Rolive

@Rolive@discuss.tchncs.de

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Rolive,

Some corporate BS screen lock application that replaces the built in Windows feature. It would take several minutes to log in because of that.

Fortunately you can kill the process with taskmanager and prevent the screen from locking entirely. Lol.

Microvawe transformer spotwelder. Is there a way to improve it?

Hi, I have built a microvawe transformer spotwelder, I have put a single turn of welder wire for in the secondary and I’m timing it with arduino. Worth mentioning it was/is a 230V transformer. Electrodes are sharpened copper rods. I believe the voltage is still high. The spotwelds it produces are slightly discolored and not as...

Rolive,

Where is the video? Electroboom craziness sounds entertaining.

Rolive,

I would rather have a buffalo take a diarrhea dump in my ear.

Rolive, (edited )

An MPPT solar charge controller using Arduino as well as a homemade Li-Ion battery. Also an 18650 battery tester. So 3 projects simultaneously because they’re closely related.

I’m using a CC CV boost converter to convert solar energy to the voltage for a 7s Li-Ion battery. The arduino reads voltage and current and will try to adjust the CC value to obtain an optimal wattage. I have removed the CC potentiometer and replaced that with an Arduino PWM pin with voltage divider that sets the corresponding current limit. This way a relation between CC pwm duty cycle and solar output can be set.

DIY Li-Ion battery goes hand in hand with the solar project. I’m making a home battery out of salvaged laptop batteries. That requires a battery tester as well which I’m also making myself. The battery tester works by charging a battery with a TP4056 module and discharging as soon as it’s fully charged over a resistor while monitoring voltage/current over time. This happens 16x in parallel using multiplexers so 16 batteries can be tested simultaneously.

I’m also taking safety very seriously so all batteries are equipped with both thermal fuses and current fuses. That involves 3D modelling battery holders, printing them, spot welding/soldering etc. As well as an additional monitoring system on top of a commercial BMS so that the battery status can be monitored remotely. I intend to have a smoke detector, thermostats and an emergency cutoff switch controlled by that second BMS.

Once everything works to a somewhat satisfying degree I intend to post the projects in more detail.

Every project tends to explode in scope in terms of what it all requires so I’m not making as much progress as I want but it has been very educational.

I need a new bench power supply

Hello, I did manage to kill my cheap-ish bench supply causing it to randomly output up to like 300% the set voltage when under load which did already kill one board. Probably I didn’t actively kill it but the chinesium did its job 🤷🏻‍♂️. It was a single output supply, when needed I hooked up additional buck- or...

Rolive,

You could be really cheap about it and get some dc dc converter module, volt ammeter and an old laptop charger.

Neat trick for desoldering many-pin components (youtu.be)

I just came across this and thought I’d share. I’ve struggled to get headers and IC’s off boards after soldering them on backwards/upside down. This video shows a cool trick with a piece of copper wire that makes them very easy and quick to get off without expensive tooling. I was thoroughly impressed. Hope someone else...

Rolive,

Well the copper should disperse the heat fairly quickly. It should be okay.

Rolive,

Whatever you do, keep it away from anything flammable or near any living environment.

If electronics stores are not willing to help you could try the fire brigade. Call them on the non emergency number. They can advise you much better.

Rolive,

Hmm so you could work around this issue by placing the PCB in a drying oven a couple of hours before. Something around 50deg C.

Rolive,

Those wet solder sponges cause a thermal shock every time you wipe the tip. I recommend using brass windings instead. They also won’t completely wipe the solder off the tip either.

You always want a small layer of solder on your tip at all times to prevent it from oxidising. Oxidation means bad heat transfer causing soldering to be much more difficult. Also store it with a small blob of solder on it.

You should avoid scraping or sanding the oxidation of the tip. There is a small layer of silver that won’t oxidise so quickly but below that is normal iron. Not sure if that applied to cheaper Chinese irons but it’s better not to learn bad habits. Once you remove the silver layer you’ll get oxidation much more quickly and you’ll have to keep scraping until the tip is gone.

You can remove oxidation with the brass windings much more easily than with a sponge. When you apply solder with flux the rest of the oxidation should come off fairly quickly.

Buying a cheap model to practice is a great idea, when you are used to that you can look into a better iron. I’ve been very happy with the TS100 but the Pinecil is the newer model apparently.

Rolive,

Looking for tips on tips I see.

With soldering you want to maximize heat transfer at all times so flat surfaces (chisel tip for example) are usually ideal. If you want to remove solder from a hole in a PCB you’re better off with a round tip as that has the most contact area then. It will make it easier to use a solder sucker in that case for example. Personally I have the chisel tip on 90% of the time and might be willing to switch to the large flat one.

Rolive,

Wattage does not mean how hot it gets, it means how fast it gets to the desired temperature. Also Chinese vendors tend to exaggerate greatly with specifications, especially with cheap products.

Rolive, (edited )

Seems your linked website as a very believable conclusion attached to it. I have a similar issue where the relay module would behave erratically. In my case it was when the relay module/595 chips received power before the Arduino was fully powered up. It’s unlikely that a load affects your relay module as they should never be connected to the main circuit.

I guess something like a pulldown resistor on the SER, CLK and RCLK pins would solve the issue since that would kill any noise. The noise is probably the kind of voltage that BARELY registers as HIGH but highly random.

That or making the relay module only turn on after the microcontroller has finished starting up using a mosfet or something.

ESP32 with multiple cameras

I want to connect five OV2640 cameras via FPC to an ESP32 on a custom PCB. Is this generally possible and does the ESP32 have enough power for this or do I need an ESP32 for each camera? The frames per second are not so important as the cameras will be used as QR code scanners. Which components allow to run so many cameras with...

Rolive,

I don’t know if the ESP32 is ideal for that. A raspberry pi with a powered USB hub is probably better for this.

Rolive, (edited )

I’ve been looking into KiCad lately (thanks to this thread) and this guy seems to sum it up pretty well: www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaCVh2SAZY4&list=PL3bNyZY…

Is this a sign of a capacitor leak? (lemmy.world)

Wanna reuse some old HDDs in the new PC as misc storage and I saw this on a really old drive (the PC it was pulled out of was built in I think 2008/9). Could the discoloration on E9 be because a capacitor leaked? The discoloration seems (from this side at least) to be fully contained on the circle and off of the rest of the PCB

Rolive,

Not an expert here but the stain is limited to where the capacitor is located. I think it’s safe to assume the capacitor was faulty and to replace it.

Rolive,

Well. That would be the overpriced commercial version. I'm not a fan of Tesla because of their anti repair practices and I'd rather build my own anyway. The learning experience alone makes it worth it.

Their products do work though.

Rolive,

Thanks. Didn't notice that until it was already posted here.

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