That’s a side project, and doesn’t explain all the services that use it without images.
Regardless, you always have to connect to 3 different domains - typically the website itself, google.com and gstatic.com. These 3 domains allow for very accurate triangulation across the internet, and each one will fingerprint your browser. They might not know your bank account number or social media account name, but they know that someone using your browser banks with this bank and has an account on that social media, along with thousands of other data points.
I’ve always thought that CAPTCHA also checksfor time, e.g. if the correct solution is entered too fast, it will determine that you are a bot. This would mean that a fast bot would not really “win”. Not sure if this is the case or why I’ve thought it is, but it came to my mind from this 😅
The captcha with the checkbox tracks a lots of items like mouse movement, browsing history etc. Full list is not public but they use all their spying tools on that one
When I added the contact form on my website, I wanted to add reCaptcha so it would protect me from spam emails and make it easier for people by not having to click on pictures of fire hydrants. Reading a little about the privacy concerns about reCaptcha, I dropped it all together. I am in the EU, have a small numbers of visitors, it’a B2B thing so it was not worth it.
I’ve seen those puzzle piece captchas (common on crypto exchanges) that always say I completed the puzzle faster than 99% of users (even if I didn’t do the puzzle particularly fast). I presume those 99% are all bots attempting to hack into crypto wallets.
You could try using the e-ink buddy from Adafruit. I bought one for driving a price tag e-ink as well but have not tested it yet unfortunately. On their site they say that e-ink connectors are pretty standardized.
We need a picture of the entire pcb. The ribbon cable (technically a flex pcb, not a ribbon cable) is totally custom and not something you can put a signal on. The little green pcb looks like the driver, so we would need pics of that and maybe figure out where you can input some kind of signal.
These kinds of displays can be really hard te re-use. Often their driver is just a simple blob (chip on board) which would be completely custom. This can be made cheaply to order with as few as 500 units. So mass produced readers often use completely custom stuff to get down to a really low price. Unfortunately this means it’s not possible te repurpose the screens later.
Spi is the norm for hobby displays because they are made to be driven easily. There is a driver chip that receives the spi signal and drives the display. With an actual product this often isn’t the case and the screen gets driven directly.
Hey, I am not 100% sure but from other screens i have seen it is probably to boost power. One of the open source ereaders has a little chip that is similure. It is probably a spi display. Do you have the model number of the panel?
I don’t have model number and there are zero indications to who manufactured it. I added a picture of the backside. That’s everything readable on the panel. Nothing else.
The connector on the PCB is called a ZIF (zero insertion force) connector. Normally they are specified by the number of pins, the pitch of the pins, and whether there is any locking feature or “ear” on the sides of the ribbon cable. It looks like a standard latching connector made by any number of companies.
The ribbon cable looks like it is custom designed for the display’s electrical pin out and the mechanical design of the enclosure.
If you can figure out the mfg of the display itself, you should be able to figure out the ribbon cable pinout.
I know a fair bit about connectors and circuit fab, but not an EE so hopefully this helps!
I added a picture of the panel, but as written in the other comment: no manufacturer to see - at least to me.
At least pin-count-wise, the driver I linked above should fit, and all e-ink displays for hobby use do seem to be driven by SPI, but whether it’s the “same kind” of SPI and pinout…
Pretty sure you'd only have to spin half that fast, you'd get two magnetic cycles per rotation. Though if you flipped one of the magnets (or better yet, removed one) you'd need the 1575+ million rotations but get a stronger radiation (I think, though not positive).
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