in many cases you could simply move the directory that is taking too much space to different directory then either make softlink or if that didnt work you can use mount --bind
for example if directory /var/cach/mygame is too big, move my game to /mnt/part2/mygames
then either do ln -s /mnt/part2/mygames /var/cach/ or mount --bind /mnt/part2/mygames /var/cach/mygames
the miunt option is not permanent so if it works, u will need to add it to /etc/fstab to make it permenent
I hate that I can’t get through all the trash that has been the readers digest for the last 2 decades. Maybe my memory is tinted, but it seems like it’s not what it used to be. Maybe my perspective has shifted.
The laptop’s battery during these days would discharge and charge, slowly degrading the battery because only the last ~ 20% would be charged and discharged.
How, tho? Sounds like what we had for e.g. NiCd batteries (memory effect) but do not have for li-{ion,poly} ones.
Also, why would the laptop discharge the battery with ac attached? Sounds weird to me
Lithium-ion batteries these days do not have a memory effect, but will degrade when kept at 100% charge because the internal composition of chemicals will change, destroying the battery in the process. The ideal charge is between 20% and 80%. With (better) battery charge control you can extend the design capacity (the maximum charge the battery can hold when new) and lifespan. With AC attached, the battery will discharge but it will be charged when the minimum charge level is reached.
Huh, apparently some vendors kinda do it themselves (not sure if always, tho) at least for the lower bound: cat /sys/class/power_supply/BAT1/voltage_min_design reports 10.8v for a 3s battery which is about 3.6v per cell instead of 3.2. Also the upper limit is uncertain so far
I don’t really understand that argument, and I want someone to correct me:
If you were keeping your battery at the ideal charge (i.e. 20% to 80%) that means you are really only using 60% of your battery during its lifetime. I’ve been using my phone since July of 2021, always changing it to 100%, preferably only charging when it gets close to 0%. Using AccuBattery I get the battery stats and after 2 years and a half, the battery capacity is at 85%.
I still have 85% of usable battery, this is more than the 60% I’d get if I was using the battery ideally. So I don’t really get this argument about taking care of the battery cause it appears it would take a while before the battery is degraded enough to hold less charge than the recommended rate.
Stopping charge at 80% (and still going down near 0%) should give you roughly 4x the cycle life. So in theory doing that it would take about 8 years to hit the same 85% usable level.
85% left after 2.5 years is a high rate of wear, due to phones really pushing as much as they can into the battery to have longer run times.
85% after 2.5 years is not good. My car battery has guarante of 80% capacity after 6 years. 20% of range is a significant difference so I take car of my battery and don’t charge it above 80% if not needed. It’s the same with laptops. Current models can easily last 5-10 years but having only 50% of capacity after that time would be a problem. Sure, if you’re intending to throw it out after 3 years it doesn’t really matter but if you want to use it for as long as possible you definitely should take care of the battery. It’s pretty much the only part that degrades (except maybe keyboard).
Please report back in a few weeks and a few months, and maybe even a year or two down the road.
Generally “I’m really (happy/upset/confused/sad) with it” after only a day isn’t really good feedback for people thinking of changing, but it does provide a good baseline to measure against once you’re more familiar with it, and getting glimpses into your learning curve might be really helpful for people looking for advice on which OS to go with.
I agree that normally, it isnt. But my post also was about the installation process and the changeover from one distro to the other. They were both very smooth. I was prepared for a lot more issues.
Generally yes, I will report back further down the line.
For me the main config difficulty is from the statusbar. Polybar, Eww, are harder to config comparing to the WM. I solved that with Tint2 bar. It can be configured from an GUI, for the basics. The only code I added to config is simple.
If you want just boot your system and not have to worry about setting up keybindings, my best suggest is ArcoLinuxB i3 Edition and Garuda Linux i3 flavor, you really don’t have to worry at all for that, and you can use the i3 reference card to learn the most common keybindigs.
