The second issue could be a software issue and the first could be a driver issue, so I’d start by reinstalling Windows and installing the latest driver for your specific GPU
Unfortunately, the best method by far for identifying bad components is “have a spare you can try instead” or “take suspect parts and swap them into a known-good system.”
I.E. test your parts.
Memory and hard drive tests are the first thing you should run, for almost any problem, just because they’re so low-effort. Swap them into a separate system to test, if possible, and definitely make sure you’re running tests from a USB stick or CD-ROM, to help eliminate as many variables as you can.
PSU is a good bet after those, for intermittent problems, since the ENTIRE rest of the computer relies on it, and unreliable power can cause really weird and unpredictable failures. But there really isn’t much you can do to TEST a PSU without buying an electronic load tester that’s gonna cost you more than a new PSU itself. If you don’t have anyone to borrow from, a spare PSU is really a solid investment.
Does your CPU has integrated graphics? You can remove your GPU and then you test if the error still occurs to find out if your GPU has damage. You can also test a live system, to exclude issues in your OS or driver configuration
Your GPU might be having problems, but the other problems you list sound like either a bad hard drive or a virus / bad windows install.
There are several utility programs you can download that will check your hard drive for failures. I would back up any important files and then run those. If the hard drive is bad, replace it. Either way you will probably want to re-install windows from scratch.
Not an expert, but it wouldn’t hurt checking if it’s a bad RAM. If you have multiple sticks, you could try using your PC with just one at a time, to check if it’s one of them dying.
You can run Memtest, just boot it and check the ram. Some Linux distros have memtest included in their bootable image (e.g. Ubuntu). Otherwise you can create a bootable stick with memtest by yourself.
This one should have you covered. They’re quite nifty. Can do a lot more than what you ask.
USB C Tester,KJ-KayJI 2 in 1 Tester Color Screen IPS Digital Multimeter(2022),Voltage,Cur,Pwr,Resistance,Elec,Temp,Capacity,Tme,Fast Charging,with USB Clip Cable Support PD2.0/PD3.0,QC2.0/QC3.0,BC1.2 a.co/d/6RlmtOo
There are simple testers like this. It’s rather overpriced for what it is, but it would be trivial to make one yourself. That will only do a continuity check though. If you want to know what the current or speed ratings are, you will need to read the chip in the cable.
The drains in the 8205 MOSFET are connected together internally. In a DW01 circuit, they are not connected to anything else.
One MOSFET stops the battery from charging and the other stops it from discharging.
Yes that I found as well but have/had trouble understanding why it would be built like this. Also why a MOSFET would be designed internally like this. If you want more power capability you’d get a bigger MOSFET rather than two tiny ones in parallel right?
It’s related to the internal body diode of the N channel mosfet, so two of them are in series but reversed. When one MOSFET is activated, current may flow easily in one direction but be reduced by the body diode of the other. When both are activated, current may flow easily in either direction.
It seems they don’t really prevent discharging or charging separately due to the body diodes but they can cut off the battery alltogether.
The MOSFETs are in series, but in opposite polarities. Two MOSFETs are needed to block current in both directions.
The DW01 uses the voltage drop across the MOSFETS to measure the current. The overcurrent threshold voltage is fixed at 150mV. Using a larger MOSFET that has a lower RDS(on) will increase the current limit.
Word came down from on high, that I wasn’t to use 60/40 for teaching anymore. Usually went through about 1kg annually, and I had just stocked up. I think I had just gotten 8kg, or something like that, because of the bulk rebate, about a year before. And what was I to do? We weren’t allowed to have the solder on premises anymore.
So anyway, 60/40 for 1.0 and 0.7mm and some sn/pb/ag for 0.25mm. And no, I don’t have ventilation for my workspace, but I do have enough solder to last a couple of lifetimes.
While 60/40 is a joy to work with, I gave SAC305 a shot and it’s been totally fine for my uses with hobby electronic projects. You need to run your soldering iron hotter so it’ll be rougher on your iron’s tips, but I haven’t noticed much difference in ware, etc.
As a hobbyist, contributing to junk with lead in the world is something that’s been bugging me for some time. Additionally, it feels silly but there’s also a certain relief in not having to worry as much about contamination between my workbench and the rest of my environment.
If you haven’t already I’d also suggest getting some good flux. The Amtech NC-559-ASM has been working great for me.
That makes sense! In my case I actually needed to turn down my iron temps for the lead-free solder, previously had it ridiculously high from when I was trying to work with the cheap no-name solder.
This new lead free stuff is great, it comes with a price tag but it’s eons better than the no-name stuff IMO.
I have flux (syringe type) but I have no idea if I’m using it correctly, or if it’s just not that great. Haven’t noticed too much of a difference when soldering with it, apart from needing to brush off the circuit board with some contact cleaner to remove the residue
The navy gave me a spool like 5+ years ago. It has no label. They were going to trash it. I have no idea whatsoever what its composition is. It’s rosin core and that’s about all I know. I also have a few different gauges of safety wire and shear wire.
It really depends how much power/current you are switching. If you are switching 1A with a beefy heatsink FET, the time spent in the linear region is short enough it shouldn’t be a problem. If you are switching 50A though it then you might have a problem. Depending on how that gate divider is set up, you could still potentially damage the gate of the FET when shorting it to ground to discharge it if I understand how its hooked up correctly.
Ideally you would use some kind of FET driver with a voltage source (e.g. linear regulator) to turn on and off the gate plus the gate resistor.
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