In my experience, if they don't include the conductor in the connector, there will generally not be a wire for it in the cable. So replacing the USB-C connector is probably not going to add any functionality.
I have a stack of USB-A to USB mini/micro cables that are a bit like this. Two conductors, only do charging. So if I replace the connector, there's no wire to connect the D+ / D- lines to. It's quite possible the manufacturer of your cable had some similar or otherwise reduced feature set in mind, and wanted to save 5 cents of copper.
I also have some cursed cables that have normal ports, but only two wires inside the cable (power/ground), or are otherwise out-of-spec in ways that make the data lines mostly fail. These have wasted quite a bit of my time over the years.
I only need a USB 2.0 cable mostly for charging, I have better cables, I chose this one for the liquid silicone outer layer. Of course if the wires inside are less than four or too thin I won't waste USB connectors (that I already have, I would not order them for this) and I will recycle it.
Mostly I just work in a well ventilated area. Oh and for sure disconnect power before desoldering anything.
Other than that, I avoid taking apart microwaves (beryllium, high voltage), anything with a CRT (imploding glass, high voltage), and high voltage transformers (transformer oil, high voltage). Also any medical equipment (chemical hazard, radiation hazards, biohazard, high voltage, imploding glass). Oh and no unexploded munitions for reasons that should be obvious (people still salvage these in my country and it sometimes doesn't end well).
I find a hot air rework station+tweezers a much faster way to salvage than jamming a hot iron into boards. Also lets you salvage SMT components, which are most of the better parts these days. For 1970s stuff, it's mostly through-hole, I'd test the parts before trying to reuse them. Capacitors especially. Got to love those big transistors from our side of the Iron Curtain though.
Grind it into dust, add sand, pour molten non-recyclable plastic into it (e.g. recyclable plastic with too many impurities). Market it as a weighted ballast material e.g. for the base of IKEA lamps.
Wear trainers not sling backs. Molten solder and your tootsie don't go well together.
I turn the printed circuit board component side down and wave a hot air gun over the flip side, whilst tapping the board against the edge of work bench. The result is usually a cascade of components (and blobs of molten solder).
Very therapeutic. When I'm stuck trying to work out how to do something, when everything I have tried has failed miserably, I deconstruct something electronic. No, I keep well away from psychiatrists.
You (I anticipate) won't be doing this 9 hours a day, 7 days a week - most of the nasties are long term exposure ones, so a one-off should be fine. If anything ever irritates your eyes or throat, get out of there and ventilate the place.
I've successfully used incandescent Bulbs in the past. They have barely any resistance when cold, which is the reason why they usually blow up when you turn them on.
For their size, usually I use more than the power the device will use but less than the wires can handle for a while. In your case id get a lamp with a E10 socket, for example 3.5V 0,7W.
Alternatively you can use a PSU with current limiting features.
Type C 2.0 exists and is widespread and that is what I wanted, the issue is that it doesn't work as a 2.0 cable either. I like the liquid silicone exterior and I have a few connectors ready so if I like what's inside I may upgrade it. Otherwise I will recycle it and I already have better cables.
I am pretty busy this week, I am posting when I have breaks and I don't have it with me. When I'll have the time I will make a post with photos and measurements and I will probably also open it up.
You could try connecting a current source to the source of the FET, connect the gate to a voltage reference, and connect the drain to a supply. Then the gate source voltage will be kept at threshold at all times and can be measured with a difference amplifier.
This could be done with a couple of op-amps provided they aren't adversely affected by the radiation.
You can make your own current-limited power supply, probably from bits and pieces you already have. Let's say that you have a 5v dc power supply and a hand full of rectifier diodes and resistors (various values and sizes).
Put a series chain of forward biased rectifier diodes and resistor(s) across your 6v supply. Choose enough diodes to give you a 3v output. Now choose a combination of series/parallel resistors to give you a 2v drop with a current of, say 100mA. You need 20 ohms - so that could be 5 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel.
The most current that can put out is the full 5v across 20 ohms - but at that point the output voltage will be near zero.
Bench supplies, well reasonable ones, allow you to set a current limit as well as an output voltage. At loads below that current limit - it operates as a constant voltage supply. At loads above - it operates as a "constant current" supply. You would set the output current limit to 100mA and that's the most that it will output.
Now the rectifier diodes plus resistor would allow the current to increase above 100mA, up to 250mA when the output voltage will be near zero (short circuited) - if you want better than that, then you can add a transistor and a few other components.
You can calculate a materials resistance using its resistivity and dimensions. For a simple wire, the formula is R = p*l/A, where p is resistivity, l is length, and A is area (cross sectional. Imagine cutting the wire, you'd see a circular cross section).
Some materials like copper have very low resistance.
Some materials like oil have a very high resistance.
Some materials like carbon have a resistance somewhere in between, but generally fairly high.
Resistors use a strip of carbon to make a high resistance path.
Resistance in a switch is typically minimized by design, so introducing a switch or button should not introduce a lot of resistance. It is tyically better not to use switches of this type in signal critical or high power applications (e.g. sound or battery charging), but charging up a small capacitor or powering a small dc circuit should be fine
To measure resistance, one can use a multimeter. This makes use of Ohm's law. Ohms law shows that
V=I*R
Where V is voltage, R is resistance, and I is current. When a small voltage is applied across your component, the current is measured. Then using the current and voltage, it can figure out what the resistance is. It shows it to you on a display so all you have to do is touch the probe tips to the two legs of the switch.
For a switch this will typically be less than 1 ohm. If you buy from a reputable distributor (e.g. digikey, mouser, arrow, farnell, even LCSC) you can get the "datasheet" and look for the constact resistance. This might be a bit harder with ebay/amazon/aliexpress parts, so just stick with a multimeter.
A cheap handheld one is fine, but I'd say prob look for an EEVBlog or other video looking at good cheap meters; you can get pretty good stuff without breaking the bank. Don't stress over it though; any multimeter is better than no multimeter
A 12 volt battery w/ a pot and a few other components. The plan is it wont be running more than 5 milliamps through it. I ended up getting this so not exactly a conventional momentary switch.
That is pretty much exactly a conventional momentary switch. It just happens to be packaged for use controlling something a little different.
It should be fine for your application.
One thing to note - the contacts will probably "bounce" as the switch is closed. Produce a string of momentary connections and disconnections for, oh, say the first few thousandths of a second. That's perfectly normal for a mechanical switch.
That won't matter in its intended application. But if you are using it with electronics, say counting the number of times the switch is operated - the results can be unexpected.
You can look up "debounce" to see how this can be worked-around.
Thanks, I appreciate the clarification on the switch just having a different housing. I'll have to do some further research on "bouncing", interesting stuff.
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