Rolive

@Rolive@discuss.tchncs.de

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Rolive,

That’s good. My switching frequency is a few times per hour.

I am a little bit concerned that the slow rise/fall time make the MOSFET go outside its operating parameters for a fraction of a second. The resistance gradually changes meaning the mosfet will dissipate more power but also less current will flow.

So if you switch many times per second the gate capacitance with the resistor acts as a low pass filter reducing the gate voltage.

Rolive,

He who controls the spice controls the universe.

Rolive,

So Mint is Ubuntu based right? If Ubuntu screws up even more doesn’t that affect Mint as well?

Adjusting SMPS output voltage (discuss.tchncs.de)

Does anyone recognise these power supplies? They’re cheap AliExpress led drivers and I want to change its output voltage to around 22V from 12V. I’ve read that the way to do this is to adjust the REF voltage on the IC that controls it. It’s a KA3845 but I don’t understand where that reference voltage is regulated. One...

Rolive,

Yo dawg I heard you like games so we put a game in your game so you can play while you play.

Rolive,

Wish I could. I use linux whenever possible but gaming, hdr and some drm features won’t work on Linux any time soon.

Rolive,

Some corporate BS screen lock application that replaces the built in Windows feature. It would take several minutes to log in because of that.

Fortunately you can kill the process with taskmanager and prevent the screen from locking entirely. Lol.

Rolive, (edited )

An MPPT solar charge controller using Arduino as well as a homemade Li-Ion battery. Also an 18650 battery tester. So 3 projects simultaneously because they’re closely related.

I’m using a CC CV boost converter to convert solar energy to the voltage for a 7s Li-Ion battery. The arduino reads voltage and current and will try to adjust the CC value to obtain an optimal wattage. I have removed the CC potentiometer and replaced that with an Arduino PWM pin with voltage divider that sets the corresponding current limit. This way a relation between CC pwm duty cycle and solar output can be set.

DIY Li-Ion battery goes hand in hand with the solar project. I’m making a home battery out of salvaged laptop batteries. That requires a battery tester as well which I’m also making myself. The battery tester works by charging a battery with a TP4056 module and discharging as soon as it’s fully charged over a resistor while monitoring voltage/current over time. This happens 16x in parallel using multiplexers so 16 batteries can be tested simultaneously.

I’m also taking safety very seriously so all batteries are equipped with both thermal fuses and current fuses. That involves 3D modelling battery holders, printing them, spot welding/soldering etc. As well as an additional monitoring system on top of a commercial BMS so that the battery status can be monitored remotely. I intend to have a smoke detector, thermostats and an emergency cutoff switch controlled by that second BMS.

Once everything works to a somewhat satisfying degree I intend to post the projects in more detail.

Every project tends to explode in scope in terms of what it all requires so I’m not making as much progress as I want but it has been very educational.

I need a new bench power supply

Hello, I did manage to kill my cheap-ish bench supply causing it to randomly output up to like 300% the set voltage when under load which did already kill one board. Probably I didn’t actively kill it but the chinesium did its job 🤷🏻‍♂️. It was a single output supply, when needed I hooked up additional buck- or...

Rolive,

You could be really cheap about it and get some dc dc converter module, volt ammeter and an old laptop charger.

Rolive,

Whatever you do, keep it away from anything flammable or near any living environment.

If electronics stores are not willing to help you could try the fire brigade. Call them on the non emergency number. They can advise you much better.

Rolive,

Those wet solder sponges cause a thermal shock every time you wipe the tip. I recommend using brass windings instead. They also won’t completely wipe the solder off the tip either.

You always want a small layer of solder on your tip at all times to prevent it from oxidising. Oxidation means bad heat transfer causing soldering to be much more difficult. Also store it with a small blob of solder on it.

You should avoid scraping or sanding the oxidation of the tip. There is a small layer of silver that won’t oxidise so quickly but below that is normal iron. Not sure if that applied to cheaper Chinese irons but it’s better not to learn bad habits. Once you remove the silver layer you’ll get oxidation much more quickly and you’ll have to keep scraping until the tip is gone.

You can remove oxidation with the brass windings much more easily than with a sponge. When you apply solder with flux the rest of the oxidation should come off fairly quickly.

Buying a cheap model to practice is a great idea, when you are used to that you can look into a better iron. I’ve been very happy with the TS100 but the Pinecil is the newer model apparently.

Is this a sign of a capacitor leak? (lemmy.world)

Wanna reuse some old HDDs in the new PC as misc storage and I saw this on a really old drive (the PC it was pulled out of was built in I think 2008/9). Could the discoloration on E9 be because a capacitor leaked? The discoloration seems (from this side at least) to be fully contained on the circle and off of the rest of the PCB

Rolive,

Not an expert here but the stain is limited to where the capacitor is located. I think it’s safe to assume the capacitor was faulty and to replace it.

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