@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

ByteJunk

@ByteJunk@lemmy.world

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ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

There’s strong statistical evidence suggesting that millennials are, on average, older than gen z’ers. It not clear from the latest studies what could have caused this presumed age gap.

Those same studies also evidenced the startling fact that the tested individuals shared over 99.9% of their genome and could in fact belong to the same species, which is what prompted all the recent controversy after one of the lead researchers said in a televised interview that “they’re all people”.

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

Im sorry, noob here. I don’t know what the voltage at the reset pin would be when the capacitor is discharged, my first guess would be 0v but the answers there say it’s the reverse - VCC at power on, then goes to gnd as it charges.

If that’s the case, I think it’s exactly what I need.

I’ll test it out later today (and I’ll go read more about how this capacitor+resistance circuit works…).

ByteJunk, (edited )
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

Uh yes, pin to base.

I still couldn’t come up with a way to make it work using a resistor-capacitor circuit, but I did learn a lot (that particular rabbit hole led to me an article discussing capacitance in potato tubers…!).

There is probably a better way of solving it, but at least I got it working with another transistor to “decouple” that sensitive pin from the base. I’m not exactly sure why there’s a negative voltage across base and emitter, but it was preventing boot.

I’d be very interested in hearing any criticism you would be willing to share. I have hopes of moving this from my breadboard and solder it to a PCB so I can put it into a paper-cut lightbox that will be controllable from HomeAssistant, but I wouldn’t want to risk setting anything on fire…

https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/f5868233-e20a-41e1-a79d-e8332200710a.png

One thing that concerns me is that 7333A. I only have it in a TO-92 package, and while it’s only powering the ESP-01S, which doesn’t really draw that much current, it still gets uncomfortably hot to touch (I can hold it for a few seconds, but not much longer). Is there a better alternative, or is it supposed to get hot?

Thank you!

[edit: updated the circuit, I had misplace a resistor]

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

I need to know where this is, I’m sure I’m going to come across a door with this rune

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

I played it as part of Xbox live, paid $20 for 2 months. Ended up playing a lot more of Senua Sacrifice than I did Starfield.

That price is very acceptable, almost a convenience fee that I gladly pay so I don’t have to look for torrents and stuff.

I would never pay the hyperinflated prices that are being asked for AAA nowadays, especially for digital copies that, as PlayStation is keen to teach us, are worthless.

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

No way. I could see 20 in heavy city use and loaded, but 30 to 40 mpg is fairly standard.

I feel like the Steam Deck is the best proof of Gabe Newell's quote that "piracy is a service issue."

They could have easily crammed the Steam Deck full of stuff to make it hard to use for piracy - locking down everything, making it usable only to play games you legitimately own, force you to go through who knows what hoops in order to play games on it. That’s what Nintendo or Apple or most other companies do....

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

Came looking for this.

Get rid of Gabe and put in the Unity board, and we’ll be paying extra for every Mb we download…

ByteJunk,
@ByteJunk@lemmy.world avatar

General strike (like the writers guild, except everyone) until the distribution of (a part of the) dividends to the workers is enshrined into law.

Sounds pretty doable to me.

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