price I’m willing to pay should the dire day (lost both NASes, or worse) ever arrive when I need it.
Why Amazon S3? I’m in Australia, and that means local access is important to me. We’re pretty far from most other places around the world. It means I can target my nearest AWS region with my rclone jobs and there’s less latency. Backblaze is a great alternative, but I’m not in the US or Europe. Admittedly, I haven’t tested this theory, but I’m willing to bet that in-country speeds are still a lot quicker than any CDN that might help get me into B2.
Also, something others haven’t yet mentioned is, per Immich’s guidance on their repo (Disclaimer right at the top) is not NOT rely on Immich as your sole backup. Immich is under very active development, and breaking changes are a real possibility all the time right now.
So, I use SyncThing to also backup all my photos and videos to my NAS, and that’s also backed up to the other NAS and S3. That’s why I have nearly 400GB of photos and videos - it’s effectively double my actual library size. But, again, at less than a buck a month to store all that, I don’t really mind double-handling all that data, for the peace of mind I get.
Yeah, but I’d rather not change it because I am pretty sure there are some devices in the house where I set up static IP addresses. I try not to do that, but over the years, I am pretty sure there are at least a couple. Heh, maybe a good time to seek them out!
Plug your phone into the pc and choose to trust the PC. This should share your mobile internet with your PC
I use it all the time, when I distrohop on my laptop with a wifi card that needs to download b43 from the internet before WiFi works 🤪
Definitely unplug existing router, else you may end up with a doubleNAT… I have a physical opnsense (without wifi antenna) plugged between my IPS router which in modem mode and another proprietary router which acts as bridge and wifi access point.
Your router’s IP can be anything. Choose any internal IP address on your subnet.
You can have 2 routers on the same subnet just make sure you disable DHCP on the new one while you perform the setup of everything else.
Then when you want to switch over, toggle on dhcp on the new router and replace the cables and you should be fine. You’ll know it’s working when you plug into it and get a default route of the new router.
Let’s see if I got this… great idea to disable DHCP on the new OPNSense for now. I forgot about that. Just keep the one LAN cable going in, and I will just keep the IP address as it is right now (.79). Not even worry about the WAN port at all. Set up all of the features, including things like reserved IP addresses and whatnot. Then, when I am ready to drop it in, I will turn the old router off, and on the new router set up a static IP on the LAN port (.0.1) and add the WAN port (DHCP). Drop it in place, turn on DHCP and I’ll be good to go.
Sounds about right, just be aware that your LAN and WAN networks need to be different, so you’ll likely need to change your old router’s dhcp subnet. E.g. 192.168.1.1/24 on the WAN and 192.168.0.1/24 on the LAN.
Yep. Keep the WAN port dhcp Client enabled if you can, just one less thing to worry about.
Also take note that when you change the static IP of the new router it would conflict with the old one (and dhcp might fail). So you might need to set your local clients IP. Take note of the configuration it has and the steps to set it manually.
Update: I finally installed RYOT, and wow is it slow, and resource intensive. It’s using more than 20% of the CPU on my NAS when it isn’t even open! Might switch to Media Tracker…
You need to have a dedicated WAN interface, where you connect your WAN cable. The rest of the ports must be put into bridge mode.
You need to create VLANs, one for the WAN, then your home network, eventually your IoT network, guest network, etc. and expose those VLANs to the respective bridge ports.
You would also need an AP that supports VLANs, so anything that runs OpenWRT or other supported device. The routing would be done on the OPNSense’s side.
On the Proxmox you need to expose the network ports to the VM running OPNSense.
But there are more steps involved and if someone can share a step-by-step guide explaining the whole process would be better.
When I install a new router I do the initial install with all network connections disconnected (physically or virtually since it’s proxmox). Once I get my IPs and ports set how I want I do the switcherydoo and disconnect the old one and connect the new one.
If you’re using the same subnet and your router has the same IP address the only down time should be the process of connecting devices, and maybe a bit for DHCP on your wan side. All internal devices should continue working fine, but expect their IPs to jump around as they get new DHCP leases.
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