Yes, in the sense that I’d expect it to use less power than in incandescent when lit and no more than a few watts when “off,” but I figure any kind of LED I could put in it and any sort of controller short of shoving in a full-blown Raspberry Pi 5 would be able to manage that.
This is by far the best option for awkward connectors. You could even remove the pins and put the new cables in by opening the crimp and soldering the new ones without any splice.
Replacing the linear elements with switchers means more noise in the power lines. How much more, and whether it’s noticeable or tolerable will be down to you.
The linear regulators are still there. It’s the rectifier that gets replaced. I guess the main difference in the power side is the high frequency noise of the switching PSUs vs the low frequency ripple of the rectifier, I’m not 100% sure if 7x12s are immune to them at least at audio frequencies.
-i live in the country, power outages happen, I cannot reliably prevent things from turning on all at once.
-my other mixers make noise when turned on, but they are not loud enough to kill speakers; even so I do try to turn things on in the proper order. This one is dangerously exceptional and won’t be used if this can’t be fixed.
There are timing relays for under $50 that can delay the power to the amps for a few seconds. You just need to buy a 230V model (for input and switch) that has the current capacity for your sound system.
Kester 63/37 no-clean 22AWG for leaded work, SN100C no-clean for RoHS. Mg chemicals and chip quik are good alternatives, Kester can be expensive to justify for home use.
Ages ago (80’s I think) there was talk of making lead free solder the only type that was available to consumers, and my great uncle (a deal horder) went out and got 2 cases of radioshack 64/40 resin core. Pretty sure it’s the same stuff you can still buy today, but I’ve got another 4 spools in my kit (that are old enough to drink).
In my uncles defense sometimes his deal hording paid off. He once saved a family reunion when our venue fell through because he happened to have a dozen brand new hibachi grills in the apartment he rented just for his stuff. And he made a small fortune when he bought a bunch of freon before it went off the market.
I finally bought some flux last year and was angry at myself for all the wasted years, proper solder is next on the list but I still have some cheap but usable solder that I want to use up first
MELF stands for Metal Electrode Leadless Face although anyone who has had the pleasure of working with them will tell you it stands for Most End up Lying on the Floor.
It’s not that you can’t make a more efficient device without it. Hell, if you wanted to impress people, you can absolutely populate a board with IC’s and traces and build your own logic.
Orrrrr you could spend $45 to get a full GPIO header backed behind a vast online electronics community. Tbh pi’s, arduinos, and other ARM core hobby kits give you a root skillset to base any project on. Once you can get logic through your code, there’e no need to figure out wire logic if you can program based on I/O and software variables. But it -is- a different skillset that you’ll need to learn to use it efficiently.
On the topic of lithium polymer charging, it has this to say:
Charge and discharge characteristics of Li-polymer are identical to other Li-ion systems and do not require a dedicated charger. Safety issues are also similar in that protection circuits are needed. Gas buildup during charge can cause some prismatic and pouch cells to swell, and equipment manufacturers must make allowances for expansion. Li-polymer in a foil package may be less durable than Li-ion in the cylindrical package.
However this is not a lithium polymer battery, and as it’s a 32700, it is not a prismatic or pouch cell either. It is a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) cylindrical battery in metal housing. Battery University does have them listed in their table of chemistries (in case you’re curious), but they don’t seem to have much detailed information. Enough to build a charger though :)
Anyway, thanks for your reference in any case! I’m not responding to criticize you, only to improve the utility of this conversation in case someone else finds it on search :)
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