askelectronics

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Eheran, in Making an old lamp smart

Is energy efficiency of any concern?

grue,

Yes, in the sense that I’d expect it to use less power than in incandescent when lit and no more than a few watts when “off,” but I figure any kind of LED I could put in it and any sort of controller short of shoving in a full-blown Raspberry Pi 5 would be able to manage that.

hardaysknight, in What is this connector called?

Why not just splice the wire?

Eheran,

This is by far the best option for awkward connectors. You could even remove the pins and put the new cables in by opening the crimp and soldering the new ones without any splice.

linker3000, in Designing a synth bipolar PSU inspired by Doepfer's A-100 PSU3

Replacing the linear elements with switchers means more noise in the power lines. How much more, and whether it’s noticeable or tolerable will be down to you.

wfh,

The linear regulators are still there. It’s the rectifier that gets replaced. I guess the main difference in the power side is the high frequency noise of the switching PSUs vs the low frequency ripple of the rectifier, I’m not 100% sure if 7x12s are immune to them at least at audio frequencies.

Funkster, in Mixer makes loud pop when powered on

When powering up a sound system, the power amps always get turned on last so that clicks and pops from upstream devices don’t get to your speakers!

minticecream,

Yep, seconded. Those older mixers all do that. Power on your amps after powering on your mixer.

JTode,

-i live in the country, power outages happen, I cannot reliably prevent things from turning on all at once.

-my other mixers make noise when turned on, but they are not loud enough to kill speakers; even so I do try to turn things on in the proper order. This one is dangerously exceptional and won’t be used if this can’t be fixed.

Besen,

There are timing relays for under $50 that can delay the power to the amps for a few seconds. You just need to buy a 230V model (for input and switch) that has the current capacity for your sound system.

OmegaPillar, in What's your solder of choice?

Kester 63/37 no-clean 22AWG for leaded work, SN100C no-clean for RoHS. Mg chemicals and chip quik are good alternatives, Kester can be expensive to justify for home use.

Bishma, (edited ) in What's your solder of choice?
@Bishma@discuss.tchncs.de avatar

Ages ago (80’s I think) there was talk of making lead free solder the only type that was available to consumers, and my great uncle (a deal horder) went out and got 2 cases of radioshack 64/40 resin core. Pretty sure it’s the same stuff you can still buy today, but I’ve got another 4 spools in my kit (that are old enough to drink).

In my uncles defense sometimes his deal hording paid off. He once saved a family reunion when our venue fell through because he happened to have a dozen brand new hibachi grills in the apartment he rented just for his stuff. And he made a small fortune when he bought a bunch of freon before it went off the market.

Lucien, (edited ) in What's your solder of choice?
@Lucien@hexbear.net avatar

Kester 48 SAC305 or K100LD, depending on the application. If you’re not trying for ROHS compliance, the Kester 44 with 66 Core is very good.

mayo_cider, in What's your solder of choice?
@mayo_cider@hexbear.net avatar

I finally bought some flux last year and was angry at myself for all the wasted years, proper solder is next on the list but I still have some cheap but usable solder that I want to use up first

Godort, in What's your solder of choice?

I use ChipQuik’s 62/36/2.

I haven’t found a lead free solder that works as well as this stuff. Plus, I never need to worry about silver-plated stuff cracking at the joint.

seathru, in What's your solder of choice?

Give me good ole rosin core 60/40 lead solder any day.

Admittedly I’ve never used any “good” lead free solder.

ezekielmudd, (edited ) in Is this a fuse? If so, what kind? if not, what is it?

If anyone is wondering, that glass diode package is called a MELF. I don’t know why.

They suck because they roll off the PCB during the pick and place process due to low surface area contacting with the solder paste.

I’ve had to replace so many of them.

cmnybo,

MELF stands for Metal Electrode Leadless Face although anyone who has had the pleasure of working with them will tell you it stands for Most End up Lying on the Floor.

ezekielmudd,

Hahaha!!! You are soooo very right!!!

cmnybo, in Is this a fuse? If so, what kind? if not, what is it?

No, there’s no fuse here. From top to bottom, there is an electrolytic capacitor, zener diode, and a 4MHz resonator.

SpikesOtherDog,

Ding ding ding

For op, ZD means zener diode.

reric88,
@reric88@beehaw.org avatar

Thank you for your answer. I will continue looking for the fault

GlitchyDigiBun, in I sort of left the hobbyist electronics world back in 2018, and now everything seems to have an embedded Raspberry Pi in it. What's the best way to catch up?
@GlitchyDigiBun@lemmy.dbzer0.com avatar

It’s not that you can’t make a more efficient device without it. Hell, if you wanted to impress people, you can absolutely populate a board with IC’s and traces and build your own logic.

Orrrrr you could spend $45 to get a full GPIO header backed behind a vast online electronics community. Tbh pi’s, arduinos, and other ARM core hobby kits give you a root skillset to base any project on. Once you can get logic through your code, there’e no need to figure out wire logic if you can program based on I/O and software variables. But it -is- a different skillset that you’ll need to learn to use it efficiently.

tofubl, in Sanity check for LiFePO4 Charger Design

Take a look at Battery University, I think it’s a great resource.

On the topic of lithium polymer charging, it has this to say:

Charge and discharge characteristics of Li-polymer are identical to other Li-ion systems and do not require a dedicated charger. Safety issues are also similar in that protection circuits are needed. Gas buildup during charge can cause some prismatic and pouch cells to swell, and equipment manufacturers must make allowances for expansion. Li-polymer in a foil package may be less durable than Li-ion in the cylindrical package.

Saigonauticon,

Battery University is indeed a great resource!

However this is not a lithium polymer battery, and as it’s a 32700, it is not a prismatic or pouch cell either. It is a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) cylindrical battery in metal housing. Battery University does have them listed in their table of chemistries (in case you’re curious), but they don’t seem to have much detailed information. Enough to build a charger though :)

batteryuniversity.com/…/bu-216-summary-table-of-l…

Also some more detailed information here:

batteryuniversity.com/…/bu-205-types-of-lithium-i…

Anyway, thanks for your reference in any case! I’m not responding to criticize you, only to improve the utility of this conversation in case someone else finds it on search :)

tofubl,

Oh my bad. I’m no battery expert by a long shot; just meant to contribute a good source of information. But you’re way ahead of me anyway. Carry on! 😊

Fiivemacs, in What is this connector called?

micro jst 1.25 ?

waz,

That was one of the two I found in my search. The other was Molex PicoBlade. None of the pictures I saw of gave me confidence either way.

Heir_Of_Isildur,

www.jst.com/products/category/wire-to-wire/

Probably good to check these out, maybe the XA series?

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