As others have said, that’s basically pop shell. Cosmic will be out of alpha at some point this year, but you don’t need to wait for that to get started. I’ve been using pop os on my personal machine, and Ubuntu gnome with the pop-shell gnome extension for many years and it works great. Pretty much zero config and it is super easy to set up and get started.
The biggest is the baked in support for nVidia GPUs, but their DE has a lot of work done to it for usability purposes. No real advances have been made over the past few years to really set it apart again, but there is a massive overhaul coming that will make it one of a kind again.
To clarify, Cosmic desktop is not the default. It’s very much a WIP. Pop OS uses Gnome by default. They add some nice customizations to it too like tiling support and some enhanced power management options.
Pop OS is Ubuntu based, but they replace Snap with Flatpak, package a kernel as close to mainline as possible, and include Nvidia drivers (if you grab the Nvidia installer ISO).
I used Pop for a few years, loved it. Last I used it they still defaulted to Xorg instead of Wayland and that was a no go for me with an eGPU so I switched to Opensuse.
LMDE is really great. Just migrated an old 2013 iMac to it today. Everything works out of the box. Everything easy like you can expect from Mint and stable like on Debian. Difficult not to love.
You can run different userland drivers but not kernel drivers. Thankfully the kernel drivers are pretty much unified for AMD. to use the proprietary ones, install the appropriate driver in the distrobox container.
Vulkan and Opengl are different drivers so you will need to figure out the flags you need to set appropriately. arch wiki is a food resource for this.
For rocm and stuff make sure your kernel has the necessary bits, this will be distro specific, but I can at least say arch will work fine simply. and fedors too iirc
I decided to use a rolling distro, in order to get the newest kernel drivers My favorite rolling distros are OpenSuse Tumbleweed and Arch OpenSuse TW was great out of box on my old iMac, but you most likely have to get some proprietary firmware in order for WiFi to work (see dmesg for drivers missing their FW) I decided to use arch (install using archinstall python script) from now on because I prefer the installation of community packages if the AUR using yay instead of searching software.opensuse.org/packages and click “one click imstall” download the file, double klick the file, which opens YaST frontend for repo management and then klick multiple times until the package is installed 😄
Pro of that behavior of openSuse is, that you don’t have to touch the terminal even once (except for checking dmesg to see if all driver work as intended)
Maybe, it makes sense to upgrade wifi using a dongle (you may have only wifi 4 in the iMac and there are usb dongles for wifi 6) or just use Ethernet.
I had problems using suspend on my iMac (screen was glitchy after wakeup) so I prevented systemd to trigger suspend and always turn the iMac off after usage. Command to disable suspend: sorry forgot but was something with simlinking
But anyway, now that I searched for it, I found this: apparently you can prevent the glitchy screen if you boot via legacy BIOS instead of EFI, to achieve this, you have to install your Linux (and thus grub2) from a liveOS booted from a cdRom instead from a stick (old mac boot efi from stick and legacy bios from usbstick) once you have your Linux booting using legacy bios, you can from now on boot your ISOs using grub and you don’t have to use any stick or CDrom ever again on that machine, as long as you leave have your boot partition untouched 😇
Feel free to ask more (I love when people try to make old hardware usable and prevent eWaste that way)
Yeah WiFi requires proprietary drivers… it is less of an issue in 2024 as even purist distro like Debian now ship with those. The screen bug sounds annoying though… on which iMac did you experience this?
Yea, it ships with the driver but not with the firmware needed for that driver (/sys/firmware/) in Arch there is a AUR package to install the firmware and in openSuse you have to run a command, which is written in dmesg error, while connected to the internet. I don’t know how debian handles it.
I have to research that first 😂 but it’s one that has a AMD grafic card that runs on readon driver which seems to not support suspend if booted from EFI if understood that linked threat correctly. Some macs have nvidia grafic card, which don’t work at all, if you boot Linux from EFI. So I guess it’s ideal to boot Linux on any older mac via legacy bios instead of modern EFI.
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